Photoshop :: PDF Created With Auto Cad Making The Image Lighter In CS6
Oct 24, 2013
I've a pdf created with auto cad 2013 printed with adobe pdf. I put it into the Photoshop cs6, but it always make my image lighter, and i have to adjust exposure, levels or brightness to see the image fine. And i don't like doing this because the image is not exactly the same...
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I have this friend who work with the same tools and his pdf is perfect in his Photoshop. I think is a rastering issue because the pdfs looks great until the Photoshop interpret the image.
The slideshow module seems to autoadjust the blacks in my lowlight images making them appear grainy despite them looking right to my eye in the Develope module. How do I prevent this?
if she crops a photo in Photoshop CC, the image changes; it looks lighter/pale. the color profile is the same as before.(In Photoshop CS5 this wasn't happening.)I thought the image doesn't change after a crop.
I want to change the color to hex #00aced (0, 172, 237). I tried the colorfy, but the image comes out purple. Another way that has worked for me in the past, with white images, is by clicking on the channel dialog and dragging the red down. Clicking on the eye, next delete the original image and than add a new foreground color based on what color I selected from the palette. Of course this isn't working either since the image is so dark.
Now in channel mixer it could work if the RGB would go higher than 200, but since my blue is 237 this is where I am stuck. It has worked with other colors, as long as the RGB is less than 200. This is by selecting each output individually, for example, starting with red and entering a value in red and leaving green and blue at 0. Next selecting Green, entering a value in green and leaving red and blue at 0, and so on... Is there some type of mathematical solution for using the channel mixer, or simple yet, is there a way of making my image more white, without losing my shadows?
I'm experiencing a bit of an organization problem with Lightroom 3 which is probably rather easy to fix, but I just can't seen ti figure out how. When I import photos in Lightroom it automatically creates folders (2011-12-14 for example) and I would like to change the location on my computer for these folders, but I can't find where to do it. It now creates these folders in my regular Pictures folder which gets really messy due to this. How can I change this? And how do I relocate all the excisting folders on my laptop, without having to find all the missing photos afterwards.
I have created the Custom library of ISO bolts by adding the Material to existing ISO library using the Material Guide. Â The goal is to make bolts black and anodized to be more specific with purchase orders from very beginning. Â After the adding the material everything is working good except the auto drop. There is a wide Table pop ups with a lot of unnecessary info. Â Is it possible to choose the columns to represent there? I mean leave just Material or Part Number ?
I would like to know whether it is possible (and how) to trim a wall that was generated from mass face to a roof (also generated from face mass) or/and make a horizontal hole in it. The wall itself is not straight or curved, it shifts outwards from the building from base to top (still in an elevation it looks like rectangle).
I have photoshop cs4 and I cannot find the Auto smart fix, auto levels, and auto contrast nor the adjustment for each that I had with photoshop elements.
I was just wondering as to whether its possible to keep the checkered base which you get when you remove part of an image or have it transparent to stay in the created image.
I am sure you all know this.
Here is the YouTube background which I have created and wondering if I am able to keep the checkered base or whatever in the image after I have saved it rather than print screening and pasting it back like a jigsaw puzzle.
I am really new to photoshop... i have been trying to make vector art from live images but failed ...make this given live image like the another image which is vector.
I've created an image from scratch using Photoshop CS2 (I combined a number of images into one image), to discover I need to make the image larger. Do I need to start over, or is there a way to resize the image without degrading the quality of the image?
tryng to resize some pictures for the web I notice under Image ---- image size a button marked Auto. Pressed it and it increased by print resolution from 91 to 266 ( whichI think is a commercial printing resolution) However when I now reduced the image in size I got a better end product. So I've searched the help file for info on what/how this auto button does but can't find anything.
The image is basically a grayscale height map created from Digital Elevation Models, and exported out of another program as a 16bit tiff. I know photoshop can handle the idea of a 16bit image, but no matter what I do, these come out black. i've tried dumping it out as signed, unsigned, stretched, etc. I can't mess with things like contrast or brightness globally cause that will alter the values which have to stay the same.Basically it needs to open in photoshop cs5 as what it is and save off the same way. Â I don't have any other way to do what I need to do to it other than photoshop, so if there is a way to make this work, and no, converting it to 8bit is not an option.
I've created an image file in Illustrator and exported it as a .png file. The dimensions are 1000x200 but when I export it the file size changes and becomes bigger. I therefore have to change the file size in Fireworks making sure that the quality is kept as Photoshop does not do it for me. Previously when I exported the files the backgrounds appeared transparent after saving but maybe I've changed a setting by accident that has changed this. I'm selecting the 'Save as' and Flattened png option at 32bit in FW.
When I open, say, 10 images at once, I see (10) individual "restore down" windows atop each other;I then maximize top window & process; when I close top window:in my CS1, next window=image auto-maximizes window & sliders will appear if I zoom to 100%  in my CS2, next window=image is still "restore down" & I have to click windows upper right "Maximize" icon  Question: how to get CS2 "behaving" like CS1?
I am looking for a way to automate the process of cropping an image to a rectangle that precisly fits the outermost non-white pixels of an image. Ideally I would be able to specify the white tolerance. Is there a plugin that does this? Or a series of steps that can be rolled into an action?
I have Photoshop V7. When I open an image, then go to the image toolbar - 'adjustments' - auto colour/contract, my image goes white. Needless to say I have tried to correct this without success. I tried uninstalling the program and re-installed it but I still have the same problem.
I've been taking photos with a homemade lightbox which includes a white background and I typically have to go into photoshop to make some adjustments to get the background pure white. When I'm snapping a photo of an all white object against an all white background, it looks rather nasty if you use the auto color tool.
So from my understanding auto color uses the lightest white and the darkest black and the reason the white/white scenerio doesn't work it because of a lack of black. So to combat this I've been creating a new layer and adding a little black with the rectangular tool and filling it with black. Now, I'd like to be able to delete this second layer once I've used the auto color feature but can't figure out how.
what setting, the end mp4 video will always have black vertical margins. I never have this problem when generating videos with Quicktime using the same source.
The source dimension is 4256x2832, and specifying this as output size will also create the bars.
If I use 2 monitors to display 1 image with the image extending from one monitor into and across the second monitor, can I make a screen shot of the entire image without any break in the middle where it crosses from one monitor to the other? Will it be one continuous screenshot of the entire image, even though the image is displayed on 2 monitors?
When I save an image from the internet and open it in photoshop, it is lighter than it should be. I have even opened it with other programs to make sure the image was not corrupt, and it showed up perfect with those.
I have two images. I want to make one image look as though it is coming out of the other. In the middle of the image. I have an image of a forge. and the other is a saxophone. I want to combine the two so that it looks like the sax is be made from the fire in the forge. I just want the bottom of the sax not be shown.
I was using these tool on a lot of images, because they often seemed to vastly improve them, making the colors pop on otherwise somewhat dull ones, and getting rid of unwanted color casts..
Later though I noticed that it is often at the cost of burning out hightlights in some areas beyond salvation.I also find shadow /highlight sometimes does this also.
Then I tried to protect some small areas with a mask before proceeding, but it seems that I can't find information on just painting a mask, but only videos with much more complex adjustment such as the Russel Crow or Lynda ones with maintaing hair detail while superimposing images, which is way beyond what I need in these cases.  If I try the wand to select and inverse I get unnatural looking divisions. Is it a matter of feathering to the right extent?Â
