Photoshop :: How To Combine Digital Shots In CS6 For A Really Long Exposure
Sep 12, 2013
I want to make a really long-exposure shot using my Canon 40D DSLR. If I just set the camera to Bulb and take a long exposure, I get a lot of noise that eventually wipes out the image. I understand that you can achieve the equivalent of a long-exposure by combining several (many?) shorter exposures of the same scene. This is routinely done in Astrophotography and other areas, but I don't know how to do it. I tried googling some of the terms, but I guess I didn't use the right terminology because the search didn't turn up what I wanted.
I would like to get rip of the 2 light circles under the connecting bridge at the center of the picture
my best photoshop technique is to add fireworks to a pictureI have tried the clone/heal tool in lightroom but the outcome wasn't very good, it replaced the flare with another noticeable circles.
We have a bunch of shots taken using natural light - the shots all have completely different exposure and white balance adjustments.
Now that the shots feel like they've been shot at the same time of day (and on the same day) we'd like to start adjusting the white balance accross multiple shots - but use the current white balance/exposure from each individual shot as the starting point - not reset the adjustments.
Kind of like baking the current settings or making adjustments on top of current adjustments - or make new adjustments relative to the current adjustments.
My wife took my picture in front of the UW Husky Stadium but the video screen above me is overexposed (washed out). So I took a separate shot of the screen with proper exposure. As you can probably see, I took this shot much closer to the screen. I want to replace the overexposed screen witht the properly exposed screen in the picture of me.
Because the properly exposed shot was taken closer to the screen and maybe at a different angle (rotation) those would have to be adjusted.
I am using Adobe Photoshop Elements 9 running on Windows 7. I have used it for a while but am an absolute beginner with anything more than the simplest functions so I would need all the steps spelled out in detail.
how you all post screen shots, I'm an aide for my graphic design teacher and he asked me to write a tut on a simple animation i made. Problem is, the people I'm writing it for have never used image ready, I know it would help them if I added in screen shots, so they could see exactly what I meant, is there some program for this or I am I just not getting it?
I see often in forums and tutorials where the authors have pasted PS screen shots of various boxes from the palletes. How does one do these print screen of portions of the whole screen?
I want to print 2-3 red stains on white t-shirt to look like I've been shot whit gun and one near neck to look like I've been cut-throated I've downloaded some bloody brushes but it isn't that simple...it doesn't look real enough....how can I accomplish this?
I am starting my Photography project for my Art A-Level and am in need of some assistance. The theme for the project is ''Light''. I need to find/take photos connected to proverbs or sayings, involving light (ie: ''There is light at the end of the tunnel" and "Every cloud has a silver lining").
The photgraph can also include a form of light, or an effect added in Photoshop
If anyone could post some ideas, whether they be connected to or involving light, or some effects that I could apply after the photo has been taken.
This is probably easy, but I'm a newbie to Photoshop. I was just on vacation, and took some pictures of some old castles. I couldn't frame the whole thing, so I thought I'd take several shots and see if I could merge them all together.
I want to use screenshots of websites in a web based portfolio. The images should be about 200px * 300px, or so. I'm having a hard time producing consistent results when cropping. I can do a screen shot of the entire screen for all of the sites and change the image size. The issue with this is that the shots are so small that the detail of screenshot is lost. This creates a very low quality image.
I tried to solve this by cropping the screen shot to a only feature a portion of it which would produce a more "artsy" looking image that would show the details more clearly. It was difficult to produce images that were sized consistently. There was no way to know what the exact size of the cropped image was.
Can I define a size for a mask and then apply it, or reverse it, to have a clearly defined size?
I have been trying all morning to get Photoshop CC to open some screenshots I took, something that I've normally had no problem with. Any way I try to open the files (dragging them to the icon in my dock to launch Photoshop, openening Photoshop first and then going to File -> Open and opening them) causes PS to crash. This happens with old screenshots and new screenshots.
I just got a new computer over the weekend and have gone from Snow Leopard to Mountain Lion. I'm not sure if the issue is with OS 10.8 or Photoshop CC 14.1.2?
how to clones some hair but keeping it looking natural. Basically, my problem is that I'm trying to reshape the hair in the portrait to make it look more balanced and aesthetically pleasing. However, the hair stylist used hair extensions in the shot that are really curly and frizzy. What I've done so far is clone it using heal and clone with various amounts of opacity and flow...this worked on some parts, but around the edges I'm at a loss. Right now I have the 'form' of the hair masked off, but now need to clone the edges to make it look like the hair naturally fell in that position rather than shaped in post-production...
I'm trying to create a street elevation using a series of screen shots taken from Google maps. Here an image of the type of thing I'm trying to achieve:
You'll noties that the image is flat.. Is this something I can achieve using the perspective tool? If so, do I change the perspective of all the individual images and then merge them? Or do I merge them, and then change the perspective in sections?
I am try to stitch portrait style shots on a panoramic view but it always set up as a landscape image I have used LR4 and bridge with no success. All my landscape style images are ok with no issues. Is it how im taking the pictures or is there a setting to use to set for landscape or portrait.
I have about 2500 screen shots in png-format. I need to convert them all into b/w-pictures. How could this be done easily? Furthermore (but I guess that will be the issue in another list), I will have to run all these screenshots through an OCR-program. So what would be the best output-format for these screen shots?
I have some photos I took years ago, and then took some more, on the same film, not realizing I already had photos on the frames, resulting in double exposures. I want to keep both sets of photos - two different locations, some light scenes, some darker, of people and objects. How can I best correct these? I have Adobe Pkhotoshop Elements 9, I believe it is.
I shot with a Canon EOS 5D one image as a RAW and JPG.When I view with Canon Digital Phot Professional, both files are identical in exposure. They look just the way it shows on my camera LCD display, but when i open both file on photoshop CS5 or Bridge there is a huge drop in exposure on the RAW file. The jpg is fine. There is a huge difference in exposure between the RAW and jpg? It's the same file.
All of my photos are 8 bit, but when I open them I get a message at the bottom of the screen reading "exposure works in 32-bit only". When I save these photos as any file type (JPEG, PNG, ect) they seem to export as 32bits/channel. That is to say, that they appear very dark and saturated, exactly how they look in PS if I select the 32bits/channel mode option.I may be getting confused between the 32/64bit versions of PS (i'm using 64bit CS5 at the moment.) But i'm really puzzled as to how I can export my images looking the same as they were when I imported them.
I tried doing the pen tool frame by frame but it degrades the image. I tried doing a gain reducting but all it does is blur features and not even remove the rain. I looked up a computer science journal that gave a method with K-means clustering but I don't know how to apply it to AE..
A friend gave me an SD card of her wedding to tidy up and put onto a DVD. The format is MPG-4. The clips play fine but as soon as I put it all onto onto the time-line I get the odd jump on panning of the camera, which are not there on the clips. I know this can relate to the project settings and I have played around with these, adjusting the bit rate up and down.
I've just bought a fluid head tripod and have been practising with it and getting some fairly smooth results. I've been shooting at a resolution of 1920x1080 at 30fps in MPEG4 AVC/H.264. When I watch the video in the LCD display on the video camera or plug my video camera (Sanyo Xacti FH1) into my 40 inch TV the results look smooth. But as soon as I download them onto my computer and watch them in VideoLan or QuickTime, the results are awful. The picture jerks several times a second throughout the panning shots. I have imported some of the clips into VideoStudio Pro X4, and made smart proxies of them and some but not all of them run smoothly but when I create an MP4 HD file in VS4 the results are just once again awfully jerky. My computer is only a couple of months old: AMD Athlon II X4651 Quad Core and Radion HD6700 series graphics card with 4Gb of ROM running Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit. What I can't understand is why the panning looks so smooth on the camera and on my TV (so it isn't due to the small size of the camera's LCD) but as soon as I download it to the computer it looks so awful. I'm aiming to put up some film clips of archaeological sites in Crete on YouTube and I am due to go round the island shooting video but I can't possibly put results like these on the Internet. What could be causing the difference between what my camera shows and what my computer shows?
To get a full body shot, I have to turn my camera on its side. I start with a 16:9 aspect ratio. After the shots are loaded into the program, the figures are always a little distorted to the short side. This is always after I rotate the video 90 degrees so that it is upright. Is there a solution to this problem?
Also, sometimes when I use a still image in the video track and a video in the pip track, the still image won't fill up the entire screen. This situation also occurs when a video has been rotated 90 degrees.
I cut out the sky in the top layer of the timeline and the sky still beneath it is showing through. I need to color match the two shots. How can I see both shots in the CC effect so I can match the two?
i'm new in Smoke, and in the first time i'm learning the conform and editing tools,one thing i'm looking for is how to sequential rename my shots in the timeline, i found this article in the forum but it's for the 2012 and i didn't found this tool in the 2013 version. URL....
I need to adjust the exposure on the face but can't get it to look natural. I have tried Select colour range and have played with the levels but nothing looks right.
