I'm trying to streamline a daily activity processing photos with Gimp by using incrontab (which makes it when you add files to a directory, it will automatically run a program to deal with the event). I have a python-fu script that I need to run after selecting four corners of what will be new photos.
It will run itself on all images open in gimp which reduces my keystrokes or mouse clicks. The problem I'm having is that when I put four photos into the processing directory, incron opens four instances of gimp instead of opening gimp once and adding each photo to its open images. I'm using Ubuntu Linux. I'd really like to make the same instance of gimp open the photos, but I'm not sure how to do that.
I know what is block and I am aware of its importance and how it makes life much easier and pleasant in CAD wold. But I don't know for what reason, I was unable to make it a drawing habit for myself to use it as a routine. I am unfamiliar with this command and seldom use it.
I need to make a Photoshop file (a logo file done originally done in Photoshop) into an EPS or AI file to send to someone else to print. I have Adobe Streamline but I haven't used it in a very long time so I can't remember how to use it. I do a: Open, Convert, Save Art As EPS, but when I try to open it in Photoshop to check it, it only shows the outline in black and white, when my file is full color.
All of a sudden today when i went to process photos, in either Lightroom 4 or CS5 all the skin tones are bright pink? They are fine when viewing them on my computer, just not threw adobe products.
I am looking for a way to stream-line productivity of measuring points.
Currently working on monitoring surveys and have to show the movement of beams for the shoring walls.
The crew sets the benchmarks and every week goes back ties them in. I am currently measuring the horizontal, lateral, and vertical movement manually and then taking the numbers and typing them in excel.
is there a way to select the 2 points and it automatically insert the difference in a table?
I am using the Gimp Mac 2.6.8 (seems to work best with Mac Tiger 10.4.11). I have an Olympus E1 DSLR, want to be able to process, manipulate Raw files from the camera in the Gimp. Am I able to accomplish this? If so, is there a plugin I can install in the Gimp? Although I have been using other Gimp functionality, I am completely new to working with Raw files. "non-jargon" terms how I can accomplish this? On my own I got the "ufraw-0.18.tar.gz" file from Sourceforge, am I on the right track?
After installing the Gimp 2.6.11 Tiger PPC, I want to know if Raw Processing is available on this Gimp version. If so, after opening a raw file in the Gimp, how can I access the Raw processing tools?
Some time ago Lightroom started freezing, it didn't matter too much what screen was involved. I'd be editing a photo or even doing something outside of lightroom and lightroom would become unresponsive and wouldn't display the current image etc.
It would allow you to close it, however the process would stay open in the task manager. No matter how one tries to close the tree or process, it totally ignores these requests and requires a reboot to resume work. This also happens while using photoshop with lightroom open - the two programs freezing in tandem.
I have tried doing memory checks on the drive with no problem showing, I have run registry cleaning / ccleaner and so on. There is no spyware or viruses operating. The reliability monitor does not show these crashes. I am unaware of anything that was installed or uninstalled or when this specifically started happening.
There have been a few driver power state failure blue screens while using lightroom (although nowhere near as many as the simple freezes). Unable to diagnose the problem with this I uninstalled and reinstalled lightroom. I have tried both 4.4 and the new 5 in the hope that maybe something was fixed. My display drivers I am pretty sure are up to date also.
When I'm doing a large import, all I can see is the little white progress bar in the upper left. Since it sometimes gets hung up on an operation, it doesn't provide enough feedback about the processes.
I'd prefer to be able to double click that and see a full activity report in a new window of what is getting imported as it's happening, with a separate progress bar for each item. I'd like to see this for all other actions as well, but importing would be my priority.I requesting a new feature? I'm running Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.3 RC [858820].
I am trying to use gimp in batch mode. I can't find any examples of how to do _real_ batch processing. All the examples on the net show how to integrate into the gui.
I see that I can use the -b flag to invoke script-fu functions. But AFAICS,the script with the function definitions needs to reside somewhere in~/gimp-x.y/scripts or something.
In addition, I can't find a way to pass command line arguments to the called functions. Is there any way to define/execute functions? For example, I'd like to callsimple-unsharp-mask from [URL]........
I have to do an animation showing a bacterial object traveling through a swarm of red blood cells and then being attacked by a group of white cells that clump to the bacteria. I've looked online and i keep seeing some thing about a " lock bond test " in particle flow.
When using command line gimp, is it possible to use *.jpg as the file name to have it process ALL the JPEG files in a folder? I'm really actuallyinterested in a simple file format conversion with no image processingapplied, specifically svg2png conversion. I know Gimp can render svg andcan save png, and unlike the next best program ImageMagick, the Gimpactually DOES NOT GLITCH the resulting image! So I've got a folder FULL OFSVG FILES, and would like to be able to just type "gimp convert -i *.svg-outputformat png" and have have it AUTOMATICALLY convert all my svg filesto png files. Is it possible to do this with such a simple and shortcommand line? I know the above exact example command line doesn't work,cause I tried it. But is there some simillarly simple command line code Icould use with gimp to convert svg to png via rendering the svg and thensaving the image as a png?
I want to do batch processing of 460 .png files. It includes rescaling their width to 50% without interpolation, changing color mode to indexed based on a specified palette, changing color mode to RGB and rescaling their width to 200%.
I use gimp for image processing in my job as Forensic Questioned Document Examiner. One of the requirements when we elaborate an image is to be able to relate what modifications have been done to the image, in order to make the result reproducible.
So I was wondering: is there a feature or plugin that records all the modifications, filters, ... applied to an image (taking of course into account undos etc), and perhaps saves them into the resulting file (gimp format at least ) for later reference and inspection?
Problem :I have a large number of ex-camera jpegs of the pages of a book,photographed at an archive where scanning is prohibited. A camera stand wasused, with the book supported on foam wedges. Consequently, both pages ineach image are distorted - i.e. each page of a pair is a trapezium.It is, of course, a simple matter to crop and apply the perspective tool(twice) to an image to restore the pages to their flat state. Doing it forseveral hundred images is a non-starter, and anyway that's what the machineis for.
Proposed solution : Import an image to the Gimp. Drag and drop a number of images into the same project - as many as themachine can handle. Link the image layers. Crop. Select one page and use the Perspective Tool to pull the page 'square'.Repeat for the second page. Export each image, working down the stack.
Result :Selecting the right-hand page and correcting the perspective works, in thatthe Gimp progressively works down the layers. But, although each right-handpage is correctly 'squared up', all the left-hand pages, other than the toplayer, are enlarged and cropped.
Software used :2.6 under Debian Squeeze. 2.8.2 under Mint 14.1 2.8.6 under Windows 7 All OS 64-bit.
I opened a 1024x1024 image in GIMP, and manually broke it up into fully black and fully white sections. I'd like to output a file which is just a simple binary array of 8 bit numbers, such that every black pixel in the image has the value 0, and every white pixel has the value 1. This way, I can open it in my C program and then load the array into memory using the fread function.
I haven't been able to work out how to do this. I need to avoid using any files with metadata in them...And unfortunately, even the ppm format has a handful of characters at the beginning. Is there a way to do this?
I would like to repeat the following procedure on a large number of images but I am unable to find a way of batch processing to do this for me. The idea is to end up with a small plain boarder around the original image. This is to prevent any image being lost when I order prints due to cropping.
1) open image 2) copy the image 3) create a new image 0.5" larger than the original 4) paste the copied image into the larger new image 5) resize the new image to a given size for example 10x8 for printing 6) Save the image under new name or in a different folder to the original.
This is a kind of ”HDR”-process done in just 8 small simple steps using GIMP.
What you need is three identical photos where each one has its own exposure – one normal(1), one under exposed(2) and the third over exposed(2). On my Canon 550D this is done with the EAB function. When the process is finished in GIMP the best exposures of each image will appear. The principle for the process is to use the fact that all dark areas in a layer mask will create transparency in the current layer.
all_3_origins.jpg (21.27K) Number of downloads: 5
1. Open GIMP and Archive – Open: image (1) 2. Archive – Open as Layer: image 2 3. Layers dialog (right click the layer 2) - Add layermask 4. Add mask to layer dialog, choose Grayscale copy of layer and klick Add This mask will filter all dark shadows and make the layer transparent in those areas. 5. Archive – Open as Layer: image 3 6. Layers dialog (right click the layer 3) - Add layermask 7. Add mask to layer dialog, choose Grayscale copy of layer, mark ”Invert” and click Add This mask will filter all highlights and make the layer transparent in those areas. Try mode Normal or Addition 8. Merge all visible layers.*
HDR Dialog.jpg (27.78K) Number of downloads: 3
9. Done!!
Final_image.JPG (80.72K) Number of downloads: 6
10. Now you can threat and manipulate the image as one image and save it.
*Further more; before merging you can adjust levels (Color - Levels) for each layer mask as well as opacity (Layers dialog) for each layer to fine tune layers for the final image.
I'd like to copy and paste text created in MS Word onto photographs. I'd like to create a poster with an inspirational message super-imposed upon the picture itself.
When I use the Cut or Clear function with a graphic design I can punch a hole right through a layer or layers. But with a jpeg photo and duplicate layers all I get is that the selected area turns opaque white. There are work arounds, but it would be simpler to be able to turn a selected area transparent. So what gives? Running Windows 7.
'm working on a project to present some old photos scanned from a book that's more than 50 years old. The photos are in Black & White and the scan left them with noticable grid/dot patterns. Is there any way I can clean those up with GIMP?
I just got a new computer. I had Photo Shop Elements on my old one. I appears that Gimp can do the same things for free. One thing Photo Shop Elements did was provide a way to scan as many photos as would fit on your scanner and then provide a way to separate them. Can Gimp do that? Sometimes I would need to use Elements to open a scanned photo. Would Gimp open a photo scanned on Elements?
I am trying to decide whether to buy Elements for my new Windows 8 or download Gimp.
I want to restore some photos, and I was wondering what format is the best for manipulation of the photo. My scanning options are: JPEG, TIFF, Bitmap, PNG, PCX, or Flash pix. My Output Resolutions are between 200 to 4800. I still have 532 GB free on my hard drive.
I usually process or edit my images for the internet using 72 dpi and using dimensions that fits my liking. I want to process some photos for printing(i.e the paper used for printing family and social photos; I believe you understand what I mean?). please, what dpi or ppi do I use on gimp? Btw,what do photographers call such a paper?
In this tutorial, we will be adding color and definition to "drained" images, which are lacking it.
This tutorial is similar in concept to 14Stones's Cool Render effect (simple) tutorial which can be found here. I discovered part of this method a while ago, and it isn't really a secret, so I didn't copy 14Stones.
Anyway, I will be using this image:
It's nice, but is lacking.
First, duplicate your picture.
Next, on the the top one, Gaussian Blur it by 5 pixels and set the layer mode to overlay.
How to cut down on my time watermarking my photos. Currently I am opening a photo, adding text, rotating text, duplicating the text layer, then moving each layer to the top left and bottom right corners. Surely there must be a way to make this process quicker?
As a photograher, I have hundredsot thousands of photos in a folder after a shooting. I would like to work with Gimp on all of the photos individually, one after the other.
When I opened the first one in the folder and saved the result I would like to close the first file and go to the second one and work on it. And after the next one and the next one...
How may I go easily -with a key shorcut, for example- go to the NEXT photo within the folder?
There are other programs, like fotoxx or DigiKam able to do this, however, I like better to work with Gimp... if possible.
I am trying to standardize a series of photos, so that the distance between the eyes for each picture is 100 pixels. I can see the distance in pixels using the measuring tool, but when I try and scale the picture, the measuring tool disappears and I have to eyeball the distance. Is there a way to create a line or something between the eyes that I can then set the distance as 100 pixels to resize it? Or a way to see the distance in pixels while I scale the photo so I don't have to guess?
