It's enabled me to add an Edge Animate file to my responsive Wordpress site using the Edge Suite Plugin.
Only problem for me is that although the 3.7MB file I’ve created scales perfectly on all devices it struggles to play on smartphones. (I assume it's too big and too power hungry to play smoothly on smartphones - even since I've added a pre-loader.)
So, in an ideal world, what I need is a separate low res Edge Animate file that only plays on smartphones.
Failing that, I’d be happy with a 'Down-level Stage' image which could replace the Edge Animate animation.
For a moment I thought I’d found a solution when I came across this Adobe TV movie: [URL]
Unfortunately this clever solution only works when the new Responsive Scaling feature is NOT selected. As soon as it is selected, the animation no longer changes from one layout size to another when the browser window is reduced.
I don’t mind whether the fix is in Edge Animate, Wordpress or the Edge Suite Plugin - I just want a solution!
We are designing some web graphics for a friend. By "we" I mean me and a guy who lives on the opposite coast.
He did the initial page layout/design as a PhotoShop tif, at 300 dpi, in layers and about 5 inches wide. The idea, on his end, was that it would be a small file size and, therefore, faster to download on my end. With me so far?
Anyway, I'm suppose to convert it to 800 ppi wide, 72 dpi, jpg. Sounds easy enough. Or not Do all the scaling and now the graphics don't look right. None of the layer effects are right!
How do I scale his graphic, for my purposes and, once it's the size I need it, have everything look the way he created it?
Example: Text at that 5 inch wide, 300 dpi size with a one point stroke on it looked find when the graphic was 5 inch wide and 300 dpi, but at 800 ppi wide and 72 dpi, it's all wrong
Is there a preference or something I should be clicking somewhere and I'm just missing it?
In CS3 I use a Dust & Scratches filter on a layer in a high resolution (3200+ppi) 16bpc image, then traditionally change the layer blend mode to Difference, make a duplicate of a channel which has the clearest information of where the filtered changes were made, and use levels to increase the contrast on a copy of that channel. Occasionally I get this result though - the Levels adjustment preview shows spots clearly, but clicking OK results in something very different from the preview. This only seems to happen occasionally.and result looks like this:
As the purpose of the channel is to make a mask, the result isn't as good as I'd like. I assumed that the problem might have been the grey starting colour of the channel, so I pushed the 0 up to 9 in an attempt to get a uniform K value of 100% on the darkest areas, and then ran a second Levels adjustment to make the white spots brighter. The second levels adjustment resulted in pretty much the same result as above, again, not what was shown in the preview. I also assumed that it may be down to numbers and that levels is occasionally too limited to deal with all the shades of grey on a 16 bit channel. Probably wrongly as this normally works exactly as required.
This only happens occasionally, and isn't that big a deal - I can quite happily go and use a Curve instead. I'm just wondering why the preview in the adjustment window is different from the actual result. The fact that it only happens on some of my images is what concerns me - purging all beforehand does not make any difference.how to get accurate results in the preview? Is the preview using a different method to show the results? Unfortunately I won't have a copy of CS6 to try this on until a couple of weeks from now, so not sure the best way for someone to try and replicate it on newer versions.
Is there a way to see the end result of a pattern as you are creating it?
That is a way so you can see the pattern tiled all over the document. So say you are working on a 100x100 area to be the pattern in layer 1, but you want to see this replicated over an entire document. Maybe you have an overall image/document that is 800x600 say, and you work on the 100x100 area in a layer. Anyway some way of doing is so that when you make a small change in the 100x100 area of the layer you're using for the patter creation, you immdiately see the replicated result of the 800x600 area.
I'm using CS5 and beginning to use HDR. When I merge to HDR pro and make adjustments to images the preview window is extremely different from the final image. I'm merging original camera raw images from a Nikon D200. Workflow in ACR is set to 16bit. Output from HDR pro is also 16bit. I adjust using the preview window, but after final processing the resulting image is grossly different, much more saturated and more vibrant among other differences.
I've recently tried using the Photoshop HDR feature. I have selected three different exposures in Lightroom and chose to merge them as an HDR image. All went well until the preview. I've found some settings that work really well. I've decided to go for the 16-bit path, not using Lightroom's 32-bit image capability, and let Photoshop do the tone mapping for now.
Here's what my preview image and the entire tool window looks like: [URL]
And this is the result one step later. It's totally over-saturated and has other merge errors. It basically doesn't even look similar to the preview. What's the preview good for if it doesn't show what I'll get? How should I decide what setting works good if I can't see it? [URL]
This is Photoshop CS6 x64 on Windows 7 SP1. The source images are 16-bit TIFFs as they were exported by Lightroom.
I was scanning some old family photos and came across one that isn't an original photo but looks like it was printed on one of those little remembrance cards that are passed out at funerals and it is made up of little dots. The scanned image ends up with a kind of plaid pattern on it because of the dots:
I took a picture with my cell phone and it looks better.I have never tackled anything like this before and was wondering if there is a standard way of improving this kind of picture to look more like a photo.
I cut with the pen tool. The path was not complicated and had many straight edges to follow, so I didn't have to click many points. After I completed and closed the path, I sel the icon, load path as selection and then the path became this bizarre zig zag, almost electric marching ants effect. Then I deselected and there were like hundreds of anchor points at every centimeter or so. The edges of the selected area however were normal and smooth.
Save For Web offers 5 resampling algorithms (the same 5 as in Image Size, ignoring "Bicubic Automatic", of course) for when the output is being resized.
All choices except "Nearest Neighbor" output an identical image (which is different to all results of Image Size). Although the "Bilinear" output contains the same pixels as the output of the 3 bicubics, its file size is slightly different than their shared file size.
I have a big problem in my adobe software (Photoshop and Fireworks by-example). When, for example, I backup my project psd, short layers that I did well at the opening of what I save almost all my layers are disorders .
The photos I have for my business in photoshop are really clear. But when I upload them to Facebook, they are blurry. How can I make my photos clear on Facebook? I heard someone say it is the size or pixels or something. How can I fix it?
I have a photo but it's pretty blurry. My SLR was set on Manual mode, and I went to take a photo, but the people moved, and it came out very blurry.
Is there any way that I can make it less blurry so that I can print it out? I tried the unsharp mask, but after a couple of times it just looks strange. Maybe I wasn't doing it right, or there's another way?
I designed my wedding invitations using photoshop CS3. They came out great. However, when I want to print them the lettering comes out blurry. And if I save as a PDF the lettering comes out really crisp but, some of the letters lose their color ....
I am a magician and I would like to design my own, custom playing cards (special gaffs). The first thing I needed to do was to get the sizr of the card right. With that, I had no problem.
Next, I needed to insert the number of the playing ard (in this case I was using 8 ). I had downloaded a special playing card font, used for bicycle cards to acheive this.
The problem came up when I typed in the font. It is just too fuzzy. If you take a look at a normal playing card, the image is thin,and sharp. the image I got, was fat, and too blurry. I have tried those buttons at the top, I think it is the anti aliasing method or something.
One thing I don't like when you do a search and some results are included in stacks of version sets, it that you are shown the best matches with the non matches indicated by a special icon. Then you can't have the option to 'select only best matches'.
An example : Suppose you usually shoot raw and keep only the best edited jpeg in a version set together with the original raw. You want to delete the original raws when there is an edited jpeg in the version set. You can perfectly use the search by details for files in a version set and filename with the raw suffix.
How can you select only the 'best matches' in the result of the search ? Unless there is a way to do that easily, I would like to introduce a feature request to add 'show only best matches in stacks/version sets' in the option menu of the result of the search.
You could : - select all the results and expand all stacks and version sets - assign a temporary keyword like 'IsInVersionSet' to all - do a new search by detail for 'IsInVersionSet' and filename ends with raw suffix - Select all and delete - remove the temporary keyword.
That would work for version sets with only one original and one edited jpeg, not for multiple files in a stack or version sets, the info about stacks or sets would be lost.The only method I have found to do the selection and deletion with keeping stacks and version sets is:
- create a catalog copy (copy of the whole catalog folder) - in the new catalog, use the above procedure to delete the raws - in the old catalog, find missing files and delete them from catalog.
I took a new Canon DSLR camera on a family trip to Africa and managed to take some very blurry photographs in the Kruger National Park. I understand that there is an "Unblur" feature available in one of the Adobe products but have been unable to find out if it is in Photoshop or Lightshop and which version.
Opened a clear image in QuickLook. Opened in PS CS5 to edit and it is blurry. PS is blurry/pixelated too - the tools, the font, etc. What can I do to fix this? I have had PS CS 5 for awhile now and have never had this problem before. Already tried re-opening, shutting down.
i'm new to photoshop so i'm not familiar with the commands etc... i have figured out how to make text blurry by doing numerous web searches. however, i have not figured out how to make text un blurry...
i was working with a jpg image with some blurry text and i'm not sure how to correctly highlight that section of the image and just change the text to make it legible.
used to use photostudio 5 but PS CS3 is supposed to be alot better so i got this and everytime i save it, (in mypictures folder) the preview and everything looks fine, but once i close the folder out and go back, it looks blurry and when i upload it to the web, its really blurry...