Photoshop :: Get Red Pixels In Dark Areas When Converting Duo Tone Images To RGB?
Aug 6, 2013
I have been using Duotone with my photos, but since the other day, everytime that I process a photo this way, when I convert then back to RGB mode, the dark (black) areas of the photo become a kind of bitmap of red pixels. I have tried with many different photos from RAW or JPEG files and I get the same result with all of them.
This is an example of the issue. The original is on the left. What may cause this? The photo looks good in duo tone. It is when converting to RGB when the corruption happens.
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Aug 23, 2010
When saving a pdf from Illustrator, close cropped PSD images have a dark edge of pixels in the final PDF. It looks like a black outline when viewed in Acrobat. I have since found if I flatten the transparency before saving as a PDF , it displays fine. Why is the PDF having problems with Illustrator’s use of transparency?
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Mar 14, 2013
I am having a huge issue with Photoshop CS5.5. The gradients and colors are acting crazy. When I bring in a image with a gradient it gets black spots all in the dark areas. Even when I use the default gradient selection this is what happens. When I bring in a picture that should have a white background it turns to black. Now apparently, when I save it out as a JPEG saves correctly without the black line or messed up gradients. So it seems to only be an issue when I am working in Photoshop, the gradients appear messed up. What is wrong with my display?
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Whenever I drag an image off the web into Photoshop it seems like some colors gets pixels, large black areas inside the image. This only occurs in 8-bit mode, when I turn the image to 32-bit it show all colors correctly. But in 32-bit mode I cannot save to web. If I finish the image in 32-bit and then downgrade it to 8-bit, the black parts return.
What I see in 8-bit mode:
What it should look like, and does in 32-bit mode:
If you need any technical specs apart from knowing that I use Photoshop CS5,
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Mar 23, 2011
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Aug 13, 2013
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Feb 2, 2004
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Nov 27, 2013
So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me!
I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated.
I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.
Here are my color settings:
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Sep 22, 2008
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I am using windows XP on a dual core 2.4 PC with 2 Gb ram and an ATI Radeon X1600 series grafix card which I have just updated the driver on. The monitor is an LCD type and is calibrated weekly using a spyder 2 express.
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Aug 28, 2006
After I open the image it is very dark in Photoshop but OK in ImageReady.
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Jun 15, 2008
We've just upgraded a Samsung 21" monitor to a Samsung 30" (305T).
In just TWO applications, Photoshop CS3 and Windows Photo Gallery (Vista64), all photographic images are much too dark. Not subtly, about 3-4 f-stops too dark.
EVERY other of our applications INCLUDING ADOBE BRIDGE AND FIREWORKS, and even Photoshop itself during Save to Web, displays the photos as they should appear.
I've tried setting various profiles in Windows Color Management as the default, including the ICC profile sRGB IEC61966-2.1 (which my reading says we should be using), as well as WCS profiles sRGB virtual and scRGB virtual, and tried using no profile at all. None of these changes makes any apparent difference at all to the images we're seeing.
In Photoshop, I've tried various options too. If set to Monitor Color (Monitor RGB - * wscRGB) Photoshop then displays images as it should. However the Camera Raw display when loading Nikon images is still much too dark, and the Photoshop Save to Web images are much too light. Arrrgh!
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Jun 6, 2005
I create or load an image it is always darker than it is actually supposed to be. When I go to save a created image, it will always be lighter. What I want to know is how to make the image on the screen the same color as when I save it to my computer.
Example: I was following a tutorial to create a banner and when I finished (without saving) it turned out like this. Now, the image from the tutorial is actually suppose to look like this when finished. Then, after I saved the image it looked like how it was suppose to look.
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I'll make the important parts bold.
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I'm working together with a photographic studio in order to study better ways to cut subjects in their photos. So, instead of using the ways we use to cut. We have taken 2 photos for the product. The first is only the background, and the second is the beackground with the product. Look at the attachments in this message. It's a simple example (not taken in the studio, with control of lights and so on, but should work for testing purposes).
Looking at the 2 images, you can see the bottle and his reflex or shadow is the unique content that changes between the 2 scenarios. If you try, for example, place each file as a layer, group them into a smart object then use stack modes, you can take off the bottle from the scenario. We are trying to find a way to get the inverse (leave only the bottle). So, if finding any combination of technique that works, we could speed time in the cutting process by already taking images this way.
(perhaps a combination of blending, use of channels....), anything that could compare the 2 images and calculate the different pixels (this case, the bottle)? or perhaps reach an alpha channel that makes easy to perfectlly cut the image.The difference blending mode, for example, makes a calculation of pixels, but I did not get so much sucess working based on this blend
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I make sure no effect or colors are applied to the frame or picture, but still no effect.
If I force transparency on the actual spread (by placing two white items on top of each other, the topmost multiplied on the master page) then it looks correct at once.
It makes no difference if it is a flat grayscale jpg or a psd, even a psd with a white background turns out this way.
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