I am trying to standardize a series of photos, so that the distance between the eyes for each picture is 100 pixels. I can see the distance in pixels using the measuring tool, but when I try and scale the picture, the measuring tool disappears and I have to eyeball the distance. Is there a way to create a line or something between the eyes that I can then set the distance as 100 pixels to resize it? Or a way to see the distance in pixels while I scale the photo so I don't have to guess?
find a good way of standarizing my photos for colour value measurements (mean and SD from the histograms in Photoshop).
This is my problem:Variation in the birds in the photos (e.g in the crown, different colours)variation between photos, independently from variation among the birdsvariation within the photos (the amount of light varies in different areas of the same photo)
How do I standarize for variation between photos for the influence of ambient ligth of the specific area of the photo I want to measure? (e.g crown of the bird)
I need to be able to withdraw the comparable colour measurements from different photos (and its too late for a better method for actually take the photos.)
I have tried to use the white background (going down to pixel level, avoiding the orange grid and dirt) and the yellow post-it note as points to standarize, but that didnt work.
Technical info: - I use Adobe Photoshop CS6, updated this week - On a Windows 7 Home Premium computer - Uploading the images as NEF-files and saving them as psd-files - RAM: 4,00 GB (3,84 GB uasable)
I've got a series of photos (my wedding photos actually) that need color, contrast and brightness adjusting. The problem is that the photos were taken under a tree so the lightning was partly shady, partly bright and with different photos being shot at slightly different locations and positions I get hughly varying results when adjusting the photos individually.
way to adjust a series of photos so that the contrast, brightness, etc settings will turn out the same across a whole series of photos?
During 2014 I would like to create 'photo a day' video of myself, similar to this [URL] ........ I have no plans to inflict my work on the world via YouTube and the like, it is purely for my own amusement.
My question is a compositional/editing one. I understand how to take the stills and create a video from them using Windows Movie Maker, not the best software but sufficient for my purposes.
In the link above the young ladies eyes and nose stay at a (mostly) fixed point in the frame, I find this makes for a better video when all the stills are run together. The problem I have, is, when I take stills of myself my nose and eyes are at different positions frame to frame which makes for a rather jumpy end result.
Any tips on how to remedy this, is it done when taking the shot, or in editing afterwards? The shots are taken on a small point and shoot digital camera, as the shots will be taken at various locations etc I wont be able to have a static setup with a tripod and mark on the floor to ensure the same position each time. The method I have tried it just holding the camera out in front of me at arms length and trying to get the same height each time.
Is there a way to easily and quickly edit shots in Paint.NET so that the eyes and nose are at the same position in each frame for a series of photos, I'm not too bothered about all the frames being the same size or the edges lining up etc.
I am redoing a series of photos using a specific set of layers and filters, it takes quite some time to open all the stuff for each photo. I sthere a way to automate all or part of this process?
I'm trying to create a series of sphere images that are to be used as an animation, whereas in my case I have a transparent background layer and a layer containing a sphere. Then I want to add a 15 degree rotation for each new image. The problem is that every time I select the rotate tool and click on the image to enter the value, the sphere is moved slightly.
I'm using the script export-selection.scm to create a series of PNG files from an existing image. It works fine but I find the fact that it saves the file to a name that it constructs (based on the .xcf file loaded, and whether it is saving a one layer or visible layers, etc) really slows me down, as I have to bounce between gimp and explorer to rename each output file after every save.
I looked at the source to see if I could tweak it so that the filename it created was unique, but I must have missed a crucial episode somewhere, because I couldn't get past first base.
..so you get a filename of MyGimpImageName-sel.png. What I want to do is create filenames called MyGimpImageName-sel-001.png, MyGimpImageName-sel-002.png etc.
An alternative would be to add an edit box to the dialog to allow you to specify the filename.
On a related subject, is it possible to set up a key binding to execute a script? If this could be done, I could roll a version of the script that skipped the dialog altogether and just used the last settings. In combination with the unique filename mod, this would speed up the job considerably.
This is a kind of ”HDR”-process done in just 8 small simple steps using GIMP.
What you need is three identical photos where each one has its own exposure – one normal(1), one under exposed(2) and the third over exposed(2). On my Canon 550D this is done with the EAB function. When the process is finished in GIMP the best exposures of each image will appear. The principle for the process is to use the fact that all dark areas in a layer mask will create transparency in the current layer.
all_3_origins.jpg (21.27K) Number of downloads: 5
1. Open GIMP and Archive – Open: image (1) 2. Archive – Open as Layer: image 2 3. Layers dialog (right click the layer 2) - Add layermask 4. Add mask to layer dialog, choose Grayscale copy of layer and klick Add This mask will filter all dark shadows and make the layer transparent in those areas. 5. Archive – Open as Layer: image 3 6. Layers dialog (right click the layer 3) - Add layermask 7. Add mask to layer dialog, choose Grayscale copy of layer, mark ”Invert” and click Add This mask will filter all highlights and make the layer transparent in those areas. Try mode Normal or Addition 8. Merge all visible layers.*
HDR Dialog.jpg (27.78K) Number of downloads: 3
9. Done!!
Final_image.JPG (80.72K) Number of downloads: 6
10. Now you can threat and manipulate the image as one image and save it.
*Further more; before merging you can adjust levels (Color - Levels) for each layer mask as well as opacity (Layers dialog) for each layer to fine tune layers for the final image.
I'd like to copy and paste text created in MS Word onto photographs. I'd like to create a poster with an inspirational message super-imposed upon the picture itself.
When I use the Cut or Clear function with a graphic design I can punch a hole right through a layer or layers. But with a jpeg photo and duplicate layers all I get is that the selected area turns opaque white. There are work arounds, but it would be simpler to be able to turn a selected area transparent. So what gives? Running Windows 7.
'm working on a project to present some old photos scanned from a book that's more than 50 years old. The photos are in Black & White and the scan left them with noticable grid/dot patterns. Is there any way I can clean those up with GIMP?
I just got a new computer. I had Photo Shop Elements on my old one. I appears that Gimp can do the same things for free. One thing Photo Shop Elements did was provide a way to scan as many photos as would fit on your scanner and then provide a way to separate them. Can Gimp do that? Sometimes I would need to use Elements to open a scanned photo. Would Gimp open a photo scanned on Elements?
I am trying to decide whether to buy Elements for my new Windows 8 or download Gimp.
I want to restore some photos, and I was wondering what format is the best for manipulation of the photo. My scanning options are: JPEG, TIFF, Bitmap, PNG, PCX, or Flash pix. My Output Resolutions are between 200 to 4800. I still have 532 GB free on my hard drive.
I usually process or edit my images for the internet using 72 dpi and using dimensions that fits my liking. I want to process some photos for printing(i.e the paper used for printing family and social photos; I believe you understand what I mean?). please, what dpi or ppi do I use on gimp? Btw,what do photographers call such a paper?
In this tutorial, we will be adding color and definition to "drained" images, which are lacking it.
This tutorial is similar in concept to 14Stones's Cool Render effect (simple) tutorial which can be found here. I discovered part of this method a while ago, and it isn't really a secret, so I didn't copy 14Stones.
Anyway, I will be using this image:
It's nice, but is lacking.
First, duplicate your picture.
Next, on the the top one, Gaussian Blur it by 5 pixels and set the layer mode to overlay.
How to cut down on my time watermarking my photos. Currently I am opening a photo, adding text, rotating text, duplicating the text layer, then moving each layer to the top left and bottom right corners. Surely there must be a way to make this process quicker?
As a photograher, I have hundredsot thousands of photos in a folder after a shooting. I would like to work with Gimp on all of the photos individually, one after the other.
When I opened the first one in the folder and saved the result I would like to close the first file and go to the second one and work on it. And after the next one and the next one...
How may I go easily -with a key shorcut, for example- go to the NEXT photo within the folder?
There are other programs, like fotoxx or DigiKam able to do this, however, I like better to work with Gimp... if possible.
I've been playing with gimp a lot to edit my photos and how to reduce bright patches in photos that have bright spot that kinda take over the photo. I am using Gimp and cannot retake the photo.
Here is what I did.
1. I outlined my body and took away 100% of the blue, this makes the black look cleaner in my opinion. 2. I then inverted the outline and reduced the blue for the rest of the photo by 50% giving the white a cleaner look. 3. Then I outlined the bright area of snow below my feet and lowered the brightness. 4. I highlighted the sky from the mountain base up and increased the blue by 100% twice.
I downloaded Gimp because I wanted to add text to photos. I have a "bazillion" photos, most of which Gimp does not recognize. These are photos imported into iPhoto from my Fujifilm digital camera or they are scans from my HP printer scanned into iPhoto. I hope I don't need to open each file in iPhoto and export it to a different format...
I am wondering how I can make a simple collage of three or four photo's. Something like a progression of movement, or a film strip kind of look. I am able to do this in Picasa but I am not happy with the resolution of the final product. I assume it is to do with layers. Here is what I would like to be able to do [URL] ..........
I'm trying to make a time-lapse video from pictures I took of my kid.
The photos aren't well aligned, so I had tried the jpegs as multiple layers. I cropped, rotated, and scaled each successive picture so that it would be best aligned with the previous one. I then tried saving as a gif. The colors were messed up due to the color conversion. If I could export as a video format, that would be ideal, then I wouldn't have to convert the colors and could compress the file. I'm using windows 7, 64 bit, and GIMP 2.6, GAP didn't seem compatible with windows 7.
There are quite a few photos that I'm aligning, so the layers method seems the easiest. There are other programs which could take the aligned pictures individually and put them together, but I'd need a way to export the layers as individual files.
Lastly, I'd like to see what "morphing" one picture to the next would look like. I assume that would depend on what method I use to put the photos together.
I'm starting to get serious about photography. I've shot a batch of photos that need manual processing. There are a couple of steps where I should be able to save one or two keystrokes every time. This may sound minor, but when I have to do it time after time after time, it gets annoying. This is not intended to be a rant, but rather a request for info about changing defaults to speed things up for me.
I'm running Gimp 2.6.11 on Gentoo linux (64-bit). I've looked at "Edit ==> Preferences", but can't seem to find what I'm looking for there.
1) I need to crop photos, but the manual "crop tool" is not the best fit. I prefer to use "Image ==> Canvas Size". My problem is that the Width+Height aspect ratio defaults to staying constant. I.e. if I crop the X size, the Y size changes proportionally. I do NOT want that. I have to manually click on the link to break the linkage. Sometimes I forget, which can get really annoying, when cropping in one dimension crops the other as well. How can I change the default to not link the X+Y sizes?
2) Saving stuff to PNG *) After having done any cropping, I obviously want to save my work. Saving to PNG pops up a dialog about "Your image should be exported before it can be saved... Is there any way to get the PNG save routine to just do it, rather than popping up a dialogue?
*) If I'm saving to a new PNG file, I get YET ANOTHER DIALOGUE with settings for compression/interlacing/etc/etc. I never change the default settings, so this is another extra annoyance to me. How can I get the "save as" command to "just do it"?
I am now unable to delete the edited photos, rename the edited photos, or move the edited photos to another folder. Basically, they are stuck in their spot. I'm not even able to pull up the "Properties" selection from right-clicking the edited photo.
I tried to open them using IrfanView, but when I go to delete the photo using that program, it makes it not respond.
I can open the photo up in Paint, save it as a different format, and delete it - but the original edited photo is still there.
How can I move and delete edited photos? I've never ran into this problem in all the years I've been using GIMP.
I've been playing around with colorizing black and white images, and it's mostly fine. Where I come in to problems, however, is when encountering a situation where something of one colour can be seen through something of another colour. For example:
This is very much the beginning of a rough draft, so I've not bothered being too precise with where I've coloured as yet, but I hope you can see the issue - the floor looks fine, the dress looks fine, but where you can see the floor through the dress, it doesn't look right at all.
At the moment, this is done by creating a separate layer for each colour, and setting that layer to "Overlay", but it doesn't matter what layer mode I use, I still encounter problems. Is there some technique I'm missing? I've tried playing around with the colours of the specific things - so, for example, changing the colour of the floor where it can be seen through the dress, but leaving it as it is elsewhere - but I've not found anything that produces satisfactory results, as yet.
Another related question is how is best to colorize photos like this. The method I usually use is to create a separate layer for each colour and then use a brush/eraser to paint in the part of the image I want coloured. I've seen tutorials, however, which say that you should fill a layer completely with colour and then use a mask to let only the bits you want to show through be visible. Is there any advantage to doing that? As far as I can tell, it achieves the same result, except that you can't then use Hue/Saturation to adjust the colour after the fact.
I have done LOTS of detailed research into ppi, dpi etc.
I believe I do understand the difference. Whenever I open a picture in gimp it opens at 72ppi. I wish to scale all my photos to 300 ppi so i can use a template I made of the exact same size paper as my printer uses without having to worry about the printer rescaling my photos from 72 ppi to whatever dpi it needs.
I have converted lots manually and am assured that this works for my purposes (not professional just scrapbook and photo album prints)
I have two questions though; 1. Is there a freeware program, or a way through gimp, that I can batch convert multiple files up to 300ppi. 2. Why when I change the ppi of a photo does the filesize become larger? Surely the ppi is just a reference number to know how many pixels to display and to convert for printing?
