Photoshop :: Why Clone Making A Brighter Background?
Jul 28, 2008
I'm cloning some stray hairs out on model shot on grey background. Only problem is things are looking lighter where I clone. Even I just test the background sampling other background right nearby, the new background is lighter.
I'm struggling in Photoshop with a large number of scanned B/W photos from the '50s and '60s with wide areas of dust and scratches. Dreading the prospect of tedious cloning or healing, I googled for "Dustbusting 101 in Photoshop".
Make a copy of the background layer, select this layer, go to FILTER > NOISE > DUST & SCRATCHES. Set the Threshold to 0 and increase the radius setting until most of the scratches and dust disappear. Add some noise to this layer so that it closely matches your original image. Use this layer to "paint" in the dust and scratches, to do this make sure this background copy is still selected, go to EDIT > TAKE SNAPSHOT. Then select the original background and turn off the background copy layer. Click on the cloning tool and in the options box choose FROM SNAPSHOT. If the dust or scratches are light use the DARKEN MODE for the cloning tool (this will only fill in the light areas and will not affect the other areas of the image). If the dust or scratches are dark use the LIGHTEN MODE for the cloning tool and go over these areas. For this technique you should use a small brush size, although it is tempting to rush through it using a large brush." Â I am stymied when I get to the part which says: "... Click on the cloning tool and in the options box choose FROM SNAPSHOT. ..."
I know it is possible in the full Photoshop program to make a clone stamp of a signature for signing photos, etc, but is it possible to do the same in Elements 11?
I am trying to mask out a light source in a complex figure. I have just upgraded from PSE 11 -> 12, but I doubt that is the problem. I thought the clone stamp tool in Editor was simply not working. When I'd drag (after setting a source) over the bright area, it would darken where I dragged.Â
From experience it seemed like it was marking the area it was going to modify - but this turned out to be the extent of the modification. It just stayed dark. Following other discussions, I adjusted my depth of history to ease RAM footprint, restarted Editor, and rebooted my Mac (OSC 10.9). I also twiddled with all the options under Clone Overlay. I could see the effects, but they did not fix the issue. When I try the Clone Stamp tool elsewhere, it does what I expect.  I'm suspecting pilot error, but don't know what else to try.
I want to clone/copy out a background to extend a pictures width. Â So far I have: -Lassoed a selection of the background and copied it out - but wierd shading marks were left in the final result (I guess due to shade descrapancies) -Merged all the copy layers so I could treat them as one. -Use the Stamp Tool to clone from a perfect area of the original background but the Stap tool is again creating weird shading lines as I use it (ie, doesnt look like its apply the exact color I sampled from) (I tried narrowing the Stamps Master Diameter also but still got weird results..)Â Â Â The Stamp tool doesnt seem to be working how I thought it would work. What am I missing?!
Any good way to extend the background of a picture? Â I have a picture of a person, and their head is very close to the top of the image. Â The background has grass and trees. Â Because of the way I want to print it, I need the background to extend up further. Â Is there an easier way than just manually using the clone feature? Â Something like the smart carver - but extending the pic instead of contracting it.
I just upgraded to CS from 7.0 and in CS whenever I am editing an image the image appears sigificantly brighter than in any other program or when viewed on the net. ImageReady shows the images properly but CS has every image brightened while I am working with it.
Could not use the clone stamp tool because the area to clone has not been defined (option-click to define a source point). this is what shows up in the command box when ever I click to start to pick the spot i want to use as the clone. makes my cloning tool useless. I have reset the tools restrted my computer.
It seems like all of a sudden my marching ants are dim to nearly invisible as I'm making a selection. I haven't updated my software. They show up in some graphics better than others, and once I've made the selection, they show up white again. Example: I'll be using the rectangular marquee tool. Â This happened at the same time that my custom blending options all reverted to the defaults. However, I hadn't made any custom marching ants settings. I don't know why my custon blending options reverted to the defaults, but it's possible that this was triggered by a hard shutdown that I had to do after my trackpad froze. Â Computer: Mac OSX 10.6.8 Software: CS5 extended 12.0.1
I want to make the background of some images transparent so I select the backgrounds and try to delete them, though sometimes if it was white the background remains white and other times it pops up with the fill panel asking me what I want to fill the area with and transparent pixels are not an option, and other times I know I have deleted the background and it has shown me the checkerboard pattern indicating that it was indeed transparent.
I have some black ink writing on a piece of white paper. I would like the writing to become part of a separate colour picture, but without showing the white background.
I was hoping someone could explain how I would go about making the white backround from the piece of paper trasparent, so I can put the writing on the picture, making it look like part of the picture.
I'm designing a header logo for a website with Photoshop CS4 (Mac) but am struggling to understand how to get the background transparent. Â In Photoshop I've designed the logo using multiple layers. Prior to saving I've disabled the background layers (used for testing purposes), thus leaving a transparent area behind the logo (shown as a checkerboard pattern). However, I don't understand what the next step is. I've tried "Save for web" as well as flattening it first, only to result in a white background. I suppose I don't need to flatten it then I've also messed around with the transparency and matte options in the "Save for web" window but to no avail (yes, I know that I need to save in either GIF or PNG though for the latter I don't know the difference between PNG 8 and 24 and which of the three formats I should go for). Â As for "Matte"; is this the color in the image which should be made transparent? So that in my case with a logo containing white among several colors I should make the background something entirely different from the logo as a background layer and choose "Matte" for that? I've also experimented with that but to no avail.
I have an image of a girl on a white background. I need to remove the white background perfectly, so that her image is on top of a teal one. I tried masking and using the magic wand tool and deleteing, but she has all this hair. Is there a quick way to make the background transparent, so that the white just disapears?
I was able to do the fire technique and had a great time. What I want to do is kick it up a notch and make a youth sports poster with Fire (just for my kids team). I want to have fire surrounding the kids (big wall of fire in the background) Not really sure how to do it. I know I can follow the directions with the text and take it a bit further, but hoping for a little direction to start. I have a fairly decent working knowledge with Photoshop.
I would like to make the black background of the image below tranparent so I can paste it on something else. I tried blending modes (the best were screen and linear dodge), but it would not look good on a white background. I do not want to use magic wand, because it would not look so natural and blended. Is there any way, using alpha channels maybe, to make the black transparent?
I have product shots that require me to get a perfect white background whilst retaining the hair outline of the product. I have look at curves and levels but can't seem to get the right masking or layers that keeps the products properties.The main problem i think is because the product itself is a light colour against a background of what should be white.
I have nearly 100 photos that I need to adjust for a directory. All the photos were taken with the same camera with the same lighting. Is there an easy way I can select a color in the background to make adjustments so they all look the same? Doesn't have to be perfect just close. Â I'm using CS6 on a MacBook Pro 10.8.
I have an image of a dog that I'm editing. I took the photo in a studio with a white backdrop. I want to remove a shadow that is behind the dog so the whole background is white. I do not want to lose the detail in the fur of the dog. I've tried doing a mask layer with making the background white. I've also tried the dodge tool. I've tried the selection tool but it look out?
I am trying to make invitations and I want to put a picture thats very light and faded in the background. then on top of that i will write in invite info.
how to make the twisted grid effect in the background of the below picture. I am talking about the structure in the background the one starting orange on the right fading into pink than blue .Am using photoshop CS6.
why is my raw image became brighter on LR4..? it was perfect on the camera lcd but after the importing the raw file to LR4 the image became overexpose.
When walking through my model a brick wall looks like the left image below. When I produce a rendered image the wall appears much brighter as you can see. Cause I've never fumbled around with lighting settings. The darker version is pretty much the one I'm after.
When i import them back into Lightroom 4 they look darker (as they originally were in LR before export). I calibrate my monitor with Spyder 4 pro each month and i have had no problems printing on my Epson r2000 either and have always had accurate prints. Â I maybe imaginging things, but it only seems to be with certain photos (most noticably high ISO astrophotography images). I went through old astro shots this week from over a year ago and thats when i noticed the problem. The expoted files are massively brighter than in Lightroom I am at a loss as to what to do. The display profile on my mac is set to the latest monitor calibration. I havent changed anything in LR but i did get rif of a load of crap on my computer this week as it was becoming slow after updating to OS 9 (mackeeper, dropboxes but nothing i could imagine would relate to LR).
I want to create the effect a clipping mask would have, but for use as an overlay for a motion graphics project, I've tried various methods but the problem I can't resolve is how to do it with the translucent solid color layer as well. I want the text to show right through the gradient tot he video elements it will be laid over, almost like the text was written with an eraser.