This isn't *exactly* PS related, but it does involve pictures that I would like to be able to open in PS.
Years ago, in high school, I took several hundred B&W photos over the course of a few years. I still have all the negatives. Is it possible to get them converted to hi-res JPEGs for a more preferable (to me) storage? If so, where is a good place to get this done?
i want draw a 35mm or 120 mm camera film with his wrap, but im beginner. is somewhere any tutorial how do it? any link help me, film isnt problem but crepy wrap...
View 11 Replies View RelatedI am batch scanning 35mm slides 15 at a time using an Epson 1680. I have been playing with the various dpi's and scale to find the best settings so I can cut the slides and paste them into Powerpoint for a lecture. What I have been finding is that when I cut the slide from the scanned image (of 15 in the holder) and place it in my powerpoint slide and then enlarge it, it is too blurry.
I have tried enlarging the dpi to 2400 but the computer won't scan it. I seem to get OK images in powerpoint at 90dpi and 800% scale but I really want them sharper.
How can I do this? Is it best to scan the slides individually and not use the holder?
More importantly, although the slides look OK on my laptop how will they look when they are projected onto the big screen. I do't want them to be too blurry.
I am using the Nikon Super CoolScan8000 and Vuescan program to scan a slide film. I am scanning at this setting: scan resolution 4000 dpi. I have to make it a certain dimension that someone has been asking me for. They want the image at Width = 60cm (approx. 23 inches) and 300 dpi.
When I scan at 4000 dpi, I'm not sure what size to make the printed width. I have experimented numerous times and I've had no luck with getting exactly what I want. It seems that when I make the width 60 cm (the height adjusts proportionately) and the dpi at 300, the quality is not that great, which it definitely needs to be because it will be printed at a large size.
PS I am using Adobe Photoshop CS3 and I also have Adobe Photoshop Elements 9.
Editing old 35mm slides, often there is a "glow" around dark objects. How best can this "glow" be edited away?
View 5 Replies View RelatedHow do yo display the focal length in 35mm equivalent? I've found a plug-in that sorts photos in 35mm eq., but I'm looking for a way/plug-in that displays the focal length in 35mm eq. in the loop info.
Every other PP editor that I've used in the past were inferior to LR but still had the ability to show the focal length in 35mm. I'm wondering why LR, a far superior tool, is lacking in that department. Since I'm still learning photography and use 2 interchangeable lens camera systems with different crop factors and well as two compact cameras, going through my photos with the focal length in mind really give better understanding of perspective.
I have come across and scanned in some old dye transfer negatives (red, green, blue). Is there any way to combine these images in CS5 so as to recreate what would have resulted from the original dye transfer printing?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI'm hoping I'm posting this on the right board, I'm still trying to learn where everything is at in this group.
I'm working on scanning some old mounted slides using a Canoscan 900F. I'm scanning them in as high resolution as I can and saving as .tiff. The file sizes are around 80 mb with dimensions in the vicinity of 6432x4352. I'm using Windows 7 and the scans looks good when I review them in the photo gallery, but when I open them in CS6 and look at the size, it's showing the actual size of the negative. I can change the view so I can see a bigger picture, but when I try to print it, it wants to print at the small size. I'm thinking I'm just missing something. How can I take the scanned slides and set them up so I can print larger prints. I would really like to do a couple as 8 x 10 for a Christmas present. What am I doing wrong?
I'm using Elements 10, I can't get Photoshop to scan in my B&W negatives. The just won't open in Elements10 at all. Why?
View 21 Replies View RelatedI'm working on a textbook that's a mix of new images and pickups from the previous edition. I've noticed that many of the new images I've created with transparent backgrounds and saved as PSD files in CMYK mode display as negatives in Bridge.
I just now made some edits to a legacy file that was displaying properly in Bridge. I added some layers, deleted other layers, and saved the file with no color profile, and as soon as it refreshed in Bridge, it was a color negative.
what's going on here? I'm using Photoshop and Bridge CS5.1 on a Mac running OS 10.8.4.
I would like to know how to scan negatives using my Epson V750 Pro. Previous Photoshop directly connected me to my 750 scanner. Only option on CS6 is images from device. Once I have scanned it is coming up in preview. I want it to come up as a psd.
View 4 Replies View RelatedDoes PS allow for scanning of negatives on a regular scanner, then processing them to digital positives? Scanner is Lexmark Prevail Pro 705
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have a windows xp pro,and the file viewer in xp want open a crw file.Is there some other way to burn a raw file,or do I need to get a CD burner software.
View 3 Replies View Relatedcreating a useable photo from a color negative? The Film is Kodak 200. I've downloaded a few different curves for inverting the film.
View 4 Replies View Relatedhow do i scan negatives to the computer and convert to pics using photoshop 8
View 4 Replies View RelatedHow can I scan transparencies, colour negatives and B7W negatives into Elements 12?
View 7 Replies View RelatedI tried following Scott Kelby's instructions for color correcting digital images in PSE 10. I was entering the values he gave for the R,G and Blue channels. I got off track and probably missed a step. Anyway, now when I try any of the auto correction features, my images look like film negatives and not like a regular digital image. How can I re-enable the auto correction features (levels, color correction, etc.) ?
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen scanning negitives, is it possible to change it to a positive image?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm looking for a way to scan directly into PSE 10 with my negative scanner. Maybe a plug-in? I know it's unlikely that there's something to convert the image to positive etc but I'd rather spend time doing that than use the bundled software with the scanner (SilverFast). However, currently Get From Scanner gives me "Film Scanner" which either previews and scans black negs or doesn't work at all without Silverfast installed. Seems the only way to set it up as a TWAIN scanner (yep, got TWAIN plug-in) is to use a seperate piece of software like silverfast which is then launched to get the scan. Got correct and up-to-date drivers properly installed.
View 4 Replies View RelatedMy first project will be to attempt to make digital positives from old color negatives.Is GIMP the way to go?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have some old photos that I intend to scan into LR4 using a CanoScan 9000E - I also have the negatives.Is there any advantage to scanning from the negatives v the photos? Does scanning the negs give me more control over any post work I do in LR4
View 2 Replies View RelatedScanning and viewing colour negatives
View 7 Replies View RelatedI am trying to convert a CMYK logo, which I didn't design, into pantone colors for film output (for negatives to make plates for a printing press), but there are many colors and gradients in the original file. I don't know much about offset printing, as I usually use a digital press, but I need to know how to best preserve the look of the original file. I can break down into 4 colors, but I lose the gradient effect... Is there a way to preserve that effect in a film negative? (I'm working in Illustrator CS6 on Mac OS X 10.6.8)
(The image to the left is the original logo... To the right, is the 2 color (Pantone) separation image, which will work for film output, but looks significantly different than the original. I don't know much about the offset press on which these logos will be printed, but I've been told it's a maximum of 4 colors per printed image. I know the press operator can mix any pantone color, but I think the film can only be separated into a maximum of 4 different colors....
I have a large amount of scanned negatives. The date of most of the negatives are known. How can I change the date in LR, or other program, so they will show up correctly - when sorted by date in LR?
View 6 Replies View Relatedi have scanned 35mm B&W negs into LR4. have printed about 40 images. all have different tones. some have blue or green or brown tones. some images are warmer than others and some colder.
the temp and tint scale are grayed out. impossible to have all images with same exp/contrast/etc.i have been told that when presenting a b&w body of work, all printed images have to have a similar tone.
Using an old enlarger I managed to take pictures of old 6x6 cm black and white film negatives. And promised someone to do so with a lot of them (her father's heritage).
I have come up with the following temporary starting points:
I started scanning my film & transparency archive and the next step is to import the scans into LR5, but I don't know how to add additional folders into the catalog. So far I have 75 folders going back over 30 years. Assuming I should import the scans into folders by year they were shot and not by the scan date.how I go about importing these folders into LR.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI have version 4.1 LR on both my home desktop as well as my laptop. I keep my desktop fairly well organized, and it is where I keep my image files for backup.....internal drive backed up onto an external drive.
My laptop is not so organized, and I am trying to clean it up. I use it primarily for a working system, when I'm not home.
My folder system on my laptop is different than the one on my organized desktop. Further, I may have image files on one system but not the other.
An example of what I do is as follows: when I am away from home for awhile, I like to try to save my pictures on the Compact Flash card until I get home. And, I also back them up onto my laptop and external portable hard drive as well. Before I get home, I often will use my laptop and LR to edit certain photos. I may in fact create new files when I create HDR images on my laptop.
When I get home, what I usually do is upload as soon as possible those original pictures from my Compact Flash card or external hard drive onto my home system so I have it there, with its backup. However, what I have not been doing is exporting any catalog settings file from my laptop and importing it onto my desktop.
My question is this: if I export a Catalog file from my laptop, without the negatives (images), and if there is a mismatch between the files on my laptop and my desktop, whether that's because of the file structure differences or whether that's because my laptop may have slightly different files on it than my desktop has, will the Catalog settings still transfer properly? For instance, if I have an HDR image on my laptop, along with any Catalog settings, and this HDR image is not on my home network, will a problem or error be created when I import the laptop Catalog file from my laptop without also importing that HDR file? I would think that the catalog settings for that laptop HDR file would be there, but because the HDR file is not being transferred over, perhaps there might be a problem?
I know I should probably get better on my workflow while away from home, but for now, I'm trying to clean up the existing problem that may exist.
How can I introduce negatives values to letter-spacing like
.myStyle
{
letter-spacing:-0.03em;
}
currently the field allows only positive values, and when I try to enter negative ones, it simply chops the minus sign.
I got this workflow,
1) From LR export to PS
2) Do all essential editings.
3) Save. File become 'xyz.tiff' now. (I want to keep this as master copy)
4) Crop to 4r, Save a Jpeg copy as 'xyz 4r.jpg'
5) PS save it as a copy, but do not automatically open the Jpeg copy. The tiff remains opened. I have to manullay Open, browse to it, and open the Jpeg. The 'Open Recent' list also do not list 'xyz 4r.jpg'.
6) Do 4r sharpening for the 'xyz 4r.jpg', save it.
Basically the files I want to keep and worked on is like this: NEF -> xyz.tiff -> xyz 4r.jpg -> xyz sml.jpg(maybe)
Now, it there a way in step (5) to have PS save the JPEG copy, and automatically open it? I don't care if the Tiff copy remains opened or not, I am done with it.
I got a new computer (Windows 7) at work this April and as of today, when I work on any of my JPEG images in PS CS5,suddenly it has defaulted its "Save As" to JPEG2000. How did this default change and how do I get it to default save as. JPEG again? There was nothing I noticed and no warning as to why this has changed, I didn't touch a thing!
(Last week, Adobe had to work with our IT manager to fix a problem that started occuring with my new Adobe Acrobat Pro 11 program. They had to log into my computer and change a registry thing to get it to work properly again...also something that changed without warning!!)