I have read and understood the Photomerge tool (and tried the process with the sample images that are in CS2). All this seems to be fine except for a couple of things...
1. To achieve 180 degrees I am going to need more than 3 images right? (overlapping each image by 15%-40%).
a. Can Photomerge in CS2 work with more than 3 images, or is 3 the maximum??
If 3 is the maximum, then it wouldn't be difficult to just increase the canvas width and add on? Or not? Or do 2 sets of 3 then hand stitch those together? What is the best process for achieving 180??
Also, I like to shoot just before sunset,usually. If I did a 180, say with the sun setting in the right hand side of the image, then panned to the left snapping as I go, I am obviously going to get different gradients of blue in the sky, (lighter sky to the right, a darker sky to the left)
Should I shoot in Manual or Aperture?
How will I get the tones in the sky to be seemless?. As long as I overlap by 15% - 40% all should be good?
What is the best process for achieving equal exposure in all shots?
What are some ways that people like to create cow leather, like the type you might find on cowboy boots? I've been searching for a good way to make a leather-looking tent.
I am taking photos of parts for a client. I've got a pretty good method down with correcting the originals to achieve the results I need. First here is the original. I'm using different color temp light sources, the walls of the photo box are slightly gray, and the table the parts are sitting on are white. So i'm trying to achieve the most accurate camera settings to get the original below:
After doing levels and exposure correction in PSD, I get what I want. I played around with the channel mixer and color balance to see if I can properly correct the object so it looks like gray steel, and not having that slight yellow/green tint to it.
The only way I could figure it out is to just turn off the hue saturation and it gives it a somewhat decent result as seen below: But suppose my object is made of gold, or has a piece of plastic on it that's red; if so, then turning off the saturation will not work.how I can use other controls in PSD to achieve a more accurate result?
Let's say you got a picture and you start editing it:
DesaturateAdd some noiseAdd some random dustAdd some vintage colorsSo you end up with a picture (let's say 1000x800px, 72dpi) that looks fine on your screen with 100% zoom. But you don't want to use this picture for a blog or something, you just want to print it. If you print it with 300dpi then most of the effects (noise, dust...) won't show on paper because the picture is printed around 25% of what you see on the screen.
Question: Is there a technique so you can control whatever effects you add to your picture when the picture is going to be printed? I could resize the 72dpi picture after all effects applied around 400% and then print it but is resizing the best solution?
how I might go about applying an old style 3d stereoscopic effect onto an image? The effect doesn't have to actually function, is just required to give the effect of the kind of red and green cinema technique.
I am a 3d visualiser, who specialises in Architectural Visluals.
I was wondering if anyone knows of a plugin, or a way of realistically creating, the technique of a standard SLR filter, to a CGI image.
I have seen a couple of big companies who produce images that seem to have a distinct style, and it seems to be the colour levels either are too saturated or over colourfull, yet they are very good and a have a nice feel to the images.
I think they must use a lens filter type plugin, but i cant seem to find one on the net..
sometimes I will get a request for pool water to be placed in a pool and i need a way to do this more efficiently than I have been doing. Can some one help me with this. I have struggled with this lately on some pictures. I have added an example. I need to add pool water to this picture thats fairly realistic if possible.
With the incredible amount of talent that exists on this site, with the "carded" pros and the guys who have been around the block and have hit every curb, it seems to me that a new forum catagory could be opened. "Tips from the Pros" or some such.
I know the Advanced area exists, and is rarely visited, and is good for those already 'advanced', but maybe something up front in the forum would help the average guy or gal. I've been doing digArt for about ten years or so, and there is not a day goes by, where I don't pick up something from someone else, new to the medium or not.
What is a good method to employ when using PS to draw facial features of an animal in this case. To be more clear, I know how to go about drawing the subject but would like some advice from those with experience on how to best draw out a figure in PS, such as techniques for getting curved lines that are not jagged, etc. Have found that the brush tool works well compared with the pencil tool, but I don't have much time in drawing out things in PS and would likle to hear what your techniques are basically for getting a nice looking drawing.
I wonder to know if there are new complex techniques to convert an image in black and white . would you like to share some experiences and knowledge about it. i don't mean the beginning like start with a gradient or a channel mixer but steps after.
I've done a bit of photo retouching on faces before: removing skin blemishes, changing eye colour, etc. I've only ever made subtle changes though; I saw a before and after of a photo retouch job on a model that went into a magazine (can't find the link now) and the difference was staggering! Does any one know of a tutorial or reference guide that takes you through the techniques? I know it's a huge topic but I know my way round Photoshop and I'm keen to know the techniques rather than a step-by-step guide.
What are some good tips/tricks for selecting multiple surfaces. I have a model that is composed of something like 1500 individual surfaces. I'd like to know if there is a way I can select only the "Top" surfaces, or edge surfaces (or alternatively if there is a way to select all surfaces that are visible from the Top view or side views). Something like selecting loops, and chaining when dealing with sketches would be useful.
What I'm trying to do is extract the upper most surfaces out of an imported collection of surfaces (its a cube-like shape, not organic or curves), and then use them to create a thickened solid. I don't want to spend the time making the 300 clicks necessary to get all the surfaces by holding <ctrl> (not to mention a wrong click without <ctrl> could send you back to square one).
I started my head model with a sphere ad I moved vertesis to shaped it, created lips and weld it onto the face, created two spheres that makes the eyes. I added a skin texture, the weldings of vertesis looks planar ang blocky thatn round and I cant seem to make it appear like a pro one. Its even hard to animate. I just wish I can overcome this, im stuck.
I'm starting to develop some customization for Inventor, and I need to decide whether to use VBA, .net, addin, plugin, or what else.According to this post .net is easier to use than VBA: URL....
I did a quick test and I found out that with VBA is much easier to use than .net: you can edit the source code while debugging, you don't need to compile and install anything, everything seems to work much smoother.Do I risk to find out that VBA has problems later in the development?
Where can I find documentation with comparison between the different customization techniques?
I am relatively new to Photoshop CS2 but I've used other apps before. My question is - if I have a photo with a figure dressed in black on a light background, what is the besttechnique to use if I want to cut the figure out and put her in a backgroun of another colour, maybe a darker colour?
There are 2 issues here:
(1) How to create a near-perfect mask around the figure? I tried using the magic wand, it's very very close but there are one or two places that I am not happy about, such as around the face where the colour value of the face is close to the colour value of the wall.
(2) Since she is on a light baclground to begin with, wearing a black jacket, I get a halo when I put her on a darker background. How can I mask out something like this, and be able to put the figure onto any colour background without the halo effect?
I took a series of photos (9 shot vertically) of the lobby of AKL. I made adjustments in Bridge (3.0.0.464) then choose Photomerge through tools in Bridge to process the pano in CS4 (11.0). The images were processed for the natural light. Follow the link to see what CS4 came up with. The files were .dng processed with CS3. I have made many other photomerges using this combo, but this is first to achieve this type of result. In CS4, I used the vignette and distortion options.
I'm using Photoshop on Vista 32. When I try to do a photomerge either from PS or Bridge, it does its stuff, then closes everything immediately. Reboots / changed options make no difference.
When i run a Photomerge (using jpegs) i have even tried using the sample jpegs that come with the software of the SF skyline.
I select my images, and it runs the usual sequence of starting the layers and merging then when it ends its just dissappears looking like the software has just opend with nothing happening.
Ive tried every combination to make them work and nothing. i never get to see any results.
I am using CS4, and ive also tried in CS3 again which is still installed on my partition. and its not working in that either. it used to work with no problems bit not now.
Just created a panorama out of 4 jpegs (together about 33MB) and saved it as jpeg. Now I want to create another panorama out of 10 jpegs (together about 73MB), it worked fine, but I can't save it in jpg format. CS3 only offers .psb, raw or tif.
I tried 4 times consequently to stitch 4 images in Photomerge activated from Bridge - with same settings (auto and defaults i.e. blending images on, vignette removal off, distortion correction off). I was surprised of the result because each time I tried PS generated different panorama. Just to make sure I thoroughly checked if the stitch settings were really the same - they were... Am I missing something essential?
When I click file automate - photo merge, I get an error message popup saying "Photoshop CS5.1 has stopped working." with options to check on internet for solution or close program. No error codes!
I reloaded my Photoshop to my C: drive about a week ago, but everything else seem to be working as it is supposed to. I have also installed a wacom pro, but I can't see where this would affect it.
When I have two or more photos open and I want to move them around, everytime I drag one over the other it becomes transparent. This transparency seems to happen once I drag the photo over the ruler but I could be wrong. Once I release the mouse button the two merge into one photo. I believe this has something to do with the photo merge feature. Can I turn this off?
I've seen recent posts about Photo merge crashing, I tried all the workarounds and remedies to no success. I run as Admin and still crashes, and only Photo merge is causing to crash. All other presets and automates are working just fine. I've deleted all Temp files and App Data, still nothing.
My stats are:
Windows 7 Professional Intel i7 vPro (2860Qm @ 2.5GHz) 16GB Ram Nvidia Quadro 2000M (lastest drivers, 266.96) Scratch disk is 200GB and I'm using about 9GB of Ram
So I don't think it's my computer that's the problem, but either the java script file for the automate or possible update?
Photoshop CS5 crashes when I try to use photo merge. Is there anything I can do so this wont happen?? Now I can't make panorama pictures. It's on my laptop it doesn't work. Samsung laptop with Windows 7. It works on my stationary computer with Windows Vista. I have the same version of PS CS5 on both computers.
The Photomerge in Photoshop CS4E is a fantastic tool when it gets it right, but what can you do when it doesn't? I've got a bunch of 9 images (in a "Noughts and Crosses" or "Tic Tac Toe" layout), all with 50% overlap, but a lot of fairly blank areas - this can't be avoided, they are nautical charts. When I do Auto Photomerge on these, a couple of the images get put in the wrong place. Is there a way to position the images in their approximate place, then get Photoshop to finish the job automatically?
cs3 had this option when creating a photomerge that made it so much easier to combine several photos when cs3 got lost in trying to merge.
I looked and looked in cs4 for the interactive command, so much simpler than grabbing the eraser and opacity, but I could not find the interactive addition for photomerge. Has it been moved or what ? IIRC in cs3 it was interactive from bridge..
When using the Photomerge tool in CS3 to do merges of 10+ images (10MP RAW), the process almost always stops at the blending step. Images are laid out properly, but the edges are not blended. Is there a particular reason for this? System has 3GB RAM, running XP (SP3).
Note that for smaller merges, the process completes fine.
I'd also be curious to know if the Photomerge facility has been improved in CS4. It works well enough, but on a dual-core 2GHZ system, it still can take 5 minutes to do an 8 image photomerge.
My new instal of CS3 does not have FILE|Automate|Photomerge showing as an option. It did previously. It also lacks the icon to shift to Bridge. When I use the File command to start Bridge I get an error message about missing a JAVA script.
When I start Bridge (which appears to work) and try to send files to CS3 for Photomerge, it tells me that CS3 busy and asks if I want to queue up the work (even if CS3 is open).
