I have 10 images that are same shape and size and i must transform them all to different shape that is very complicated, can i somehow transform one and then transform them all the same way as first one?
I cant just group select and transform because i need to use Wrap filter.
I have 10 images that are same shape and size and i must transform them all to different shape that is very complicated, can i somehow transform one and then transform them all the same way as first one?
I cant just group select and transform because i need to use Wrap filter.
I have 10 images that are same shape and size and i must transform them all to different shape that is very complicated, can i somehow transform one and then transform them all the same way as first one?
I cant just group select and transform because i need to use Wrap filter.
Problem: Transform applied to Smart Object fails to transform an attached Smart Filters Mask.
I mean a Transform, including Free Transform, as found in the Edit menu. A simple move by the Move Tool is OK.
A workaround until this bug is squashed is to encapsulate the Smart Object + Smart Filters + Filter Mask inside another Smart Object and transform that.However, that will not be a satisfactory solution in some cases. If a filter has size parameter(s), e.g. Gaussian Blur radius, a scaling or warping/distorting transform applied after the filter will obviously differ from the filter applied after the transform.
In any case, the workaround is inconvenient to subsequent editing and experimenting with filters and masks.
Is there a way I can apply a psd to many pictures at the same time? I've been trying some watermark programs but they didn't work... I want to keep the transparency from the psd on the pics
Some my .psd files (CS6 Photoshop, MAC OSX 10.7.5, Processor: 2.5 GHz Intel Core i7) automatically resize to a percentage. I can't figure out what the cause is, and it will not allow me to change it back to 100% to slice out images for web.
File Type is .psd - RGB 8 bit/color Fie Dimensions are 1400px by 10,800px. File Size is 60MB
The file is extremely slow to open and adjust anything within the file as well, not sure if the issue is related. I am working off of my desktop not off of a server.
In Photoshop CS6, I have Shape Layer B clipped (ctrl alt G) by Shape Layer A. SL-B has a color fill different from SL-A, and has 50% opacity. Is there a way to automatically make every new Shape Layer drawn to have the same transparency and fill color as SH-B, and should also be clipped by SH-A?
When I select SL-A and then draw a new shape layer, it copies the fill color of SL-A and is clipped automatically. When I select SL-B and then draw a new shape layere, the new layer copies SL-B's fill color, but not the transparency, and it is also not clipped.
explain the inconsistencies I am having with automatic color in CS6 updated on a Mac with OS Mountain (latest version)?
1. A screen-capture of 4 separate images - they are in 4 separate layers
The 5th layer of "Copyright Do Not Copy" does not affect automatic color!
2. An entire working PS screencapture
3. If I use Image >> Automatic Color on 1 layer at a time, the images go blue (cold)
4. A second Image >> Automatic Color illustrating the cold automatic correction
5. a. If I Layer >> Merge Layers or Layers >>Flatten Image b. Image >> Automatic Color I get a slight color correction as I would expect.
6. If I use the any of the identical images from the first image at the top then Image >>Automatic Color, it goes cold (Blue)
If I keep all 4 images together without any white area between them or around them and then Image >>Automatic Color the correction again like # 5 is only a slight color correction.
Why the inconsistencies in Image >> Automatic Color in these different settings,but all of the same images
I just noticed that Adobe is downloading ExtendScript Toolkit 2 on my computer automatically. I only have Lightroom and CS3. Do I need to have this on my computer?
I have a big picture project coming up, and i need to finnish to retouch a large amount of images a day. This means it would be nice to have a function that would open the next picture in line when the one im finished with is closed, or something similar and effective like this.
I have a big picture project coming up, and i need to finnish to retouch a large amount of images a day. This means it would be nice to have a function that would open the next picture in line when the one im finished with is closed, or something similar and effective like this.
I did something when using the grid and now Extras defauls on with each image load. I have to do a CTR H after loading a new image to turn it off. Anyone know how I can set it back to default off.
I'm not sure how this started, but whenever I create a new adjustment layer, it automatically comes with a clipping mask to the layers below it. If I run an action with adjustment layers, all are clipped to the masks below them. I've looked for toggle switches in the preferences and elsewhere (with no luck) for a way to turn off this feature.
I just got a Nikon D800E and on my first day of shooting I noticed a hot pixel spot in my images in Bridge. The when I opened the files in ACR, the hot pixel spot was gone. Apparently this is a "feature" of ACR: it automatically replaces hot pixels with RGB values from neighboring pixels. (So those of you who think you have no hot pixels, think again - you might be shielded from the truth! I find this fact very disconcerting, but that's a separate issue...).
The problem is that I can't tell how many hot pixels there are. Based on the image in Bridge, it would have to be spot of 20 - 30 pixels (maybe even more). That's unacceptable to me, especially on a $3300 camera. Sure, maybe a few hot pixels spread around the image, but 20-30 bunched in that one spot, that's unacceptable.
However, I can't figure out how to disable the automatic hot pixel correction in ACR, so I don't know if the issue really is 20 - 30 hot pixels or if Bridge is just doing some type of sub-sampling that makes the problem look a lot worse than it is. Furthermore, this concerns me greatly because I've been using a D200 for many years and have never seen a single hot pixel issue. So that says to me that the sensor on my D800E has a bigger hot pixel issue than it should (I realize all sensors have some hot/dead pixels).
How to go about figuring this out? The simplest solution is to disable the automatic hot pixel correction in ACR, but I can't figure out how to do that. I'm guessing it's not possible.
Given some hand drawings which are firmly black on white background (no greys of any kind), is it possible to somehow (in CS5 for Mac) to crop an image in such a fashion that a specified amount of white space is left around the drawings? I.e., determine a 'bounding box' for the drawing and then enlarge it by so much in either direction, then crop?
you know if it's possible to scale a image in differente sizes automatic. f.e. I have a image 1200x2000 an I would like to get 3 new images like 800x1000, 500x700 and 350x500 AUTOMATIC and without programming. It would be possibe with photoshop?
I have a couple of photos of the sun (700 to be exact) that I'm trying to crop. Doing it manually on each one would be very tedious and so I found the automatic script of Crop & Straighten.
However, even though it does a good crop when I batch process all my snaps using an action with the crop & straighten within it, the photos are also straightened or rotated in this case. Is there any way to avoid the straightening part to work on the images and just use the tool to crop the images automatically ?
I use to work with PS Elements 11 but now consider changing to CS6 since PSE11 photo merge does only use maximum of 3GB memory, means I can not merge more than maximum 3 pictures at the time. I tried CS6 which , however, does it properly. But it does not seem to have the AUTOMATIC FILLING OPTION PS11 consist of. Is this true or do I have to use certain settings?
When I am working in Photoshop CS, I often use the 'F' command to isolate an image in the middle of a gray space. However, if one selects the image with the selection or crop tool, a too rigourous gesture suddenly causes Photoshop to slide the image away, so then only a part will still be visible. As long as this function is in effect, there seems to be no way to get the entire image centered again in order to determine the crop precisely. Does anyone know how to solve this?
I have a requirement to take a relatively simple technical line drawing (think circuit diagrams etc) that have been hand drawn and then somehow convert them into a nice sharp and neat diagram that looks like it had been done in illustrator or Visio.
I know that image editing tools such as Illustrator allow you to "vectorize" a bitmap image but the thing I don't about is whether any of the applications can automatically straighten and correct lines and give me a "nicer" picture as a result?
Does anyone know if this sort of thing is even possible?
When I download pictures into Photoshop 6 - the program immediately starts "fixing" red eye. As a result I ended up with black spots on some of the photos. I would like to turn off the auto feature and fix the red eye pics myself. How do I turn off the auto red eye fix feature?
I purchased Elements 10 and I need to permanently turn off the automatic backup option. I went to preferences and unchecked the "backup is on" but it keeps turning itself on again. It keeps telling me to purchase more storage. I already backup all my photos on a separate hard drive, and don't need to purchase more storage so Photoshop can do it also. I need a way to permanently turn off the automatic backup option.
I'm need to get the stripes to bend like in the photo. I tried it once with skew transformation, using it couple of times, step by step, but it did not look that smooth.
So is there a way I can do it? I have no clue how, if at all, it can be done.
Currently testing Photoshop CS (for MacOSX) and i've knowticed that the 3D transform filter has been removed. Does anyone have any clue where i can get it from; other than the CD.
When doing architectural photography, its often desired to have motion blur on the people so as to obscure their faces. Unfortunately it needs to look realistic, and I've just been doing it by hand, but it seems like there should be an automatic way when you have two images like this:
Obviously I am able to do this by hand somewhat decently, but that's not what I'm after. I want a way to do automatic motion blur, and I want the trails to look realistic.