Photoshop Elements :: Does Depth Of Field Effect Adversely Affect Cloning Tool
Dec 5, 2012
For whatever reason(s), after applying the 'Depth of Field' effect, the cloning tool no longer works properly. If I open another image, the tool works just fine but if I return to the image where the 'Depth of Field' was applied, the 'clone' no longer stays after the mouse button is released. That is, the effect seems to be temporarily applied under the brush and immediately disappears when the brush is moved or the mouse button is released?
The depth of field tool is not working in my copy of Elements 12. Trying to use "Simple" mode after having sucess using this on a friends computor. I can add blur but the gradient tool has no effect??
I found a video tutorial on how to make a depth of field effect from a photo. However, the video quality was so bad I couldn't even see what they were doing and clicking on.
Any process or where I can look for step by step instructions to achieve this effect?
I get black blobs whenever I drag my cursor to mark the area specified to be in focus. Am I missing a setting to make that blackened area invisible? When I click "done" the part of the photograph to be in focus is still covered with black.
When I use the gradient tool in simple depth field in photoshop element 10 my whole image unblurs even when I chose a smal area to focus. It used to work well before but for one reason or another, it stopped. I uninstalled my program and that didn't fix the problem.
I took that picture earlier today. the problem is that the background looks to fake. like there no depth of field between the people and the background. i have attached another picture showing that there depth of field between the person face and the bricked background.
how to create "Depth of field" in photographs but the effect is not really what I want.In all of the tutorials they create two layer and blur one of them, then apply a mask and gradient it to create the effect of dof. This is not what I wan't because it does't make the scene gradually more blurry, it only creates an extremely blurry layer and applies it gradually.
So what I'm looking for is a filter or plugin that gradually increases the strength of a blur using a mask.
I just contacted Photomatix concerning this issue. They have developed the HDR plugin, which takes a series of bracketed exposures and picks the best portions of each to produce a composite of the best exposures for each area of the scene.
Now I want to find an equivalent program which accepts a sequence of images taken at varying hyperfocal distances in order to produce an image with a larger than expected depth of focus. The alternative would be simply to select the best, in-focus portions of each exposure and combine them for the desired result.
Photomatix thought that Photoshop CS4 has a capability in this regard.
Have you ever wanted to make a photo seem to have shorter depth of field? Prior to Photoshop CS6 this was no small feat to achieve digitally and end up with a pleasing and visually believable result.
Photographers know that setting the aperture wide can change the mood of a shot completely. Sometimes getting the DOF just right can make the difference between an "also ran snapshot" and an award winning photograph.
With today's smaller digital sensors - and even with big sensors if too small an aperture is available - sometimes we get an image that's exposed right, that's composed well, that's caught the moment. More of it is sharp than we'd like, and the background or foreground is simply distracting.
Enter the new Photoshop CS6 blur filters.With the Tilt-Shift variant, one can progressively blur pixels based on a definable gradient/mask, so that we get that familiar progressive front-to-back blur change.
Armed with this powerful new capability, and with the subject masking/separation facilities we've had for a couple of versions now, this becomes possible:
1. Separate subject from surroundings with a good mask - e.g., quick select, refine edge, make a new layer with just the parts you want to remain sharp showing on it. A good mask isn't difficult to make any more! Hide this layer when done.
2. Remove the subject, at least around the edges, from the background layer underneath, e.g., by selecting using the above mask, expanding the selection, and doing Content Aware Fill and/or Cloning. This is important because in the subsequent blur operation we don't want parts of the sharp subject blurring into the background. That just looks weird.
3. Use Photoshop CS6's Tilt-Shift Blur to visually shorten the DOF in the background layer, with the center point and unblurred region set to coincide with the position of the subject in the shot. Adjust the settings to taste, which isn't as much of a crap shoot any more since the blurs actually update in real time on screen.
4. Make the layer above visible, maybe do some things with the lighting (which is fairly easy, now that subject is separated from the background), and voila, a whole new feel to the photo.
I understand that there is a method to increase Depth of Field for a static subject at reasonable magnification, (say a dragonfly at X1), by taking a number of pictures, each focussed at different points along the length of the image, and then combining in photoshop and possibly (?) blending.
Or would it be better to place them in layers and progressively erase the out of focus areas.
I'm still learning after effects and having fun with it. I'm just curious about something. Is there a way to eliminate the depth of field with particles? Example: When I zoom out with the camera in CC particle world, the particle (energy wave I create) goes blurry. Is the depth of field a default option? Cause when I create a camera the depth of field is off.
Photoshop's 3D rendering offers us the ability to create imagery that's virtually perfect. It even allows us to specify the depth of field, from infinite, to reasonably short.
My question to you is this: Does shortening the depth of field increase or reduce the visual impact of a rendering? I offer these examples for you to judge:
I can't quite decide which I like better. The one that's sharp edge-to-edge seems a bit more like eye candy, but the one with the short DOF seems maybe more realistic. On the other hand, blurring things always feels a bit like hiding imperfection, when in this case it's hiding perfection.
I only had Adobe Photoshop for about 2 months now. I have been using the Low Key tool in guided alot. Here recently I went to edit a photo and my reduce effect button tool will not work. I tried everything from restarting my computer and the program. I love using this tool but I can not get the reduce effect to work.
It seems the Sharpen effect in Premiere Pro CC is not 32-bit, however based on this [URL] , it should not affect the colors. Can we get a confirmation that indeed applying this effect on a 4:2:2 10bit ProRes project will not crush the bit-depth of the colors?
I've loved and used my cloning tool for years. All of a sudden I went to apply it and it would be grainy or splattery (new word) on the edges. I changed by brush types an everything, but with no success. I even undated to the newest version of PHotoshop, but still can't get it to work.
I am trying to darken/sharpen a .PDF scan of an old blueprint drawing using the Curves tool, but the drawing only appears edited in the preview screen and reverts back to its original appearance once I hit OK. What do I need to do to get the changes to stay?
I've never encountered before. I am using the cloning tool in CS5 and I am trying to stamp clone one part of the photo and clone it to another part of the photo. The problem is that after I option click and then drag it to the part I need, dark spots show up instead? I am running Photoshop CS5 for Mac with the latest updates.
I want to clone just using one place. I do not want the clone thingy to follow my cursor as I attempt to clone an area, I just want it in one place (stationary),
I am trying to remove some wires in front of a complex background. (I tried a different spot for the photo, but didn't really work....so I was stuck with the wires.) Anyway, apart from just zooming way in and using the clone tool, do I have any options with smart cloning or healing? I searched the PSPX5 file for smart and heal etc., but didn't find anything.
In Camera Raw7.3 there is (at the bottom) a switch depth 8/16 bit. Which one should I choose when working with Raw images? I have Canon powershot s110 at the moment.
I have a Gateway 500SE PC, Home XP, Nikon View 6.0.0, Photoshop Elements 1.01. I have a Nikon D100 camera. When I import a Nef uncompressed file into Elements it gives me an error box...Unsupported Color Depth. I must change these pictures to a supported color depth. This takes too much time to change every picture in a folder when you want to make a contact sheet What is this and how do I fix it?
Can an item of 1 Bit depth have layers which can be copied or duplicated. My 1 Bit item is partially locked and the layer menu does not permit any operations.
My users are able to fill out a form and save it as a PDF onto their computers. They can re-open it and the data they entered is visible, however when they choose to print the document, the field data does not print.
