Photoshop :: How To Achieve Better Control With Warp Tool
Aug 21, 2012
But I need more control than I can achieve with the nine section grid it imposes on my image.I frequently need to warp a page layout to look like it is situated within an open book..I can get it pretty close but I want it perfect.
I have tried using Puppet Warp and the Liquify Filter to fine tune my warps but they dont really do their thing without deteriorating the image in undesired ways.
how better to control my warps so they follow the curves of the pages more convincingly?Any resources available that show advanced methods of using the Warp tool?(Most of what I find on YouTube is useless beginner stuff)
I have many images of skies with clouds in them. I would like to warp a cloud into the shape of an airplane. I have tried (thus far UNsuccessfully) to control the warp tool - or more accurately the grid - well enough to do this.
I don't want to crop or otherwise delete the other pixels, because I want the edge to have the "real" cloud effect of wisping away. But, when I try to use the warp tool, too much of the cloud changes.
(I need to make the fuselage section fairly thin, while the wings must remain wide.) Can anyone give me some pointers on how to gain better control? Or is the warp tool completely inadequate for this project?
My problem is absolute control of the strip. I want to control the strip when warping so it will go over objects and wrap around things etc.
Is there a program or filter that does this.
I made this quickly in Photoshop to illustrate my problem.
The strip is several different vector paths with gradient and used a brush to paint in the dots. This method is tedious. I need a quicker more controlled way..
when I look in the CS1 help, it tells how to use it and even shows what the icon for it looks like but I cant find anything in the help about where the button for the Warp tool is.
I've converted a 2D image into a smart object, dragged into a project then transformed it using the Distort command (similar to how you might distort a 2d image to make it sit inside a photo frame at an angle) . I need to then warp that image around over something that looks like a curved panel thats 2D but looks 3d. Its not a 3d object, but a rendered 2d image that just looks 3d.
I'm using the Transform > Warp tool as Puppet Warp isnt available after using Distort when using Smart objects.
Warp works fine to some extent but I could really do with more handles and smaler grid for more accurate warping rather than the default 3x3 grid & handles..
Possible to add more handles/ nodes/ control points (or whatever they'e called) and/ or increase grid points in the same way Puppet Warp does this so as I drag around I control a tigher & smaller space?
When I free transform and warp a layer to lie flat, sometimes I'll get this harsh pixellation at one end of the layer. It doesn't appear while I'm doing the warp, just suddenly coming up when I hit enter to apply the transformation.
So for example, Ill be transforming this grid, which is originally about 9x this big.So when I''m running the transformation/warp, it looks like this Not great, but at least most of the lines are still intact on the left and back (the right side is basically fine looking) But once I hit enter, I get this And now like, half the lines I did have are gone, and what's left is super pixelated.
Is there an interpolation setting I could be using? Is it something unavoidable from how distorted I make the layer?
I am trying to edit a photo using the mesh warp tool. I have it exactly as I want it, but when I go to apply it, every part of the photo I have warped gets deleted and I just get the white background underneath. I have looked online for guides and videos but when they apply their changes their edits stay exactly the same!
I'm trying to recreate some vintage packaging artwork in CorelDraw. I've imported my reference material to a bottom layer and am recreating the text and graphics on layers above it. The reference photos I have been supplied with have a number of problems and most I have been able to fix in PhotoPaint. (Horizontal and vertical shear distortion). However, the 'fish-eye' distortion created by the camera lens is proving difficult to surmount. I have tried using the Mesh Warp tool but the ridiculously small workspace window it generates makes it impossible to render accurate changes to the image. Is there a way to coax PhotoPaint to create a larger working space to increase its accuracy.
I should be able to apply an effect to a line that has been made with the line tool. Why is this not working?I thought that maybe I might have disabled Effects somehow, but I can't think of anything.
Is there a way to add a node onto a line when you're making it? Obviously you can just make the line, shape it, and then make a new one to get more nodes, but I find it annoying to line up and such. If you can't add more manipulation nodes onto it, that should be a feature!
it seems like in the past whenever i made either artistic text or paragraph text color default, that was reflected in the control Text using the Dimension tool.
but no matter what changes i make in X6, it remains a chalky blue.
I am looking for that chair is too old/paint falling off/grass overgrown effect. The whole look that the picture is acient and fantasy liek. How do I achieve this? Maybe any links to specific tutorials?
Using AutoCAD 2013 and TOL command to generate feature control frames. We set our lineweights based on layer assignments.
Problem is that when printing, AutoCAD seems to randomly assign a lineweight to the feature control frames. It can vary from what it's supposed to be (such as lineweight set for the dimension layer) or thicker than even what the object lines are set at. Seems to pick a random linewieght at time of printing for these elements (just the boxes, not the symbols/text itself).
Is there a setting we should be defining somewhere to force it to follow the lineweight of the layer that it has been assigned to? Known bug?
I'm looking how to achieve the circle ripple'ish effect that can someone be seen in the outer points of image marked with "1" - (ignore the lens flare itself, don't want it there). I've just played around with some tools to see if I could get somewhere near the effect - this is not quite perfect though. The image marked with "2" got a very low opacity example of this.
Im looking to do something like nr "2" with the white "ripple"/glow'ish effect. I figured it could be done in a manual combination of -> making a circle shape -> applying some effect to it -> copy the layer -> scale it down etc. But haven't been apple to find a useable combination and was hoping there perhaps were some filter or other method.
I've been experimenting in several programs (Lightroom, Photoshop) and playing with color balance and split toning but can't get these same vintage-ish color toned effects. Especially the toning and slightly opaque effect in the shadows.
I am trying to put a layer on top of another and achieve a specific effect.
My bottom layer is a normal color image, however my top layer is a single object with completely white background. I am trying to over-layer the two in such a way that the object on the top layer is fully visible and blocks the space behind it. However the white portion of the top layer should not interfere with the bottom image. I know there is a cropping method but I cannot use any cropping in what I am doing. I need to figure out how to do this effect using layer options.
The trick is that I have a completely white background on my top image, so I think there should be a way to make white transparent but at the same time keep the object visible.
Here is a sample of what i am looking for (I did this using cropping technique but need to figure out how to do it using layer options/effects such as multiply and overlay)
