I'm trying to salvage through photoshop. I developed this roll at school a few years ago, and thanks to a less than perfect plumbing system I had to develope in water that was too cold. The film of course came out super grainy, and to top it off a few of the photos "somehow" got scratched in the school's drying closest (imagine that.) I've played around with them a bit, trying to fix them up, but my corrections always seem really obvious or compromise the image.
I used to be able to do quick and dirty salvaging of pics that are too darkin Photoshop Elements 2 using the levels tool. While Gimp has a levels tool it doesn't seem to work quite the same way.
I'm trying to remove a red fog band from an image I've scanned. I've tried following the method detailed in the Martin Evening book where he takes the green channel and pastes it to a layer above the main image. He then sets the layer to darken.
Trouble is in his image in the book the red goes grey and the unaffected part of the image only discolours slightly. On my image the majority of it goes grey with only one or two colours showing through at all (yellow mostly).
Moving onto the next step of colourizing the image cyan makes little difference.
May i know which app adobe uses, to capture film from working in Photoshop cs6, for their adobe videos, tutorials and podcasts? I've heard, there must be an official app, but i forgot the name.
i am animating film footage in Photoshop Cs6. i have used the paint brush tool to draw an image over my film, which works nicely. but i have to do this frame by frame--e.g. as i move to the next frame, what i draw is gone, and i have to reanimate every frame. is there a way to hold what i paint in one frame on to the next, so that i am producing a progressive image over the film?
I have some images that I would like to add this effect to.
I am also looking for some information on making a shiny metal background for a website. I have tried many different tutorials, but have yet to find what I am looking for. I want to reproduce a Silver background with a high gloss effect.
Anyone happen to know of a good "melting film" tutorial? I'm looking for a photoshop version of what we've all probably seen on tv. Film strip stopping and getting melted by the projector bulb.
When you've got a photo which the resolution isnt that great on, you tendt to get this grainy effect. It seems to happen mainly on dark colourslike black. When you zoom in close you can see its made up of various colours. None of which generally tend to be black. Is it possible to get all these coloured pixels roughly the same colour so that you can get a smoother finish.
Ive tried various things like the heal brush, few filters etc but nothing really seems to do the trick.
i want draw a 35mm or 120 mm camera film with his wrap, but im beginner. is somewhere any tutorial how do it? any link help me, film isnt problem but crepy wrap...
I need to create a transparent screen protector kind of effect in Photoshop. Pls check the attachment for the effect. I will be greatful if anybody can suggest any tutorials or photoshop filters which can achieve this or a similar kind of effect.
I have a number of the Topaz Labs plug-ins and have recently downloaded and installed D x O film pack. I cannot get PS5 to recognize all the filters at once.
When I go to the preferences/additional plug ins window, I can get PS5 to "see" either topaz labs directory or the DxO directory. What do I have to do to get the filters drop down menu to see all my installed plug ins?
I am photographing 2 1/4 negatives with a CANON 50D and macro lens. Then in Photoshop CS3 I was looking for the filter to convert the negative film file into a positive file so I can work on it with Adobe and then print in on my Canon printer.. I have tried to sample the orange base color and take that out and then invert and then increased the contrast curve.
I am about to get a film scanner I have on order, to scan in 35mm negatives.
When scanning film frames, I like the idea of setting the scan area marquee, at the scanning stage, so that it scans slightly beyond the film frame edges, so that I can carefully crop to the edge of the film frame later, in Photoshop CS6, rather than setting it, at the scanning stage, and then later, when examining the film frame in CS6, maybe discovering that I have not scanned to the edge of the film frame quite enough, as I can easily zoom right into the image when in CS6, to carefully examine where the film frame edges are.
I may be reducing the resolution of the image. For example, say I scan a film frame in at 3600 ppi, and later crop the image slightly in CS6 in order to precisely trim off any slight amount of black around the film frame edges. By cropping the film frame like this in CS6, am I reducing the image resolution of the film frame to lower than 3600ppi? As I best understand it, I do not think post-cropping like this results in any reduction in image resolution.
similar result of Velia film look from my digital photo, here I found two software and the introduction is as below. Please do me a favor to compare the two software.
"Digital Film" is a professional software for emulating the photography reversal film. It can make the color effect of digital photo realistically simulate that of photographic reversal film such as Fujifilm Velvia and Kodak T-Max100. It can make the image clear and vivid, and bring the image strong and perfectly clear colors, rich layers and details, as well as the reduction of noise points and color spots...
With the world-leading Exif Maker editor inside, "Digital Film" supports the updated Exif 2.21, it allows the users to add, to modify and to delete every Exif maker freely, it also supports TIFF & JPEG.
DV (Digital Velvia) is one of the most popular FM actions. Now, the new DV PRO v4.0 offers more than triple the amount of image enhancing saturation options. These 16-bit accuracy saturation steps were developed for those interested in increasing color saturation (simulating a Velvia film look) while keeping low noise and accurate colors within the channels individually.
I'm working on a website with an image and film archive. I wanted to have a couple images for the entry pages that give the site a sort of archive-y, slightly cluttered and haphazard feel. I recently got Photoshop CS2 and have some experience using it and previous versions, though I'm not an expert designer by any means. The two things I'd like to do are:
1. Find a plugin/filter/process to make jpg photo images appear to be old photos sitting on the background. I.e. make them a little warped, give a sense of depth & slight shadow, maybe even a slightly tattered edge. Basically to give the viewer an impression of several photographs scattered on top of a surface (in this case, the white background), maybe some tossed partway on top of others.
2. For the film content, I wanted an image of a 16mm film strip with screen captures from the films displayed as if they were each frame. I can do this with an image of flat 16mm movie film with the screen caps sized to fit the frames, but I'd *really* like to make that film sort of wavy and/or looped. Is there a way to warp a flat image like that into something that looks convincingly wavy, as if the film was just taken out of the canister?
I set up films for screenprinting for remote clents, so work at 35, 45 and 55 lpi a lot. The best way, of course, is to save a pdf with postcript halftones and angles set correctly and have the client print to film through their RIP. Most of my clients don't have RIPs and never will. So I end up working with the bitmap/halftone settings in Phtoshop a lot. It takes a long time. If I could print photoshop or Illustrator seps to hi rez .tiffs (I know they have to be 1200 ppi, but we can work with that) through a RIP via a virtual printer or some other thing, it would save me a lot of time.
how to fix the color on this photo. I have several more like it. They are scanned from photos that were developed from damaged film. On the photos where the entire image is yellowed I have no problem correcting the color, but I'm not quite sure how to make a selection on photos like these and then match the color to the other half..I am using cs5.
I tried following Scott Kelby's instructions for color correcting digital images in PSE 10. I was entering the values he gave for the R,G and Blue channels. I got off track and probably missed a step. Anyway, now when I try any of the auto correction features, my images look like film negatives and not like a regular digital image. How can I re-enable the auto correction features (levels, color correction, etc.) ?
I am using the Nikon Super CoolScan8000 and Vuescan program to scan a slide film. I am scanning at this setting: scan resolution 4000 dpi. I have to make it a certain dimension that someone has been asking me for. They want the image at Width = 60cm (approx. 23 inches) and 300 dpi.
When I scan at 4000 dpi, I'm not sure what size to make the printed width. I have experimented numerous times and I've had no luck with getting exactly what I want. It seems that when I make the width 60 cm (the height adjusts proportionately) and the dpi at 300, the quality is not that great, which it definitely needs to be because it will be printed at a large size.
PS I am using Adobe Photoshop CS3 and I also have Adobe Photoshop Elements 9.
I have started my project with the Instant Project function (middle category) and I am trying to apply the Old Film filter effect to my project but I want most of the original colour to come through. Rather than have the whole thing sepia with scratches and dust, I would like it mostly colour but with scratches and dust etc.
I have clicked on the strip of film that I want to edit the filter on and clicked 'Customize Filter' in the options. From there I clicked 'Duotone' and edited the picture there to how much colour I would like to show through. The problem is, when I click 'Ok', the colour hasn't changed when I go back and replay it. It is still all sepia and not colour.
I have a problem with Pro X4. With Studio 11 Pro, I was able to view the film during saving to file but I cannot with X4. I can't find a solution in the user guide.
I have used VideoStudio for many years. I am currently using VideoStudio Pro X2 and I am trying to burn a film I have just put together on a DVD. I have got to the Preview stage which works perfectly and then I am told to click on "Next" but all I am offered is a "Back" button. The instructions say that I should click on "Show more output options" but that is not there.
