I can't remember reading any tutorials on dealing with noise in Photoshop. Scott Kelby dedicates a whole paragraph in his CS3 book for digital photographers. I need to make a decision on what noise reduction plugin to buy, so if you can reply to thread I can get a consensus of what is being used most.
If the circumstances force me to work on images with noise which have to be enlarged, and if I use noise reduction based on noise-pattern-recognition, is it better to carry out the noise reduction before or after the enlargement (and in case the answer is after, which resampling method would resample the image (and thus the noise) best for subsequent noise reduction?)
Working on a night shot of a building and processed through ACR7.2 and forgot to reduce the noise - and opened in Photoshop. Went to Filter/Reduce Noise and immediately get wierd banding in the window blinds. This banding is there regardless of the noise reduction settings and could not get it to go away - See attached screen shot of before and after applying the filter. So I went back and opened the file again in ACR7.2 and applied the Noise Reduction there and bingo, noise level dropped and looked good with no banding. Looks like the Noise Reduction capabilities in ACR7.2 are way better than the Noise Reduction filter - but surely the banding should not be there; especially if images do not get processed through Camera RAW.
Running latest version of Photoshop CS6 (latest patches applied), Windows 7 x64 16GB RAM, Intel 4000 with latest drivers installed. Camera file was ACR2 from Canon 5DMKII imported as a DNG file - then opened in ACR 7.2
Before Image Opened in Photoshop before applying the Noise Reduction Filter. After Image in Photoshop after applying the Noise Reduction Filter. Seems like a bug to me .By the way, the screen captures are from the image viewed at 100%.
I use paint.net all day long in my career - I have the task of editing age old technical drawings that have been scanned. Some go back 50+ years.
I'm looking for a plug-in on steroids similar to the "Reduce Noise" that is already contained within Paint.net. Some of our drawings are QUITE speckled and the existing command doesn't "despeckle" enough.
I've looked on the forum and came across "GREYCstoration Wrapper" , which was supposed to have been replaced by the "Reduce Noise" plug-in. Both of those return an error page when I try to view the post.
I've just exported some pictures for the web from Lightroom 5 which had to be downsized considerably. I now find that the sharpening and noise reduction palette has disappeared entirely from the right hand tools panel. What's going on? I've tried quitting and re-opening Lightroom and also shutting down and restarting my computer. (Macbook Pro retina and Mountain Lion)
I do a lot of timelpase photography and use Adobe software in my post workflow. I would like to master the process of using black images to reduce the digital noise of astral timelapses taken at 3200iso. I work in a RAW workflow then output to DPX image sequesnce.
I started on a timelapse forum with a similar query. I am just wondering if there is a way to do this with Ae in the RAW workflow or something similar. Instead of using other software. Maybe a Ps batch process? URL...
I have read and understood the Photomerge tool (and tried the process with the sample images that are in CS2). All this seems to be fine except for a couple of things...
1. To achieve 180 degrees I am going to need more than 3 images right? (overlapping each image by 15%-40%).
a. Can Photomerge in CS2 work with more than 3 images, or is 3 the maximum??
If 3 is the maximum, then it wouldn't be difficult to just increase the canvas width and add on? Or not? Or do 2 sets of 3 then hand stitch those together? What is the best process for achieving 180??
Also, I like to shoot just before sunset,usually. If I did a 180, say with the sun setting in the right hand side of the image, then panned to the left snapping as I go, I am obviously going to get different gradients of blue in the sky, (lighter sky to the right, a darker sky to the left)
Should I shoot in Manual or Aperture?
How will I get the tones in the sky to be seemless?. As long as I overlap by 15% - 40% all should be good?
What is the best process for achieving equal exposure in all shots?
I am taking photos of parts for a client. I've got a pretty good method down with correcting the originals to achieve the results I need. First here is the original. I'm using different color temp light sources, the walls of the photo box are slightly gray, and the table the parts are sitting on are white. So i'm trying to achieve the most accurate camera settings to get the original below:
After doing levels and exposure correction in PSD, I get what I want. I played around with the channel mixer and color balance to see if I can properly correct the object so it looks like gray steel, and not having that slight yellow/green tint to it.
The only way I could figure it out is to just turn off the hue saturation and it gives it a somewhat decent result as seen below: But suppose my object is made of gold, or has a piece of plastic on it that's red; if so, then turning off the saturation will not work.how I can use other controls in PSD to achieve a more accurate result?
Let's say you got a picture and you start editing it:
DesaturateAdd some noiseAdd some random dustAdd some vintage colorsSo you end up with a picture (let's say 1000x800px, 72dpi) that looks fine on your screen with 100% zoom. But you don't want to use this picture for a blog or something, you just want to print it. If you print it with 300dpi then most of the effects (noise, dust...) won't show on paper because the picture is printed around 25% of what you see on the screen.
Question: Is there a technique so you can control whatever effects you add to your picture when the picture is going to be printed? I could resize the 72dpi picture after all effects applied around 400% and then print it but is resizing the best solution?
how I might go about applying an old style 3d stereoscopic effect onto an image? The effect doesn't have to actually function, is just required to give the effect of the kind of red and green cinema technique.
I am a 3d visualiser, who specialises in Architectural Visluals.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a plugin, or a way of realistically creating, the technique of a standard SLR filter, to a CGI image.
I have seen a couple of big companies who produce images that seem to have a distinct style, and it seems to be the colour levels either are too saturated or over colourfull, yet they are very good and a have a nice feel to the images.
I think they must use a lens filter type plugin, but i cant seem to find one on the net..
sometimes I will get a request for pool water to be placed in a pool and i need a way to do this more efficiently than I have been doing. Can some one help me with this. I have struggled with this lately on some pictures. I have added an example. I need to add pool water to this picture thats fairly realistic if possible.
With the incredible amount of talent that exists on this site, with the "carded" pros and the guys who have been around the block and have hit every curb, it seems to me that a new forum catagory could be opened. "Tips from the Pros" or some such.
I know the Advanced area exists, and is rarely visited, and is good for those already 'advanced', but maybe something up front in the forum would help the average guy or gal. I've been doing digArt for about ten years or so, and there is not a day goes by, where I don't pick up something from someone else, new to the medium or not.
What is a good method to employ when using PS to draw facial features of an animal in this case. To be more clear, I know how to go about drawing the subject but would like some advice from those with experience on how to best draw out a figure in PS, such as techniques for getting curved lines that are not jagged, etc. Have found that the brush tool works well compared with the pencil tool, but I don't have much time in drawing out things in PS and would likle to hear what your techniques are basically for getting a nice looking drawing.
I wonder to know if there are new complex techniques to convert an image in black and white . would you like to share some experiences and knowledge about it. i don't mean the beginning like start with a gradient or a channel mixer but steps after.
I've done a bit of photo retouching on faces before: removing skin blemishes, changing eye colour, etc. I've only ever made subtle changes though; I saw a before and after of a photo retouch job on a model that went into a magazine (can't find the link now) and the difference was staggering! Does any one know of a tutorial or reference guide that takes you through the techniques? I know it's a huge topic but I know my way round Photoshop and I'm keen to know the techniques rather than a step-by-step guide.
What are some good tips/tricks for selecting multiple surfaces. I have a model that is composed of something like 1500 individual surfaces. I'd like to know if there is a way I can select only the "Top" surfaces, or edge surfaces (or alternatively if there is a way to select all surfaces that are visible from the Top view or side views). Something like selecting loops, and chaining when dealing with sketches would be useful.
What I'm trying to do is extract the upper most surfaces out of an imported collection of surfaces (its a cube-like shape, not organic or curves), and then use them to create a thickened solid. I don't want to spend the time making the 300 clicks necessary to get all the surfaces by holding <ctrl> (not to mention a wrong click without <ctrl> could send you back to square one).