Trying to color correct skin tones using curves in CMYK, but seem to either have false cyan reading via eyedropper or something just as strange is at hand.
The end result when trying to keep cyan at a third of yellow's count - as in Lee Varis Skin book - is too much red.
This is truly baffling as how can Photoshop give such a wrong reading or what am I doing wrong?
How to even out the skin color, I have a picture of a model, unfortunately due to light and make up and her skin color the color of her face and her hands and body don't match, I think I saw a video on youtube where the skin color was evened out throughout the picture from raw I think this was done on bridge but I am not sure. How to even out the skin color either on PS or bridge?
I currently have CS5 on a win 7 pc.
I'm doing this for a project, and I need to make those stitches look realistic. I've tryed changing the hue/saturation, exposure, levels, curves, etc. But i can't get the skin tone of the stitches to match the skin tone of the picture.
i want the skin tone behind the stitched to match the skin tone of the face, however i want it to look realistic.
While retouching a 'under-exposed' photo, sometimes I can't decide which degree(?) is the relevant skin tone. Though after finishing a work, tones and overall contrast seems to be changed whenever I look at it. Maybe because of various web-site BG, my physical condition, lighting...etc.
I want to know which one do you prefer just based on skin tone and contrast.
I'm trying to color a photo, but I'm getting "so-so" results. The colors (especially the skin tone) look fake.
I've been painting over the picture with the brush tool and then I set the blending mode to "color". Below you will find the original b/w photo and what I have so far.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can achieve a believable color?
I would like to learn how to get this golden skin tone exactly like this magazine cover (see link below). I tried to do the same blending the skin with the gold texture but I failed. The result was a quite weird and too yellow. There are any person that know how to do this?[URL]...
View 4 Replies View RelatedI've been using CS6 for 1 year, and suddenly have some desaturated skin tones in a few photos, it looks like the skin is painted with grey paint! I first saw this in a couple of JPG conversions, the RAW NEFs from a Nikon D800 were ok, but now have found the same thing in some NEFs. I am using an HP laptop with Win 7 64 bit and 8gig memory.
If I advance the Sat and Vib sliders in ACR, some of the grey becomes colored, suggesting there is a threshold below which the skin tone saturation drops out completely. No other colors exhibit this effect!
In camera raw, "apply auto tone adjustments" option in the preferences dialog is not same with the "auto" button on the basic panel, isn't it? Both of them control the same sliders, are there any relationship between them?
View 3 Replies View Relatedhow do I increase the skin tone on one face and decrease ir on another
View 17 Replies View Relatedhow to make a lasso loop(lips) within a larger lasso loop(face) and mask for skintone corr.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI imported tiff images into Lightroom 4 that were scanned by DigMyPics.com. The color of the images look good on the Windows 7 photo viewer. It looks horrible in Lightroom 4. My monitor is callibrated, the import develop setting is set to "none" , the box is unchecked "apply auto tone adjustments".I think that the windows viewer is showing the accurate color of the scan and LR is not. I don't think DigMyPics would send this awful color.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI take a photo that is a girl.Her skin tone is near yellow tone.
How to make skin tone like newborn baby? It means: brightly, have a little pink, and translucent (I don't know how to say that...).
There is an apply auto tone adjustments checkbox in preferences, but it does not work properly. After checking it, some photos still require to click on auto button on the basic panel.
View 2 Replies View RelatedAt the 3200% zoom level, with small movements of the cursor, I get different color readings within the boundaries of a single pixel.
View 10 Replies View RelatedI am doing some photometric analysis studies and would like to change the footcandle readings on the light meter to be non-decimal.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have not touched AutoCAD for quite some time and I just got back on it today.
For some reason, I cannot seem to be able to get the arrow at both end when I am drawing dimensions. Also, no text (unit) is shown is arrow either...
I loaded the template: Tutorial-mArch.dwt
Capture.jpg
PS: I am drawing a front fence for the front of the house I am about to renovate...
We have a bunch of shots taken using natural light - the shots all have completely different exposure and white balance adjustments.
Now that the shots feel like they've been shot at the same time of day (and on the same day) we'd like to start adjusting the white balance accross multiple shots - but use the current white balance/exposure from each individual shot as the starting point - not reset the adjustments.
Kind of like baking the current settings or making adjustments on top of current adjustments - or make new adjustments relative to the current adjustments.
I occasionally use GIMP to burn-down parts of portraits that compete with the face. For example, bare shoulder, midriff over-light, hands over-lit.
The skin ends up looking greyish, not like less-lit skin. It works not too badly visually, as the emphasis is on the face, but fails on inspection.
I have tried the burn tool and just plain old Brightness, both on a selected area.
I understand the benefit of shooting camera raw and I like the adjustments you can make without effecting the photo itself. The one thing I can't get used to is the limiting workflow in raw that allows you to undo only one change. Being a long time user of Photoshop I'm spoiled by all the image changes I'm allowed to make in combination with one another and the ability to back out of all or some of them.
I'm I missing something in the raw workflow? I wasn't sure if this should be posted in the Photoshop, Bridge or Raw forum. If any of you know of a forum that discuss's this sort of stuff,
David Boxing_WIP.png (202.28K)
Number of downloads: 19
Could I have a description of how to match the skin color of the head to the boxer's skin color?
if there was a way to create a brush that half was the foreground color and half was the background color...
for example, I have a mountian brush. and the shadow of the mountian is black, as is the outline, but alot on the inside is white. Since its white, when i use the brush, if they overlap, you can see through the mountian... not exactly what i was going for. So, any way to use 2 colors? or make the brush sold without making it all back? I tried a shade of grey, but that just creates an lighter opacity of the forground color, and the FG/BG jitter just chages the color of what was originally black.
How do I create that two-tone effect (on the people)?
View 7 Replies View Relatedi've been trying to immitate this effect eversince i learned Photoshop but i can't seem to get it right do you guys know how?
View 3 Replies View RelatedHow I can remove orange tone of a photo taken by night? A random example from google images:
View 1 Replies View Relatedi have an image half the image is much brighter than the other half, i do not mean the sun is shining in one half anf the other is in shade, the image has a fault, a third of it is a diagonal strip like brushing the dodge tool over part of an image, i would like the image to be the same shade an colour and brightness, or near as i can, i have tried using the mask tool and dodge tool but it is quite messy,
View 1 Replies View RelatedI was asked to take the group photo, cut out the black girl, and insert the young man. See all images below and my results. the only thing I'm not happy with is the young man was better lit than the group one. I was playing around with the controls of the young man to bring his tone more in line with the group (hue; saturation; color levels; etc.) and I just could not figure it out.
what I can do to get the young man to match up tone wise with the group? Or vice versa, even?
For quite a while I have been using the Photoshop HDR for initial processing of my HDR shots. My workflow is to "open in HDR Pro in Photoshop" from Lightroom. With LR 3.x and CS5 there was no problem - make the initial tonemapping settings in CS5, hit "OK", and save the resultant TIF back to lightroom for further processing.
With LR 4.1 I do the same thing, the files import into CS6 and the tonemapping window comes up, but after I hit OK in the tonemapping window, the resultant tonemapped TIF file is oversaturated(This still in CS6). It needs about 30 points of saturation reduction in LR to get it back to what it showed in the tonemapping window.
I have colour gamut set for Pro Photo RGB in both LR and PS. I can show some screen captures later.
While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc).Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made?
As a preliminary to a digital painting I need to identify the overall mid tone (tonal value, not hue) of a color photograph and then reproduce that mid tone in the CS4 Color Picker (or somewhere) so that there is a choice of color tints that can be given to that particular (overall mid) tone. It will then be used to simulate an imprimatura transparent wash treatment over a white canvas (layer).
It should be easy I'm sure but I haven't been able to find a way to do it. I had hoped that Levels might be used to identify the mid tone, and then give it an identifier (?like an RGB number)which could be used in the Color Picker to choose a color with the mid tone value.
In the histogram palette menu there are red, green and blue histograms to give the saturation of those colors, and a luminosity histogram to give the overall ( greyscale) brightness. There is also an RGB option, presumably to give a composite version of the red, green and blue saturation. In Levels, however we have the same thing, except there is no luminosity option, only RGB. But RGB in this case cannot be a composite of the three color channels, as we use it to adjust brightness and contrast; in other words it is presumably the same as Luminosity in the histogram palette. Despite this, when I do adjustments to an image the RGB histogram in Levels looks identical to the RGB histogram in the histogram palette. I'm using PS 3 Extended.
View 5 Replies View Relatedi really like the effect of half tone dots but i dont know how to acheive it.
the effect im going for is in this pic.
i assume it a series of filters
