While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc).Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made?
Yes, I'm probably the only person on the planet that wants this, but I liked how the Auto Tone auto adjusted the Exposure slider (ONLY!) and left all the other sliders at zero in the Lightroom 4 beta.
Is there a way to write a preset that returns that behavior?
In camera raw, "apply auto tone adjustments" option in the preferences dialog is not same with the "auto" button on the basic panel, isn't it? Both of them control the same sliders, are there any relationship between them?
I imported tiff images into Lightroom 4 that were scanned by DigMyPics.com. The color of the images look good on the Windows 7 photo viewer. It looks horrible in Lightroom 4. My monitor is callibrated, the import develop setting is set to "none" , the box is unchecked "apply auto tone adjustments".I think that the windows viewer is showing the accurate color of the scan and LR is not. I don't think DigMyPics would send this awful color.
Having just loaded 10,000+ scanned negatives in LR 4.3, I am applying Auto Tone as a starting point for development settings. I have selected all images in Grid View, right-clicked to Develop Settings...Auto Tone. I can then go to the Develop page and Auto Tone is shown in every images History.the Auto button is still visible and I can click on it and get different [generally better] settings.
Is there a reason why Auto Tone applied to multiple photos produces different development settings from when it is applied individually to each photo?
There is an apply auto tone adjustments checkbox in preferences, but it does not work properly. After checking it, some photos still require to click on auto button on the basic panel.
when importing in Lightroom 4, the auto tone adjustment function does not work properly. Most images come out strongly overexposed and there is no way to stop it
is there any way to prevent lightroom 4 to apply auto settings to the image after it is returned from treatment in a plugin? Typically, I would launch SFX or other plugins from LR4 by specifying "submit a copy of the image with LR adjustments". When finished, the result image is returned to LR4 and auto settings are applied to it, as if it was freshly imported. This is very annoying. I have every time to reset all settings manually (exposure, whites, blacks, etc) one by one. Is there a way to treat plugin returns differently from importing images from a disk/card?
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.
If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?
I have just moved from 7.0 to CS3 (and PC to Mac) and am currently trying to get to grips with the new features! Once which I love is the auto-align and auto-blend feature(s). My question is, is there any way to control how these features work? I have seen on some web sites people talk about 'fuzziness' sliders where you can control that if an object (pixels) appear in X% of the photos they should/shouldn't be included in the final image but I cannot find these.
My intention is to use these features to take photos of monuments and have the people who are moving about removed from the final image (I guess it's the auto-align that would do this.) I tried a test and took a number of photos at home but I kept moving one object around (a pen.) The pen appears in all the images but in a different location so it always appears in the final image. When I tried auto-align with a stack that included one image without the pen, the pen was removed from the final image. Given the first scenario (i.e. the object is in all the images but in a different location) is there any way of automatically removing it using auto-align or would this have to be a manual process? In the real world, it would be possible to take a photo of a monument with people in different locations but it would be much harder (or take a long time) to take one where at least one person was not in all the photos (there's always someone loitering.)
I've just ordered a new PC and want to keep it lean, solely for photo and video editing. To that end, I don't want to install AV and intend not to use it for internet access.
Is there any way for me to manually update PS by downloading updates to my laptop and then transferring them to my new PC. I know I can do that with ACR, but cannot find any information on doing it with other updates.
Instead of Photoshop, et al using my Win7 x64 ICC monitor profile, I would like to set it manually, as I'm able to do in other applications. Is this possible?
The reason why is that I have a Dell U3014 and using the software that comes with it, I want to use its sRGB mode (and an associated sRGB profile from my Spyder 4 set as my Windows default) for all of my regular apps, and AdobeRGB mode (and profile) for my CS and other color-aware apps. My other apps DxO, PhotoMechanic, Canon SLR apps, etc. let me choose the profile.
I have just purchased Photoshop CS6 and ran the updater from within Photoshop. I know some of the updates worked but not all. So I ran it again 3 or 4 attempts now have failed with this message:-
It has failed to install - Extension Manager 6.0.6 Update with the error message -Installation failed. Error Code: U44M1P7
I have found a solution on the forum- Download and install the updates manually. Go to [URL]...updates and download the update that you are trying to install.There is no update available there which refers to Extension Manager 6.0.6 Update
I opened the Adobe Application Manager and run it for updates, it reports I'm good - no updates! But when I then try for an update from within Photoshop I still get the same message telling me I need to instal ExtensionManager 6.0.6 UpdateI have tried to find the error log from within my system - but failed misserably (I am on Windows 7-64)
where do I go from here? Do I need Extension Manager? What does it do? Is it vital I install this update?
In PS CS2 I used to manually align 3 images in Photomerge to make a triptych (not a panorama). I can't figure out how to do this in CS6. Do I need to work with a tool other than Photomerge?
I have a Photoshop action that, amongst other things, performs various fill-type operations on parts of an image. I want to run the action on a number different images, but I need to select different parts depending on the image.
Is there a way that I can manually position the cursor (i.e pick the correct area to process) while running the action? Or do I have to break the action up into shorter actions and do the fills manually in between?
Ive tried the dng download but it did nothing in putting the new raw 8.3 into my Photoshop elements 11. How do I do it manually? Ive just bought a Canon 70D and now cant read the raw files.
Photoshop Elements wants to use Google Maps to identify 'Places', and allocating place names in the Organiser. Some of the names are not what I want, and in an English Edition are even coming out in arabic script. How do I rename the place names or, even better enter them manually?
So I've got a couple thousand PSD documents that need to be manually cropped down to best encompass the subject. Since I am unable to find a script that simply opens up the next document in the folder and I would have to manually find the next file each time (remember that files are unselected in Finder after having been saved), which would prove to be quite tedious.
I am using CS4 with Windows XP and lately when I try and use my actions I have to manually click on each step of the action to complete it. Some steps fail to work and the action is useless.
I was working with Elements 7 and have switched to the new Elements 11.
I used to be able to minimize my images and have them on my workspace side-by-side. I liked the convenience of dragging and dropping as well as seeing things right beside each other.
I've had this issue with every recent version of PSE.I'm using 64 bit Windows 7.When I close the organizer, the "Elements 12 Organizer" process is left running.
This prevents PSE 12 restarting, without me manually killing the process from the task manager. I have created a shortcut to the organizer, as I know using the launcher has had issues in the past. I had a forum entry from December 2012 for the same problem with PSE11 which went away when I stopped auto-analyzer in the preferences. This seems to make no difference with PSE 12, which runs "ElementsAutoAnalyzer" anyway!
If I kill Auto-analyzer process it also makes no difference to PSE 12 Organizer restart.
How to even out the skin color, I have a picture of a model, unfortunately due to light and make up and her skin color the color of her face and her hands and body don't match, I think I saw a video on youtube where the skin color was evened out throughout the picture from raw I think this was done on bridge but I am not sure. How to even out the skin color either on PS or bridge?
if there was a way to create a brush that half was the foreground color and half was the background color...
for example, I have a mountian brush. and the shadow of the mountian is black, as is the outline, but alot on the inside is white. Since its white, when i use the brush, if they overlap, you can see through the mountian... not exactly what i was going for. So, any way to use 2 colors? or make the brush sold without making it all back? I tried a shade of grey, but that just creates an lighter opacity of the forground color, and the FG/BG jitter just chages the color of what was originally black.
