Photoshop :: Creating Game Textures From Photographs
May 20, 2003
I'm trying to make some textures for a 3d game with a digital camera.
If you look straight at a wall, and take a picture of it, it will be most likely that the edges of the wall won't all have the same color, because of lighting.
I have no problem getting the perspective and size of the texture right - my problem is getting the shades of the texture even, so that the final texture is seamless (i.e. if you place them next to / above each other, you get the illusion of looking at one image, and not a bunch of squares which don't fit together nicely).
Do some of you have some tips on what I can do to get rid of my problem? Is there some way to "even out" a specified color range? Do some of you maybe know some tutorials on the web which discuss this (I haven't found any )?
I make game textures. What I want to know is if there is a plugin that can create an alpha fade? So that, lets say, on the left side remains no alpha, but heading toward the right is a gradual fade into alpha.
The regular transparency plugin allows either the entire image or a selection within the image to become alpha. A way to simulate this is to make an image half black and half white.
Next select gaussian blur to have both sides bleed into each other from white to black then click black to alpha plugin in and that creates a fade from white to alpha. An alpha fade from the white to the black side of the image.
But I was hoping that there is a plugin that could ignore colors and create a gradual shift into alpha from one side of the selection to the other.
I'm trying to create a skybox (basically, a giant hollow cube that goes around a map to give the impression of a sky) for a game.
However, I don't know how to create a good sky and such that fits within the template and looks smooth all around.
Basically, the template is as follows: (note: this isn't actually the template. Each side is uploaded individually. The template is to show the wrapping.)
So how would I create a good, realistic sky that wouldn't look messed up at the corners or not matching up at the top or such?
I was wondering how it is posssible to create monochrome image of a person, where the background is reduced to entirely white, and the person is converted to an entirely black silhouette?
I am working on a 3D object (a bus) and want to add a deep metal color on it! I don't know how to make a texture so I get that nice metal color! I am going to paint the bus red and some other color but I get lost in all effects etc!I How I continue after adding a red color on the texture so I get it to look like a nice deep metal color!
My i1/X-Rite shows a table, after profiling, of the color numbers set in RGB, the color numbers expected in LAB, and the color numbers measured after profile/cal, again in LAB. One of the numbers with the greatest difference between Expected and Measured out is pure Red, set as 255,0,0 in RGB. The measured error value is, in percentage, 1.14%. Now here's where it get curious.
When I open PS and set a Color fill for 255.0.0 RGB, the resulting LAB is nowhere's near the one's indicated in the table as “Expected” as below:
X-Rite Table RGB= 255,0,0 LAB Expected: L 56 A 80 B 66
Photoshop Fill RGB set to 255,0,0 LAB Numbers L 61 A 127 105.
If I set the Expected LAB values, in Photoshop, of course, RGB is not 255,0,0 and to see what the differences are, I did both sets of LAB values, set one image as a layer over the other and went to Difference. The result was a muddy green, like old pea soup.
In case you are wondering why I am doing this, it's because on a particular image with ample dry grass in the image, the difference between the print and the screen is noticeable, if on the subtle side, so I make a correction using Selective Color, Picking the middle gray and moving the Cyan slider -3, which then produced a print extremely close to the screen; -2 would be better.
It would be nice if all I had to do is to save this Selective Color setting and use it when I print on my basic paper. It may also simply mean I should profile the printer as well, and I will do so. But it nags me to see what X-Rite calls pure Red and Photoshop shows as pure Red, both set at 255,0,0!
I am trying to create a keyboard layout sheet for a game. I already sliced a blank keyboard image and now I want to add text to each button. I tried to do this with dreamweaver by converting the hole image to a html table, but this didn't work out. So I started dragging text boxes which snap to the slices. This seems to be a good solution but how align the text vertically into the box? I want to put the text exactly in the middle. I would also like to create a margin all around the box. I can post an image clarification would be necessary. Did anybody do this before, could you post a picture?
The pic on the right shows what I'd like to change. Problem is the borders can be tedious to do one line at a time. That is brush set at 1 pixel wide-dark gray. Then draw one map line. Then change to light gray to do center of line then draw right next to other line without messing alignment up. Then finally going back to dark gray to draw once again to other side of border line.
What would take a pro 5 minutes because he would know the shortcuts would take me hours to do these map changes. So could anyone tell me how to create a custom brush 3 pixels wide that would have the center pixel be lighter gray while the outer 2 pixels of line would be darker. I know how to use color picker to match with what's already in the game so you could skip that. I would just like to know how to create a custom brush that could do multiple colors in one stroke. I'm using XP and CS2 BTW. If anyone would like the targa files that make up these 3 regions in the game to mess around with I will send them.
I am a game coder/artist using 3ds Max. To date, I have used very simplistic methods of making character skins. I need to step it up a notch and start making more realistic (human) skin textures for humans models in this game I'm working on.
I have been searching the web for several days on this topic and finding little luck. Here are the problems I am encountering:
1. Most skin tutorials for cgi I've found are for high-res, pre-rendered images in Max or Maya ,and not for games. They use several shaders and bump maps and complex multi-texturing that I cannot use in a game.
2. I found one fairly decent skin making tutorial but it used a clouds effect that really only works for light-skinned characters. I tried to modify for darker skin characters and it looks really bad.
3. In general, I have not found much for this at all on the web.
I would like to convert in-game terrain (from whatever game) to an elevation map, so that I can use it in a program like Vue to generate a 3D terrain. Basically, I'd be flying above the game terrain and taking snapshots, and would like to know what's the usual approach to convert these snapshots into elevation data in Photoshop.
I understand the basic concept of how a grayscale image translates to elevation, but am having difficulties grasping how the grayscale version of my snapshots would translate in proper elevation information.
I want to build a mine-tunnel for a mine-cart game. So I thought of creating three tunnelframes for the motion. I attached those three different wall elements I've got:
decke 1, decke 2, decke 3
I tried a couple of times to align them, but the result is just not right. I can't get them in the same shape (frame1, frame2, frame3).
I can't really get three frames done so that it looks like you're moving forward in a mine-tunnel. Is my approach just wrong? how I could get three frames done in psd?
I am trying to make a mobster themed game, consisting out of puzzles. Every puzzle has the same background, which i am making at the moment.
The idea was a bricked wall, a bit cracked and with bullet holes. I got the brick wall, but i cant seem to get it to look more "real" also the cracks in the wall don't look realistic. For the bullet holes i bought some extra pencil sets. But i cant get the desired effect.
I know you can pixelate with Filter / Pixelate / Mosaic, but for some reason images I put through this filter don't look like old 80's/90's video game graphics. Not sure if it's the pixelating itself, or - more likely - the number of colors being used.Is there a plugin out there specifically designed to make an image look like it came straight out of an old video game?
I use the Magnetic Lasso in CS to guide a line along the edge of the backdrop between the ground and the sky. It takes time and can be a pain if there are trees. Then I create another layer and place in a more agreeable sky.
Question. Is this the only way to effect the solution to the problem above. I have tried the magic wand and in reality it is more of a problem.
do level design and/or design anything for the Source Game Engine. For those of you who do, here is a new series of videos I've started to walk you through the steps it takes to get 3ds Max setup to properly export your levels into the Source Game Engine.
basic Max setup (proper units setup, snapping to grid, etc) and end up with exporting your level, building concave models, lighting and more. I've taken the approach of walking you through the process, pointing out tips to make the process efficient. Since there are a lot of tutorials online that already go into the technicality of various Source tools (Hint brushes for example).
I have been modeling a Wheel for a game mod and here recently my wireframe view on my viewports has been screwed up.. the sizing on the wireframes is like 3x the size they used to be and i cant find anything to reset them to normal.
I'm playing a racing and I'd like to screenshot my cars, or some of them, and cut them out to a transparent background.
So I want to be able to take the car out of the picture, with a tracer pen (if possible). I used to know how to do this awhile back but I done and forgot how after stopping making signatures and stuff.
Is it possible to create a 3D composite photograph of a person using photoshop?
My 13-year-old wants to design her own clothes, for which she wants to create a 3-D dummy of herself. She was asking me today whether a series of full-length photos of her standing motionless on a revolving platform, could be combined using Photoshop (or some other program to make a 3D composite image. (I own Creative Suite 2.)
I have an Epson 2200, Photoshop CS2, monitor calibrated with Spyder PRO, using epson profiles to print on a given media, followed the directions on www.computer-darkroom.com. My prints aren't even clsoe to what I see on the screen. I have no idea what else to try. Colors are completly washed out and the print is significantly darker, making the shadow areas loose their details.
I have Photoshop 7 and need help in printing out photos (I am a new user). After I have edited the photos I want to print them out on glossy paper using an Avery form number.
The image is 2560 x 1920 pixels, when i check image size in photoshop the image is 90.31 cm x 67.73 cm. The image is opening at this size by default, as i have been using a 5mg pixel camera to take the photograph.
Using the bicubic sharpen option I am simply reducing the image size to 60cm x 45cm, but when i am printing off test strips, there is still alot of pixelation.
I would presume that because i am reducing the size of the image that there would be less pixelation but this doesnt seem to be the case. Is there anything that i am doing wrong or could do to ammend this?
Is there any other way of reducing the size of the image, while still retaining the quality?
