I shot with a Canon EOS 5D one image as a RAW and JPG.When I view with Canon Digital Phot Professional, both files are identical in exposure. They look just the way it shows on my camera LCD display, but when i open both file on photoshop CS5 or Bridge there is a huge drop in exposure on the RAW file. The jpg is fine. There is a huge difference in exposure between the RAW and jpg? It's the same file.
I have some photos I took years ago, and then took some more, on the same film, not realizing I already had photos on the frames, resulting in double exposures. I want to keep both sets of photos - two different locations, some light scenes, some darker, of people and objects. How can I best correct these? I have Adobe Pkhotoshop Elements 9, I believe it is.
All of my photos are 8 bit, but when I open them I get a message at the bottom of the screen reading "exposure works in 32-bit only". When I save these photos as any file type (JPEG, PNG, ect) they seem to export as 32bits/channel. That is to say, that they appear very dark and saturated, exactly how they look in PS if I select the 32bits/channel mode option.I may be getting confused between the 32/64bit versions of PS (i'm using 64bit CS5 at the moment.) But i'm really puzzled as to how I can export my images looking the same as they were when I imported them.
I need to adjust the exposure on the face but can't get it to look natural. I have tried Select colour range and have played with the levels but nothing looks right.
I have a 4x5 color negative that I accidentally double exposed. The image I want to salvage was double exposed with a relatively simple exposure of a sky and sea horizon so the information I want to remove is relatively smooth and not terribly complex.
Okay, I just purchased a new computer, it's Windows 8, 64 bit ... anyhow, I noticed when I try to edit an image, using any tool, clone, erase, the image turns black (the whole thing) and then gets normal again ... I just downloaded CS5 I had on my other computer .... would the 32 bit 64 bit thing come in to play with what's happening here....?
I noticed at the bottom it says 'exposure works in 32 bit only' ?
The girl in the picture below unfortunately passed away, and as a gift to her mom I'd love to fix up the picture a bit and give to her. This picture was scanned in, and I know enough about Photoshop to remove dust particles and such, but not knowledgeable enough to reduce the sun exposure on the faces, hair and arm.
This photo means a lot to me, and If I could keep the picture resolution and quality as best as possible, as I may enlarge it just a bit.
Myself and the fiance were at a wedding last night. Just managed to get a picture with the woman on the right whom we haven't seen in ages. Unfortunately, iPhone's don't take pictures very well without proper lighting with its built in flash..
How to reduce the exposure on this picture, fix red eye, maybe whiten teeth (are they really that dull grey ) and possibly take that blurry guy out from the background.
The only important fix would be to reduce the exposure . All my "Auto-Fix" edit programs cause a bad glare and the picture loses color.
When I send photos to photoshop, they come back to Lightroom noticeably lighter even If I don't edit the picture in Photoshop. I'm using Lightroom 4.2, Photoshop CS6, images are RAW, and OS is Windows 8.
I have a Nikon D7000, I use Photoshop CS5. I took multiple exposures in-camera in RAW and they appear fine on the back of my camera, and in the finder window on my Mac, but when uploaded and viewed through Bridge and Photoshop the images are monochromatic RED in color. I have contacted Nikon and they say they can not guarantee compatibility with 3rd party software. No amount of editing, that I have found, returns the colors to where they should be (NOT RED).
I have a photo in RAW format, shot with a flash where the photo is properly exposed except for the face on the subject. It is badly overexposed. Any tips on correcting exposure in just that area? I think I understand the general steps - mask and correct, but would like any tips since this is the first time I'm doing such a thing. Usually, exposure correction for me involved the entire photo.
I want to make a really long-exposure shot using my Canon 40D DSLR. If I just set the camera to Bulb and take a long exposure, I get a lot of noise that eventually wipes out the image. I understand that you can achieve the equivalent of a long-exposure by combining several (many?) shorter exposures of the same scene. This is routinely done in Astrophotography and other areas, but I don't know how to do it. I tried googling some of the terms, but I guess I didn't use the right terminology because the search didn't turn up what I wanted.
I find it so frustrating when I spend time editing a photograph in PSE 9 only to find when when I'm done, the finished product looks completely different everywhere else on my computer and online. The Photoshop display is too light and washes out the photos, giving an inaccurate image. Is there any way to set the display to be more accurate?
I would like to get rip of the 2 light circles under the connecting bridge at the center of the picture
my best photoshop technique is to add fireworks to a pictureI have tried the clone/heal tool in lightroom but the outcome wasn't very good, it replaced the flare with another noticeable circles.
I have an image that I rendered in 3ds Max 2013 using iRay. There is a visible horizon line present in the image that I am trying to edit out. However, adjusting the levels, curve or exposure does absolutely nothing to the part of the image I am trying to edit. They do however work on the parts im not trying to edit. I'm sure this explains very little, so here is a lower res version showing whats up.
Try to edit the levels on the TV layer; the matte shadows and horizon line stay the same, while the TV adjusts as expected.[URL]...
I have a walkthru camera tied to a path. I start outside and move under a canopy at the front door. I need to change the exposure control when the camera goew under the canopy. The camera has a key at each end of the path. I tried putting the camera at the point that I wanted to start the exposure control animation and setting a key and then moving to end. The exposure will change but it animates from the start of the path to the end. Is there a way to do what I want to do?
Why when Lightroom loads images (in develop module), all images turns gray and dark (the preview looks fine - expected exposure and full of colour). All settings are on 0, no auto tuning or presets are applied.
Also, when I take pictures (Nikon D4), they looks fine in my back screen and I would guess D4 knows how to calculate exposure. But in Lightroom they all come out at least 1 full stop unexposed, so after adjusting exposure I got unnecessary noise grain (and work).
I even tried to upload thought Nikon View NX (soft for Nikon transfers) first, as I was hoping that after importing files to Lightrooms I will also get camera colour settings (like Landscape, Portrait, Vivid, etc.).
This is screenshoot - when Lightroom loads/process all images they all turn so dark as selected image. Neighboring sunflowers all were the same, and they was as I expected them to be.. Before they turn dark...
I just grabbed the upgrade to Ultimate (already had VSX4) because the product page said "Advanced video stabilization and image enhancement - Fix even the shakiest video with proDAD Mercalli SE—rock-steady video stabilization, rolling-shutter correction and zoom/pan optimization. You can also adjust color, white balance, tone, exposure and more with multicore processor-accelerated color correction, Advanced DeNoise, Auto Exposure and Lensflare filters." and I need some of these features.
Now that I installed it, I need to find where they hide everything.
I found the Mercalli filter for the "shake, rattle and roll" stuff but I haven't found the "Auto Exposure" stuff and I need to turn down the exposure of this video I am working on (lots of light flares). From the above description/paragraph, I would have though the exposure stuff was under Mercalli, but I haven't found it.
I seem to have accidentally animated Exposure Value (located within the Exposure Control).
I don't know how to eliminate the animation and even though I try to manually reset the Exposure Value by turning of Autokey and then setting Exposure Value to the setting I want, I keep encountering a persistence of the animation.
What I mean is that I might reset the Exposure Value to zero, but then when I scrub the track, the Exposure value starts to change. I cannot figure out how to fix this as no matter where I reset the Exposure Value, when I scrub back and forth on the track, the Exposure Value changes to other values...
I've tried looking in the Curve Editor, but haven't been able to find keys. I also don't see any keys in the track.
I am getting an Error message stating "There was an error calculating the effective exposure for the target photo. No photos were changed. The files are jpegs. Is this an issue? I have been successful using this Develop feature on a few files, also jpegs, but more often than not, I am getting this error message. The selected file has an exposure adjustment done in the Develop module. Does MTE only work when the originals are significantly different in their original exposure?
3) Alter the exposure compensation of the copies by either exactly 1 or 2 stops up or down as needed.
4) Merge those shots to form a quasi-HDR composite image.
When I open the master/source picture in Lightroom, how do I change the exposure by exactly one or two stops leaving all of the other settings untouched?
Yes, I know the master exposure slider goes up to 5.00, but what exactly do those values mean if anything in direct correlation to f-stop's? Is it accurate? how changing the exposure is executed.