I'm having problems printing from Lightroom. I'm printing on a Kodak ESP C315 with Epson (not Kodak) premium quality paper. As per Kodak's instructions, I turned advanced dot placement mode off. The problem is - even after I've done this and set it as a default in the printer control panel (I'm using Windows 7 pro, by the way), Lightroom insists on turning it back on. Because I can print using the same settings perfectly happily from Photoshop.
Gimp is 2.6.11 (with the print bug fixed!?) Printer is Kodak ESP5200 All in One, operating in wireless mode. Op sys is Windows 7.
Symptom: any print request from GIMP results in the printer stuck at 0% spooled.
Going to other (native) Windoze applications for printing really sucks. The built in print function scales to whatever it thinks convenient. Windows Paint also does ambiguous scaling. All I want is an exact scale print ... and GIMP used to do this very well.
Clarification added: GIMP handles dimensions perfectly, and all I want is for it to print. I have no interest / desire to push the image in to some other application just to get it printed.
i cannot scan photos from my kodak printer from photshop..it is reading an old printer that is no longer installed...kodak states it is with the software from adobe?
I have PSE 10. My OS is Windows 7. My printer is a Canon MG6120. The default print tray selected for the computer and all programs is the Cassette. It was selected under Devices and Printers (path: Control PanelHardware and SoundDevices and Printers). All my programs accept the cassette as the default paper source or Tray, except for PSE 10.  In all other programs, I manually change the Paper Source for rear tray selection through the Printer Properties dialogue window. However, the paper source for my PSE 10, after manually changing from Tray: Rear Tray to Tray: Cassette, resets back to Tray: Rear Tray after printing and even after using the Change Settings and Advanced Settings dialogue windows. see the image insert.  I generally print on bond paper. The rear tray is normally closed. If I'm want to print on photo paper, I open the rear tray and insert the photo paper. I verify that I have the printer set to use the rear tray. After printing on photo paper (from any program) I reset the paper source back to cassette.  My questions are, "How do I correct or override PSE 10's automatic resetting of the paper source to the Rear Tray. How do I convince PSE 10 to accept the front-loading cassette as the default paper source?"  PSE10 also insists on reverting to Landscpe orientation. Please see the image insert.  My questions are, "How do I correct or override PSE 10's automatic resetting of the paper Orientation to Landscape. How do I convince PSE 10 to accept Portrait as the default orientation?"
I'm new to lightroom and heres what happened. Â I edited a batch of photos, exported them and .xmp files were created in Lightroom Export folder. Later copied the .xmp files out of the Export and and pasted them into the main folder of the cr2 files. Â When I opened LR again, there was a prompt and I messed with it. The result now is that the developed settings are the defaults instead of the unedited/tweaked photos.
I upgrade to lightroom 5 from lightroom 3. Now all of the develop defaults are "0" for new imported images. In lightroom 3, it would apply default settings at import. In addition, all of my presets are not adjusting exposure/blacks/whites etc like they used to. I am using a Canon XSi. Do I just have something unchecked somewhere?
Is there a way to create more color labels than just the ones that LR defaults to? Here's my use so you'll know what I'm trying to do. I use a different color for the "model" photo of a particular insect family. This allows me to search using this color and use the photos as my "easy cheat sheet" for making IDs. Since there are more than 5 insect families, I need more color options.
I have set the camera default to a single image in Develop tab all zeroed out then save the profile. Restart Lightroom but the the images are always auto exposed with extreme Exposure ect... Â I tried to revert back to defaults but this also does not work and all my images end up Auto exposed. Â How do I clear this from Lightroom 4.4?
Capture Sharpness  There are three distinct phases: Capture Sharpening, Creative Sharpening and Output sharpening  With regards to Capture Sharpening I’ve noticed that when I import a CR2 file into Lightroom 3.6 there is an Adobe pre-set in the Develop Module. Is this a form of Capture Sharpening default?  Sharpening  Amount: 25 Radius: 1.0 Detail: 25  Noise Reduction  Luminance: 0 Colour: 25 Detail: 50
I am looking to set the default drives used for importing images. Â I do not store my images on the C: drive which Lightroom seems to default to. I want to set it to use an external drive, drive F:.
Have just got new PC with Windows 7 OS. LR 4.1 64bit is installing insofar as I can see (from purchased disc/DVD) but not responding when I try to open it. When I click on desktop shortcut or try to access from Start Menu it defaults to Task-bar. I have not been asked for serial numbers etc. either.
Ok I have asked this question to adobe & still have not been addressed.My client requires a specific crop for his website.1496 x 1000 pixels..If you try to put this into the aspect ratio the image defaults to 2x3/4x6, presumably because it is so near to the 2x3 crop.This problem only started in LR3?
In the past I keyword in photo mechanie and then synchronize in Lightroom and it brings in the keywords, but leaves the pictures as they are, which usually is at the imported stage with the camera default setting applied. Â However now when I do it it simply imports the keywords and wipes all previously applied settings including the camera default settings that I used on import.
I have been using LR each and every day I have never once utilized any of the four default terms cooked-into the 'Metadata' Library Filter ('Date', 'Camera', 'Lens', 'Label').  Is there a way for me to set up new metadata search terms as defaults so I don't have to putz w/changing the same-old-same-old each and every time I open this filter?
I have a set of Lightroom Print templates that I am trying to use, that are all for a 4x6 print. I can't get it to work because my page setup in the print module defaults to letter size. When I go in and change the page setup, it messes up the template and it gets all jumbled. Then when I go on to the next template, it switches back to letter size again. I want to create and hold a 4x6 canvas so these templates can either be saved to a 4x6 .jpg or printed on 4x6 paper. I know I can save a printer and page layout as part of a template by clicking the "update settings" once I have it all as i want it, but I can't even get that far because it messes up the template as soon as I change the page settings to 4x6. How do I get the canvas to 4x6 on templates that are already created so I can save them as a 4x6 .jpg or print to 4x6 paper?  I even just installed a printer that only prints 4x6 to see, but again, when I change the page layout it completely messes up the template.
In LR4, you clicked, held down, and dragged your cursor to select a custom target source point to sample from... Clearly with the big update to the Spot removal tool in LR5, this action has a different effect... So in order to mimic that old action, you have to hold down Command (Mac) while clicking and dragging to select from a custom source point.  This issue I'm having is that when doing this, the Clone/Heal option always defaults to clone. I would say that 90% of the time, I'd rather have it acting as a 'Heal' instead. Having to then go and click 'Heal' to update this fact on every single spot removal is highly time intensive to say the least, when you are editing thousands of images, in my case, at a time.  Am I missing something, or is it possible to change this Default to 'Heal' instead of clone? I like that LR4 would leave the Clone/Heal option wherever you last set it, and you had to manually change it in order to use it differently.Â
I'm currently using AutoCad Electrical 2010 and we just got a new printer. Is there any way to map all of my electrical drawngs to that printer without opening each drawing and selecting the new printer?
I just downloaded and installed LR5 successfully to my iMac (2012) running OS 10.8.4. Everything seems to be working fine (LR4 catalog converted, Import works fine, etc.) EXCEPT printing to the same HP printer I use with LR4. When I press the Print button after setting things up, the bar on the upper left corner proceeds quickly, the message Task Completed appears (and goes away quickly), BUT...nothing happens on the printer. It just does not get the print job sent to it. The iMac reports that the printer is Idle, there is no record of a job being received. Â I checked the printer, it works fine. I can print from Photoshop without a gltch. So, comunication between the computer and the printer does not seem to be the issue.
I'd like to use printer color management in LR4. My printer is not in the list. Where do I get ICC profiles for an HP Photosmart 8250 printer and "HP Advanced" paper?
For, my printer, we need to use the Adobe RGB colorspace. But maybe the printer is even more limited in some areas than that color space. Is there a way to know?
I have a number of printer colour profiles in the 'System32SpoolDriversColour' folder but I can't see them from Lightroom's Develop module (although the display profiles do appear).
how to change the printer associated with PSP or add another printer? I have 2 printers installed on Windows7 but the only one I get when I try to print from PSP is the wide format printer & no option to add another. Is printing from Windows Photo Viewer my only option?
I have been emailed the file of a painting by someone (on the other side of the world) who needs me to print some good quality copies of it on my R3880. On one edge of this is a strip titled 'Kodak color control patches' which is to enable me to obtain a good colour match on my reproductions. Any easy to understand click-by-click instructions as to how I use these patches. Also do I need any further software or hardware? I am using Photoshop CS5 with Windows.
I have some old Kodak PhotoCD files (.PCD) that I would like to open in PS CS5. After searching the KB and forums for info, I found the file "Photo CD.8BI" in the Goodies folder on my CS3 disk and copied it into C:Program FilesAdobeAdobe Photoshop CS5Plug-insFile Formats. Unfortunately, PS CS5 still will not open the .PCD files.  I could install CS3 again and use the Photo CD.8BI plug-in there, but I'd rather not install CS3 if I don't have to.  Any way to open/convert .PCD files in CS5, or is the .PCD format so old that it can't be done? (I'm using Windows XP Home.)
The photograph I am working on has both a Kodak Grey Scale and a Colour strip attached, however the values as they appear on screen are not correct. How can I correct the colour profile to match the Kodak standard?
Since upgrading to CS3 I am no longer able to access photos stored on a Kodak Photo Disc. The Photo Disc format is pretty dated at this point, however my company has hundreds of discs containing professional photography stored in this format and we need access to the images.
The Kodak Photo CD seems to be obsolete these days, but I have a number of old Photo CDs from years ago, so I have an interest in converting the files to some other format in the best way possible. In trying to do so with Photoshop CS2, I've noticed some issues:
1. Highlights are washed out. This is not so bad when the highlights are in the sky and I just lose some cloud detail, but it's quite unpleasant when the highlights are in people's faces. When I try converting the files with Paint Shop Pro, results look somewhat inferior in other ways, but there's more detail in the highlights, so this seems to be a Photoshop problem.
2. Photoshop provides the option of 16-bit colour when importing from Photo CD, which looked good to me, so I used it. I've only just realized that, as far as I can tell, the Photo CD images contain only 8-bit colour information, so I've just been wasting space by saving large TIFF files with 16-bit colour. I wonder why Photoshop provides this useless option! Or does it have some purpose unknown to me?
Has anyone found a good way of converting Photo CD images that doesn't wash out the highlights?
