I did a studio shoot recently and all 400+ images were properly exposed. But at one point during the shoot I must have hit a setting on my camera that under-exposed by 1 stop or so about nine frames. Is there a way in Lightroom 4 to bring those nine frames up to the same exposure value as the others. I was shooting in Canon camera RAW.
View 2 RepliesIs it possible to add a shoot name to photo's that have already been imported, I can't see an option to do this in rename photo's
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am attempting to shoot with both of the above cameras tethered to lightroom, but when I swap cameras it won't shoot as the display on the camera states that it is busy. So is it possible to shoot with two cameras attached to lightroom at the same time?
View 4 Replies View RelatedUsing Lightroom to shoot tethered to a Leica M9?how to do it?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI was under the false impression that Lightroom 5 would work with my Nikon D90. This does not seem to be true..
View 2 Replies View RelatedCan I shoot tethered into Lightroom 4.2 with my Nikon D3X?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI need to shoot in tethered capture mode and have found that my D90 in not fully supported in this mode. A D7000 is fully supported, but will cost somewhat more than I had hoped to spend. The new D3200 would be an excellent match for our needs (dental photography). My question: Do this camera is supported in tethered capture and if not, does Adobe plan on adding it as a compatible camera anytime soon?
View 1 Replies View RelatedIt seems that even with a calibrated screen and across multiple print labs and colour profiles, my prints will always come out about a third stop darker than what looked good on the screen. I attribute this to the screen emitting light vs. the page only reflecting it. My question: is there an efficient way to give an equal exposure boost across an entire shoot? I don't want to sync a specific exposure setting. I want to make virtual copies for print and then add maybe 0.3 exposure to all files, on top of their current setting.
The only way I can think do to it now is to export 16-bit tiffs which will reset the exposure to 0.00 for those files, and then sync them all at +0.3 exposure. This is really inefficient for time and hard drive space. Even a preset will only set a specific overall exposure setting. I want a preset that adds exposure to the existing number.
I am a mac user with 10.7 OS. I recently upgraded to LR5.3 and thought to try out the tethered shooting feature with my Nikon D300. In the ‘Tethered Capture Settings’ window it shows the naming format as a DNG file. I only import image files in their native ‘NEF’ format though I am aware of the advantages of ‘DNG’ files.Anyway I noticed the captured images were named as ‘nef’ files with its standard sidecar xmp file. Note the lower case lettering for 'nef'. I am not able to import these files to my external HD because these images were grayed out in the Import window. However if I changed the format names to upper casing, NEF, these images are visible for import.
How can I avoid the extra step of having to the change the casing of the letters and have the captured images in the tethered shoot all have the correct upper casing instead?
I just upgraded to LR 4.2 and have lost the ability to shoot tethered with my Canon 5D. I reloaded LR 3 and everything works fine, so this eliminates a bad camera or tether cord. Something has happened in the upgrade!
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to practice shooting tethered for an upcoming shoot. I am unable to get Lightroom and my Canon 70D to connect. I receive the dialog box shown below several seconds after attempting to connect. I went through all the steps on the "Troubleshooting tethered capture in Lightroom" and can shoot tethered using Canon's software. I am using Lightroom 5.3 on a MacBookPro 13 inch with 16 gb ram running system 10.9.1
View 1 Replies View RelatedWay to import the raw file when I shoot jpeg and raw at the same time.. and then develop those files ? Also did there used to be a setting during development for "lights" ?
canon 5d canon 70 to 200 2.8 L
Win 7 64bit
Lightroom 4.1
Photoshop CS5
The Filename Template Editor has different options depending where it is opened from
If it is opened from the Import menu there is an option to add "Shoot Name".
If opened from the Library>Rename Photos there is no option to add "Shoot Name".
Furthermore, if one invokes a preset by the Library>Rename Photo route, that was created during Import with a "Shoot Name", then the "Shoot Name" part doesn't show up in the preset.
Shooting tethered only seems to allow me to store the images in lightroom, not on my camera - really would like to do both
View 1 Replies View RelatedHas it become a possible option to automatically grab the Date-of-shoot (instead of the DAYToday) when renaming files (that should show shooting- date) in LR5?
View 4 Replies View RelatedSo, I have (or will have) many different photos of different objects: a book, a lamp, a cat, etc. These photos were taken at different times of day with different lighting... I am putting all of these pictures in the same picture, so I need the lighting to be the same, or as close as possible.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a bracketed series of a landscape shot from Rocky Mountain Park that varies by about 3-4 stops. In the lightest the shaded areas of the foreground are great but everything else, especially the sky and distant mountains, are blown out. In the darkest, the highlights are just right but the shadowed areas are far too dark.
The scans are from 6x7 Velvia chromes.
I have made a pretty good print by combining parts of three of the scans by cutting, pasting, and blending them. But there is a halo in one very difficult area and that's a very tedious project.
I have tried the HDR but Photoshop says the chromes don't have enough exposure range for HDR.
how you would go about adjusting an image in photoshop so it apperars overexposed and under exposed, so I can then use them to complie a hdri map in hdrshop.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI don't seem to be able to use my Photoshop CS5 and Camera RAW to process my in-camera multiple exposure RAW photos. When imported, they have a reddish cast to them. This is not happening in other programs nor with regular RAW photos. Only multiple exposures made in my camera.
View 3 Replies View RelatedIf I have two exposures of the same shot, i.e over and under exposed, how to combine the two so as to get most dynamic image possible. I have elements 2.
View 5 Replies View RelatedIs it possible in GIMP to equalize the intensity of different pictures? So that the pictures have the same brightness and that the color curves (histogram) are identical?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have multiple exposures of the same photo that I'd like to combine into one image showing the specific details of all. I've been messing around with layer modes and opacity sliders but can't quite get exactly what I want.
These are a a couple of the images I'm trying to combine:
What I'd like the final image to show is the pronounced shadow behind the railing in the first exposure and the lit up details of the hallway in the lower left corner of the second exposure, if there's a way to achieve this without having to draw layer masks and such.
I imported a piece of art into Illustrator and I want all parts of it to be equal and symmetrical. What would be the best way to start going about this?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am using VS4. Is there a way to equalize audio music tracks? I know that there is a "normalize audio " option just prior to burning but that is for videos only. For whatever reason the last two videos I have made have varying audio volumes on different music.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm using PS 6.0 and I've been wondering how to make the color ranges/histograms etc. equal between two different images.
I'm making a birthday card, I have a backgound picture where I want to merge the face of the birthday hero, but obviously plain merge would look rather clumsy.
So I need to make the two "pictures look the same", like if the pictures were taken in similar conditions. All the grains, color depths, noise, saturation etc....
Is there an easy way to process bracketed exposures in Elements 9 or will I need the full Photoshop?
View 1 Replies View RelatedIn Inventor 2012 user has ability to change the material properties globally.
All parts using certain material will follow the changes made to properties and written to single library. It is clear and predictable.
In Inventor 2013 material properties belong to individual file.
When changes were done to appearance properties of a single part there could be situation when the same material parts in the assembly could have different appearance.
Here is the fact I do not understand and it is contradict to actual reality since the same material with the same standard must look absolutelly the same when switched to Master view.
Seems like to make parts look the same or to change the appearance I should click on each single file and make the same changes to each file.
I do not intend to change the appereance properties in single file on purpose to make problems to myself but I am sure I will take somebody else part and it will be changed due unnecessary reflection or other too much realistic things added in 2013. So finally I will get some sort of parrot collored assembly without clear and most importand easy way to make an order.
So I wish I could equalize all same material parts in apearance view. I do not count the way of clicking each file.
I've had the initial idea of using my camera to take a reasonably good composition, with moderately good lighting etc, but I'd like to use Photoshop to adjust and tweak the image.
As up until now, I've done just transport (in particular, aviation and aircraft) action shots of transport and still objects... However, not much in the way of human photography.
How to edit a whole group of shots in CS4. Like 300 surfing shots at basically the same aperture, lens magnification...time of day. Of course, toss a bunch that have no punch...leaves several hundred files to be edited. At 3 frames per second, I am overwhelmed (but secretly loving my new Canon sports camera)
Most of my shots the surfer is "dead center" and in focus..but too far removed at 400mm even! So I painstakingly crop it up a bunch...surfers like to see their faces....is that me? or is that Kelly Slater! Then a "ton" of adjustments to each file....but....mostly the exact same edits?
Here is an edited surf photo...done, one by one.
I shoot in RAW but for some strange reason Elements 10 has started to convert the files to JPEG. For example, if I open the file in iPhoto the file extension is shown as RAW. If I then import the file into Elements Organizer and then subsequently try to edit that file it shows the file extension as JPEG! Previously a RAW file would automatically open for editing in Camera Raw so I have clearly altered something somewhere!
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhat is the effect or process to, for example, ensure that normally washed out bright background on, say, a sunny beach, has same depth and contrast as the darker subject in the foreground? It is an unnatural state since your eye and most cameras will adjust to one extreme or the other.
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