smoothing out a hand drawn image. I have the picture of a tribal tattoo and I'm trying to smooth the edges (they look rough at the minute) so it looks more photoshop-made? But I'm having trouble.
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I have an image which is simply a one color gradient, with transparency from nothing to something. I would like to be able to access the existing gradient on the image and change only the color. I have hunted high and low and cannot see how to do this.
(I am familiar with how to make a new gradient and how to change the colors in a saved gradient via the gradient dialogue. But for the life of me, I can't see how to access an existing gradient on an image and change only this one parameter.
Say I have an image that is sort of pixilated and rough, what is the best way to smooth it out so that it looks a bit better?
View 6 Replies View RelatedI am having little diffilculty with rotating a layer and maintaining straight sharp edges to the layer.
Lets say I draw a solid colour rectangle, when I rotate the rectangle the edges become jagged. Is there anyway to avoid this?
I have tried various plug-ins to blur/feather the edges, but I require a sharp finish.
I have attached a sample of one edge.
Attached Thumbnails
I am trying to use a raster image pulled of the web, in AI. As a result, (particularly when zoomed out) the edges of the image look rough & nasty.
Is there any way to fix this or at least compensate for it by smoothing the edges out?
I have just started using the Paintshop Pro X4. In fact, I am still using the trial version and I want to use it so I can see if I want to buy it in a couple of weeks. However, I am not really very knowledgeable about computers, computer language and all the technical stuff. So things have to be pretty obvious to me.
Just for practice, I have downloaded a photo of a cherry and a leaf. Not great art, but a nice clear photograph. Of course I want it to be larger than the thumbnail image, so I have blown it up to 6"x6" Now the edge of the cherry, the leaf and the stem are all jagged. I know that is because of the pixels - but I still want to know how to get around it and smooth the edges when I enlarge something.
I am trying to find a faster way to save my images. I shoot in raw, save raw images as jpegs after editing them in Camera Raw. I am using Photoshop CS6 on a Mac version 10.7.5. When I save, I either have to save as a copy of the exisiting image, or replace the image I'm working on. Other forums I've read said to make an action to save and create a function key to make this process faster, but my function keys aren't working, and playing the action I've created still makes a copy of the image.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have 2 x *.dds files. One is a default model texture (with no alpha channel) and the other is a lightmap, which has different visible graphics to that of the texture file. However, the alpha channel of the lightmap uses the texture file detail.
My question, as I need to recreate these from scratch, how do I import an existing image to another existing image and use it as a alpha channel. So far each time i have tried the original information is overwritten.
Here's a screengrab of what I'm trying to achieve. To recap, I'm trying to use image 1 as an alpha channel in image 2 (as shown)...
I have a few png images (from a PD image disc) on a site I made, and the set came with pretty much all the variants I need. However I find I need an up and down image, but only have a premade up.
What I'm after is a matching down. I do have a blank if thats going to make things any easier.
I need to add rectangle shapes to an existing image.
I tried using the rectangle tool but each time i click on the background option after the rectangle is drawn, it disappear.
The rectangle will only appear again when i select the rectangle shape from the layer panel.
Is there anyway where i can make the rectangle show on the image?
i tried reading up some of the thread posted and i saw some thread mentioning doing something to the path. How is the path used?
I'm not really familiar with using paths and layers, so i need a really layman's term of explaination.
For more info, i actually set the colour of the rectangle fill 100% opacity 100%.
anyway wat is the purpose of setting opacity?
cos i tried ranges between 0 - 100 and there doesn't seem to have much difference.
I have an image that is going to serve as an online ad. I would like to have it look like a glass button like so many online ads do these days. However, most tutorials out there give instructions for how to do it with only text over the button. How would I do it if it's got three different sections to it? A photo on the top half and two colors on the left and right on the bottom?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am unable to add a gradient to an image. I do the following:
-Select a gradient (I just selected a default gradient to start off with)
-Then I select a region of the image that I want to apply the gradient to (I use the rectangle select tool)
-Then I switch back to the gradient tool
-Then I hover the cursor over the selected region of the image. This is where I expect to be able to click the mouse down and drag to create the gradient. However, when the cursor hovers over the image the cursor turns into a black circle with a line through it (which obviously is telling me "no, you can't do this"). Obviously, when I click and drag, nothing happens.
Everything I could find here talked about one-time creation of a new 4.1 catalog rather than adding 3.6 catalog to my growing 4.1 catalog. I held off converting everything until I had some time and experiewnce with LR4.1.
Now I have a moment to breathe and can move all the 3.6 stuff to 4.1. I started using Jeffery Friedl's Flickr publish under 4.1 but not 3.6 so no publishing in 3.6. I have no self-made presets so just converting all images to Process 2012 is OK with me. (I know some images will look different.)
My primary graphics task is working with application screencaps... mainly masking out private customer information, and sometimes overlaying 'dummy' data in its place. With a drawing program, the process goes like this:Draw a box somewhere near the field I'm masking.Use the color-matching tool to ensure that the box matches the field.Resize and reposition the box to exactly cover the field.(Optional) Repeat this process with a text box to present the 'dummy' data on top. However, my workplace requires us to use Paint, which doesn't support drawing actions like this (moving and resizing objects). Is there some other way to accomplish this task with the tools Paint does have?
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have used paint.net for small photo touch-ups of my daughters. But now I'm starting a small business and actually starting to use more tools.
I had our logo done by a graphic designer and to save on money I am doing the layouts for ads, flyers, business cards etc. When I copy our logo into a new layer it is super big compared to my canvas size. I cant seem to figure out a way to scale it down in ratio. When I click on the corners it allows me to scale down, but not to ratio. When I select image-resize (Ctrl+R) and do a percentage it cuts off portions of the logo or select by absolute size it wants to change my canvas size.
When I export an image with existing keywords they showup in the file properties when I open the new image in Windows Explorer. When I re-import that new file back into Lightroom I find that none of the original keywords are visible. This had not been an issue in previous versions of Lightroom.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm using the script export-selection.scm to create a series of PNG files from an existing image. It works fine but I find the fact that it saves the file to a name that it constructs (based on the .xcf file loaded, and whether it is saving a one layer or visible layers, etc) really slows me down, as I have to bounce between gimp and explorer to rename each output file after every save.
I looked at the source to see if I could tweak it so that the filename it created was unique, but I must have missed a crucial episode somewhere, because I couldn't get past first base.
Here's the candidate line from the script:
(outputName (string-append imageNameNoExt "-sel"))
..so you get a filename of MyGimpImageName-sel.png. What I want to do is create filenames called MyGimpImageName-sel-001.png, MyGimpImageName-sel-002.png etc.
An alternative would be to add an edit box to the dialog to allow you to specify the filename.
On a related subject, is it possible to set up a key binding to execute a script? If this could be done, I could roll a version of the script that skipped the dialog altogether and just used the last settings. In combination with the unique filename mod, this would speed up the job considerably.
I'm trying to create an illustrator action that isn't functioning properly on playback. I'm using Illustrator CS5 on a Macbook. In setting up for print production of CD's and DVD's, on what's called an OMAP; I have to copy, paste and then place the image at a specific point on the artboard. Then I repeat 143 times. I'd like to create an action that pastes and moves each of the 144 disc images to the precise x and y coordinates given. I've tried creating this action through the steps outlined below, but the result of the playback is never consistent and the images end up off the artboard.
1. Copy disc image from an existing illustrator file.
2. In the action panel of my OMAP template document I create a new action, give it a name and click Record.
3. I hit command>V to paste.
4. In the transform panel I put in the x and y coordinates(Then repeat)
Update: I was able to create the action in Illustrator CS4 and playback works perfect. However, my client uses Illustrator CS 5 on a PC (as I use most of the time); and, the action will not play back properly in CS 5. I've updated both mine and their software to the latest version of CS 5 (illustrator 15.0.2 i believe) and this action still will not function right. I've tried re-creating the action in CS 5 with no success on playback. URL...
I have installed LR 4.2 two days ago, and have run into a serious problem. When in develop mode, when I click on an image in the film strip, LR opens the image and changes the color temperature dramatically. The blue/yellow slider moves to the far left. I think this is the only change, but didn't check.
The action is not in the history, so I cannot undo it. When I quit and restart, the change is still there. There is no way to recover the pre-existing setting. Can I convert my catalog back to 3.6?
I'd like to be to select a layer groups and copy them over to another pre-existing image.
I've been struggling with this for an hour or so, and I haven't found a way to do this.
Is is possible to do this in GIMP?
The closet I've found is a kind of paste where you do this: drag the tab of the origin image over to the tab of the target image. The result is a new layer in the target image called "dropped buffer". However, the entire origin image is imported flattened.
I've been trying other drag and drop operations, but without success. Usually when I drop the selection to the target image, the icon under the mouse dissapears, and nothing actually happens.
I thought this might be a window manager problem. But I get the same results across kde, gnome and xfce.
I didn't realized that as I'm importing images, the 'background' was defaulting to white. I'm working a couple images right now, in which the transparent setting is really needed. I found where to change the default, but not how to change it for existing images in PS already.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm using Lightroom 4.3 to add a copyright watermarking image (png) to existing tiff files for website use. I have several different png files made using Photoshop Elements, with the copyright text set at different transparencies, eg 20/30/40 percent opacity, so that whichever one I use in Lightroom I can always leave the opacity setting in the watermarking dialog at 100% and the images are scaled proportionally to 35%.
The problem is that every time I export the files after setting the watermark position etc, I notice that there is a noticeable loss of both contrast and colour in the newly made tiff files.
Lightroom 4.3, Windows 7, 64-bit.
I'm trying to create an all new existing surface over existing ground. I have a TIN surface of the EG, and I have drawn overlay splines that describe the new surface, but how to go about creating that design surface.
It is a compound surface, open on one end and closed all around on the other, somewhat like a half of a football stadium, but with an irregular upper edge because I am needing to figure out cuts and fills to manipulate the EG into this new surface without costly major terraforming. There is about 40-50' vertical elevation between the "field" and the upper rim with a generally constant 7-10 deg. slope all around. I'm just at a loss to figure out how to approach this project, and am quite new to Civil 3D.
Civil3D 2013
MacBookPro 17 - 2.4GHz Intel QuadCore i7 (Late 2011 build)
Microsoft Windows 7 64bit
350GB Bootcamp volume
smooth the edges of a picture of a musical note PSD file (when zooming in on the edges it is possible to see it much better).I tried a few things with no luck .Here is the link for the PSD file.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have just downloaded the cs4 demo for photoshop after reading about how it can paint on 3d objects. I imported an obj file I created in modo. In modo I hit tab to turn on smoothing. In photoshop I can't seem to find a way to do smoothing. I know that photoshop isn't a 3d program but I was wondering if it offers any kind of smoothing algorithm? I'd hate to have to save out my mesh at a high poly count to bring into PS to paint. Is this the only way or am I missing something?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI need help with the brush tool in Photoshop CS3. All the brushes appear to be pixelated, and I'm unable to draw any smooth lines at all. Whatever I draw comes out edgy and rough.
On the other hand, the eraser tool still produces smooth lines. I tried fiddling with brush preferences, but nothing I do helps: I just can't draw smooth lines with the brush tool, although the smoothing option is turned on.
But,I couldn't figure out how to "paint back in detail" like it described, into the eyes and lips. It said something like "paint with a black brush over the blur mask to eliminate the blur in specific areas." I couldn't find a black brush; which brush is it talking about?
Also, I'd like to know how to apply this technique to just an area I've selected with the lasso tool, like her face.
I need help with smoothing a logo. The whole outside of the logo looks rough and jagged, can anyone please tell me what to do to make it smoothed out?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI have am image of a map that I have been asked to detail an post to a web page. The map had been drawn out fairly well, but the lines that make up the drawing are jagged. I would like to be able to smooth out the lines so it makes the map more presentable.
View 6 Replies View Relatedi`ve created a shape using curves, how can i antialias it and get a smooth curve (and a smooth outline for my mask)?
View 3 Replies View Relatedto make my signature that I have. However it looks terrible on a light background because the part of the car that "pops" out is very pixelated. The rounded corners are like this, too. I've tried using the blur tool to smooth it out but that doesn't seem to work here for whatever reason.
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