Photoshop :: Use Color Checker As Reference To Correct Overall Image Color And Contrast
Nov 8, 2012
I have a photo of a painting that was taken with Kodak color checker patches on one corner. It looks like I need to adjust the colors in Photoshop.
I want to use the color checker as a reference to correct the overall image color and contrast. However, I don't know how to use it as I have never worked with color checker patches before.
how to color correct the image on photoshop?
I am attaching a cropped sample image. The original image is in RGB. The colors on the Kodak patch as follows: Blue, Cyan, Gree, Yellow, Red, Magenta, White, 3/Color, Black.
I'm trying to create a swatch in Illustrator with our company's colors. I already succeedid in creating a palet with the RGB and CMYK colors, but I also want to do this with the PMS colors.However, I can't seem to find the correct color book in which to locate the correct PMS color.
I only have the number of the PMS color, I don't know which color book to choose?
How to use the colorchecker passport with gimp and/or UFRaw and/or digikam for color correct images and use the profiles build out of the dng file.I just found workflows on how to use it with Adobe Lightroom or Adobe Photoshop 5 or so.
I have something like 1,850 photos, taken in RAW and later converted to DNG, to create a stop motion. All the photos were taken with the same camera (Canon 5D Mk II) and most of them with a 24-70L. All were taken in the same lighting conditions (in an interior, with the house lighting from flourescent lights) and the same day, in a period of maybe 2 or 3 hours. Each "take" was with the exact same camera and exposure parameters.
When processing the photos in Lightroom (using the LR4 beta) I can see some minor but very noticeable differences between color an exposure in the photos of the same "take". The exposure can be more or less automatically corrected by the Matching total exposures (although I think this doesn't work when the exposures are really similar, but there are some subtle differences like in this case, say, something along ~1/5 stop or so), but I haven't found how to try to match the white balance. All of the photos have already been set to a specific WB (I took a ColorChecker Passport at the beginning of the session), but there are still some differences between some of the shots. Some of them look a tad more greener. I blame the flourescent bulbs, but I'm not sure of the real cause.
So, the question is: is there a way to match the color balance of a series of photos to a target one? I really don't want to go photo by photo setting the white balance manually. Is there a tool like the Match total exposures, but for color balance? I have already tried with the automatic white balance, but the problem is that the decided WB for the photos is not the one I need, and I need to have the same WB for all the session, and this could change from different takes. The difference between shots is usually around 4 or 5 "points" in the Tint scale, some are with Tint +11, some with +15.
Or any other tool that could process this after? At the end I'll use JPGs to create the stop motion, so if there is a tool that could process the exported jpgs it could work too.
Created photo then used file menue, export preset, xrite. It worked but I never got a change to select a name. It came up as "profile". What am I missing. Found the profiles but my camera Cannon Rebel 4ti is not listed. Is there an easy way to change or delete these profiles?
I am deciding to switch over to gimp from pixelmator because of the extra features. However, there is one thing that is making me concerned is some limitations in the filters.
How do I create a checkerboard pattern (using the filter) which has a green color for its primary color and transparency for its secondary color? In pixelmator this is easily done because there are extra color pickers in that filter supports transparency, so no problem. However, this isn't the case in gimp.
Whereas I'm able to get the desktop version of the Color Checker profile maker to work fine, the X-Rite Lightroom plugin consistently fails to complete a profiling operation--quitting with the message that it "is unable to locate the color checker crop marks" in my image. In one such "failed" image, the (in focus) color checker occupies about 75% of the frame! I'm using LR 3.6, Mac OS X 6.8. Latest versions of the X-Rite software. Is this a common problem (making the plugin pretty useless)?
I have created custom profiles using Color Checker Passport for sunny, cloudy, flash, tungsten etc but would really like to create one for most shoots. I thought it would be a good idea to name it say "Temp" and overwrite each time so that I dont end up knee deep in camera profiles. But I am guessing if I do this will the latest saved version of "Temp" change the camera profile of all other previously saved versions of "Temp" from other shoots?It would be good if the saved version of "Temp" resided within the folder of that particular shoot only.
I'm capturing television frames using a TV capture card, but the resulting images do not have the correct brightness/contrast and color values.
Instead of manually altering every image using trial and error, I'd like to take a "correct" source frame that I know is correctly balanced (such as a test pattern), and use it to correct my other captured images.
I've tried saving the source frame's levels and curves and then loading them into the captured frames, but this doesn't produce quite the effect I'm looking for.
Hi I placed some advertisments into a black-and-white (greyscale) newspaper. The ads were previously scanned images and I received them as high-resolution .JPG's. I don't have access to the original files. When they printed, some of the ads were not as vivid as I wanted. I opened them up in Photoshop and found out that the blacks are not 100% black. Some were 90%, some as low as 40%. They looked fine on my monitor and on the laser printer proofs, but on newsprint they were not dark enough. I want to increase the blacks to 100%. I'm a Photoshop newbie, so the only solution I can come up with is to open each of these ads and use the curves tool to manually pull all of the blacks up to 100% while leaving the white part of the spectrum alone. I'm not sure I'm using the curves tool correctly. Not to belabor the point, but here some screen shots of before and after. BEFORE: AFTER:If you look carefully, you can see the curves. Bassically I pulled up all of the curve to 100 percent black and just left the leftmost point where it is(which I assume is the white part of the spectrum). Is this the best approach for doing what I want to do? Thanks.
whenever [on any photo] i apply auto levels or auto contrast or auto color from the image>adjustments tab, the entire photo will completely white out as if i had added a new white layer over my active layer (which i am not doing). however, it only does this in 'auto' changes. so if i were to manually adjust my levels or my contrast or color, the 'white-out' effect wouldn't occur.
i really need this feature. i have already uninstalled/reinstalled photoshop cs2 and that didn't seem to fix the problem.
When I export an image from LR 4.1 for editing in PS CS6, I notice a distinct loss of contrast and possibly saturation. Overall, the image looks duller and flatter. My working space in both apps is ProPhoto RGB. I use a custom profile generated by a hardware calibrator.
The screenshot below is of the same image rendered in both programs.
And here are my PS color settings:
FWIW, the image generated by Lightroom is rendered identically by Preview.
I've been struggling the whole day to change the color of the black crack in the attached picture to red (to match my other samples) whilst fading the crack edging (paint overrun). The best I could get was to manually dodge tool the cracks to lessen the excess paint outside of the cracks but then the dodging lessens the contrast of the crack crevice too. How to (1) locally contrast the cracks from the paint around its edges and (2) change the color of the crack from black.
I've tried playing with overlays whilst adjusting the color modes for the cracks, but I've not met with much success and I'm not sure if its my lack of knowledge of these features or if its just the wrong approach altogether. PS. I'm using CS2 (its what the office has...)
Whenever I edited the attribute of a block, just when I tried to fill in a new value in the "Value" column after thosed named "Tag", "Prompt", it was always a pain for me to find out on which row the new value was maintained, because the color contrast between the rows was too poor. See attached picture for more details.
Eager to know if there is a way to change the backgroud color in order to have a better contrast?
I want to select a specific color from within the image, and change all similar colors within that image to a different color. In other words, after using the Color Picker Tool to select a color from the image, I want to take the selected color (and everything in the image that is equal to or similar in color), and change them all to a different color.
I tried using the Path's Tool to create an outline in the image, and changing colors that way, but it changes all the other colors in the selection I don't want to change. I just want to change all colors in the image/selection that are equal to or similar to the selected color. How do I do this?
I'm about 3 months and many hours of tutorials into Premiere ProCC, Audition CC, and Encore CS6. Apparently the nifty dynamic links from PPro and Audition CS6 no longer work with encore, as encore was not upgraded to CC. So,
I want to sample color from an original Photoshop image, and create an Encore menu color set, so that my menu buttons, etc. are colored to match the main photo image in the menu. Is there an eyedropper kind of tool in Encore that would let me sample the color from the image, and then apply that to color swatches in the Encore button layers?
I am doing a thermography project for a wedding in which the printer will only do two-color processing. the text will be black and a cherry blossom jpeg is illustrated in watercolor-y pinks. all will be raised printing. how do i transform the watercolor-y pinks to one pantone pink without losing the brush stroke quality of the image? do i select & replace color pixels varying the translucency of one pink pantone color? is there an easier way? i am using photoshop cs on a mac.
Had a text logo created on a white canvas/background. Made the white background transparent, then placed the logo on a green web page. Traces of white appear around the text edges. Is there a way to remove the traces of the original background color that appear around text when I place a transparent GIF on a different background color assuming I don't have the original psd/png file only the transparent GIF?
What I'd like to do is adjust the color and brightness/contrast of many layers of an animation. Now, for a still image with many layers I know you can generally add a partially transparent layer over the whole thing, however, since it's an animated .gif I have to do the same thing to each individual layer. I could probably go through and do it by hand and just get it over with. But, I'm curious if there's a feature for this, or is there a plugin that can repeat actions for multiple layers?
I am new to Photoshop. I have version cs5. I have several photos that were taken through a Blue tinted plexiglass window. Some or all of the photo has acquired the tint. Also parts may have a reflection minor of people standing around. How do I remove the tint?
I photograph a bright red car in raw mode on a digital slr (Canon 20D) set to Adobe rgb 1998 and view it in Breeze Browser and it looks just as I remember it. I open it into Pshop CS5 extended (which is set to Adobe rgb1998, Europe ISO Coated Fogra27, (as I am UK and this is what a calibration company set our works proofer to) gray gamma 2.2 dot gain 20% and its become a little desaturated.
Sampling it and comparing screens and colours with Breeze Browser its definitely less red, a bit more orange red instead. I need to up saturation to return the red, both in RAW converter and also after image opened if not done so beforehand in RAW converter. Colors just look muted.
What tests can I carry out to find out what is going on ?
Perhaps create a rgb 255 0 0 image in a way not influenced by photoshop and photo the monitor, then open this in photoshop and sample it. However that would be influenced by the exposure of the camera. Maybe I need to create a Kodak grey card type image and establish correct exposure for the monitor brightness first. so what would that be as rgb ?
I know though that Pshop is displaying duller. Once upon a time we had Adobe gamma and one would go through the calibration wizard to set up Photoshop having already set up the monitor.
What do we have to do after installing CS5 extended or CS4 to ensure Pshops display is correct ?
I have Adobe gamma in the control panel, Is this something we still have to do in CS5, I wonder if its there because I still have Pshop 7 installed which used that wizard.
as some of you who work in TV know, video uses color bars to set up your source material in order to insure that levels in video will be output properly.
please see the above PDF. i created the BG in photoshop, then imported it into indesign for a half-page magazine ad.
this PDF is a high-quality output of PDF. i printed it on my $99 ink jet printer just to see how it looks on paper and it doesn't look too bad.
but is there some way i can test the print output without having to get a printed proof from the print company, that will insure that the ad's colors and levels are set properly?
i guess what i mean is, is there some way that a color bar system similar to TV can be used to compare with the PDF?
I want to color a photo of a brown leather shoe by switching on a color layer under it. I need this because a website script works with 2 separate images/layers. The top layer must be a transparent png of the image (the brown shoe) and the layer under this is a solid color (or more colors). This way you can color a shoe by clicking a button on the webpage.
I tried it using a white shoe on a layer, setting the opacity to 80%, than I used 'Select Color Range' to select the leather of the shoe, than I deleted this selection. This way the shoe keeps the leather look but is kind of transparent. A colored layer under it 'paints' the shoe while you still see the leather texture on it.
I'm trying to color correct some strands of fabric that are underneath a semi transparent fabric. I've been trying to paint the strands and use opacity etc...to properly color correct them, but are there any good tricks to keep the illusion of the transparency of the overlaying fabric?
I created an image in PS and then went to Dreamweaver to code. I wanted a certain cell to be the same color as the image I created in PS so I set the cell to the same hex value as the one in PS.
When viewed in a browser though, the color is different.
Why?
What do I need to do to make them view the same on the web by using the hex value?
I'm attempting to tilt this image for use in a game im writing. I've been using Map Object and rotation (Y) but this then causes pixel color changes on the boundary with the background color. How would I tilt this picture without getting the problem?
Any resource(s) for correctly setting the color on my monitor so that it's synched with Lightroom? I have an 11x17 inch Dell monitor; don't see a model name.
I'm not sure if Adobe publishes anything or if I should check Dell's site.
What is the best way to color correct the very blue photos taken underwater scuba diving? Most pictures were take at about 50-70' depth with an Olympus point and shoot fe-360 with an underwater housing. The camera was set on the underwater scene 2 setting. I just want to get the vibrant colors back that were present in the great corals, sponges and fish in the BVI's.
