Photoshop :: Digital Landscape Photography - Filter Emulation
May 29, 2006
I have now finally taken the plunge and added a D100 to my camera bag (cracking camera).
Having been to a local camera club however I was dissapointed to see that all the phorographs displayed had drastically overexposed sky's and much detail lost as a result. It strikes me as somewhat lazy that nobody appears to have made any effort to compensate for this.
I do like night / available light photgraphy and notice from working with friends on night shoots that digital cameras can give unnatural daylight effects (partly because they dont suffer reciprocity I guess).
When using my F100 I would naturally tend to use filters (polarizer, ND grads etc) to retain some colour and detail in the sky. Similarly when using Mono I would use the usual red, yellow, green filters etc or I guess I could carry on using my Cokin P filters with my D100 or get a similar effect using photoshop (one I have worked through a few tutorials)
I know that P/Shop can emulate grad filters but what about polarizers?
I have no MS Paint or digital photography skills at all. I have tried, but it never turns out the way I want it to, so I come to the digital photography pros for a favor. Would anyone do a simple job for free? All I need is text added to the picture.
I would like "GA VA 2006-2007" and underneath have "22-14-8". The bottom left would be the best place, I think, but if you have another idea, go for it. All I want is to make it look good.
Although many of these look like they are made in Maya or 3DS they are in fact real people. This is a 2 part question, first is where does one find larger format high res backgrounds like those in the links below and most importantly how can I make my subjects look like they are on a poster. If anyone knows how this is done that would be great! I am at a loss! What programs were likely used?
I’m wondering about color spaces and how they affect working with BW digital images and digital printing (working in PS and LR).
I’ve been thinking that the grays are probably more limited by the bit depth (65,536 shades of gray for 16-bit vs. 256 shades for 8-bit.) than by whether or not you’re working in ProPhotoRGB or AdobeRGB, but that’s just a guess on my part. Does these two color spaces really better than the other, specifically for BW images and digital printing (I'm printing to an Epson 3880)?
Glad to find this forum. I'm a photographer who frequents the photocamel forum a lot, and a recent post there intrigued me. I can't add to the thread but thought some of the pros that hang out here could. How do you think the photographer in this thread did it?
I need re Multiplicity Photography, when I get as far as the brush using the black foreground on Photoshop CS 5, its paints black on the subject instead of showing background where the subject was sitting .
to create a more vintage look through photoshop. I am trying to create a look like WWII aircraft nose art, and old photos of celebrites like some early color photos of Marilyn Monroe.
When photographing a subject in front of or standing on a Chromakey background, I always get reflected blue light on the subject. I can't seem to get rid of the background in photoshop without spilling over into the subject.
night photography particularly with over exposure. how people edit they photos to make the nice halo effect or almost star effect around street lights and such on night photos. And how an effect like this could be done with actually have an over exposed photo...look at the bottom right....
I'm trying to learn how to do low-light night photography, including some astrophotography. I bought an intervalometer and just collected 100 photos. Using Bridge I load all 100 into Photoshop layers. It took a fairly long time (several minutes) to load, but is it seems they all loaded correctly. The problem is now whenever I do anything in Photoshop I get an error message saying there's not enough RAM. Also, everything else on the computer slows way down. I went to PS preferences and upped the RAM to the max I have available, 3.3 Gb. Didn't work.
I'm taking all the shots as RAW files. Should I be shooting JPEGs instead? Do I just need more RAM? 3.3 Gb seems like it should be enough.I'm using a Canon 40D, CS6, and a Mac Mini running OSX 10.8.4.
i would like to capture standardized photos of an object that is observed if it's changing its color.
an example is the yellowing of a paper. to detect this, i need an apparature that guarantees same capturing conditions as light and "film-focus distance". does someone have experiences with this problem?
second problem is how to determinate the colors correctly and, if necessary, change colors of the following photos digitally to the colors of the first photo.
here i've thought of using a test-picture in background that can give me a "mark" how my camera has changed natural colors. will it be possible to customize the color of the test-picture (beside the object) digitally and thus achieve the exact/same color of my object?
i am using Windows XP SP3 Pentium 4 3,0 GHz 2 GB RAM DDR2 Photoshop CS4 Canon Eos 450D - Makro Objective with ring-flash
I would like to ask a question about architectural photography lighting and retouching techniques. You can see some sample sites below: URL.....
These photos are very impressive and possibly taken as HDR.The question is; this transformation can be possible just photoshop retouching even using light? It looks like 3D rendering or PS drawing but we don't sure. Is it Photoshop Plug-In or what kind of technique is it?
I am purchasing a new computer and whether nVidia or AMD would be better for use with Photoshop CS6. In my previous computers, I've only ever had an integrated video card and they worked okay enough with Photoshop. But now I have the opportunity to purchase a computer with an nVidia/2 Gig Vram or an AMD Radeon/1 gig VRAM video card.
I know so much depends on the cpu speed, ram, whether or not you have multiple hard drives, etcetera. What I want for all the other components of the computer, but I have no working knowledge of video cards.
I use Photoshop for photo editing and I also want to eventually use it for High Definition Photography editing.
I need to create a bitmap logo for website and this is the only source I have to work with:Since I have close to zero experience with vector graphics, I obviously cannot redraw it with Illustrator or any similar software. I've already tried with some simplified software specialized for vectors graphics and converters, but without any decent luck.
Does anyone know how make the same style of Retouch on faces that they used on "the Departed DVD" cover. It makes the faces looks almost like a detailed painting. I been looking forever to find a tutorial on this style. Check out the link below to see what I am talking about.
I am interested in building an automated retouching system for a specific form of photography. The system needs to be able to handle a large workflow of images and create a look that is desirable and state of the art. I can see that there are a lot of systems out there that deal with portraiture etc and feel that if we could develop a similar system with actions for the specific work that I shoot it would be great.
I had subsctibed to the single program verion of CC early last year and purchased LR5 as soon as it was available, long before the Photography Bundle was introduced. Now I have no need for LR5 licence. Is there a way to unregister the program and have everything under CC? I have no need to install on 4 machines. Possibly transfer the LR licence?
I tried to use the lens flare filter in Photoshop CS6.While the lighting effect is interesting, it introduces ugly artifacts like blue or orange blobs (which are supposed to be the reflection of the diaphragm, but do not look anywhere close to that, but instead are just cheesy looking blobs of color).
In the "movie prime" setting blue lines are added which have nothing to do with lens flar.On top of it, the preview is about the size of a stamp. Any way to use the filter without getting these artifacts, or is it - what I assume - just a useless toy filter, that has probably been dragged on for years and years because it's always been there? What do you use to create a lens flare effect? Are you just building it from scratch with brush work?
