Photoshop :: Images Off Colour And Overexposed When Printing
Oct 12, 2013
I'm new to the site. I have been using adobe software for a good few years at this point, and i have been trying to solve a problem with my friends Photoshop and illustrator. every time she prints out work, its all off colour and over exposed like the colour preferences are messed up.
When printing a word doc or regular jpg images there is no problem. It only happens when trying to print in Photoshop or illustrator.
I'm trying out PSP X4 on the free trial. I'm on a Dell laptop with Windows 7. The camera is a Nikon D70s. I was trying to use UFRAW to transform the images from NEF format to PNG, and then GIMP to adjust and crop and resize. I've found GIMP to be really frustrating to use, so I'm dropping that for something else, hence the PSP X4 trial.
For the most part, I need it for digitally editing the documentation photos that I take of my paintings, and as well for managing our family photos. I've been using ArtRage for digital painting.
So mainly for my painting photos, I need to adjust the color balance to the gray card, adjust for lens distortion, crop, and resize.
When I open my folder of NEF files, the NEF files look really over exposed and washed out, especially compared to the PNG files that I made earlier using ufraw. They appear that way in both the viewing bar and when they're in the edit mode.
Does PSP have some kind of default viewing auto-adjustment going on? Am I missing something?
How do I convert the colour profile of a Lightroom custom printing package from Adobe Prophoto to sRGB before printing? For that matter, how do I save the thing? I have no interest in saving the template, or the collection separately, since neither has any use without the other. And without saving them as one finished item, I have no way to convert the colour profile of that item. I can see clearly from the appearance of the print preview that the above mentioned colour profile conversion is required.
I have never had this problem until today, I have something I want to print in a bright orange but when I print it prints in a light redish colour, I have printed with this colour before but no problems.
Another thing happened in photoshop CS today, all the menu's and tools on the screen in photoshop just vanished, maybe this has something to do with it, should I re install photoshop?
Using CS6, infrequently and inconsistently, the thumbnails are not accurate, appearing over exposed. This mostly occurs with jpgs, made from tifs/ psds, but on rare occasion has occurred in tif/ psd too. This is not a constant issue, and I cannot fathom a pattern. I can process several images at same time and only one might be affected. I have emptied my bridge cache, so that doesn't seem to contribute.
I can draw the marquee squares or elipse. I can draw them and constrain them and reposition them.
What I cannot figure out is once I have drawn the shape, let go of the mouse and want to THEN go and change the size & shape of the marquee, how to do it. How do I make the top/bottom of a circular elipse change? And then bring a side in? Do I have to keep re-drawing until I am perfect?
I have some images with some very tough lighting. I think the images were shot in the wrong camera ISO settings. So most of the pictures have 4-5 people in them and it is there faces that have this HUGE amount of overexposure going on. How can I isolate their faces to work on the exposure/lighting/color correction for their heads? And then select inverse(?) and correct the rest of the area?
I am currently attempting to create a wood grain background.
I saw that using an overlay gradient really makes it look a lot more realistic but this is to be printed so I am not sure if this is basically treated as a transparent gradient and may not print. Another step in the tutorial I was looking at was also to add another overlay with a colour burn tool so it creates a lighting effect. Again, does this add transparency (my gut is telling me yes).
Here is the tutorial so the effects are better explained (step 8 and 9) - the other steps I have not used as I drew the grain by hand: [URL] ......
I had an earlier issue where I had created gradients with a part of them transparent and they did not print and so I have been avoiding transparency at all costs. The funny thing was when I had a group of objects at 80% transparency they seemed to print fine.
What is print safe and what is not when it comes to such effects.
We are just in the process of setting up Corel X6 for deployment in our office and we are trying to get a handle on the colour settings. We have upgraded from CD11 which had very little in the way of colour management and so we are somewhat inexperienced in how to set up.
We have two production printers an OKI 821 and a Ricoh C820DN which we print to using PCL drivers. We believe that we therefore need to use RGB as our colour mode and use an ICC profile for each printer for colour correction with colour management switched off on the driver. Is this correct? We've had a try this afternoon and the colours on the prints differ greatly from the display (which has been profiled using an xrite i1pro calibrator). They also differ from each other.
The monitor profile is set as the device profile in the windows colour system, and we are using that as our engine in corel.
Have a slight problem with our new HP Designjet 500 printer which has just replaced our previous HP Designjet 500 printer that went bang a few days ago!
Problem is, all the lines or blocks etc within the drawing that are on colour 253 (a grey i use for certain elements of the drawing) are coming out purple when i print the drawing out!?
I run a little print shop as part of our Charity and we produce T-shirts, sublimation mugs and coasters as well as some paper based goods.
I've read a lot about color management but what is the best way to to set up to print to our postscript printers (one OKI 821 & a Ricoh 820DN)
Currently I have the default workspace set to CMYK, sRGB & coated Fogra39 profiles, color engine as WCS, preserve black off and the rest as defaults.
My question is how to set up for printing to postscript? I've read that this is best for color accuracy and allows for different colour spaces with in the same document. We print a lot of cards for local artists whose images are edited in Photoshop and output as srgb jpegs. We then import these into corel and add writing using the standard CMYK palette.
At the moment when we print we have corel set to manage colours, output colours as native as there is a combination of of RGB & CMYK elements. Within the printer driver we set either CM off or ICM managed by host, depending on the driver.
Is this correct? I did have a thought that this combination may mean that effectively there is no color management happening at all!?! It is useful for us to keep the jpegs as RGB because some customers will require their artwork on sublimation items as well which require transfers being produced on a non-postscript device. For these we use a sublimation ICC profile and a PCL driver and it works well.
With postscript I have found that outputting the file as cmyk rather than native dulls the image considerably. However, using native output gives different results from both of our printers.
Ive got around 100 images (all different) of white shoes.
For each image I have to change the shoes to 35 different colours.
I am going to do this by opening the image, selecting the area of the shoe, copying to a new layer, setting mode to colour and brushing in the colour.
Each image needs to be in the same 35 colours.
Now I could do this all manually but it will take an ages. Given it is the same 35 colours for each image needed is there an easier way, maybe an action, so that i can open the image select the area i need changing and the click and it saves the image in the 35 colours?
How do I make an image single colour and white. Like Black and White but where the Black and Grey shades are replaced with blue and different shades of blue or red and different shades of red. So like blue and white OR red and white images...?
I'm having issues printing layouts to full colour. I've Exported to PDF and plotted to a printer and the same things keep happening. The Polylines and hatching keep being faded whilst printing. I've checked lineweights, I've turned off everything to do with fading - even layer managers setting fade slide bar is turned off. I've massed with plot styles and still it is happening.
the record I am using Photoshop 7 (yes it's old, but it suits my needs just fine!) and Windows Vista Home Premium.What I do is take photographs of my artworks, edit them in Photoshop until they look accurate, then post them online. Images have always looked identical in every program, and I had never had any problems, until I got connected to the Internet on Tuesday. This computer has not been connected to the net for a good few years, and so lots of updates got installed. I'm not sure which ones exactly, as my boyfriend took care of that, but I'm convinced this has caused the problems I am having now:
First I found that an image I had edited and saved as .jpg for web use was showing up overly saturated and contrasty in the Windows Photo Gallery preview. I assumed I had saved it wrongly. I re-opened the jpg in Photoshop to check - it looked exactly as I had saved it. I figured something had messed up with Photo Gallery during updates, so I uploaded the jpg to the Internet. The image that uploaded was the overly-saturated, contrasty one.
After realising that suddenly ALL the images I had uploaded online, and all the images saved on my computer, now had this awful over-saturated look, and yet the thumbnails on my desktop looked fine... I realised it must be something to do with the colour profiles, and tried to find out the answer online. My monitor colour profile was set to "21.5 inch monitor" so I changed that to sRGB as default. I can't remember what Photoshop was set to, but at any rate I set it to sRGB also.
I thought I had it fixed, as it seemed to just be Photo Gallery that was not matching up (it was displaying my images with less saturation than as I saved them).However today I took a new photo of a drawing I'm working on, to load onto my blog. I had to take it into Photoshop to make edits and correct, as always. I opened my photo in Photoshop... lo and behold, far too contrasty and saturated!!
This time, Windows Photo Gallery preview is showing the (unedited, straight out of camera) photo as it should be... Photoshop opens it too contrasty.I made my edits anyway, saved for web as .jpg, checked the jpg in Photo Gallery before uploading... It saved duller than it should have done! Uploaded the jpg to the internet... and I have the dull image uploaded.
So first they were too contrasty, now they're too dull. Being an artist who displays work online and has a certain reliance on the internet... my images have to be accurate and consistent all the way through. Is there anything I can do to set things back to the way they were before?
I have just moved over to Photoshop CS6 from Elements 10. One thing I can't work out how to do is to have PS automatically convert opened files to RGB, exactly like PSE does.
I have been successfully printing images from CS3 on an Epson 3880. Now that I have had to upgrade to CS6, I have a big problem. In CS3 When I went Print-> Photoshop Manages Colors to choose an ICC color profile, there would be a companion Output box, where I could drag the Transfer slider down to brighten the image. I can't find Output in CS6! Since choosing Photoshop Manages Colors turns off the printer's color etc controls,
I cannot print photogrpaic images with my desktop MAC (OS X10.8.4) from Photoshop Elements 9.0 to my new Epson XP-800 printer. Printing is not a problem with Word text or images from iPhoto- it is only with PSE that there is a problem. The problem persists even if I try using a cabled connection rather than WiFi. I have ensured latest software from Epson has been downloaded. This problem did not occur when using the same system with the previous printer (Epson Photo Stylus 1290).
Any workaround of moving the edited PSE image back to iPhoto & printing from there (which admittedly does work but shouldn't be necessary).
I have a small print shop and have had an issue with the new Photoshop CC not printing images with correct margins on and Epson 9890 and 11880. If I set the image to center on an 8x10 sheet (or any other size). The image comes out skewed to the upper left. between .125 and .25 inches to the left and to the top. I never had this issue with other versions of Photoshop.
I have just started producing photo books, and I am very pleased with the results. But then I realised that I should have changed the resolution of the images I sent to the printing company from 72 dpi to 300 dpi. I have just sent another book with all the images changed to 300dpi which should be good. But ..... I didn't do anything with the "resampling" tick box - I just left it ticked (mainly cos I didn't understand it). Should I have unchecked the "resampling" tick box?
if it was possible to send a single print job from photoshop to a printer so that an image1 is sent to be printed on page 1, and an image2 is sent to be printed on page 2. can 2 seperate image files be printed so that the first is considered page1 and the second is considered page 2?
I need to print multiple copies of a single image onto an A4 sheet with crop marks around each image. I have tried "contact sheet" and "picture package" but this doesn't provide control over the image size and I can't get crop marks.
I'm working in Cs5 and I need to speed up my working process. So I have about 2000 images that I wanna print. I'm going to print them on A3 and on each A3 page I want to have 21 images. So it's a very simple process of just minimizing the pictures and putting them side by side, but almost 2000 pictures.
I amprinting on an Epson Stylus Pro 4800 using Photoshop CS3. Although the printer will accommodate lengths up to 55 inches, when I try to print something longer than 30 inches, Photoshop crashes. Epson adives the purchase of RIP software. Is there a way in Photoshop to get around the length limitation?
