Photoshop :: How Do You Identify Altered Images? [NUDITY WARNING]
Jun 8, 2008
So I guess my question is for those of you who are experienced with re-touching or image editing, so here goes I have some images and im trying to tell if they have been edited in as far as being able to know with some degee of certainty if in fact the image has been altered.
I guess Im asking for some tips/hints on what to look for and if there is any tell tale signs of editing that would indicate that yes the image has been altered, now I know that there is no way to restore the images to thier originl content but if I could tell if the images have been edited that would be good enough in this case..
How do I put images that have been altered in PS together with my images altered in LR4 to make a slideshow. They are currently sitting in LR in 2files and I simply don't know how to combine them
I'm using Lightroom 5.3. I'm importing images to my catalog from one external drive to another using the "copy" function. I have "do not import suspected duplicates" checked, but Lightroom does not identify duplicate jpg images as such and lists them as new files to import. If I import these images they show up in my database/catalog with the -2 designation. The images are identical in filename, capture time, size and EXIF info. I have tried removing my preferences file and starting another but that doesn't change the behavior. I have seen other posts with similar issues but cannot find a solution that works for me. I don't see this listed as a bug either.
I sometimes go through my images in a randome order, adjusting the most promising and then going back to some of the others later. I'd love a way to isolate those images that I haven't touched, so that I can quickly find them and finish them up.
I tried a Smart Collection eliminating recent images that had been cropped or "adjusted". That should have done it. However, Lightroom doesn't consider local adjustments like the paint brush or gradient filter to be adjustments, so those images remain in the collection, even though I have "adjusted" them with a local filter or brush.
Is there any way to isolate images that have not been adjusted in any way?
I like this painting with texture technique stuff. Have worked (and learned) alot on this one, so I am maybe to close to judge the quality of it.
Cant explain to you the process except I used a texture for crocodile skin, a texture for lizard skin and a lot of different brushes and sizes as well as 5 layers. I still dont have a handle on the differances between all the brush modes like overlay, linear burn, color dodge etc.....
If u have ever seen those spray painted galls , plz post a tutorial on how to do that. I mean any mag out there has some form of softening or spray painting going on, especially womens health mags... Are there tools u have to buy? Im more interested in finding out how to do it from scratch.
I added a filter to my video but it only lasts for a few frames. There are little marks shown where I added it in the Altered Video section of the timeline. How do I apply a filter or effect to the entire clip?
Also when I ad a filter such as Lens Correction, it only lasts for a few frames..How do I get it to remain?
I've got a 30 second piece of video in which a logo on a wall needs to be erased. I used the patch tool and it did a wonderful job, but only on the first frame of the clip.
I have been using Video Studio Pro x2 for several years to edit and burn DVDs from the edited material with no problems. But for the last several months the burning process stops at the end of the VOB (whatever that is) but the blank disc is altered so it is unusable. It says that the Corel softwart has encountered a problem and has to close. I send a message every time but nothing comes of it. Another recurring problem is that it keeps telling me that the program will take a long time to burn even though I have checked the box to not show this message again.
The only way I have found to get the software to perform properly is to remove and reinstall the soft ware. Normal operation lasts for about four discs and the problem reoccurs. I have cleaned the hard drive of unnecessary files, etc. All my security updates are current.
I used this software on my previous two computers with no problems at all despite a much smaller Hard Drive, slower motherboard and much less memory.
I recently change the volume of a part thinking that it would change the actually size of it. It didn't effect the size at all and now I don't know what the actual volume of the part is anymore. How do I find out the part's actual volume?
I have Photoshop CS5 on a Mac OS 10.7.4 My problem is that when I am using curves or a slider, my selection does not stay in the same place. For example, I chose the number 8 on a slider, after I release my selection it will either go one number after or before my selected number. I have had this problem since I got my computer, December 2011, but it has only recently started to frustrated me because of having to use Photoshop a little more than I usually do.
I'm new to photoshop. Why did some of my altered pictures not show up in the file? They appear as a blue file with PSD on it. You can see the pictures when you click on them in Photoshop elements 10 but not in your file.
There are many choices and im trying to copy the letters so is there a program that i dentifies font/text/arial etc etc. When i say copy i mean type so that it looks exactly like the letters that were there previously.
Photoshop posts a failure notice that the GeForce GTX 295 is outdated and unsupported. Newest driver has been updated. I have installed the script to allow Photoshop to talk to older video cards with no prevail. Open GL settings are dimmed aswell.
This function is working properly in os x, however on windows when I right click within the canvas I only get a list of all the layers under the mouse,historically since as far back as I can remember since photoshop had layers (rev 3.0 in 1995?) when you right click in windows within the canvas, you get a list of all the layers under your mouse, with the uppermost layer highlighted for easy identification and location of the contents of your layers. I've run all patches and updates and have even uninstalled/re-installed CS6.
I am a huge fan of this photographer and over the years these same lens flares are in her work. I know they are not natural because they are the same in several photographs. I would love to know where I can find these!
You can see them here, in the header image but also if you scroll down to the blog entry, the first image has a nice clear example.
I am trying to transfer my Elements 9 data files from a PC to an iMac. My attempt to generate a backup file from the PC keeps stopping at about the 85% point with a message saying "faulty file". Is there a technique I can use to locate this "faulty file"?
can a watermark stay the same size even when an image size is altered? say if its text and it gets too big when i enlarge the image how do i shrink the watermark ? when it is already merged and flattened as one picture without a separate layer.
such as a php or java script to keep the watermark distinct in a way even in a flattened pic or to select the watermark to erase it and re-apply it in the right font size back onto the resized pic?
The Canon 6D produces HDR photos from 3 intermediate pictures, and it discards the intermemdiates. The exif data on Lightroom (5) does not seem to identify the HDR photos, and I cannot find any other way to get Lightroom to identify HDR photos. The HDR photos are generally recognizable, visually, but it would still to have Lightroom identify them.
1. I'm using CS1 and have installed my printer profile. I assume this will show me what the colors will look like when I convert the photo to the printer's color space (to do this I usually choose IMAGE - MODE -CONVERT TO PROFILE Why then when I turn on the Gamut Warning, does it show that there are colors out of gamut?
2.When I load a photo with an embedded profile and I choose the option of USE THE EMBEDDED PROFILE INSTEAD OF THE WORKING SPACE do I still need to go to PROOF SETUP and choose the printer profile to see the colors as they will look when printed? Or is this doubling-up on the conversion process. I would have thought that choosing the printer profile to proof a photo that has already been converted to the printer color space should not show any difference. Unfortunately it does, so I'm not sure which is the accurate one.
I have the layers tab open in my toolbox, so I can see all the layers listed. I'm wondering if there is a fast way to find a layer. I'd like to click on my image and (ideally) see the layer highlighted in the toolbox, so I don't have to search for it.
I have recently undertaken to run a serious test of LR 1.2--as I did with previous versions-- to see if it was at the stage of development where it would improve my workflow over my present applications. Most everything is much better than before, but I have discovered a killer bug.
I work in a group of four other photographers. We are constantly mixing and matching images from our various DBs/shots for client presentations, frequently mixing shots already in a DB with some that are recent and not yet DBed In the end, of course, we want one DB that incorporates all our collective images. This arrangement lends itself to imports that often will contain duplicates of given, uniquely identified, images.
I discovered that even with the box checked to not import duplicates, that LR is hopelessly inconsistent in stopping the import of absolutely identical files with absolutely identical names, extensions, metadata, etc.
As a test, I imported a set of 50 images--various formats, etc--all of which were in LR already. I ran the test three times. The first test resulted in LR identifying 3 dups, the second test 17 dups, and the third 13 dups. I also tried this test using images that were in two separate LR catalogues--identical in every respect. LR did not identify even one duplicate image of the fifty in this case.
I was creating a digital scrapbook page this morning, and as I went to save, CS6 crashed without warning (as it does 50% of the time for me when I have a project I am working on). Usually, I go to save, or open a new file to work with and the whole program just shuts off on me without a word. It is simply there one second and gone the next. If I am lucky, it has recovered something of what I have done in the past 10 minutes. HOWEVER today, it crashed, and when I opened it back up, it recovered half of what I had done and immediately crashed again, giving me this error message:
Problem signature: Problem Event Name: APPCRASH Application Name: Photoshop.exe Application Version: 13.0.1.0 Application Timestamp: 5022da9d Fault Module Name: ntdll.dll Fault Module Version: 6.1.7601.17725 Fault Module Timestamp: 4ec4aa8e Exception Code: c0000005 Exception Offset: 0000000000027b11 OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3 Locale ID: 1033 Additional Information 1: 9e05 Additional Information 2: 9e057b49cc84a2b32beb0976b9fa1666 Additional Information 3: 9357 Additional Information 4: 9357da59a0d0124ba1ff6db7da3265ac
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This is the first time I have had this happen with an error message. Usually it just closes up altogether and I have to reopen and redo my projects from wherever the last save point was. I have my recovery set to 10 minutes because I seem to lose my files so often when trying to save. This is getting a bit ridiculous and I did NOT have this problem even one time with the CS6 Beta.
