Photoshop :: What Color Space For BW Digital Photography And Printing
Jun 8, 2012
I’m wondering about color spaces and how they affect working with BW digital images and digital printing (working in PS and LR).
I’ve been thinking that the grays are probably more limited by the bit depth (65,536 shades of gray for 16-bit vs. 256 shades for 8-bit.) than by whether or not you’re working in ProPhotoRGB or AdobeRGB, but that’s just a guess on my part. Does these two color spaces really better than the other, specifically for BW images and digital printing (I'm printing to an Epson 3880)?
I have no MS Paint or digital photography skills at all. I have tried, but it never turns out the way I want it to, so I come to the digital photography pros for a favor. Would anyone do a simple job for free? All I need is text added to the picture.
I would like "GA VA 2006-2007" and underneath have "22-14-8". The bottom left would be the best place, I think, but if you have another idea, go for it. All I want is to make it look good.
Although many of these look like they are made in Maya or 3DS they are in fact real people. This is a 2 part question, first is where does one find larger format high res backgrounds like those in the links below and most importantly how can I make my subjects look like they are on a poster. If anyone knows how this is done that would be great! I am at a loss! What programs were likely used?
I have now finally taken the plunge and added a D100 to my camera bag (cracking camera).
Having been to a local camera club however I was dissapointed to see that all the phorographs displayed had drastically overexposed sky's and much detail lost as a result. It strikes me as somewhat lazy that nobody appears to have made any effort to compensate for this.
I do like night / available light photgraphy and notice from working with friends on night shoots that digital cameras can give unnatural daylight effects (partly because they dont suffer reciprocity I guess).
When using my F100 I would naturally tend to use filters (polarizer, ND grads etc) to retain some colour and detail in the sky. Similarly when using Mono I would use the usual red, yellow, green filters etc or I guess I could carry on using my Cokin P filters with my D100 or get a similar effect using photoshop (one I have worked through a few tutorials)
I know that P/Shop can emulate grad filters but what about polarizers?
I'm creating images in Photoshop and printing to a Xerox solid ink printer. If I print in greyscale everything is fine, but if I have an image that has both color and B&W portions, the greys come out green (or brown depending on whether I print from CMYK or RGB). Is there any way to have a portion of an image in a color space and others in greyscale?
what I might try as far as the printer? If I print CMYK the greys come out really green but all the other colors are good. If I print RGB the greys come out browner (which is a little better), but other colors get muddy.
Is there any way to get a printer to stop trying to "interpret" greys as a color when in a color mode?
Glad to find this forum. I'm a photographer who frequents the photocamel forum a lot, and a recent post there intrigued me. I can't add to the thread but thought some of the pros that hang out here could. How do you think the photographer in this thread did it?
i would like to capture standardized photos of an object that is observed if it's changing its color.
an example is the yellowing of a paper. to detect this, i need an apparature that guarantees same capturing conditions as light and "film-focus distance". does someone have experiences with this problem?
second problem is how to determinate the colors correctly and, if necessary, change colors of the following photos digitally to the colors of the first photo.
here i've thought of using a test-picture in background that can give me a "mark" how my camera has changed natural colors. will it be possible to customize the color of the test-picture (beside the object) digitally and thus achieve the exact/same color of my object?
i am using Windows XP SP3 Pentium 4 3,0 GHz 2 GB RAM DDR2 Photoshop CS4 Canon Eos 450D - Makro Objective with ring-flash
I work in a dental x-ray clinic. We just purchased a digital x-ray machine. It is important to dentists that the image size is printed one to one. I will probably learn how to make the machine software do it but I'm hoping that this board could help me use Photoshop to do it as well.
The image has a centimetre ruler on it. I dragged the image onto a blank document the size of my paper. I used the Transform box to increase the size until 1 cm on the image's ruler size matches 1 cm on Photoshop's ruler. This is trial and error, though. It took me many size changes until the image was the right size.
I'm using Photoshop 7. Can I use a tool that will allow me to define 1 cm on the image's ruler and then change the size to 1cm according to Photoshop's ruler, thereby changing the whole image's size with it?
When I export RAW files, specifying that I want the output to be in sRGB color space the resulting files have the Adobe RGB color space. The same is true if I specify I want them in ProPhoto. Is this a bug? I have done it successfully in other versions of Lightroom, but not in 4.3.
New to PSP and I took some night time photos of a car using long exposure, the pictures are clear and focused but they have that yellow-orange street light tint to them. Is there an easy way in PSP X6 to get rid of that color cast?
I'm shooting in RAW in Large with a Nikon D5100 if that matters for this. I'm not bothered how I output it as up to now I've just experimented on screen. No error codes yet!
Is blurb a good program for printing a digital photobook? Is the LR5 process better than downloading blurb and then sending it in to be published?Which of the LR5 blurb options is the best?
I'm a Model Railroader, as the screen name implies. "RRArtist" RailRoad Artist. Anyway, I have a MoPar garage, planned, I have this 3D model, built, I'm merely working on a sign, that is based off I think the 1950's.....This sign, will depict my interests in MoPar, a "Hemi", and the classy girls used back in the day, as part of the sign, AND will be lighted......SO, in 1/87th to the foot scale (Pretty small) its nearly impossible to get a "Hemi" motor, and be able to see that it is a Hemi! SO, my plan, is to take a 1:25th scale Hemi motor, and mount it to a sign pole, that's a pipe, to carry wires for lighting. Then UNDER this sign, will be a girl, that looks as tho, she is holding up a sign that says "Hemi" in the old "MoPar" signage.....UNDER her will be this Hemi Motor.....BUT the lighting is the fun part as the "lamp shades. will be CHROMED Hemi Valve Covers.....With the motor itself, painted orange, with black valve covers.....
Now this girl on the sign, is the issue.............. The girl is actually a blonde.....(don't ask LOL) I need to change her hair color... to red! Problem is? The clothing shes wearing, a short skirt, or short shorts, that are also...........RED.... so, it leaves way to much "red" for the sign......Looks good as is, don't get me wrong, BUT, if I can replace her blonde hair with red hair, to match the "looks" of the image, to be "believable" is GREAT, BUT I want to remove the red from her clothing, and make it Hemi Orange.......... trimmed in black with the silverish looks it already has, blended into the red as you will see...
This whole project is going on a display I'm adding to my layout for looks for when I run trains and to show my other interest.......... old MoPar muscle cars that were Hemi with a garage to repair them, from back in the day......Trying to make all the colors fall into place is my issue!
I've noticed that if I convert the same image to multiple color spaces and apply a 3D LUT with the new Color Lookup adjustment, the result is noticeably different. From experimenting, it seems that the lookup tables operate on whatever RGB value is given to them no matter what color space.
Is there a certain color space these were optimized for? For instance, would a certain color space give me a more authentic 2-strip look than another because of the space they were sampled in? And if I create my own 3D LUTs, would I have to create a separate one for each color space in order to get a consistent look in all spaces?
I've just got a new monitor and i have downloaded an ICC profile to use as i don't have calibration hardware yet. I've loaded it in Windows using color management. My question now is what color 'working space' i should set in Photoshop.
I must say that learning about color has been a steep learning curve for me so I have tried to avoid it as much as i can!!! If a total novice guide on color has been covered in another thread just point me there!
I reloaded my CAD and now I have a black background in paperspace. This is what I want but I want it to print white while haveing a black backgroud for drawing. How do I do this?
No problem when printer manages color. 1-hour photo service was fine also. Printer color management is turned off, in fact greyed out. I tried different papers and icc profiles with same results. CS5, Mac OSX 10.8.3, Canon Pro 9500 Mark II.
I'm exporting Tiff Prophoto files from Lightroom into PSPX4 for further processing. The images are 1 to 2 stops under exposed when compared to Lightroom's image.I have selected PSPX4 color profile to match LR export color space.
I have tried exporting the Tiffs as sRGB and adode1998 and still the images are under exposed. I have little knowledge about color management and have searched around the web for possible answers, but no luck.
I am having a problem with all of my lines showing up on my prints when printing a 3D model. When I do a print preview, all of my lines show up but when I print to an actual sheet of paper or to PDF, the lines do not show up.
Never had this issue before. Just started a new big job and 8 files out of the 25 are also printing the model space when doing the Batch Plot. In the past it has only ever printed the Layout Page. And why some are printing the Model Space and the Layout is beyond me.
I have a 3D drawing with a cylinder in it. I use viewports in paper space. Sometimes only part of the cylinder outline shows in viewport or prints. I can trace over it in paper space, but that's a hack. What's the real solution? Autocad 2008
I just figured it out. It only happens with shading to 3D hidden. Change it to just plain hidden and problem goes away.
I have drawn a small machine of 3D components in the model space. Each component is placed on a separate layer so that i can isolate each component. Now I need to print machine drawings for each component in paper space. I can open a view port in the paper space and freeze all the other components not needed to get the view of the one component. the problem is that on the next paper when i try and put a view of the next item by thawing the new item and freezing the previous one, this affects the first as well. What is the best way to isolate individual components from a 3D model for printing machine drawings?
We print out spot color seps every day using CorelDraw X4. After we print out the plates, I have to cut down the vellum that we print on so that we do not have a bunch of extra blank vellum on the sheet.
We make use of the info that is printed on the lower left of every page where it states something like the following:
S:DirectoryWhereTheArtworkisLocatedfilename.cdr
Wednesday, December 23, 2011 8:00 AM
Plate: 1 of 3
After I cut down the sheet, I then have to hand write the name of the spot color onto the sheet of vellum in marker.
Is there any way at all, to make it so that CorelDraw would actually add the name of the spot color that is printed on each page to the information that is already being printed to the lower left? Ideally, it could be placed in the same area where it's already printing the plate information on the last line.
I got my monitor calibrated/profiled already and I am ready to work on some pictures. Do I need to fiddle with color settings in Photoshop? I bring them in from RAW to photoshop as ProPhoto. Do I need to do anything else?
my 20d is set to sRGB. My woring space in photoshop is set to sRGB. When I take a photo and bring it in, the exif just say "RGB" - not sRGB and not Adobe. So I'm no sure what "RGB" is. But anyway, I'm trying to avoid having to "Image/Mode/Convert to sRGB" and no matter what I do, unless I MANUALLY do that option from the menu, my images always look crummy grey.
Ok so I thought, "I'll create a batch process" so I created an action with a file/open/image/mode/convert and selected sRGB, did a close on the file, stopped the action. I tried applying it to each image in a directory. They STILL came out grey. But when I manually selected the option, they looked great.
What's going on here? I don't want to have to manually convert each image like that. Why can't I seem to get my photoshop environment to ONLY work with sRGB?
A lot of the time, I wil create an image in photoshop (and in mind, all of the work that I do is 100% for the web) and somewhere in that image will be a nice blue color but when i export that image, it will be purple, not the blue that i had made.
Somehow, at this point, I think i have everything all goofed up between my monitor, adobe gamma and photoshops color profiles.
For instance, i was looking in a book of color and found this nice yellow tone (y30, 0 0 0) that looked wonderful on paper, similar to colors i see online.. I transalted that to #FFFAB2 in photoshop, looked right.. I then went to my web editor, made the BG of a table that color.. and it now appears to be a murky maize color, not the light grey/yellow at all i had aimed for.
the color spaces in photoshop and its relationship to adobe gamma and maybe some pointers on how to set this all up so that it fits the right bill? I know this is a terrbily vague question, but my understanding of this is also vague and i would love some blanks filled in. My monitor is a sony trinitron MultiScan E540, 21", 2 years old.
