would like to stack three pictures ofmy Nephew playing first base. Top photo the ball in mid air second photo ball hitting the glove and third where he stretched with his foot on the bag and clearly showing the runner out by a step. Maube a 19x11 frame or something standard close to that size where I don't have to get a customized frame.
Would like to have the window split in thirds and insert each photo and move it around as to what I want to be viewed. Am I asking too much? Tried cropping each photo and then tried to create one picture and I gave up after working on it for a very longtime.
I need to move a bunch of pictures located in different sub-folders on Drive C: to my new 2Tb Drive D:
I try to move it in LR via the import function with MOVE. But, they are all greyed out (not selectable) and when I try to move 1-by-1 by right-clicking on a picture, a message is displayed telling me that the picture is already in the catalogue. I know it is already in the catalogue. All I need to do is to move it to another HDD.
How would you do this? I have just thought of deleting all files in the catalogue and import them then, but it just does not feel right.
I'm trying to recreate a bunch of IV-Studio settings to match a bunch of renders made by previous staff that did not leave behind the assembly files they used to make them in the first place.
I've ran into a problem with some parts displaying incorrectly. (they display incorrectly in the render/in the studio environment/ in the assembly/ and when in the part file) I've played with material and appearance styles but they have no effect, I've also tried quality/performance/compatibility hardware modes.
We have 5 or 6 parts that share the ridge pattern that is causing problems and they are affected in the same way.I'm running XP(32), IV2012-sp2, fx1800 with 6.14.0012.6570 drivers.
I am trying to create UVS on a bunch of spherical rocks. Is there a way to do this all at once without having all the rocks on the same projection? I have tried using MEL but can't quite figure it out.
I have a bunch of pictures taken from a digital camera, and what I want to do is to form words out of the pictures. For example, I want to take a bunch of pictures and make a letter "t," then I want to take a bunch of pictures and make a letter "h." And eventually I want to be able to spell out "The WP Video '05-'06." Would anyone be able to assist me with this?
I have a ton of icons 100x100 and I made a droplet to import them into a document as separate layers and make them 125X125.
I now need to make all of the images look like they are falling out of a hole, like confetti squares. is there a way I can make each image/layer look like it is falling, randomly ( I don't want each image to have the same perspective.)
I really need this to be automated (I have over 500 icons) .
The current crop of photo sharing apps like Instagram have made filter effects a popular way of adding some extra vim to your shots. What if you want to give the ‘retro’ look to photos that aren’t on your phone though?
How can we create retro looking photos in PhotoPaint?
I am trying to figure out if i can take a picture and edit the border so that the picture is in the shape of a star or a circle? The reason i ask is my mom uses this software to make T-Shirts and she needs to know if there is a way to make the photos into different shapes as opposed to just the rectangle picture
I have thousands of thumbs in where i would like to improve brightness sharpen etc automatically. I created an action that do it all and save for web in specific folder. But now i get a problem.
Name of thumbs have sizes 40-50 chars. So everything will be alright if photoshop didnt have some limits for save for web filenames, it cut my names to like 16 chars and overwrite all thumbs in gallery in 1 file
When i tried "save as" thumbs weight 3x mroe then initial, even when i tried low quality..
Is it any way to fast improve quality of thumbs that are all in different folders? The best thing would be if program could just overwrite thumb so there would be no problem but I don't know how to do it.
I would like to do it all automatically cause i have many galleries where i would like to change thumbs.
What's the best focal length for taking pictures of flowers. OOPS I meant, what's the best subject to camera distance for taking pictures of flowers.
We have to ask the resident expert on perspective. Joelle is the resident expert in the PSP newsgroup on perspective.
Joelle's pictures show an incredible mastery of achieving a desired depth of field (aka perspective).Look at the attached images. Both have flat lighting. Neither have any artifacts of lighting, placement, backgrounds, etc. to achieve or remove the sense of depth.
Yet the first image is distinctly three dimensional. The second image is distinctly two dimensional (oriental style). It looks like magic to me.
I can't get my monitor calibration to suit everybody. Some people have told me that my pictures are too bright. Others say that they are too dim
So I am looking for a monitor calibrator which will automatically set brightness and contrast. Contrary to popular opinion, I am not concerned with color accuracy. My experience has been that the ICC IEC 61966-2.1 profile will give pleasing color results even if not always accurate. As best as I recall, my Huey (now lost) asked me to set brightness and contrast.
So i can create a photo strip in Lightroom and i have (just adding 2x2.5" cells and dragging pictures over) but after trying to add an additional picture it changes all the cells to the new picture. After researching it seems that Lightroom wont let you add/print different pictures on the same sheet. So i have two questions:
1. Can you not add mutiple pictures in terms of a photo strip and print out in Lightroom 4?
2. What adobe software (or even apple aperture) can you create a custome photo strip and add text for the event at the bottom and print? Preferrably something that is simple for like when my Canon 7D takes pictures and you can drag and drop into the cells, determine # of prints and print, on the spot. I am starting a photo booth company where person #2 will manually move pics on my Macbook Pro (if need be) to the photo strip template and determine # of prints (not automated).
Software & Version: Adobe Photoshop CC OS: Windows 7
I have a bunch of images which need to be resized - all to 300x195 px at 300 dpi in .jpeg formatAll the images are of different sizes in their original form.While resizing, there should be no distortion. The scaling needs to be in proportion.While saving the resized, all the images should be saved using the same naming convention. Here's how I am doing it...
1. New Blank document - 300x195px, 300dpi & RGB mode. 2. Drag all the images into the blank document, and middle-align each layer. 3. Resize each layer individually while holding Shift+Alt to do it proportionately. 4. Save each layer seperately as a .jpeg using the naming convention required.
I have thousands of thumbs in where i would like to improve brightness sharpen etc automatically. I created an action that do it all and save for web in specific folder. But now i get a problem. Name of thumbs have sizes 40-50 chars. So everything will be alright if photoshop didnt have some limits for save for web filenames, it cut my names to like 16 chars and overwrite all thumbs in gallery in 1 file lol.
In the old Photoshop Album, I could transfer 300 photos (or more/less) at once, hit ctrl-A, then click "Photo Fix" and it would fix all the photos without having to select one at a time and taking forever. Checking to see if Elements does that as well before I buy it.
When exporting my edited pictures to a folder in m Pictures it goes as a blank soft color but no photo. It looks like a tiny dot and when you open it, it is a soft color..
I have a number of images (faces) that I want to use for 3D texturing, but to use them, I need to do a few things:
1) open the eyes wider (whenever the subject is squinting); 2) Flatten the lips into a neutral position if smiling or frowning 3) Close the lips so teeth are not showing at all if the subject had mouth open (talking or smiling)
Best ways to do this in Photoshop (CS6) or if I'm better off using a different program. I'd like to keep things as 'photo realistic' as possible, though doesn't really have to be perfect - just don't want jagged edges or cartoon appearance.
When I use the art history brush at a very small size, it acts very weird. As soon as I click in the document, a bunch of snake like things appear all over. Like a bunch of little worms spreading all over the page. I've trashed my prefs, I've reset my tool, I've tried different brushes, I've checked scattering, noise, etc. in my brush settings, I've checked my blend modes, pretty everything I can think of doing, and they are still doing it.