I've been experimenting in several programs (Lightroom, Photoshop) and playing with color balance and split toning but can't get these same vintage-ish color toned effects. Especially the toning and slightly opaque effect in the shadows.
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I want to design a template for my band's myspace, however the problem is with most artists, what I have envisioned hasn't exactly been going as planned when I try to achieve it in photoshop. What I had imagined is a template that had mist, fog, leather and moonbeams,
The first effect I am looking to do looks like this:
I had wanted to have leather as the background, as in not too detailed but shiny like this picture. However I have no idea where to start to make leather that looks this quality.
The second effect here is a mist, ghost like fog:
I pretty much am looking to do this effect scattered for the template, yet I have tried and have no where to start or accomplish this.
The last effect would be moonbeams:
All I really want is to have moonbeams that are similiar to this, no idea really what to do :/
Anyways I realize I am asking for a lot here, but I am in no ways advanced with Photoshop,
How to achieve this kind of over exposed contrasty effect of a picuture?
Here were the examples.
Edited
View 1 Replies View RelatedTake a look at the following site:
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For the background image halfway down, there's a totem pole sort of "merged" in with the color. But it's not simply an overlay blend mode or opacity change. It has essentially seemed to adopt an entire palette based on the background color itself.
I think I recall a way to create this effect in Photoshop, but in GIMP I'm stuck. How would one go about making that "color overlay", given any regular picture and a colored background? I'm doing this for a website, by the way.
HDR toning crashes PS CS6 and CC on 64bit only.opening 32bit or certain 16bit file on photoshop(CS & CC) 64bit crashes every time.HDR images dont preview properly either.same file loads as 32bit in CC 64 bit mode and loads as 16bit in CC32bit mode.actual file is in 16bit mode.Photoshop 32bit mode has no such issues with opening or toning HDR image.
View 19 Replies View RelatedI am trying to learn what can be done using HDR Toning in Photoshop CS5. At first I was impressed by its capabilities. I was working on a photograph of a train in a wooded valley in eary spring (before most leaves were out), with bright sunlight coming from almost straight overhead. So, the top of the train and the ballast in front of the train are very bright, the woods to the sides were shadowed, and the sides and nose of the train were in deep shadow. HDR Toning seemed to be giving me very nice control over adjusting the various tones. But when I closed the HDR Toning window, PhotoShop thought for a couple of seconds, and then changed my image, making it much darker than it was when the window was open!
What's going on here? Is this expected behavior? How can I get HDR Toning to keep my photograph from changing after I close the window?
I have a question about using toning curves...
In older versions of Photoshop, I was able to use Paul Butzi's beautiful toning curves (which are ACV files) through the Curves menu.
There was a 'Load' button, and if I pressed that, I could browse my curves folder and pick whatever curve I wanted. Is there any way to do that in Photoshop CS5? I can't seem to find a 'Load' button under Curves, and I'm not sure how to use the Custom Curve feature.
I can't seem to load them under Filters, either. How I could load them?
how to get the blue tone like in this picture, while maintaining the true whites and blacks?
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View 7 Replies View RelatedSo i hit the little "T" text tool, and i get the generic Windows 7 "This program has encountered a program and needs to close" error. I click out of the error box, and all my work disappears as well as any changed preferences and recently opened files. The same happens when i try to use Image> Adjustments>HDR Toning. Yay. And what's funny is BOTH errors display a fault module of "CoolType.dll."
I have tried EVERYTHING that everyone has posted about on every computer-related forum that i could find. NOTHING has worked at all. I deleted every single font minus the system fonts, including anything mentioning them in the system registry. Tried new copy of the dll file, nothing. Reset Photoshop preferences, nothing. System restore failed. Uninstall/reinstall of entire Adobe Master Collection failed.
Oh, and in the 32-bit version, HDR Toning works but the text tool gives me an error message that "something prevented the text engine from being initialized." And, well, i just don't want to use the 32-bit version.
I have a set of images in 32 bit .hdr format, which I would like to turn into 8 bit png files. Specifically, they are 6 sides of a cubemap, which join together seamlessly, and still need to do so after the conversion.
I've played around with the options in the HDR toning dialogue and have a setup I really like the look of, based around the 'local adaptation' method. The trouble is, if I apply those settings to each of the 6 images individually, they are no longer seamless (some have higher/lower contrast and brightness etc), presumably because these settings are 'relative to' the image being processed.
how can I apply the same kind of operations to each of these images (so they remain seamless), mimicking what the 'local adaptation' method is doing?
The specific settings I have changed in the dialogue are the edge glow radius and strength, the 'detail', and the colour vibrance and saturation.
I used CS2 for a while as my son had it for his business needs. In it PS had presets for selenium tones and there was one that used a purple in the quad set and after some minor tweaking by me really had that selenium tone to it. The purple made the blacks very dense and the mid tones very rich looking.
I don't have the combination of the quad set I was using but is it possible to use a similar set with PSP X2? They used curves to adjust each color separately so the person using the quad could adjust it to their own tastes. I used to have the purple very subtle, at least to my eyes, which left the image very rich looking.
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EDIT: click the image to see it correctly
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But I need more control than I can achieve with the nine section grid it imposes on my image.I frequently need to warp a page layout to look like it is situated within an open book..I can get it pretty close but I want it perfect.
I have tried using Puppet Warp and the Liquify Filter to fine tune my warps but they dont really do their thing without deteriorating the image in undesired ways.
how better to control my warps so they follow the curves of the pages more convincingly?Any resources available that show advanced methods of using the Warp tool?(Most of what I find on YouTube is useless beginner stuff)
How to achieve a 1950s painted pin-up effect?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI am trying to make my photo looks like
this 2 two looks:
1. a bit dramatic (the 1st pic (before&after))
2. kinda of err retro/vintage feel
3. how I can make this kind of effect esp the tv glitch and lines
I am trying to put a layer on top of another and achieve a specific effect.
My bottom layer is a normal color image, however my top layer is a single object with completely white background. I am trying to over-layer the two in such a way that the object on the top layer is fully visible and blocks the space behind it. However the white portion of the top layer should not interfere with the bottom image. I know there is a cropping method but I cannot use any cropping in what I am doing. I need to figure out how to do this effect using layer options.
The trick is that I have a completely white background on my top image, so I think there should be a way to make white transparent but at the same time keep the object visible.
Here is a sample of what i am looking for (I did this using cropping technique but need to figure out how to do it using layer options/effects such as multiply and overlay)