Lightroom :: Artifacts In DNG Files Converted From NEF?
Jan 21, 2012On two occasions, I've encountered artifacts in my photos that I've converted from NEF (using Nikon D7000) to DNG format in Lightroom 3.6.
View 22 RepliesOn two occasions, I've encountered artifacts in my photos that I've converted from NEF (using Nikon D7000) to DNG format in Lightroom 3.6.
View 22 RepliesI imported some RAW files into Lightroom 4, which I then copied/converted to DNG, then edited them. I now want to export them as full size, high-quality jpegs but I only seem to be able to export them at a maximum of about 800kb, which is far lower than full-size. Is this to do with first the conversion to DNG from RAW on the import? Am I best copying them from raw and not converting them to DNG at all? Next question is, will I have to import the original RAWs again and re-edit them to be able to export as full-size high quality jpegs or is there some way to not have to do them again?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI have a new MAC running 10.8 IOS and Lightroom 4.3. I also have a new Canon 5d Mark III. According to documentation Lightroom should recognize RAW files on the camera for download into Lightroom. But while I had success with only importing a single image amid multiple attempts, I cannot. Files are not recognized or cannot be converted to DMG for import. I took the card and put it into my old Rebel XT camera body, and it very slowly worked.
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I have been using Lightroom with the old XT camera with no issues. Now I have a 1000 CF card and I can't get this to work from the camera. I have oredered a card reader which I have seen in other groups is supposed to solve this, but quite frankly: what the heck?
I've been using Lightroom 3 with an external hard drive for a few years now with no problems.
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I shoot raw with my Canon t1i and jpg with my Canon SX-10.
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Just last week I hooked up my external hard drive and Lightroom wouldn't connect to it. Usually when I hook it up, Lightroom opens up automatically. At least it use to.
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I looked at the drive and it seems the tiff files are now called CR2 (Canon Raw I think). Why this happened and is there a way to get them back to where Lightroom will recognize them?
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I can open them in Photoshop, but not Lightroom. I usually go first to Lightroom, then to Photoshop and back. Can't do it know though.
I'm running Paint Shop Pro X. I create a 100x100 pixel JPG using only black and white, then use Alt-L->M->M to collapse down to a single layer, and save the file. When I reload the picture, the black and white are accompanied by several pixels in varying shades of grey. I'm guessing it's trying to apply an anti-alias effect when I load the image but I'm not sure. I've looked through the preferences but haven't found anything. How do I set PSP so it only saves/loads exactly what I created without changing any pixel colors?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI use Canon 60D and normally shoot in mRAW. I am considering a move to DNG conversion so I did some test conversions and was amazed to find that, far from reducing the size of my mRAW files, it increased them by about 60%. I repeated the exercise with RAW files and found that this did reduce the size of the files by over 10%. In fact, i ended up with the crazy situation where the DNG files converted from mRAW were much bigger than those converted from RAW.
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Below are some sample sizes based on Medium previews, Embed fast load data - YES, Embed original RAW file - NO, Compatibility Camera Raw 7.1 and later
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Before :  mRAW      17Mb         mRAW 12Mb
After:          DNG       28.5Mb     DNG 21Mb
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Before:   RAW         23Mb         RAW 22Mb
After:       DNG         20Mb         DNG 19Mb
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If I went for Full Preview, the DNG sizes rose by about 2 Mb
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why the mRAW conversion is so inefficient?
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I am still not entirely sure whether to adopt DNG but, if i do, it looks like I certainly won't be using mRAW as the source.     Â
Occasionally, when I change between photos in Lightroom, something like this appears: [URL]
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I've just installed 5.3 from the Creative Cloud and have never seen this type of problem in any other application.
I am trying to bring back the sky in these photos without altering the bride in the foreground, or anything other objects, aside from the sky. Admittedly I didn't expose for the sky and the stop difference between the foreground and background is quite drastic. There are three pictures. First to show what the overall picture is and what we're dealing with (I've already "locally adjusted" the majority of the sky with method 2 below). Second picture is to show you a sample of the artifacts and fringing. The third picture shows a sample of the halo situation.
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I have tried two things:
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1) Gradient Filter - As most of you are already saying in your head, it is not appropiate in this scenario as it messes too much with the foreground (the bride intersects over some of the sky, so it would be neccessary to to drag it down over her), to the point where the drop in exposure is too intense to bring her back. So that doesn't work.
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2) Local Adjustment Brush - Tried everything with this thing, from auto mask on and off for both the painting and erasing afterwords, different feathering, no feathering, different brush sizes, etc. Nothing I have tried leaves me with a satisfactory final product, that is to say, no ringing artifacts, fringing or halos around the boarder of the bride where she meets with the sky. I am completely lost with what I should do! There is very little information available in other forum posts, and most of the information available is basic at best with suggestions like: "Turn on/off the auto-mask". This is becoming a growing irritation as I have this photograph and another one where I screwed up on my exposure and just burried the sky.
I read the FAQ on files not importing but am afraid I am having a weird problem.I converted my canon's .mov files to several types :avi,mpeg, and mp4, but they still cause PP to crash every time I try to drag the imported file into the source panel.
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I am running HP on Intel Core i7 2630 QM CPU with 6 gig RAM and 64 bit Windows 7.
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Deets on the AVI file that caused the crash:
data rate 20000kbps
fps 29
1920x1080
lenth 56 seconds file size 97.7 mb
I have to print an eps file. I have converted it to PDF which gets rid of the thin white lines but creates detectable gradients in the color of the background. Even when imported to photoshop, the gradients are still there in defined color stripes. I have tried exporting from illustrator and pdf to tiff format but still get the gradients. Is there any way that the file can be converted without these gradients?
View 1 Replies View RelatedEverytime I try to open files created from Microstaion but saved as CAD it blue screens my computer! I have a newer laptop with Windows 7. However, an older computer in our office with Windows XP can open these files with no problem? Both computers have AutoCAD LT 2012.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI just switched from a PC (XP) to an iMac (Lion), and have gotten all of the pictures and catalog moved over. HOwever, none of the previews show. When I go to develop mode, picture opens, preview generated: But, when I then switch to another file, the preview seems to disappear and has to be regenerated each time.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWith Healing Brush set to Opacity 100 (Size ...,78) and an image from a D800. LR 4.1 RC1/RC2 makes bad grey circles see following images:
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Same with Clone Tool:
I uploaded the Camera Raw update for a new Nikon P7100 to Lightroom 3 on Mac 10,7,4, but when the pics come up they're extremely noisy. When converted from RAW to jpg the noise remains.
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No problem with JPGs. Same pics from the camera in RAW are fine on the Nikon viewer, so it seems to be a Lightroom mismatch. Â
i converted 1,900 images to dng from raw in lightroom to make shure the 2 weeks 62 hours of work croping & adjusting to be perfect to give bride & groom would be saved but there is no adjustments to them when i open photos where are all my adjustments. find xmp sidecar.
View 2 Replies View RelatedCan a Photoshop Elements 10 catalog be converted to Lightroom 4?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a big concern. How can all my develop presets (more than 300 now!) be converted correctly so that the changes that one of them applied to one pic in the 2010 PV are the _same_ changes the same preset applies in the 2012 PV?
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I'm not talking of Adobe LR presets (those that are installed by default and that come along with the LR itself) ... I'm quite sure Adobe has made a good job keeping them coherent with those of LR 3.x . I'm talking about of the huge numbers of largely available (on the net) presets .
I'd like to know if they will be converted _CORRECTLY_ with the 2012 PV so that they will work applying the _SAME_ _VISUAL_ changes as they did in LR 3.x .
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Of course I'm available to manually edit the old presets, if necessary but how? Logically, there would not need to be a new process version if all they did was put a new UI on the same controls the old process version contained. The new controls set values for new algorithms (fill light apparently the most obvious) that don't work like the old algorithms, and can't produce the same results, but I'm pretty sure that the same visual results are still reachable somehow!
And I still need the old presets working as usually they did as a steady coherent base for my retouch workflow...
After updating to LR 3.6, DNG Profile Editor does not display previews correctly, if base profile is one of the "new technology" camera specific profiles (for example the v4 profiles for Nikon). It looks like the previews are not properly converted to sRGB for display.
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I also noticed that if I decompile and then compile such a profile using dcptool of Chromasoft, the resulting profile generates very strange looking pictures.
My computer: MacBook Pro Retina16GB ram Software latest updated os Xlightroom 5 Camera canon 5D MIIÂ
When importing 300 raw pictures from the camera with LR5, the software crashes 10(!) times. I import the pictuers to a external HDD. The pictures where converted to the DNG-format.
When importing with the photoloader from mac os x everything went fine.
I just upgraded to LR4. I have a number of images that I converted to black and white using Silver Efex pro directly from Lightroom 3. I also have scans of images from black and white negatives in my catalog. When updating these images from process 2010 to process 2012 in LR4 each image becomes ever so slightly warmer (dirtier) on the screen. I noticed this because when updating the process I checked the review changes via before/after box. Some of the images where tweaked a bit in lightroom 3, others not. Strange thing is that when I run the cursor over the images the RGB values in the histogram are exactly the same in the before and after images.Â
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I would have to say the before looks cleaner and more neutral. I don't mind using process 2010 for previously worked on images; however, it does seem to defeat the purpose of upgrading.Â
How come my 16 bits RAW file is only 10 bits when converted to DNG? To me that sound like a loss in quality and possible post processing issues. Do I need to worry?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need just a bit of help with an image that I am trying to correct. Am having no problem with the color levels or the brightness/contrast. My problem is that after I have adjusted all the needed levels, brightness/contrast, etc I am stuck with an image full of what I call artifacts. I have tried everything I can think of to clear this up but obviously there is something I am missing. Hope someone is able to help me with this. The image that is posted is the original that has been untouched.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI received this .obj model, and when I import it into 3DS max with default settings, it results in strange artifacts around the neck area.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am creating 3D renders in PS CS6, and I am getting strange blocky artefacts in the renders. These appear on first pass and persist throughout the render. This has happened in the last 2 renders I have tried - I haven't used 3D for a while before this and I don't remember these before.
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By blocky artefacts I don't mean the JPG artefacts created by the forum's degrading of the uploaded image, but the light coloured rectangular blocks around the "s",On Win7x64 with latest PS CS6 update; NVidia 650M2GB on a Core i78GB.
Iinstalled version of CS4 v11 with no plugins and all settings at the defaults. If I go to Help > About Photoshop (and other menu selections) it causes a gray line to suddenly appear through the menu bar. If I then move my cursor over the minimize/maximize/close icons in the upper right, artifacts appear. .
View 2 Replies View Relatedi recently fixed a virus on my computer after a few days hard work tracking it down, and since then i have experienced no blue screens anymore, but i had a probel with explorer.exe where it used sometimes over 800MB of memory doing nothing. With more research and monitoring, i discovered its cause was actually a corupt music file on my desktop, and every time i refreshed my desktop, explorer's memory usage would jump up a few dozen more kb of memory.
This is now fixed. BUT, i still have one symptom of something wrong, that doesnt seem to go. My PC is back to being fast it seems now, and there is no noticable real lag between just opening folders like there was, but my desktop still has problems. If i close a full screen program, the computer doesn't exactly slow down, its just the program closes very slightly slower than normal because it closes from top to bottom.
MSN in particular, always leves it's title bar behind when closed. And if i click and drag on my desktop, the little dashed box it makes sticks and doesn't go away. All of this is resolved by a refresh of the desktop, but it doesn't explain why it is happening. Windows XP 32bitNVidia 9800GTX GPU4GB RAM
After using the Filter Extract and Magic Lassoo methods to erase a background of say a model, I usually end up with lots of artefacts.
I then use the backgound erase to remove these. But I find it very time consuming as they do not show up that well on the standard grey checkerboard background.
how to see artefacts easier ?
I have designed 18 "tee-signs" for our disc golf course. They print fine from Illustrator to various color printers. Now, we are getting them printed on a sticker which we will affix to a metal plate and post near the tees. The printer we are working with requested eps, so I saved a few in illustrator eps format and had him print them to test. They look great except for a few artifacts. For instance, for hole 8, around the "8" in upper left there is a very light shaded rectangle. This doesn't correspond to any shape that is buried in there. What it *should* look like is [URL] .... (note, this does NOT show the artifact). So, I printed the eps files myself, and I don't get those artifacts, but I do get a few random lines, and also the corners of the stroked fonts look like they are "selected", i.e. tiny circle.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a project and I'm painting a robot which is in a dark grey. I need to be able to paint in the shadows but Photoshop is going haywire with rendering the gradients. I'm simply using a round brush with 30% opacity and 20% flow. What I'm getting is some VERY ugly jaggedy stepping of tone.
My current project dimension are 5000 x 3000 px. I don't get what is going on. I have not changed blending modes, nor am I using any alternate modes on my brush. All the settings are pretty much out of the box, except for the global settings I mentioned above.
I'm a digital illustrator and I've been using PS for years and I've never run into this problem before. I'm runnin PS CS6 on Windows 7 pro with an NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GTX+ video card.
I'm having a weird problem in Photoshop CS6. I just installed it and I've been getting strange "artifacts" when I use the move tool. Also, when I work with text it displays poorly. It looks rough and not anti-aliased. I'm running Windows 7 64bit and have AMD 6850 GPU.
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I have some really good resoloution images for a large 8x4ft poster project. but one of my clients larger images (an important one) is just a 1000 x 1000px image @ 72dpi that has some artifacts which needs to occupy a approximate 25 inch square on the final print. I can't get a better quality image than this from the client at this time as they don't have it. what techniques can I use in photoshop to increase the print size while improving the final printed image. In the past, I sized up the image to the size needed and set the dpi from 72 to 300dpi (using "bicubic smoother"), add some surface blur, add monochromatic, uniform noise @ 2% +/- (to help smooth out the artifacts). with this image now, there are a lot of flat shiny surfaces where the artifacts are more noticable, etc. what kind of techniques would you use for this kind of job? (apart form hitting the client xD)
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