CS5.5 or CC – I have experienced several times that flat grayscale imaged - corrected and nice in PhotoShop turns up much too dark when placed in InDesign.
I make sure no effect or colors are applied to the frame or picture, but still no effect.
If I force transparency on the actual spread (by placing two white items on top of each other, the topmost multiplied on the master page) then it looks correct at once.
It makes no difference if it is a flat grayscale jpg or a psd, even a psd with a white background turns out this way.
How do I change the default toolbar background from dark gray to light gray in illustrator CS6? In the older versions, the toolbar backgrounds were light gray. It easier to read on light gray backgrounds. THe same question applies to Photoshop CS6. InDesign CS6 has light gray backgrounds.
I'm trying to combine a monotone image onto a grayscale image to use in my Indesign file. The whole job has to print two colors.
How can I easily make the diaper a PMS color and add it to the grayscale baby and still maintain two colors (PMS + K)
Right now, I'm cheating and combining the PMS diaper onto the grayscale baby in Indesign..... but I really need to have this in Photoshop so I can add shadows to make it more convincing. I tried converting the grayscale to CMYK and deleting all channels but black, didn't work as it took away all the information from the image.
I have many images that I need to change the color mode to gray scale - is there a way to do this fast, other than opening each image and changing its mode to gray scale?
I would also love to be able to change the image sizes all at once - any way to do that?
I do not get the same results with grayscale images reproduced as halftones. While they are not true grayscale prints, the inkjet prints of grayscale images that I print from Photoshop always look good.
However when I see the final publication 20-30% of the halftone images will look dull. Is there some way to better visualize with Photoshop what a grayscale image will look like when printed in halftone?
My default background/work area has been transparent--displayed as a light gray and white checkerboard--forever.
Today it changed to dark gray. It's still transparent, but it shows up on the screen as dark gray. I want it back the way it was. I've read all the solutions on the Adobe forums (using the magic wand, or the background eraser, etc.) and none of them work.
I can't help but think I inadvertently changed some setting,
I'm using Illustrator cs6. I would like to change the dark gray background that surrounds the art board to a step and repeat patterns of our logo. We use screenshots as a means of generating low-res proofs. Having our step and repeat logo pattern as the background would allow us to easily include it in our low-res screenshot proofs. Can I replace the "system file" for the dark gray to our step and repeat pattern?
is it possible to change the background color [outside the artboard] to a dark grey? because i really dont like having a big white screen while working in illustrator.when you normally work in illustrator, the artboard is indicated by a black border line but when you select the artboard editor tool, the background changes to dark grey, so it is possible and that is the effect im looking for, but then permanently.is it possible to do this via the preferences somewhere, or via a hack?
I am trying to get the light blue bow to look as the other bows (dark blue) When I use the color replacement tool and sample the color from the dark blue bow and try to paint the light blue bow it just wont work..it color it with light gray instead of dark blue that I sampled.
I must have pressed some shortcut and now the document background between artboards is no more dark gray (as usual) but fully transparent. How to restore this?
I used the live trace object on a graphic, expanded it to select objects and change the color. Every time I make a selection it goes into gray scale. I will switch the color settings back to cmyk and as soon as I make a selection again its back in gray scale.
I draw comics digitally in Photoshop, working in Gray scale mode to reduce file size (I work very high-res). Is it possible to make Photoshop display certain layers in color, without switching to either CMYK or RGB mode?
My exported gray scale jpeg image is coming back from the printer with a reddish tone. I'm applying a black 0% saturation transparency, using the gray scale color model in the Color Editor and applying it over the color drawing on the top layer.
Still, the print comes back with a reddish tone to it.
I have a LOGO that is vector, a software where im using LOGO says that for best results I must export my LOGO to JPG, at least 300 dots per inch and must be GrayScale.
Now, my LOGO is already black and white, do I have to select somewhere GrayScale to export with that optsion selected or I just export to JPG regular way since LOGO is already BW?
Is there a proper way to gray-scale objects in a drawing? What i have done is turned off layers and point groups that I want to remain in color and selected the rest and changed the color in the properties box. Any way to move back and forth from gray to color.
I'm running photoshop cs3 on XP. Does anyone Know how to change the color or I should say the grayscale of facial features on a photo without changing the texture or anything else. These photo are all grayscale.
For instance if I take a photo and invert it all the grayscale is changed. The hair might be lighter, the nose darker, the eyes somewhere inbetween. Of coarse a perfect negative is made. But lets say I want to lighten the nose a bit without changing its texture or anything else about the nose. And I want it all to blend together just as it was done when the photo was initially inverted ....
I'm using Photoshop CS6. I have a CMYK image of fruit on a white background with a drop shadow that has some cyan, magenta and yellow. The drop shadow is NOT AN EFFECT. It is part of the original photographed image shot against a white background.
I want to turn the drop shadow into a percentage of black only. I have masked the foot so I have the white background and shadow isolated but now I'm not sure the best way to make the shadow a percentage of black only.
How do I return the color gradient or gray scale to beneath the sliders. They are all just currently gray. The whole process just slows me down not seeing the resepctive colors or greys beneath the sliders.
Hopefully my title gets the point across. I've read numerous threads on here where people seem to have the same issue, but I've yet to discover a solution.
I recently bought a new pc and installed Corel Draw X5. When I export to eps and open the eps in Corel, the Pantone colors appear nearly black. This is also true for my clients, although I'm not sure what program they are using to open the eps.
It is worth mentioning that on my old PC I did not have this problem. EPS files I exported from Corel Draw X5 were fine. I could export eps files containing Pantone colors, and the Pantone colors would be there when I opened the eps file.
The settings I'm using under export to eps dialogue are the exact same settings I was using before:
Output colors as Native and PostScript 3.
I am running Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, and CorelDraw X5 15.2.0.695
I have a complex (includes tints) clip art object that needs printing in a specific pantone color I just convert it to grayscale using edit>find and replace objects>color mode. then print it as a black plate and just use another color on press.
Today I had to send off artwork to another printer. Dang. How to install a macro. Import clip art to be modified to a new document, do not do this in your working document.
Use Edit>Find and Replace> Find Objects Replace a color model or palette. Next Leave as is except change Replace with color model to "Grayscale" Next>Replace all
Repeat 2-4 for 'outlines' if you have them.There you now have a gray scale clipart, but the fun continues!You'll need to know what pantone color you want to use. Let's say Reflex Blue. Make a square and color it Reflex blue from a pantone palette.Duplicate the square and create swatches at 90% 80% 70% etc down to white.Select these square swatches, then Windows>Color Palette>Create Palette from Selection. Save palette with a temporary name, it is only time use. Or you could call it 'Reflex Blue'Now go to this website and download the macro "limit colors" URL...
Drop it in your GMS folder in under your username to install the macro. (might have to save the drawing and restart Corel...)Once you reopen your now grayscale clipart document, Select the clipart. Run the macro (Tools>Macros>Run Macros) LimitColors.Posterize select the number of colors in your new palette if you created 10% swatches, go with 11, if you did steps of 20% then you'll do 6 (don't forget white).Run the macro LimitColors.LimitColors and select your new palette you made in step 9.
I saved the image used in the tutorial but it looks darker than it does on the website. Why is that? When I adjust the levels the blacks look too dark even though I made sure my foreground color is less black.
I just started using PhotoShop 7. I noticed that every image I opened is MUCH darker than it appears when looking at it using any other program (Corel/Internet Explorer/Exif). If I adjust the levels inside PhotoShop so that the picture looks good, it become over-exposed in all my other programs.
So I have noticed several people having this problem, and the solutions that work for them don't seem to work for me!
I start in Camera Raw 8.0, then move to photoshop to crop and tweak a little bit more, then when I save to JPEG and view in windows photo viewer or other medium, the photo is dark and overly saturated.
I understand that photoshop is a color mangaged space, and that most other programs are not, but I still can't figure out how to make what I see in photoshop translate to the JPEG image. These will eventually be used on a website and I need everything to look as professional as possible. The image on the right is really dark, especially on the front lawn and porch.
Having used both CS2 and CS3 I now realise that the prints that I work on in either appear much brighter on the screen that they do when printed, as much as 3 stops darker when printed. I have also noticed that in other programs such as Google Picasa that I use as a viewing tool the images appear closer to the images from the printer. I have used various pro-labs that require their profiles to be used and my own epson 3800 printer at home and despite trying lots of different settings I am unable to get prints that look like they do on the screen they are always darker.
I am using windows XP on a dual core 2.4 PC with 2 Gb ram and an ATI Radeon X1600 series grafix card which I have just updated the driver on. The monitor is an LCD type and is calibrated weekly using a spyder 2 express.
