In Camera Raw, the Tone Curve Channel selection is disabled. How can I enable it to allow me to adjust specific colors in Camera Raw?
I’m using Photoshop CS5, Camera Raw version 6.7.0.339 on a Windows Vista 64 bit system, and my camera is a Nikon D90.
What does a curves adjustment look like that slightly inreases mid-tone contrast, like when prepping for print output?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI just upgraded to LR 5 from 4. Shortly after starting to use it, I noticed Tone Curves, Details and Effects are all missing in the Develop mode. I re- downloaded and installed with no return of the missing tools. How do I get them back.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIn camera raw, "apply auto tone adjustments" option in the preferences dialog is not same with the "auto" button on the basic panel, isn't it? Both of them control the same sliders, are there any relationship between them?
View 3 Replies View RelatedIS there an update for Elements 11 to enable the Sony A7R camera RAW file to be used within Elements
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am preparing a batch of images for test submission, for a stock photo library.Recently a person working for one of the visual effects studios in London happened to tell me that these strict agencies use some set of layers that can separate tonality and color values to check for banding, dirtiness, noise and all those technical flaws that the human eye can't notice on a monitor.He said they perhaps have an action for it so that they can review faster.
He said that it is known as 'Craze Curves' or 'Visibility Curves' technique.He further added that all the studios use it before giving the final files to clients so that there is no issue in printing afterwards.It is sort of a quality control check and has been used by digital and advertising agencies all over the world.
But now his email seems to have changed and I can't get in touch with him to know how to use the technique.
Can't open file from Nikon D7100 in Camera RAW Plug-In,i have Photoshop CS5 and plugin is upgraded.Format NEF from Nikon D 7100 is not in this plug-in photoshop.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am using Photoshop Elements 11, using WIndows 7 Operating System. I have a new camera Canon Rebel T5i, and having problem viewing images in raw format (cr2).Message in PE11, states, "Camera model not supported by installed version of Camera raw."
Canon software views images. Suspect my minimum camera raw plug in version does not support this new camera..I am unable to locate in the software any menu item that allows me to view the camera raw plug in version.
How to even out the skin color, I have a picture of a model, unfortunately due to light and make up and her skin color the color of her face and her hands and body don't match, I think I saw a video on youtube where the skin color was evened out throughout the picture from raw I think this was done on bridge but I am not sure. How to even out the skin color either on PS or bridge?
I currently have CS5 on a win 7 pc.
if there was a way to create a brush that half was the foreground color and half was the background color...
for example, I have a mountian brush. and the shadow of the mountian is black, as is the outline, but alot on the inside is white. Since its white, when i use the brush, if they overlap, you can see through the mountian... not exactly what i was going for. So, any way to use 2 colors? or make the brush sold without making it all back? I tried a shade of grey, but that just creates an lighter opacity of the forground color, and the FG/BG jitter just chages the color of what was originally black.
How do I create that two-tone effect (on the people)?
View 7 Replies View Relatedi've been trying to immitate this effect eversince i learned Photoshop but i can't seem to get it right do you guys know how?
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow I can remove orange tone of a photo taken by night? A random example from google images:
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have an image half the image is much brighter than the other half, i do not mean the sun is shining in one half anf the other is in shade, the image has a fault, a third of it is a diagonal strip like brushing the dodge tool over part of an image, i would like the image to be the same shade an colour and brightness, or near as i can, i have tried using the mask tool and dodge tool but it is quite messy,
View 1 Replies View RelatedHave no choices in the camera calibration tab inside camera raw plugin. Use CS3 and Raw 4.6. Are choices only available in later version or PS? Also in Raw preferences choice for camera serial number and also setting as defaults. Where to enter serial number etc.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI was asked to take the group photo, cut out the black girl, and insert the young man. See all images below and my results. the only thing I'm not happy with is the young man was better lit than the group one. I was playing around with the controls of the young man to bring his tone more in line with the group (hue; saturation; color levels; etc.) and I just could not figure it out.
what I can do to get the young man to match up tone wise with the group? Or vice versa, even?
For quite a while I have been using the Photoshop HDR for initial processing of my HDR shots. My workflow is to "open in HDR Pro in Photoshop" from Lightroom. With LR 3.x and CS5 there was no problem - make the initial tonemapping settings in CS5, hit "OK", and save the resultant TIF back to lightroom for further processing.
With LR 4.1 I do the same thing, the files import into CS6 and the tonemapping window comes up, but after I hit OK in the tonemapping window, the resultant tonemapped TIF file is oversaturated(This still in CS6). It needs about 30 points of saturation reduction in LR to get it back to what it showed in the tonemapping window.
I have colour gamut set for Pro Photo RGB in both LR and PS. I can show some screen captures later.
While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc).Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made?
As a preliminary to a digital painting I need to identify the overall mid tone (tonal value, not hue) of a color photograph and then reproduce that mid tone in the CS4 Color Picker (or somewhere) so that there is a choice of color tints that can be given to that particular (overall mid) tone. It will then be used to simulate an imprimatura transparent wash treatment over a white canvas (layer).
It should be easy I'm sure but I haven't been able to find a way to do it. I had hoped that Levels might be used to identify the mid tone, and then give it an identifier (?like an RGB number)which could be used in the Color Picker to choose a color with the mid tone value.
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation. In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI'm doing this for a project, and I need to make those stitches look realistic. I've tryed changing the hue/saturation, exposure, levels, curves, etc. But i can't get the skin tone of the stitches to match the skin tone of the picture.
i want the skin tone behind the stitched to match the skin tone of the face, however i want it to look realistic.
i really like the effect of half tone dots but i dont know how to acheive it.
the effect im going for is in this pic.
i assume it a series of filters
While retouching a 'under-exposed' photo, sometimes I can't decide which degree(?) is the relevant skin tone. Though after finishing a work, tones and overall contrast seems to be changed whenever I look at it. Maybe because of various web-site BG, my physical condition, lighting...etc.
I want to know which one do you prefer just based on skin tone and contrast.
I'm trying to color a photo, but I'm getting "so-so" results. The colors (especially the skin tone) look fake.
I've been painting over the picture with the brush tool and then I set the blending mode to "color". Below you will find the original b/w photo and what I have so far.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can achieve a believable color?
my PSE11 was working fine until i bought a new camera and tried to upload photos from my RAW files. It gave me this message
"Could not complete your request because the file appears to be from a camera model which is not supported by the installed version of Camera Raw.Please visit the Camera Raw documentation for additional information."
so i tried to install the update.... installed it fine, kept getting the same message when i would try to open the photo. after researching online i found the suggestion of uninstalling and reinstalling photoshop elements. i did that once, tried the update again...same results. uninstalled again. tried the update again and still getting the same message. ive checked the adobe website and everywhere i look says the version of the camera raw DOES support my camera (nikon D7100).
After an, automatic, update to camera raw 7.3 in Photoshop Elements 11 all Camera Profiles are gone. All that is left is "Matrix". I use Elements 11, windows Vista on a 64-bit machine, my camera is a Nikon D7000.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am making a short stop motion, and I need the colors to be somewhat the same in each picture. I have 150 pictures, but some a brighter / darker than the rest (and some are more yellow than others).
Is there a way, to "align" their colors?
As we know, HDR files are 32-bit floating point type files ... and you also know that we can have 4.294.967.296 different tones in a 32 bit integer file. how many tone levels we can save with a HDR file?
View 2 Replies View RelatedAll of my B&W photos have a sepia tone to them when I open them in Bridge or Photoshop. Opening them in Autodesk Sketechbook Pro no such issue. When a folder containing B&W photos is loading in Bridge the thumbnails are initially grayscale but develop the sepia cast after it has completely opened.In Photoshop I can go to view - proof setup - monitor rgb and get rid of the sepia cast My color setting are appear to correct.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI want to blend and tone the center image (mostly the wood panels) so it looks somewhat compatible with the images on the side. I did one botched job of working on the file for a few hours, and didn't save it in my earlier stages, to my regret. It's all one image.
View 2 Replies View RelatedClone tool has never acted like the demos show it too. This is how it has worked in CS3, 4, 5. I see all the demos that show it working as I would think it should. In reality all I have ever gotten is cloned items which are visually close but are always lighter or darker.
That is light items clone even lighter, about an f stop worth and dark items clone even darker about 1.5 f stops it seems. In fact it will clone white and black just fine but is really almost impossible to get accuate work around neutrals such as skin. After months of various reading and tonight alone I have spent 5 hours of settings and variations trying to get accurate work to no avail. Am I using the wrong tool?
I find I can get accurate clone if I select an area, Control J a layer and then move it and put it in w/ healing or such as necessary. Why must clone adjust things?
