i have an obj with a layer in multiple channel, and when im increasing the ptex setup locally in some area, it seems to create artifacts in the Normalmap Channel. It looks like the mapping is broken only in this channel.
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Just apply a new material, this doesn't work at all as it is always a ptex material. Trying to do an unwrap doesn't work as it says it is a ptex model. I can't save or load textures on the model as it is now a ptex material.
How am I supposed to remove ptex from this model? Mud 2012 obviously.
I'm working with Maya 2013 and Mudbox 2013, and try to use PTEX painting in order to paint my character.Â
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Anyway, for some reason, I'm getting visible coloring seams and distortion along them when trying to color with a stencil/stamp over some regions on the model.Â
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Usually, texture gets distorted around extruded regions on my model, and if that's the case - the whole benefit of painting seamless texture goes out of the window.
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I tried increasing/decreasing PTEX resolution, also searched in this forum and tried also edge bleed reduction/increase - unsuccessfully in all. Seams are very visible and texture is distorted.Â
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Now, maybe it's something that is related to the natural bounds of the PTEX technology, but maybe it's just some obvious solution I'm just completely missing.
My work process is importing models from Maya by using Send To Mudbox option, then setting up PTEX with the proper resolution and starting to work.
If I don't set up UVs in my model and instead use PTex painting in Mudbox, can I then export the model to OBJ with UVW maps? I would like to import the model to Octane render which imports OBJ files and their UVW mapping.
I have Mudbox 2009 and am contemplating downloading the 2012 demo to see if Ptex painting makes things easier for me, but it won't work if I can't then bring the painted model into Octane or into my license of Max 2011.
I have ripped a ao map in mudbox using a ptex formate. The problem is I can't seem to load the the ptex file back into mudbox?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I setup a model for ptex painting in mudbox, it's not properly using the surface derivatives of the mesh's faces. Thus the faces which are really small are getting the same size texel data as big ones. This obviously is bad because anything with small bevels and hard surface type work becomes incredibly problematic.
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I'm having a problem trying to export a ptex paint layer to be used in another application.
For some reason when I export it, everything seems to work just fine, until get gets to calculating tangents and then it hangs forever on 99%... Every way I try saving the file, it does this. I can easily paint on my mesh, and save the project file, but I can't export the ptex file.
Deleting the mydocuments/mudbox folder which I did.
I'm using mudbox 2012 64bit on Win 7.
Can a PTEX vector displacement map be used as a stencil or stamp? If not, what's the workflow for going from a PTEX sculpt to a vector displacement texture (e.g. TIFF) that can be used as a stencil / sculpt.
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The problem I'm experiencing is that I sculpted a plane with PTEX and exported a PTEX vector displacement map, however, when I go to the Image Browser to attempt to use it as a stencil or stamp the PTEX file does not show up. The only files I can see in the browser are TIFF, PNG, etc. If I change the Output Options > Map Type to from PTEX to Texture I get an error: "At least on target model has been set up for PTEX. You must select PTEX format(*.ptx) for maps extracted using this target."
I have painting artifacts in Mudbox 2014 even when using the default models. I tried the environment variable "MUDBOX_PAINT_CONTEXT_FLUSH" as suggested on the Service pack 2 page.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWe're experiencing some artefacts near UV seams on our baked displacement maps. We have a clean, multiple UV-tile model which is subdivided, sculpted etc. Baking uses subdivision method, smooth target mesh and UVs on (we render with prman). Edge bleed is default 2, anti aliasing to x2.
Then test the map out by bringing the target model back in, subdivide up to the corresponding level, and sculpt using maps. The artefacts are not everywhere, just on some UV boundaries in some areas, very strange. The UV boundaries are clean quads, same spacing, good use of UV space. My concern is its in sporadic regions, and not globally over all seams.
I have an image that I want to use in a video, though it is not physically large enough to fill the 1920 x 1080 dimensions of the video, though it has a 300ppi resolution and video only needs 72ppi. How do I take advantage of the fact that it is high resolution image, and increase the physical dimensions of the image? Is there a way to do this?.
View 17 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to create a high resolution version of a low resolution texture used in a game. I've found a pattern that I think is acceptable, from a real image.Now the question is this: how can I colorize the large image to that it is as resemblant as possible to the original one? I've tryed a simple colorize, but the result is not so good...
Original texture:
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The image to be colorized:
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I realize the nature of my question maybe asking the impossible, but I have a low res image I downloaded from the internet, placed in an InDesign page, blew it up and printed it out. I was going for the distressed look that it has, it looks ok when I print it out considering it's low res and I blew it up fairly large. However, it's a little too pixelated to look professional when printed. Are they any tricks or things I can do to make it look higher res for print. I've attached the image as well as a screenshot of the InDesign file so you can see it in context.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am a Photoshop newbie and I have a series of graphics (all 72dpi from a website) that I would like to print in 300dpi. Is it possible to take a 72dpi .jpeg or .gif file and easily convert it to a higher resolution printable graphic? If Photoshop can't do it, is there any type of program that can?
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have some big .jpgs with low resolution say 10x10 inch at 72dpi.
is it possible for me to convert it to 2x2 inch at 300dpi?
I need just a bit of help with an image that I am trying to correct. Am having no problem with the color levels or the brightness/contrast. My problem is that after I have adjusted all the needed levels, brightness/contrast, etc I am stuck with an image full of what I call artifacts. I have tried everything I can think of to clear this up but obviously there is something I am missing. Hope someone is able to help me with this. The image that is posted is the original that has been untouched.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI received this .obj model, and when I import it into 3DS max with default settings, it results in strange artifacts around the neck area.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am creating 3D renders in PS CS6, and I am getting strange blocky artefacts in the renders. These appear on first pass and persist throughout the render. This has happened in the last 2 renders I have tried - I haven't used 3D for a while before this and I don't remember these before.
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By blocky artefacts I don't mean the JPG artefacts created by the forum's degrading of the uploaded image, but the light coloured rectangular blocks around the "s",On Win7x64 with latest PS CS6 update; NVidia 650M2GB on a Core i78GB.
Iinstalled version of CS4 v11 with no plugins and all settings at the defaults. If I go to Help > About Photoshop (and other menu selections) it causes a gray line to suddenly appear through the menu bar. If I then move my cursor over the minimize/maximize/close icons in the upper right, artifacts appear. .
View 2 Replies View Relatedi recently fixed a virus on my computer after a few days hard work tracking it down, and since then i have experienced no blue screens anymore, but i had a probel with explorer.exe where it used sometimes over 800MB of memory doing nothing. With more research and monitoring, i discovered its cause was actually a corupt music file on my desktop, and every time i refreshed my desktop, explorer's memory usage would jump up a few dozen more kb of memory.
This is now fixed. BUT, i still have one symptom of something wrong, that doesnt seem to go. My PC is back to being fast it seems now, and there is no noticable real lag between just opening folders like there was, but my desktop still has problems. If i close a full screen program, the computer doesn't exactly slow down, its just the program closes very slightly slower than normal because it closes from top to bottom.
MSN in particular, always leves it's title bar behind when closed. And if i click and drag on my desktop, the little dashed box it makes sticks and doesn't go away. All of this is resolved by a refresh of the desktop, but it doesn't explain why it is happening. Windows XP 32bitNVidia 9800GTX GPU4GB RAM
After using the Filter Extract and Magic Lassoo methods to erase a background of say a model, I usually end up with lots of artefacts.
I then use the backgound erase to remove these. But I find it very time consuming as they do not show up that well on the standard grey checkerboard background.
how to see artefacts easier ?
I have designed 18 "tee-signs" for our disc golf course. They print fine from Illustrator to various color printers. Now, we are getting them printed on a sticker which we will affix to a metal plate and post near the tees. The printer we are working with requested eps, so I saved a few in illustrator eps format and had him print them to test. They look great except for a few artifacts. For instance, for hole 8, around the "8" in upper left there is a very light shaded rectangle. This doesn't correspond to any shape that is buried in there. What it *should* look like is [URL] .... (note, this does NOT show the artifact). So, I printed the eps files myself, and I don't get those artifacts, but I do get a few random lines, and also the corners of the stroked fonts look like they are "selected", i.e. tiny circle.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have already made this business card.. but the business card maker company tells me to increase the DPI to 600.. i am using an image of a car in it.. well how can i make the best(600) Dpi business card? without making the whole thing all over again
View 9 Replies View RelatedI'm by no means a graphic designer, but my job is having me create a 3' x 2' poster (300 ppi) using Photoshop CS3. I am trying to place a few logos on the poster but am having difficulties. My logos are currently about 20 inches wide, and I would like to keep them this width. However, the resolution is 72 ppi. Obviously when I change it to 300 ppi, Photoshop automatically decreases the image size. Is it possible to make the logos 300 ppi and keep the original document sizes?
Or, alternatively, I would like to print this poster on canvas with a local printing company. Is it possible for me to create a smaller version of the 3' x 2' poster (perhaps with a smaller ppi?) without losing too much of the clarity, which the printing company could then blow up to 3'x2'?
I'm working on a project and I'm painting a robot which is in a dark grey. I need to be able to paint in the shadows but Photoshop is going haywire with rendering the gradients. I'm simply using a round brush with 30% opacity and 20% flow. What I'm getting is some VERY ugly jaggedy stepping of tone.
My current project dimension are 5000 x 3000 px. I don't get what is going on. I have not changed blending modes, nor am I using any alternate modes on my brush. All the settings are pretty much out of the box, except for the global settings I mentioned above.
I'm a digital illustrator and I've been using PS for years and I've never run into this problem before. I'm runnin PS CS6 on Windows 7 pro with an NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+ video card.
I'm having a weird problem in Photoshop CS6. I just installed it and I've been getting strange "artifacts" when I use the move tool. Also, when I work with text it displays poorly. It looks rough and not anti-aliased. I'm running Windows 7 64bit and have AMD 6850 GPU.
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I have some really good resoloution images for a large 8x4ft poster project. but one of my clients larger images (an important one) is just a 1000 x 1000px image @ 72dpi that has some artifacts which needs to occupy a approximate 25 inch square on the final print. I can't get a better quality image than this from the client at this time as they don't have it. what techniques can I use in photoshop to increase the print size while improving the final printed image. In the past, I sized up the image to the size needed and set the dpi from 72 to 300dpi (using "bicubic smoother"), add some surface blur, add monochromatic, uniform noise @ 2% +/- (to help smooth out the artifacts). with this image now, there are a lot of flat shiny surfaces where the artifacts are more noticable, etc. what kind of techniques would you use for this kind of job? (apart form hitting the client xD)
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am getting unwanted artifacts when I work with medium to large size brushes in Liquify. The artifacts look like lines of a few pixels width that are offset from the surrounding image area -- almost like pulling a couple of threads in a woven patterned fabric. This has happened with both large and small file sizes. It necessitates way too much retouching.
I use liquify extensively on images and didn't have this problem when I used Photoshop 7. It began with CS. I am now using CS2 on a G5 with OS 10.4. Any ideas how to solve this?
I'm coming up with a strange problem with some of my renders (see attached, the white lines around edge). This is using a daylight system, I used a HDR map for the environment and though maybe that caused the problem, but it did with two other maps in the environment channel as well.
View 9 Replies View RelatedOccasionally, when I change between photos in Lightroom, something like this appears: [URL]
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I've just installed 5.3 from the Creative Cloud and have never seen this type of problem in any other application.
On two occasions, I've encountered artifacts in my photos that I've converted from NEF (using Nikon D7000) to DNG format in Lightroom 3.6.
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