How do I make an image single colour and white. Like Black and White but where the Black and Grey shades are replaced with blue and different shades of blue or red and different shades of red. So like blue and white OR red and white images...?
View 1 RepliesI would like to know how to change the colour of a single layered, single coloured gradient (foreground to transparent) image. There is nothing more to it than that other than I don't want to use the hue/saturation adjustment as it's hard to get a specific colour.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to erase all of a single colour from an image. I use the colour range select to choose the colour (orange) however when I erase, it seems to erase an underlay underneath colours (esp yellow) in unselected areas.
How can I stop this?
I have a few thousand files that I need to process into colour swatches for a web site. The process entails locating a suitable area of each image, cropping that area to 25 pixels square, and saving the result. Obviously, I need to be able to do this as quickly as possible; ideally with just a single click for each image, and so I'd like to set up a script in order to batch-process the images. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that a suitable position on one image is going to be at all suitable for another, so a limited amount of interactivity is required.
Is it possible to set up an interactive batch task, or would some other approach be required?
How to convert 100 jpg images into single png using Photoshop in single action?
View 4 Replies View RelatedIve got around 100 images (all different) of white shoes.
For each image I have to change the shoes to 35 different colours.
I am going to do this by opening the image, selecting the area of the shoe, copying to a new layer, setting mode to colour and brushing in the colour.
Each image needs to be in the same 35 colours.
Now I could do this all manually but it will take an ages. Given it is the same 35 colours for each image needed is there an easier way, maybe an action, so that i can open the image select the area i need changing and the click and it saves the image in the 35 colours?
I'm new to the site. I have been using adobe software for a good few years at this point, and i have been trying to solve a problem with my friends Photoshop and illustrator. every time she prints out work, its all off colour and over exposed like the colour preferences are messed up.
When printing a word doc or regular jpg images there is no problem. It only happens when trying to print in Photoshop or illustrator.
Edit
CS3 Extended
Printer brother DCP-165C
i am trying to do is add multiple images/pictures/jpegs to a single file/document of photoshop...
I don't want to use the cut/paste thing...how do i simply add multiple images to a document i already have open?
When I save my .PSD files as .JPEGS the colour of the images change drastically.
View 1 Replies View Relatedthe record I am using Photoshop 7 (yes it's old, but it suits my needs just fine!) and Windows Vista Home Premium.What I do is take photographs of my artworks, edit them in Photoshop until they look accurate, then post them online. Images have always looked identical in every program, and I had never had any problems, until I got connected to the Internet on Tuesday. This computer has not been connected to the net for a good few years, and so lots of updates got installed. I'm not sure which ones exactly, as my boyfriend took care of that, but I'm convinced this has caused the problems I am having now:
First I found that an image I had edited and saved as .jpg for web use was showing up overly saturated and contrasty in the Windows Photo Gallery preview. I assumed I had saved it wrongly. I re-opened the jpg in Photoshop to check - it looked exactly as I had saved it. I figured something had messed up with Photo Gallery during updates, so I uploaded the jpg to the Internet. The image that uploaded was the overly-saturated, contrasty one.
After realising that suddenly ALL the images I had uploaded online, and all the images saved on my computer, now had this awful over-saturated look, and yet the thumbnails on my desktop looked fine... I realised it must be something to do with the colour profiles, and tried to find out the answer online. My monitor colour profile was set to "21.5 inch monitor" so I changed that to sRGB as default. I can't remember what Photoshop was set to, but at any rate I set it to sRGB also.
I thought I had it fixed, as it seemed to just be Photo Gallery that was not matching up (it was displaying my images with less saturation than as I saved them).However today I took a new photo of a drawing I'm working on, to load onto my blog. I had to take it into Photoshop to make edits and correct, as always. I opened my photo in Photoshop... lo and behold, far too contrasty and saturated!!
This time, Windows Photo Gallery preview is showing the (unedited, straight out of camera) photo as it should be... Photoshop opens it too contrasty.I made my edits anyway, saved for web as .jpg, checked the jpg in Photo Gallery before uploading... It saved duller than it should have done!
Uploaded the jpg to the internet... and I have the dull image uploaded.
So first they were too contrasty, now they're too dull. Being an artist who displays work online and has a certain reliance on the internet... my images have to be accurate and consistent all the way through. Is there anything I can do to set things back to the way they were before?
I have just moved over to Photoshop CS6 from Elements 10. One thing I can't work out how to do is to have PS automatically convert opened files to RGB, exactly like PSE does.
View 8 Replies View RelatedWhat is the best process to convert colour images to black & white using PSE11?
View 2 Replies View Relatedi would love to be able to create a single photoshop action for adding a border, plus a signature in the bottom right corner, that works for both portrait and landscape images.
need i say more?
i already have an action that adds a signature in the centre of the border at the bottom of the image e.g. the image below. what i want though is for that signature to be on the RHS and for the same action to work for portrait images as well.
supplementary info: reason for this is that I want to be able to export 300 wedding images (mix of landscape and portrait images) from lightroom in my pre-selected order (meaning the files are labelled from 001 to 300, ordered according to how the wedding day unfolded) and then use PS to add the border and the signature, in the same place, and for it to work for both orientations.
i need this to work for full sized exported jpeg images, i.e. i want the files that i give on CD to my clients to include my signature in this manner. so I don't want to copy the initial layer and then reduce the second layer size to leave a border around the second layer.
i hope i've been clear I think that this sort of presentation makes such a difference to final printed image, and I DONT want to have to go to all 300 images picking out the landscape from portrait ones (although this may be what I have to do and wouldn't really take that long but surely there's a better way!!!!).
how to create a greeting card using 2 images on a single sheet of 8x10 paper, then cutting sheet in half for 2 cards.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'd like to know if it's possible, and if so, how to do it..... in X5, to insert multiple images into their own single frames, at one time. Say I have images 1.jpg - 250.jpg, and I want all to be loaded into single frames... for an animation.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI can't seem to import all my raw images from D800 in a single shot. It imports a few and displays a box saying some of the images were not imported (gives me a range). Re-importing fetches a few more before the msg is displayed again. I have to repeat this several times (7-10) before all images (250) are imported.
View 2 Replies View RelatedThis video [URL]....be explains what I need best.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have created a hodge podge of directories with images in various locations. I want to re-organize all my images into the single location and organization in a logical directory structure. Now for my question. Would I be better off moving all my files into the new directory structure then create a new master catalog then import into the new catalog? I am wanting to develop and use import templates to better organize and document my images... btw, I am not opposed to upgrading v3 if this will make things easier... just haven't had a need as yet.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am trying to create colour samples of vector objects which I have initially drawn in a Purple shade card. Now I would like to have the same object in a blue shadecard and then a green shade card maintaining relationships between the colours in the different parts of the object.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI've selected around 300 images from an intial shoot of 1200. I've assigned a star to the selected 300 and developed a colour image of each. Now, I need to make a BW version of each of the 300 images
What is the simplest way to do this? I have tried to make virtual copies of the selected 300 and assign 2 stars to enable me to keep the original 300 in colour and work on the soon to be BW versions, but when I do this I can only make a single virtual copy at a time. I'm sure it must be possible to select all 300 at once, and make 300 virtual copies somehow.
Is there a simple video demonstrating this workflow somewhere?
I have hundreds of images that all have the same watermark (more or less but not exactly in the same place). It can easily be removed with the paint bucket with the default settings, the watermark is light grey, the pictures (JPGs) are black and white (a scanned book). But the sheer number of images makes it a gigantic effort to do it by hand.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI uploaded some mono images from my Canon EOS5D(2) taken with an orange filter. Previous uploads have been fine. This time, after showing the mono images in the catalogue they all convert spontaneously to orange images of various shades - and the images also show colours. The camera setting was correct, on checking, for mono uploads and, in any case, never a problem before. What have I done wrongly - and is there any rescue? Lightroom is v2.7.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've recently received a small batch of calendars from a local commercial printers. The colours are OK, but do not match the originals, especially the blue's. I've had similar problems with greetings cards from a different printer. The problem appears to be that I supply the original files in the RGB color space, but they print using CMYK.
I Raw process using Lightroom 4, with adjustments if necessary being made using Elements 10. To the best of my knowledge neither of these programs have the option of editing or saving in the CMYK color space. For more accurate colours is my only option to purchase the full version of Photoshop (CS6 or CC), then convert and colour correct my images in CMYK mode before sending to the printers ?.
Whenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).
I will like to find out the colour code for the background colour on a particular web address. Unfortunately I am new here so not allowed to post links so will say this as creatively as possible. the address is theregentlagos (with the usual prefix beginning with w and suffix beginning with c for all websites). I am referring to the colour where the menu items like logo, home, brands etc are on.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been asked to convert an image to 2 colour for printing. I have the image as a full colour CMYK layout (with layers), but the whole thing needs to be converted to 2 colour. I have the pantone reference numbers for the 2 colours it is to be converted to. I am familiar with the hue/saturation tool, but this just seems to convert it to one colour, and you have no fine control over the exact colour you want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have copied some colour negatives using my digital camera. What is the best procedure for removing the orange base colour of the film prior to converting them to positives?
View 9 Replies View RelatedHow do I see the object selected change colour dynamically as I adjust the colour sliders?
It seems the object only changes colour when I release the slider. But I want to see it dynamically change, so I can find the colour that works best without "hit or miss" - "trial and error" behaviour.
Yes... I'm aware some of you spend hours in colour programs creating a palette to work with. Good for you.
I'm just wanting to do it LIVE. Dynamically. In 2013. In Illustrator.
I'm just started using inventor 2013 (from 2010) & the way colours/materials are applied has completely changed so I'm learning again from scratch.
Here's my issue: A customer has sent a casting to me in Parasolid format. When I open it, all the unmachined surface are blue & look a bit garish. However, the colours of the machined faces are ok & I wish to keep them.
So, I want to chage all the surfaces that are blue - I can use the picker & select all the blue faces seperately (by holding CTRL down & select each face one be one) but this is a pain & takes ages (there are over 200 faces)
I can see & edit the blue color in the manager but how do I tell Inventor to replace all - can it be done?