GIMP :: Liquid Rescale Not Responding In OS Maverick
Dec 7, 2013
I just installed gimp 2.8.10 for os maverick. But when I tried the plugin "liquid rescale" i got the following message:
"Plug-In 'Liquid rescale' left image undo in inconsistent state, closing open undo group"
and
"Plug-in liep vast: "gimp-lqr-plugin"
(/Applications/Gimp.app/Contents/Resources/lib/gimp/2.0/plug-ins/gimp-lqr-plugin)"
as well as this report from apple :
I have been having some problems with win 7 64 bit. Just installed Gimp 2.8.10 and tried using liquid rescale and I get a WARNING appear. The plug-in interface allows a new mask to be added but when clicking OK it does nothing and closes the plug-in.
When you try to rescale a layer using the Rescale Tool with a layer mask active, it scales of the mask, likewise if you select the layer it will scale the layer. Can I select both the layer and layer mask and scale the layer, thus it keeps the layer mask showing the desired masked area only. As the only way I can see currently is by applying the layer mask on the layer and then you can see the layer/s below to get the scaling that is desired. But I would like to keep the layer mask active for editing after scaling.
Is it possible to "virtually" rescale layers in the Gimp? Or is this planned? Because it would be an awesome feature.
What I mean is this: When you "virtually" rescale a layer, everything behaves as if it were a normal layer rescale operation, but internally the GIMP remembers the original image size. This means if I change my mind later and want to resize again (make it bigger for example), I don't lose quality. Or is this maybe already be possible somehow and has evaded me?
Discovered gimp tonight however I seem to be facing the same problem. I am creating a new logo for work, I will go through the details in a moment, but each time I increase the scale size and it visually increases on screen, when it prints it is the same small size. The origins of the image are from Microsoft Office through SmartArt, I created what was needed, took a print of the screen moved into paint to open then cropped and saved it as a jpg. I then dragged it into gimp. I should also mention that within the original SmartArt (it is a circle of 4 globes) there is another jpg of our logo. I just don't understand why it is not printing the larger image on my screen.
Last month, I've been trying GIMP. It works fine, 2.8 one. But, yesterday, I just wanted to open it, actually the startup loads well, but somehow, stopped while attempt to loading fonts, so, I force to close it with task manager. And opening it again. My gimp startup doesn't load earlier, and suddenly loading fonts once the startup opened up. A little moment, my Gimp was not responding, and make the whole WINDOWS NOT RESPONDING. The only way I can, is just shutting it down, forced it, by plugging off the power source
little note, I'm running Gimp 2.8 inside of 32 bit windows 7.
I am a new user to Gimp and have gone out and watched many videos regarding how to use the different tools. I have recently been toying with the gradient tool on some text. Everything worked perfectly at first, but recently it seems to not be responding. Here are the steps that I take:
Open a new file with transparent background Create a text box Type in the text and adjust the font size and style Go under layer, transparency, and select alpha to selection Select gradient, select colors, select Dark Only mode Drag my line from left to right across the text
When I used this exact technique last week it worked just fine, now, it either does nothing at all or will only respond only if I change mode from Dark Only to Normal.
Just got my Wacom draw tablet working with GIMP....but now I have a whole new set of issues GIMP will not respond to either the Wacom pen or mouse then stops responding to my main keyboard and main mouse ., lets me draw a little on one layer and then just stops working. Today when I tried to configure the tablet settings in the tool box it didn't read the tablet at all. And yes the tablet was plugged in. I think I am starting to hate GIMP.
After installing Maverick osx, many dng do not open and I get the message:
Could not complete your request because the file format module can not parse the file.
The error occurs randomly on files that have always worked well.I already tried to reinstall Photoshop CC and Bridge but the problem remains.What can I do?
I use an iMac late 2012, 16gb of ram, graphics card GTX 680MX and disk fusion.
After Updating OS X (Maverick) Illustrator CS6 is not able to open .svg and .svgz files with SVG text under the condition, that the fonts not installed on the system. Is there any solution available to open such files without installing the fonts?
I would to like to do animation through liquid without saving every single frame(Or is there a way that i can hide the circle that transforms the picture?).
I'm coming from corel draw to autocad. I'll be making 2D templates for consturction. I make the molds so they're inside out. anyways... I'm a full newbie in acad so I had some questions
how do I scale the background so that it's not in hundreds of feet? I work with very small small. usually 96x48 inches. sometimes I'll draw circles with about radius of 100-300 but then will cut them to get only about 60 degrees of it...
How to rescale the background so it's within my range and not in a size that's meant to design a whole house?
My dock and top menus have completely disappeared in Adoby LR (both 4 and the new 5) and I cannot get them to stay permenantly. Super annoying and this only happened after my Maverick upgrade. I contacted Apple, but the issue is ONLY with Lightroom -- not any other program, so Apple thinks it's an Adobe bug.
I just downloaded Apple's new operating system "OS X Version 10.9" (Maverick). When I tried to open Adobe After Effects CS6 (which I purchased within the last year), immediately the following message came up (it wouldn't even open):
"You can't use this version of the application 'Adobe After Effects CS6' with this version of OS X.
You have 'Adobe After Effects CS6' 11.0."
When I googled this problem, I discovered that I could download "Adobe After Effects CC 12.0.1 Update." When I did this, the following message came up when I clicked "AdobePatchInstaller" :
"Update Failed
Updates could not be applied
This patch is not applicable for you. Pleas check for updates from the Help menu in your product to see a list of the latest updates available.
If the problem persist, contact customer support for further assistance."
The problem with those instructions, is that I can't even open the application to access the "Help menu" inside.
For the layout of my site, I am going to have a GUI ( a big I, header-one center column-footer) and I am trying to figure out how to tile(and code) the sliced-up image properly so that the GUI will "expand and shrink" horizontally and vertically on various screen resolutions.
Ive been experimenting (unsuccessfully) to reproduce this effect. Originally the photographer would take a polaroid photo, and use a hairdryer to heat up the emulsion a bit, then using a pin he could "paint" with the liquid emulsion.
Then once PS became popular he started using it for the majority of the effect.
He may use a custom plugin / filter. Im not well versed on whats available but I am open to using 3rd part software if its needed.
I am working on a tut and it calls for the use of a Pixel Mask.However, once I get through it I plan to use the resulting image at various sizes.I am creating the image w/a canvas size of 425px by 200px and the object itself is roughly 155px by 45px (give or take a pixel or so).
I then plan to scale it down to various sizes and so my question is will the Pixel Mask cause a problem with artifacts and interpolated bluriness?ie, will saving for the web at smaller sizes cause a problem with the clarity?
Is it possible to rescale a lot of objects without simultaneously rescaling the distance between them? I have about 500 circles, all .3cm diameter, that I'd like to change to .4 diameter, while retaining the positions of their centres?
I receive a 1 kilometer wall plane, because its so long the architect change the aspect ratio x10 times less the real length. Now to engineer it I need to rescale it to be 1 to 1.
If I use the method of converting it to a block by changing the X property, all the text goes massy.
I don’t know how to tackle it. Is there a way to rescale the geometry without effecting the text on the way? If I didn’t mention it….i need the text to be in the perspective position so I can’t just hide it.
I have updated my MAC to Maverick and Adobe CC and all was fine till the main screen disapeared but tool bar remains. I unistalled, re-installed...rebooted, and spent three hours on the phone with New Delhi trying to reset Java, permissions etc...still nothing. how to get the screen back?
I have shot tethered through various versions of Lightroom with various cameras with mixed results. With each new version of LR, it seems that shooting tethered becomes more prone to crashes and in LR 5, I have found that the transfer of images is so slow as to be unusable. I recently had a shoot where I used LR 5 for the first time. The transfer of images was so slow that, after trying disk doctor to repair the disk and restarting the computer several times, I finally switched back to LR 4 and found that the transfer, while still prone to its odd temperaments, was much much faster than LR 5.
While LR 4 seems to be much better than LR 5 for shooting tethered, it is still so temperamental. If the camera sits for more than a few minutes without activity, LR no longer accepts images from the camera. I then have to shut down LR and restart it, making sure to have the camera off until LR is relaunched and tethering is turned on once again. If I do it in the wrong order, it doesn't work. During a shoot, it is maddening to have to constantly restart LR 4.
Looking for making LR 4 less temperamental and LR 5 functional when tethering?
Does someone know how to create realistic liquid and foam effect on pictures. It should looks like they are real, because I will use them on 3D renders - pictures. I would like to add water or milk on my 3D renders. It should look like it was spilled and there should be drops too.
i'm trying to create a liquid effect then making it a fluorescent colour on Photoshop CS4 Extended. Kind of like a line that shoots our then slowly drops down and hits something and turns in to liquid on impacts... hard to explain.
What im trying to achieve is something similar to the pen tool where you draw your path and stroke it then using the Outer glow and inner glow to give it a Lightsaber look but in a form of a liquid. I was thinking of using the Liquify tool but wasn't sure if that would actaully work.
The bottom liquid drains through the vertical hole at the bottom. As this falls the liquid above falls with it until flow stops when all the lower liquid has gone and the hole is blocked. This then leaves the original volume of the top liquid in the bottom of the "dish".
I have considered a few options:
Creating a particle flow with a blobmesh to simulate the liquids.
Creating a "finished position" object for the top liquid and morphing between the two.
Simply moving the solid pieces down during the animation (as I need to get this out really quick)
Two questions:
What is the best method of simulating this?
What would be the best way of achieving a ripple effect on the top liquid surface and the interface between the two?
i create a pattern with the pattern maker, fill a square with the pattern swatch and rescale it, i always get thin lines inbetween the tiles. It is definately correctly aligned, and when i print it, you can see them too. I tried as well expanding the object, to enable "align to pixel grid" in the transform panel, I tried to uncross "anti-aliased artwork" under general preferences, i don't know what else I could do.
I'm trying to make a logo that has a really cool metal effect, not just text. I want to be able to make a 3d shape, that looks like it's made of melting metal, or some other cool metal effect. Then I want to be able to put a text logo on it that looks like it's embossed into the metal.
