I clicked on the leval and clicked on the white and the black and typed 5 on the b and clicked on the white and typed 95 on b . I closed and opened it and changed them back. I tried to save and opened it and it changed it them back. How do I keep them?
I almost print a picture when I saw that the image too large then the paper's printable area some clipping will occur.
I am trying to adjust the noise level with the level tool but its not working. I move the arrows every which way see that it changes. I get it to were i want it them press ok and it only changes a little bit.
It become what it was in the preview. The level tool works when I add it as a new adjustment layer but I don't want like that I want to be able to copy the new level of noise I just made and can't if I add new adjustment. what should I do to fix this? O and this is the trial version and It wasn't working earlier with lots of other tool but i uninstalled it and now they are working except the level tool how I want it to.
I am having a little trouble with some doors showing up on the level 1 door schedule that are actually on level 2. They are curtain wall doors.
View 6 Replies View RelatedThe underlay does not show up for Level 1 when I am on Level 2, but it does show up for Level 2 when I am on Level 1. the underlay option is on for Level 1, so I'm not sure why it's not showing up. I am using Revit 2014.
View 1 Replies View RelatedSay I have an image where I'm attempting to extract a mask from and I've found that one of the channels will serve as a good starting point. Further suppose that I have found that I want to increase the luminance level of pixels in the range of 60 - 65 by 10 luminance levels each:
i.e. all pixels with luminance values of 60,61,62,63,64,65 would, after the operation have luminance values of 70,71,72,73,74,75. Is such a thing possible with Photoshop?
Im watching a photoshop video, and he tells me to go into levels for the layer mask, but doesnt tell me how to do it.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI sent the attached PDF -URL....to print with Sense Creative. The cards were printed and they've turned out quite visibly green on the reverse (where it should be white).
I've printed the artwork on several printers I have access to and it looks as it should, however SC are saying that the issue is with the artwork
"The green tinge you see on the reverse of these cards is prevalent in the artwork. The makeup of the background is approximately c-15 m-11 y-15 k-0. the predominant levels of the yellow and cyan will give you the green tint. Upping the levels of the artwork in or substituting the cyan, magenta and yellow levels with more black in Photoshop will likely give you the result you require. We are satisfied that in both instances, the artwork has printed correctly and the colours are well within tolerance given the nature of the artwork."
So, I'm in a bit of a pickle as the cards are needed for an event next week.How do I change the image levels? Or are they talking nonsense and trying to pass the buck?
Operating System:
Windows XP Professional (Service Pack 3)
Software:
Adobe Design Premium CS3 (10.0.1)
Photoshop Lightroom 4.1 and Lightroom 2.0 - on Trial)
For reasons that I cannot fully explain all my images are now opening as "Smart Objects" rather than "Background Layers" in CS3
I have also lost the capacity to "Dodge" (Multiply blend mode) or "Burn" (Screen blend mode)images with empty "Levels" adjustment layers.
I am able to highlight the respective layer and create the empty Levels adjustment layer, change the blend mode to either Multiply or Screen, fill the Layer Mask with Black (Alt & backspace), change the opacity level as desired, select the brush tool and change the foreground colour to white to enable the applicable Dodge or Burn processes.
Unfortunately, it does not function irrespective of the preferred opacity level. The Dodge or Burn feature is static with no effect on the image.
I cannot recall any settings to open all files as Smart Objects in Photoshop CS3 but would welcome some help in identifying such a setting if it exists. Alternatively, I would welcome any other suggested methods of correcting the above difficulties.
Respect to John Beardy for his guidance and suggestions about working differently with the "Smart Objects".
I would, however, welcome some help in regaining the capacity to work effectively with empty "Levels" adjustment layers.
Is there any shortcut to adding a stroke to a level?
Also, is there any way to chenge the default color in a stroke?
Where I find the Level up Game for Photoshop CS6 32 bits?
View 1 Replies View RelatedIf I copy something from one later and paste it onto another layer, it puts it dead centre and then I have to move it to align it with where it was. This is a bit of a hassle. Is there a way to copy from one level and then paste that item to the exact same place on another level?
View 4 Replies View RelatedMy level adjustments have suddenly become grayed out. Why?The 'Auto' button is no longer available to me, noer are any of the drop down menus.I am using CS5
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm going to be purchasing a new PC computer system in the near future; which will be loaded with 64-bit Windows 8 or 8.1. I'm presently using CS5 & CS6, both 64-bit versions, on existing computers that have Windows 7.My work is photography and I do a LOT of masking. In order to see what I'm doing while creating masks, I typically use CS5/6 image magnifications of 300% & 400% with a monitor that has 1680x1050 resolution. On another monitor with 1920x1080 resolution, I have to increase my working space magnification to 400% & 500% to get the same "view size" of my work. That's because the "view size" decreases as the monitor resolution increases. My main problem is that CS5/6 will not produce "smooth" images at a magnification over 500%; as the image is pixelated to a degree that I can't accurately cut a mask. Therefore I need to do my work at magnifications of 500% or less, but I need a "view size" large enough so that I can comfortably see what I'm doing.
For my new system, I'm considering monitors with 2560 horiz resolution. In order to maintain my on-screen "view size" of the 1680 & 1920 monitors, a 2560 monitor would probably force me to use CS magnifications in excess of 500%.
What can I do such that CS will produce "smooth" (non-pixelated) images at magnifications greater than 500%? Or...what can I do to make the entire CS window appear larger; so the "view size" of the 2560 resolution monitor is comparable to a lower (1920, for example) resolution monitor?
if you have used CS6 you may have noticed the Applications bar was removed. According to Adobe it was removed to make more vertical "real estate" for the workspace which makes no sense. When maximized it uses zero additional vertical space but that's another argument.
As part of the Applications bar, there was a drop down menu for a few preset zoom levels. 25, 50, 100 and 200. I got addicted to using this drop down for the work I do in PS and specifically 100 and 200% as I'm also zoomed in make minor changes and I want to jump to 100 or 200% to see what the changes look like at size or zoomed out.
drop down menu like that for zoom in CS6? I know the original shortcut ctrl-1 was for actual pixels but I have that and all the other keys close to the left ctrl/shift/alt used for other functions. I rarely take my right hand off the mouse as I work and that was the best way for me to zoom quick to 100%.
I'm new to Text Extrusions in Photoshop CC (Ext) as I typically model in a 3D app. I'm modeling text that will merge with a photographic background. All the tools are fairly straightforward, but I keep getting hard edges on the text bevels. I just want a basic smooth rounded bevel (fairly narrow). But the bevel options I choose all tend to create a dark outline at the bevel. Is it possible to edit the bevel options?
Also, even though I have selected soft shadows, the shadows cast by the letter form onto itself have hard edged ray trace shadows. Is there a setting the will soft the shadow edges? I have viewed a couple of useful tutorial videos, but they don't address the issues I'm trying to solve.
I need to adjust the right hand selection to the same settings as the left one. The result should be perfect and invisble...
Do i use levels, layer or what? and is it possible to copy the values in one selection to another, and how do i do it?
I've got a question that I'm sure has a very simple solution but I can't find it even though I've searched all over the place. Is there a way to change the default zoom level when Photoshop opens an image? I'm using CS2 on OSX (though the screenshots I've included to illustrate what I'm asking are from Win XP).
View 3 Replies View RelatedI clicked on the auto color correction from the level because the picture was pink. I looked at the shadod clip .50 , highlight clip .50 and closed it when It changed the picture and it's better now but Can I still use the arrow from red, blue and green from the level to get better pictures?
View 4 Replies View RelatedMy 2 questions are:
1. What did I do wrong sofar?
2. How do I get my 3 graphics to function as menu/navigation?
I tried to use shortcut Ctrl+L to access Level... But, my Photoshop Elements 9 did not respond and the Level window did not show up.
View 5 Replies View RelatedIs there any way to put a non-destructive cap on color saturation, the way you can shelf frequencies above or below a certain level in audio engineering?
In other words, an adjustment layer that would limit all saturation values over X to.. well.. X.
Example : Let's say we set it to 80% max. Pixels with saturation levels of 80 or below remain untouched. Pixels with saturation levels over 80 are re-adjusted to 80.
(Simply lowering the saturation levels via an adjustment layer will lower everything, including portions that are already below the desired cap. We don't want that.)
I am using Photoshop CS6 on a Mac, OS 10.8.2. When I go to File/File Info... and look for the date a photo was created, I only see the time to the level of minutes. I need to know to the level of seconds. I believe earlier versions gave this information.
View 14 Replies View RelatedNow that the application bar has been dropped from CS6, the zoom level feedback is also gone in full screen mode. It would be nice to see zoom level feedback similar to how Pixelmator displays the level with each zoom in or out in the center of the frame.
The UI device is similar to the feedback that the new crop tool displays to show the changing image size.
Photoshop creates several preview images (more smaller than the original) for displaying the effects and creating histograms. So, I think that if I choose the cache level as 1 in the preference window, Photoshop does not create any smaller preview and it always displays information according to the original file.
But, this is not the case, as far as I can see. I set my cache level to 1 and it still displays histogram for cache level 3. So, my question is ... what is the secret behind the cache level?
I need to auto level about 600 pictures. I have been doing them one at a time but its taking Forever!!! Is there a way to open say a folder full at a time of say 100 pics and do them all at once? I have the latest photoshop!
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have album category B inside album category A. I want to move B to the top level. How do I do that? I can easily drag B and drop it on another category but I cannot find where to drop it to make it a top level category.
View 2 Replies View Relatedregain the upper menu icons from CS5.
View 21 Replies View Related have a problem with the settings of the graylevel profile. RGB and CMYK works fine, but graylevel does not. If I change the modus from RGB to graylevel, white (255, 255, 255) becomes a light yellow (255, 254, 220). Black (0, 0, 0,) becomes (1, 1, 1,).
The monitor is calibrated and there is no color problem. White is white and black is black (as usual). It's just the graylevel gamut in photoshop.
RGB: Samsung Natural Color (rgb profile of my monitor)
CMYK: not important
Gray: Dot gain 10% (I tried every profil but I always got the same result. White becomes a light yellow).
Look at the screenshot, you will see the difference between rgb and graylevel: [URL]...
I have both CS5 and CS6 Photoshop but the levels droppers in CS6 are making the photos yellow and faded. Do I have a setting wrong?
View 4 Replies View RelatedWould it be possible to update the PSE10 Raw to level ACR 7.2 to use the RAW from Sony RX100
View 2 Replies View RelatedIn my latest video, I have inserted several different music tracks but they vary in volume. Is there any way one can make all inserted tracks an identical (or similar) volume level?
View 1 Replies View Related