The photos I edit through LR do not print the way they look in the develop module. I have calibrated my monitors and I am printing in photo mode on my Epson printer. The same printer produces accurate color for photos that have not been treated in LR. I am using the free trial version of LR.
View 1 RepliesI am trying to print from Photoshop CS6 to an Epson PictureMate color printer and an Epson PictureMate 225 printer. In both cases I want to let Photoshop manage color. I am finding no color profile for Epson in the list of profiles provided by Photoshop. The best I can do is choose “display” as my profile. Still my color prints do not match what I see on my screen in Photoshop. They are flat and washed out. How can I obtain print profiles for my Epson Printers to be used with Photoshop 6?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have been unhappy with the colors from raws on my new D7100. It's bad enough it has banding and color cast issues within dark shadows but today I decided to do a test against my D90 and ViewNX and the results conclude what I have been seeing. There is too much yellow and a lack of magenta in the converted raws with LR. Here is an example. I'm considering sending it back until this is resolved. Copy and paste the link into your browse I can't seem to be able to paste a working copy of it into this post. I remember when I first got my D80 how bad the color profile was, I had to shoot Jpegs for highend kitchens because I couldn't get the wood tones to look correct. Eventually the profile got updated.
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I live in a small town and want to get some photos printed. The only place here is Walmart. How do I send them the photos? I save my work as DNG. Do I have to change it to a jpg then send it to them with their upload software? Does that mean I change it to the preset of Burn Full Size jpegs?
View 2 Replies View Relatedhow do I upload photos to a commercial printer like Shutterfly.
View 1 Replies View Relatedsoftproofing. I apply a color profile appropriate to my printer/ink/paper, and then I can see what colours are in/out of gamut, and won't print as I expect. But, when I click Soft Proofing, the image takes on a less saturated look, however if I select SRGB as a profile it looks normal. That is I believe because sRGB is the profile I have been using anyway. What I don't understand is why the whole image changes. I assume there is more to it than just colours in and out of Gamut.
I do so LR4 asks if I want a proof copy, which is fine and I understand why. When I make a proof copy though, all the adjustments are greyed out so I cannot do anything.
Just got an epson 3880 printer. Printing on epson paper is fine. But printing on Ilford or Moab or other papers from lightroom and photoshop have a terrible magenta color cast. WHen I print the same image from Preview, with the same print driver settings, it looks fine. So somehow the adobe apps (or my settings) are messing up the color sync. I used to have an espon 2400 which worked just fine.
I have Mac OSX-10.9.1. Monitor is calibrated. (Prints to epson paper with their profiles look great...it's just other profiles that are really bad).
I get a slight difference in color in my prints my when I use LR prifile vs Canon printer managed. The Canon is much truer to what I see on both monitors which, btw, are calibrated. LR throws in a slight magenta cast. Is there a way to correct this?
View 8 Replies View RelatedLooking for an accurate duplicate images / photos program finder. I tried quite few but none of them were accurate.
View 3 Replies View RelatedMac OSX10.6.8 InDesign CS6.
I've created a design for a flowing graphic "wave" across an office window 20 ft wide. The only colour is Pantone #301 (blue), and there are gradients from 10% to 80%. The sign supplier wants a high res PDF to print on a flexible vinyl material. When I export to PDF, the colors change on my screen and go from blue to a grayish-blue tone.
1) If I don't do anything, but send the file, will the final output be close to what I see on my screen, or what the InDesign color palette specifies?
2) When I export to PDF, I see several options. I've tried several variations, and it does not bring the image closer to Pantone #301. What else can I do to assure I get the Pantone color?...
Here are the process and options:
- Pantone #301 is only color specified in InDesign.
- EXPORT to PDF.
- QUALITY - Press
- COMPATIBILITY - options from PDF 1.4 to 1.7. Which is the best to use?
- OUTPUT - COLOR -
Conversion to Destination? or Not?
Destination - many, many choices!
Profile Inclusion? Not sure what that does.
Ink Manager - It gives an option for "Spot to Process". Should I chose that?
I have a bunch of wooden colour samples which need scanning for a website, but have found the scan result are usually off from the real thing. Understand that it's not going to be possible to get a 100% match, would would like to have something which is quite close to how it looks in real life.
there are text labels on the wood in white, after scanning the text appears as colour #a2b5c2 (blueish-grey), the wood itself is a dark brown but appears much lighter. have managed to find a picture of how it should look, compared to the one I scanned.
it asks to select a percentage of a color. Example (30% black, 45% gray)
I don't understand how to accurately get a percentage of color.
how to get percentages of color conveniently in Photoshop?
I've been having trouble printing color prints with PSE 9. They appear kind of pale or less vivid (unacceptably so), the colors are just not as they appear on my monitor. I'm using an Epson R2880, iMac 10.6.8. It prints b&w beautifully. I've been through Epson tech support, checked nozzles and cleaned heads. While speaking with Espon they suggested I print from another application, so I tried using iPhoto, colors came out accurately there. I happen to still have PSE 8 still on my computer, so I attempted to print from there, the colors were also more accurate there (and that's without using the ICC profiles I have in PSE 9 ). It seems the issue is unique to PSE 9. I've tried changing my color setting, typically I have it set to AdobeRGB, but have tried "no color management". I have my monitor calibrated, use proper ICC profiles for any papers I use (and have tried multiple papers).
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have something like 1,850 photos, taken in RAW and later converted to DNG, to create a stop motion. All the photos were taken with the same camera (Canon 5D Mk II) and most of them with a 24-70L. All were taken in the same lighting conditions (in an interior, with the house lighting from flourescent lights) and the same day, in a period of maybe 2 or 3 hours. Each "take" was with the exact same camera and exposure parameters.
When processing the photos in Lightroom (using the LR4 beta) I can see some minor but very noticeable differences between color an exposure in the photos of the same "take". The exposure can be more or less automatically corrected by the Matching total exposures (although I think this doesn't work when the exposures are really similar, but there are some subtle differences like in this case, say, something along ~1/5 stop or so), but I haven't found how to try to match the white balance. All of the photos have already been set to a specific WB (I took a ColorChecker Passport at the beginning of the session), but there are still some differences between some of the shots. Some of them look a tad more greener. I blame the flourescent bulbs, but I'm not sure of the real cause.
So, the question is: is there a way to match the color balance of a series of photos to a target one? I really don't want to go photo by photo setting the white balance manually. Is there a tool like the Match total exposures, but for color balance? I have already tried with the automatic white balance, but the problem is that the decided WB for the photos is not the one I need, and I need to have the same WB for all the session, and this could change from different takes. The difference between shots is usually around 4 or 5 "points" in the Tint scale, some are with Tint +11, some with +15.
Or any other tool that could process this after? At the end I'll use JPGs to create the stop motion, so if there is a tool that could process the exported jpgs it could work too.
I find it so frustrating when I spend time editing a photograph in PSE 9 only to find when when I'm done, the finished product looks completely different everywhere else on my computer and online. The Photoshop display is too light and washes out the photos, giving an inaccurate image. Is there any way to set the display to be more accurate?
View 6 Replies View RelatedIn the print Module. I tell it to Print ie: a 5x7 on a 8x10 piece of paper it prints out, again ie: 5.125 x 10.125. and the cell size I tell it should be as stated. but it isnt.
View 2 Replies View RelatedJust got a Epson 3880 printer and learning to use Lightroom 3 with it. I am trying to print a 8x10 image on 8.5x11 paper. I set the cell size to 8x10. While the print looks great it is not 8x10 (larger). Is there some interaction between the margin settings and the cell size that I need to understand?
View 4 Replies View RelatedUsing a keyword search "contains all" brought up photos of pictures in which that keyword was not applied to them. I selected these photos and the keyword was not associated with the photos.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI take RAW photos using Canon DSLRs and I use to edit CR2 files.I've just got a brand new Lightroom 5 boxed with my new 5D camera and started to use it,
When I open the photos in the library or in develop mode I see the photos in good and light colors in the miniatures in the bottom of the screen.
When I double click on a photo, it opens up in a bigger format and it looks also beautiful (in the same way I can see in the photocamera display), however after around 1 second of "loading" the photo changes its colors and it's no more bright and beautiful it changes in more dull colors.
how to keep the camera settings in raw files and edit the photos starting from the edits that the camera made?
I color tagged a series of photos....with green. Now I want to remove the color labels and have no label at all.
Using LR3, on a Mac.
i cannot scan photos from my kodak printer from photshop..it is reading an old printer that is no longer installed...kodak states it is with the software from adobe?
View 4 Replies View RelatedHow can this possibly happen? The section Apply During Import in the import dialog screen has a field for Develop Settings, but this field says None, so nothing should happen to the photos during import. So why do the display in B&W in Library?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI recently purchased CorelDraw x5. There used to be means to treat closed curves as not filled. But I can't find the means. I think in x4 I simply checked an item in a dialogue box.
At present if you click inside a closed curve [e.g. a rectangle] the curve is selected. That makes selecting items inside the curve separately. Which is a real pain, since I use a rectangle as a figure frame.
I have a question about lightroom. When I exported my photos they turn my black & white to color. What did I do?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI take many architectural photos around sunset, so I get a mix of dayllight and incandescent in the interior photos. I can easily set the white balance to correct one area, but I'm looking for a way to adjust the other area(s). I think an adjustment brush is the way to go, and I was wondering if there was a magic preset to apply to color correct those areas, or some other method I haven't thought of.
View 15 Replies View RelatedIs it possible to do color splash in black/white photos using Adobe Lightroom 4? If so, how?
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen I update my photos in LR 5 from the disk it drops my color label.
View 4 Replies View RelatedWhen I edit a picture and save the result (using either "save" or "save as" and making sure there are ticks in "Save in Elements Organiser" and "Save in version set with original"), the edited copy is often (perhaps 3 times out of 4) treated not as a new version but as a new file. When I close the edit, I am told that there is a new file in a watched folder. When I accept this, I am offered any tags which were applied to the original (which works a bit) but then have to find my way to the edited file and the original, and manually make them into a set. It adds a couple of minutes to each edit. I am using Photoshop 11 on a Windows 8 laptop with a 1000GB hard disc (with about 100GB free). My catalog is quite big- about 70,000 items. I am a long-time Elements user (since the original?). This problem is fairly new (ie months not years)- certainly since I moved to V11. This is independent of the format of the original (in my case, RAW or jpeg) or the edited file (in my case usually jpeg).
View 6 Replies View RelatedI have stiched together six photos to make a panorama photo. When I go to print that combination photo only one of the six photo shows up in the Print window. Only one photo is printed, not the panorama one. I tried using the Finder > Print box and the copy of the panorama photo I had in a folder on the my desktop. That worked. I want to use photo paper for the print and make some adjustments, that doesn't work from the Finder > Print selection. The original panorama photo was a TIFF file and ended up to be 155MB, but I made a copy in JPEG and that file was 13.2MB.
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow to change the keyboard shortcuts for applying Color Labels to photos? I have Keyboard Tamer, and I was able to remove the shortcuts for applying star ratings, but there seems to be no way to change the commands in Photo > Set Color Label.
See, many times a day I will click the white balance color temperature fileld and start typing "5500" only to then realize that the click on the entry field didn't activate it and I have now inadvertently changed the ratings and/or label colors for several photos. Super frustrating to then have to undo a bunch of times, especially when I'm viewing based on rating and/or color label, because photos can spontaneously vanish from view.
Print to JPEG in LR5.2 produces a corrupt JPEG file that cannot be opened.
Lightroom is running on MacPro. When printing I am attaching an ICC profile provided by the bureau that is going to produce the prtins. Having said this the file cannot be opened neither on a Mac nor on a Windows PC.
Up until now, i used to exported as TIFFs but after reading Jeff Schewe book The Digital Print i have become convinced that printing through LR to a file is much more efficient.