i'm working on my little b&w artwork only using photoshop (see below). now i try to add some shadow to the figure. this shadow should look quite realistic.
in the image you see the figure four times. original top left. in three steps i tried to get the shadow but somehow it doesn't look good enough.
I don't know if this problem was already there in earlier 3ds max versions, but i cant find anywhere on the internet how to create a shadow on a invisible plane like matte shadow could :
I want to make a real photo... like Image 1... apply sme potoshop tweaks in it.. and make it look like a 3D picture.. i can improve the picture.. lol.. but i just cant mek it look 3D.. like in image 2..
I have a map that I'd like to add some "handwritten" text on. My problem is that no matter what I try it looks like it's floating. How to get the text and map to look more "real" together?
I cant animate anyhting in ImageReady anymore, because what ever I do in one frame happen in the others. I used that 2-up thingy so you can see 2 frames clearly.
Thinking about purchasing Adobe CS4 Extended from a seller on eBay and was wondering how I would be able to tell if this was real software I'm purchasing? Looks real in the factory sealed box but how can I know for sure? Also the seller has Positive feedback from other buyers for this same software.
If I take an image that's 8 bits/channel and convert it to 16 bits/channel, Photoshop will tell me I have a 16 bits/channel image, even though it only contains 8 bits/channel of real information (I suppose the other 8 bits are all zero).
If someone gives me a 16 bits/channel image, is there any way that I check how many bits/channel of real information there are in it?
8 and 16 bits aren't the only options. For instance, I believe my Nikon CoolScan V ED film scanner is documented as providing 14 bits/channel. And, of course, some images may have fewer than 8 bits/channel.
I currently have drawn the outine of a map of the island on Photoshop cs3 and now i want to fill the island with 2 country flags blend together within the island outline.
i recently cut out a picture of a girl and put it on a black background. the thing is, it doesn't look natural after i put it ( used the extraction method ). now, how do i edit it such that it will look real/nicer?
planning on designing some artwork for a DVD menu that we want to shoot some photos for. However, we want those photos to be in a specific style, namely japanese manga (japanese comics). I suggested the idea of shooting some pictures first, then editing them in Photoshop to make it look as though they were drawn by a manga-artist.
In CS4, when I try to paint on an 8x10 300dpi portrait with a large, soft, low opacity brush...the appliction of the brush sometimes runs 2-5 seconds delayed behind where I am. I put down a few dabs and its OK... but then... when I put down 10 dabs in succession...then there is a few seconds delay. This same thing Does NOT happen in CS3. Im trying really hard to fix this by optimizing all I can. I have CS4 on Win XP SP3, and a 3 gig CPU, 4 Gigs of Ram, and an Adobe recommended Gforce 9600 512mb video Card set for open GL2. Ive set the preferences to 55% of memory for photoshop with 2 gigs of free memory, I set the history states to 20 and tried adjusting cache levels from 4 to 6, and I have a separate SATA scratch disk with 32 gigs free. AND, Ive upgraded to version 11.01 I dont get it. Why are my brushes taking so long in CS4 when they run perfectly in CS3?
Is there a way to make a real life image into a cartoon? That is, some technique that draws a black outline around the sharp edges, and colors regions of like color into completely homogenous color, and maybe adds shading to grades from light to dark?
Here's an example of what I mean. I did this in Photoshop but painstakingly. I want to know if there's an automatic way to do it.
As it is possible to import 3D objects in PS... And display it in outline in an orthographic view, I'm wondering how to print this view at scale 1:1 of the model size... Â and not the size of the image file defined in pixels. AS a workaround is it possible to export that view in vector format to edit and print in Illustrator or Acrobat.
I have two layers. One is completely red (r255,g0,b0). The other layer is completely green (r0,g255,b0).
How can I make it so that if I lower the opacity of the green layer (which is above the red layer), to 50% that the result is completely yellow (r255,g255,b0)?
I've tried all the blending options, none of them achieve this basic effect. The closest I got was something that looked like a darker orange.
I paint for a long time with Photoshop. I always tried to set up my brushes so that the paint strokes look as realistic (for example like pencil or like acrylic brush strokes) as possible.
The problem is, when i Google for realistic brushes i always find only scanned brush/pencil strokes or scanned flowers and so on. But i need the brush settings to make the Photoshop brush behave like a pencil, marker or acrylic brush.
I've read threads on drawing a tile or something of a certain size, then using the offset filter, but what I'm wondering is - is there anyway to draw within a certain bounding box for the tile, and have that same tile updated and drawn realtime next to the tile you're currently drawing? My project is a 2D platformer game, and say we have a block of grass that's 128x64. I need the left and right borders of this tile to blend so that I can place multiple tiles of this kind next to each other and they'll loop nicely, but it's extremely difficult to draw a tile, and then copy and paste it next to the tile every single time I make any change to the original tile to test and see if it'll blend seamlessly as it loops.
Unfortunately I attempted to uninstall my CS6 beta by dragging the app to the trash, then emptying the trash bin. Now the install disk for CS6 still sends an error message and says there is a beta version of CS6 on the disk and won't install the real CS6.Â
as photoshop users u probably already heard about a photoshop plugin called eye candy right? ok then, i was seeing their ready to use effects list and i saw an amazing star with a real chrome effect like it was done in 3ds or something like that but they use only PS! in their explanation section they told that effect was created using tiff files for mapping like we do in 3ds...
I'm a professional artist so I need really good photos of my work for promo and gallery applications. My Brother gave me a really good Canon Scanner. He told me I should try and scan my paintings, laying them on the scanner one way then the other (from top bottom and then side to side). Once in the computer he said I should overlay them in photoshop (Elements 7) to minimize the glare from the brushstokes (It's oil paint). [URL]. It worked but it's really blurry.Â
re: NEW color picker stroke color not updating in real time (previewing). Â Is it me or has the stroke color preview been removed in CS6 or is there a setting that needs to be changed to enable it? Â The problem: When I create a shape layer, press enter and then chose a stroke color from the color picker, I select a color but it doesn't update the stroke color until I press enter. I'm sure it used to change in real time as you clicked on the color picker panel before accepting it. Â Further update: This is when creating a shape but using the new stroke feature in the properties bar at the top (the one which gives you the new fancy options like having a dashed, transparent or gradient stroke) and not the traditional method of adding it as an effect. This still shows a real time update, but the new method doesn't.
Video playback of camera videos is very choppy on older computers, AKA my computer. I know if I disable audio I can get smoother playback )although slow motion. Is there anyway to view camera MOV files in real time on an older computer.