3ds Max :: Cameras And Daylight System Grayed Out?
Sep 7, 2011
I am not an expert user of this program and just jumped from 2008 to 2012. I model in Autocad Architecure and link my file, and apply textures in Max, where I create my renderings. I was plugging along today, and all of the sudden noticed that I cannot select my cameras, or daylight system- they are grayed out in the top view, and cannot be selected any other view. I can insert a new camera, but it is immediately grayed out and not selectable. I can however use the select camera through viewport, and can change parameters in the modify window, but cannot select them to move. My select filter is set to "all"...
When I try and add a custom background map to the MR Physical Sky, the map takes up the whole environment removing the ground and horizon making my model look like is floating in the sky. Before I used to do this and the custom map would just replace the sky texture with my own cloud image. I've attached an image of what I'm trying to get which is basically my own clouds image as the sky but still retain the ground plain the MR Daylight System gives you.
I'm coming up with a strange problem with some of my renders (see attached, the white lines around edge). This is using a daylight system, I used a HDR map for the environment and though maybe that caused the problem, but it did with two other maps in the environment channel as well.
Gamma 2.2, Gamma 1.8. Linear workflow, exposure, input - output etc. how NOT to get washed out images using sun&sky. For example, you use daylight system to render a car with carpaint, the carpaint mat is washed out. No matter what settings are used. Some renders look as if each A&D material stayed nicely saturated and crisp while most don't. I know that the daylight system is supposed to mimic real lighting conditions, but there has to be a way to preserve a nice rich crisp A&D color on renders.
I am using a daylight system in 3ds max, but unfortunately there is a black horizon line that I can't get to go away. I tried taking the physical scale in the Environment tab up to 100,000 but that just made the black horizon white. It blended a little better but it still obvious. Is there a way to make that go away or disappear?
I've currently got a daylight system in place with an "mr physical sky" shader, but I've also got a 360° sky panorama with clouds.
Is there anyway of getting them both working together? I've set the sun so it appears in the right place in my scene, but the sky is too empty. Putting the Sky panorama blocks the sun. I've tried putting the map on a Geosphere with a circular UVW map modifier and have tried adjusting the opacity but I can't work it out.
I am attempting to shoot with both of the above cameras tethered to lightroom, but when I swap cameras it won't shoot as the display on the camera states that it is busy. So is it possible to shoot with two cameras attached to lightroom at the same time?
just shot a interview using two cameras and now I am a little lost to edit them in Video Studio X6, how I can add a new track for video so I can mark and split those sources in the same way? I cant find a way to work with onbe source at Video track and another in the Overlay track... I need to sync both files and do the cuts for the show to work better.
Is there anyway to make 3Ds Max automaticalliy render from certain cameras i specify?
lets sasy i want to render from camera 1, 2 , then 3. And i wont be using my PC for a long time, can 3Ds Max do this alone...like some kind of a render queue??
Application: 3Ds Max 2010 GPU: ATI HD6970 RAM: 8GB OS: Windows 7 64-bit DX: 11
i am thinking of buying a new camera but am concerned with some cameras not being compatable with the photoshop elements 11. Im looking at a Nikon D70.
I'm running the latest version of LR on Mac OSX, shooting tethered.I'm product shooting, I need to shoot 1 shot from the front, then from above, 1 shot from the front, then from above, and so on, i'll have 2 cameras in position.
My question - can i tether both cameras into LR at the same time.
I recently tried to compare images taken with a Nikon D300 (12.3 mgapixel-small sensor), D800 (36 megapixels-large sesnsor) and D4 (16.1 megapixels - large sensor) using the LR4.1 Compare function with not very satisfactory results (iMac 27, Lion). I took 4 images each of the same subject with a 60mm f2.8 Nikon lens on a tripod at F8, at 200,400,800 and 1600 ISO and imported the images into LR. Selecting images of the same ISO and using the Compare function, they all looked pretty much the same so I viewed them at 1:1 and 2:1 trying to get a closer look at the fine details to check for sharpness and noise. Regardless of how I cropped the images, I couldn't get any of them from the different cameras to be the same size on the screen in the closeup views. I presume the combination of sensor size and megapixel capture on the sensors caused this problem but I don't have the technical expertise to either understand (or care). Is there a way in LR to overcome these differences?
I have a main camera A, which also has the main sound on the primary track, running all the time.I have secondary cameras B, C, etc, which have alternate views, but not main sound, maybe only local pickup. They turn on and off all the time - its just a bunch of short clips of alternate angles or views. The alternate views could also be from stills.
I want to keep the main timeline from A running along the primary track, keep the sound going, but pickup/cut-in the video overlays from the alternate cameras (B, C) and maybe (optionally) mix-in their audio on top, like if someone asked a question from the audience, but mostly it will be zoom-in's of slides and things.
I sorta want to be able to bring everything into the project so I can watch and select the trim and cut-in points, move things around slightly, get the timing just right. Turn tracks on and off so I can see the isolated selections, drag them up and down the timeline, exchange clips, etc. I don't really want to separate the sound on the primary, because it needs to be kept in sync all the way through.
how to do these basic editing operations (using X3 or X4?)
I've got to sort out photos taken from multiple cameras by Date and Time Taken so I can renumber them 1 to xxxxx in the order the shots were taken. Have done this a few times but have completely forgotten how.
I know the Browser can sort by Date Created and Date Modified but that does not relate to Date Taken.
I have a scene that I have multiple cameras going round inside a building. Each camera is exploring a different area of the building. They're attached to paths that all start from the same place but then obviously go off in different directions.
The problem I'm having is aligning the first frame so they all start off in exactly the same position. Coordinate wise; the camera, and 1st vertex of path are the same, but I'm guessing as the path is a different shape, the trajectory is different.
How do you sort by captured time all the photos that came from 2 different camera but they're in the same folder? I've tried to use view -> Sort by -> capture time. But all the files from Canon got sorted first, and then all the files from Sony got sorted second. Two cameras time has been synced prior to shooting.
I'm currently trying to match six cameras and all their different lenses to produce identical images and I need fine tuning my workflow on making the camera profiles.
Me and my team are shooting weddings. We have Nikon D3s, Nikon D3, 2x Canon 5D mk III, Canon 1D mk 3, Canon 5D mk II with 17 lenses and I'm in the middle of the process of matching their colors so when we shoot together I don't go crazy trying to match the white balance between all the cameras in Lightroom.
The issue I have is that I managed to make all the colors, contrast, saturation and brightness for all cameras and lenses on daylight shots identical (with minimal differences) but shots under 2800k light are very different.
I bought a 24 patch color checker and took photos with all cameras - once with a 2800k halogen lamp and then with a 5500k strobe (Nikon SB-800 @ 1/16 power). I shot in RAW. The exposures are good - no blown highlights or unexposed parts. In Camera raw I applied the "Camera neutral" color profile for all cameras. I exported the shots in DNG. For each camera and lens I imported the halogen and flash lit file into DNG Profile editor.In the chart section I created a color table for the "2850 K only" halogen lit shot and then for the flash lit shot choosing "6500 K only".
So far so good. The colors are good but to achieve them for the different cameras or lenses I need to input different color temperatures and tint. What I want is to set identical color temperature for all photos (say 5500k) and to get identical colors regardless of camera or lens.
So the next step I took to get at least the daylight shots identical is to play with the "White balance calibration" under the "Color matrices" tab. For instance - DNG Profile editor determines that the flash shot should be set to 6050k +8 tint. I move the "white balance calibration" sliders until I reach the numbers I want above the flash shot (5500k). Because the colors shift I press the "Create color table" button again. My goal is to show the program that I want these (calibrated) colors to be achieved at 5500k +0 tint and not 6050k +8 tint. I get the result I want but that affects the 2850k shot. If I readjust the "white balance calibration" sliders for the 2850k shot and use "create color table" again, that ruins the 6500k adjustment.
So using this workflow I get either the daylight shots right or the tungsten lit shots, but not both.
So in short my question is - How do I create proper profiles that produce identical colors among all cameras and lenses under all white balance settings?
I started to get problems with Lightroom not recognizing RAW files from my Fuji XE-1 and Canon 5D Mark 3 cameras but I thought it was a problem with RC. After downloading some files today in 4.4 without a problem I encountered the same error message (unable to inport listed RAW files) again. The files open fine in Bridge.
I created a file from revit, imported in 3ds max and created animated cameras. I needed to change location in my 3d space of every element so in order to do that I had to group the objects of the scene, rotating and moving them from point A to point B, cameras included.
The problem now is that, if I ungroup my cameras their original movement has changed. I need to keep the original path and I'm trying to avoid rebuilding the cameras. Is there a way to do that?
I recently used a second shooter for the first time at a wedding I shot, and I have tried in vain to get them to be sorted in Lightroom using Capture Time. I've changed the times to match up already, and that worked, but when I sort those picture by capture time, it only sorts camera 1 by capture time, followed by camera 2. It will not sync the two cameras times together.
I accidentally combined my Canon 30D 2011-12 folder with my Hp 850 2011-12 folder, now one camera's images show missing, and so does the folder for the missing images. Since they have all been keyworded and developed, how can I recover the appropriate ones back into the right missing folder?
Is there an easy way (program) to prevent duplicate file names when transferring pics via card readers from multiple Canon EOS devices which all have the same filename format "IMG-xxxx". Specifying downloads to a dated folder name exacerbates the problem when combining the pics into a common folder at a later time. We have been manually renaming but this is becoming burdensome. Was wondering if PSP X4 has a front end downloading program that could handle this.
I have a multicam sequence that I'm trying to play and switch camera angles as its playing. It works fine using my mouse to select between angles, but the keyboard shortcuts do not work. Mine are set to use cntrl +1 for camera 1 (and so on for the other cameras). Unfortunately i get no response when trying to change angles with the keyboard.Running the latest Premiere CC and Mavericks.
I'm currently doing an architectural visualization piece and wondered if there was a 'standard' Haze setting on a MR Daylight Solution for a realistic indoor scene?
The renders are looking quite nice, but was told altering the haze could give it a more realistic appearance.
