When I try to merge for example 3 fullsize jpgs ( 2304x3400 ) the resulting panorama is a file thet is only 1300 pixels wide ( although stitched correctly ). Seems strange to me as there are no options I know of the determine the output size.
Im getting not enough memory (RAM) error messages attempting to photomerge or auto-align large images. Any other filter or tool that I need works just fine on these size files. Neither tweaking CS3 preferences (as has been discussed rather thoroughly on this forum) nor toggling the 3 GB switch under XP (my PC has 4 GB ram and >200 GB scratch) helped. Given optimal settings, what are the upper dimensions that I might reasonably expect to photomerge, either under XP or Vista 64? If its not unheard of to photomerge and auto align huge files, Id upgrade my system. Otherwise, Ill plan the upgrade and wait for CS4.
Is there a simple way to limit the file size of the photos selected in LR3 for a photomerge in PS5?
I have found that without limiting the size, the panoramas generated are very large - 1GB or greater.
I've found an work around by opening the photos in Bridge and then in Camera Raw where I can reduce the file size before using PS5 for photomerge. After I've done this, it's a bit of a hassle to get the panorama back into LR3. The benefit of this approach is that it speeds up the processing significantly and downstream with any subsequent processing since the files are just large and not ginormus.
If this isn't possible, this seems like a good idea for LR4.
I've been asked to do a poster A2 size 594mm x 420mm 300dpi but when i enter these dimensions my pc is slowing down dramatically. whats the best way to achieve better performance?
Ok so my image size is about 24x20 and when I save the output of the image is almost half the size. The project has a lot of details so it looks like a big blob shrunken down to half size. I've played around with the settings for hours in save for web option and I get the same results. how to save so the output is nearly the original size, or just so you can see the details!
Edits look nice in size such as fit screen, but awful in the larger views. Instructions have been to view edits at 100% but what size=what % view of what one would see the picture once it is viewed on a computer, figuring that people will not enlarge too terribly much.
I would like my DVD output to fill more of my (be larger) TV screen. I am copying VHS tapes to DVD using Sony DvDirect. The DVD files are then imported into Video Studio Pro 4, edited, and then output to DVD. The input and output is 4:3 and frame size is 720 x 480. I can't set this to a larger frame size using any of the tools I've found. Is it the frame size I want to increase?
I have a comic problem with 3ds max. I want to have a 500X500 size video from 3ds max. However 3ds max creates 720x480 size avi video. Example: if I select 500x500 output size, when play the resulting avi, its 720x480. I really couldn't solve the problem. Even I am typing 500x500 custom size into output size command. Am I missing a setting somewhere?
I am having a problem with output size when rendering. From Draft right through to presentation the output size is greyed out so I cannot change it. I've never had this problem before. Have I inadvertantly clicked on something which disables the output size?
I am creating colage images in Photoshop CS4. I sometimes use scanned vintage daguerreotypes or other small snapshots. They are often small sized at 3.5" x 4.5" or 4.25" x 5.5". My Epson 835 scanner can scan in at 300, 400, up to 800 dpi. If I intend to print these scans at 8x10, 11x14 or a larger size within the overall collage, should I scan in at the highest dpi allowed by my scanner? Does this make a real difference after 300 in resolution/clarity?
Also, Does Photoshop CS4, in the enlarging process, as I bring the smaller image into my composite and stretch size it up with (T) tool, end up just making "junk pixels" using "Bicubic" or "Bicubic smoother" in the printing from flattened PS file, even tho I scanned in at a high dpi? scan in at best dpi so that the image won't be pixelated, lose resolution as it is used larger inside the final composite collage.
I am having a problem when exporting surface data into an .xml format using AutoCAD Civil 3D 2012. I am using LIDAR information to create a surface over an area of approximately 3 hectares in order to undertake future flood modelling. When I have created my surface in Civil 3D the overall file size is around 5MB, however when the surface exported to a .xml format the file is approximately 860MB. I have tried to create a new surface from contour information to decrease overall fle size but with no avail. Any recommendations to decrease the .xml file size without having excessive loss of accuracy for my modelling.
Lidar information that I am using to create surface can be found at URL.....
I do a lot of animations so I create FG maps and freeze them. I normally render at 1280 x 720 and create my FG maps at 480 x 270 and samples per pixel at min 4 max 64.
Does samples per pixel effect FG maps. I read somewhere it doesn't and that you can quite happily render FG maps at min 1/64 max 1/64. Which would increase the speed of the crateing FG maps.
Would I be better lowering my samples per pixel and highering my output size?
I'm usually in a constant battle with flickering especially with folaige
I upgraded from VS 12 into VS Pro X5 Ultimate a while ago and now I have some issues in editing some old footage taken with Sony H9 camera. This camera makes 640*480 30 frames/s Mpeg-1 video files.
After editing the movie, I would like to export it into 640*480 30 frames/s Mpeg-2 file as I used to be able to do with VS 12 (in the old Win-XP machine, current one is Win-7 64-bit). Now however, the VS X5 does not give me the option in 'Create Video File' to set 'User-defined' frame size.
It only lists under MPEG-files -> Options: standard 720 x 576 (yes I am on PAL region) and 25 frames/s. Why is this? The only encoder shown is 'Ulead MPEG.Now Encoder'. Maybe I had some other encoder available in the Win-XP machine?
I have been searching for Win-7 MPEG-2 encoder, but no luck.
How to get user-defined frame-size and rates under MPEG-2 encoder in VS PRO X5 ???
I am making a holiday greeting card. I have 16 very larged photo images "linked" (not embedded) into the card. The original images are very large (e.g. 4500 x 3000 px, 10mb) but I've placed them fairly small in the final card (only about 2" x 2" printed). Therefore, I likely don't need the full resolution of the original photos. I need to generate a final file that I can send to an online print shop, something that is ideally 10-25Mb in size, probably pdf. How to prepare the final file for export to pdf to generate as such? Right now, the final file is 275Mb because it is embedding the full size of each of the 16 images.
When first making the video in Edit mode, is there any way to see the final output size before or after selecting Create Video File before the file is created.
If I choose Create Disk it will show the output size.
If not what would the maximum running time be for DVD output?
I set up a sequence that is HD, but I have source material that is 2K (2560x1440). When I try to insert or overwrite said source clip to the sequence, it should insert and automatically add a resize node. Instead, it changes the sequence size to match the source size. Bug?
Also, I can't seem to find a way to resize the output of my connectFX node to match the sequence size. For example, lets say I want to comp a bunch of shots that are 2K in action, and then output an HD sequence matching my sequence size. How is this done? I have changed the comp size in action and linked that to the connectfx node, but it just puts the smaller comp size in a black box which is the size of the source material (in this case, 2K).
Using an HP 1050c Plus with the latest HP drivers for Windows XP on AutoCAD MEP 2009. If I use the standard printer margins it all works fine, except that the margins are way too big and no border we have will print without cutting off at least .25" all around. If I go to properties and change the margins to .1" all around, my 42x30 sheets will print out with 43" of paper. If I make them .25", I will get 42.5" of paper. I just started at this company and have never had this problem before with an HP 1050 plotter. I have tried different combinations of the Extend margins, Inked area and autorotate checkboxes but haven't been able to figure it out yet.
I took a series of photos (9 shot vertically) of the lobby of AKL. I made adjustments in Bridge (3.0.0.464) then choose Photomerge through tools in Bridge to process the pano in CS4 (11.0). The images were processed for the natural light. Follow the link to see what CS4 came up with. The files were .dng processed with CS3. I have made many other photomerges using this combo, but this is first to achieve this type of result. In CS4, I used the vignette and distortion options.
I'm using Photoshop on Vista 32. When I try to do a photomerge either from PS or Bridge, it does its stuff, then closes everything immediately. Reboots / changed options make no difference.
When i run a Photomerge (using jpegs) i have even tried using the sample jpegs that come with the software of the SF skyline.
I select my images, and it runs the usual sequence of starting the layers and merging then when it ends its just dissappears looking like the software has just opend with nothing happening.
Ive tried every combination to make them work and nothing. i never get to see any results.
I am using CS4, and ive also tried in CS3 again which is still installed on my partition. and its not working in that either. it used to work with no problems bit not now.
Just created a panorama out of 4 jpegs (together about 33MB) and saved it as jpeg. Now I want to create another panorama out of 10 jpegs (together about 73MB), it worked fine, but I can't save it in jpg format. CS3 only offers .psb, raw or tif.
I tried 4 times consequently to stitch 4 images in Photomerge activated from Bridge - with same settings (auto and defaults i.e. blending images on, vignette removal off, distortion correction off). I was surprised of the result because each time I tried PS generated different panorama. Just to make sure I thoroughly checked if the stitch settings were really the same - they were... Am I missing something essential?
When I click file automate - photo merge, I get an error message popup saying "Photoshop CS5.1 has stopped working." with options to check on internet for solution or close program. No error codes!
I reloaded my Photoshop to my C: drive about a week ago, but everything else seem to be working as it is supposed to. I have also installed a wacom pro, but I can't see where this would affect it.
When I have two or more photos open and I want to move them around, everytime I drag one over the other it becomes transparent. This transparency seems to happen once I drag the photo over the ruler but I could be wrong. Once I release the mouse button the two merge into one photo. I believe this has something to do with the photo merge feature. Can I turn this off?
I've seen recent posts about Photo merge crashing, I tried all the workarounds and remedies to no success. I run as Admin and still crashes, and only Photo merge is causing to crash. All other presets and automates are working just fine. I've deleted all Temp files and App Data, still nothing.
My stats are:
Windows 7 Professional Intel i7 vPro (2860Qm @ 2.5GHz) 16GB Ram Nvidia Quadro 2000M (lastest drivers, 266.96) Scratch disk is 200GB and I'm using about 9GB of Ram
So I don't think it's my computer that's the problem, but either the java script file for the automate or possible update?
Photoshop CS5 crashes when I try to use photo merge. Is there anything I can do so this wont happen?? Now I can't make panorama pictures. It's on my laptop it doesn't work. Samsung laptop with Windows 7. It works on my stationary computer with Windows Vista. I have the same version of PS CS5 on both computers.
The Photomerge in Photoshop CS4E is a fantastic tool when it gets it right, but what can you do when it doesn't? I've got a bunch of 9 images (in a "Noughts and Crosses" or "Tic Tac Toe" layout), all with 50% overlap, but a lot of fairly blank areas - this can't be avoided, they are nautical charts. When I do Auto Photomerge on these, a couple of the images get put in the wrong place. Is there a way to position the images in their approximate place, then get Photoshop to finish the job automatically?
cs3 had this option when creating a photomerge that made it so much easier to combine several photos when cs3 got lost in trying to merge.
I looked and looked in cs4 for the interactive command, so much simpler than grabbing the eraser and opacity, but I could not find the interactive addition for photomerge. Has it been moved or what ? IIRC in cs3 it was interactive from bridge..
When using the Photomerge tool in CS3 to do merges of 10+ images (10MP RAW), the process almost always stops at the blending step. Images are laid out properly, but the edges are not blended. Is there a particular reason for this? System has 3GB RAM, running XP (SP3).
Note that for smaller merges, the process completes fine.
I'd also be curious to know if the Photomerge facility has been improved in CS4. It works well enough, but on a dual-core 2GHZ system, it still can take 5 minutes to do an 8 image photomerge.
I have read and understood the Photomerge tool (and tried the process with the sample images that are in CS2). All this seems to be fine except for a couple of things...
1. To achieve 180 degrees I am going to need more than 3 images right? (overlapping each image by 15%-40%).
a. Can Photomerge in CS2 work with more than 3 images, or is 3 the maximum??
If 3 is the maximum, then it wouldn't be difficult to just increase the canvas width and add on? Or not? Or do 2 sets of 3 then hand stitch those together? What is the best process for achieving 180??
Also, I like to shoot just before sunset,usually. If I did a 180, say with the sun setting in the right hand side of the image, then panned to the left snapping as I go, I am obviously going to get different gradients of blue in the sky, (lighter sky to the right, a darker sky to the left)
Should I shoot in Manual or Aperture?
How will I get the tones in the sky to be seemless?. As long as I overlap by 15% - 40% all should be good?
What is the best process for achieving equal exposure in all shots?