Is there anyway to remove the glare from someones glasses? I had never taken pictures of someone before with glasses and there is a lot of glare on his glasses.
I'm going to have to remove the glasses from several images of people's faces.  Don't know if clone stamp tool would work best, or trying to select the glasses and using healing? Or are there new features that make this even simpler?
I am by no means very professiant in photoshop, but do know a thing or two. I took several pictures of my daughter (who wears glasses) and there is a black spot over one eye. I am assuming that it has something to do with glare from the flash on the glasses. I have photoshop elements 7.
I have a family photo with a lady wearing glasses. The photo was taken at night with a flash so there is a light reflection on the glasses causing the lady to have a bright white flash reflection on her glasses....
I ended up having a picture take with a point and shoot camera. What would be the best way to remove or at least look presentable to remove the glare from the glasses from one side? It is bad but I want this picture to be as good as I can get it.Â
a friend of mine took a picture of me with my favourit hockey player...she used the flash on my camera...i really wanna keep it...but there is a glare on my glasses and i need to remove it...i've attached the picture...
So, I messed up pretty badly today during an interview shoot. I'm not sure what I was thinking, but I felt rushed during setup and screwed up a few things -- including forgetting to turn on my shotgun mic, so I had to sync my external lav recording the hard(est) way.   The worst part, however, is that because I was in a basement I could not elevate my key light as much as I wanted, and it created a glare on the glasses of my subject. I had lined up the light and my seating while asking questions so it didn't reflect toward the camera, but it appears he shifted early in the interview and I didn't notice. Now, there are two white dots in his eyes the entire time. As if this wasn't bad enough, he frequently makes minor head movement that causes his entire lense to be blown out. It is incredibly distracting, and definitely not as engaging.  Re-shooting is not an option. Throwing out the interview is also not an option. Everything else about the shoot was great: the background, audio, lighting (besides the glare issue), responses, framing, etc.  How I can stylize or hide the glare. I understand that I won't be able to get rid of it, but was hoping at least a way to make it "work." I am not an expert with AE. In fact, I really just do color correction/grading and some minor text stuff, and that's it. I sometimes do motion tracking, but have no intention of tracking his eyes for an hour long interview. It would never work anyway, since he's an animated talker.  Using CS6. Shot it flat, indoors, brick wall background. Only issue is I can't darken the blacks too much as there is an iron wood stove to his side that is essential to the interview. If I shift the blacks too far it loses a lot of it's detail and just becomes a blob of nothing.Â
I discovered this "new" function on my camera today (just bought it recently and I'm still just playing around with it). A thingy called Multi-Shot where the camera takes 16 pictures in about 2 or 3 seconds and then makes it into a single image. Where you can see all the frames, which end up at a resolution of about 400*300 on the 7mp total resolution.
Is there any way possible to make photoshop automatically take my 16-pic multishot picture, take every single frame, crop it and save it as a separate image file? So I end up with 16 different pictures instead of one containing all the frames?
I want to make a mug shot of myself, but in black and white. and not black and white like b&w photography, but REALLY black and white, like this text.. that's as far as i've gotten w/ it. but i have no idea how to accomplish this. I got a book on photoshop "Photoshop WOW book" and so far i've learned a few things from it.. but would rather bypass some of the stuff in the book and jump right into what it is I'm wanting to do...
Photoshop CS3 won't let me paste in a screen shot anymore. I hit PrtScn, open Photoshop, create a new file (the file IS created at the size of the screen, which is a start), and hit paste and nothing happens. Edit/Paste is greyed out in the menu.
I can however, paste a screen shot into Word, and then copy and paste that into Photoshop, but Word does something to the colors in addition to creating an extra step in the process.
If I have two exposures of the same shot, i.e over and under exposed, how to combine the two so as to get most dynamic image possible. I have elements 2.
I created a thread asking for someone to make a logo for my band because I don't know very much about photoshop. Because I didn't read the rules the thread was closed. So I would like to show the logo I came up with,
I could really use some help. I have to work on a vergy large photo (a 2x2.5 metters print, in 300 dpi). Someone told me that I should work on a small version of the file, and then copy and paste the history from the small to the big file
The thing is: how do send the modifications from one file to another?
I've download Photoshop CS4 and running it in trial mode. When I use the brush tool for example, the delay in it actually printing on the paper after I click and drag is like 1-2 seconds. I have a pretty good PC, 2.4ghz @ quad.
creating very large digital artwork. I mean images that are around 3ft by 2ft at least, maybe upwards of 48" by 30".
Many layers, lots of depth going on, in the vein of lets say - Abstract digital art. I will also be creating these images not only at large image size but very high quality for Giclee and other printing purpose.
My question is, what sort of PC requirements should I consider for the most efficiency. As much RAM as possible? I am already looking into a 30" monitor just to give me as much real estate as possible. When working at images around 10,000 x 7,000 pixels I am already working at 12% image on a large monitor.
If money wasn't much of an option what would you go for/what considerations would you bring up?
2+Gigs of RAM over Dual/Quad Core processors. One large 30" monitor or perhaps Dual 24"? Massive HD space for the 300mb that each image will be when saving/storing.
i am working on colour-washing an A0 sized scanned architectural elevations drawing, nothing major, but the file size has now gone massive.
it started off as a scanned PDF of 2mb, which i converted to .PSD format and began bucket-filling area's with colour. the .PSD file is now 60mb, and i have flattened the image so there is only one layer?
the problem with it being 60mb is that our plotter hasnt got enough memory to print it.
and i have only coloured half of the drawing so far!
how can i reduce the file size but still keep it in .PSD format?
I am creating a 24"X18" Sign with text and simple graphics.
I set my canvas to 24X18 and the file size is over 2gb.
Should I be doing this in smaller scale to make the file sizes smaller? What happens when I send the file to the sign shop for printing? Will they need the full 24X18, or can I make it smaller but in a format that the print shop can blow up without sacrificing quality?
ALSO, I need to be able to send an example of the sign to my client by email. How can I make a downsized version with a small enough file size to email?
Does anyone have any advice on how to warp a logo to fit on a shot glass? I can't seem to get it so that it will curve and the writing still look straight on the glass.
I shot in RAW and opened with PSe 10. Did my edits and went to save in jpeg and the option was not available; only photoshop and tiff options were available. How can I save in jpeg? what about the file I am trying to save prevents a jpeg option?Â
I have a client who wants a 180cm print on their car of a photograph I took. My problem is that I can't save the file. First it had some problems with re sampling the image, but I changed so it used the external hard drive as well. The problem was something with the hard drive not having enough space even though the was more than enough. I'm using Photoshop CC. Â Now the problem is that I don't have enough RAM. I have the 8gb of the best RAM out there. I've also tried with a best upgraded iMac 27 (late 2012), but it didn't work. The file is 1,87gb. I would need a super computer to be able to save that file and I doubt the client will be able to open it.Â
I'm used to working with older versions of Photoshop CS, where I 'just save' exr with no options. This previously resulted in file sizes half that of .hdr. In this latest version if I choose to save uncompressed (which I assumed the old versions of Photoshop did?) the file size is a good 10x larger than they used to be. If I save as zlib or wavelet, they're similar size (a fair bit less than a .hdr). Â What did the old Photoshop use for compression? Or how can I find out? I don't remember my old exrs taking so long to compress and save either (with zlib) but I might be wrong.