Photoshop :: Turn Photograph Into Embossing Stamp?
Sep 29, 2013
I am trying to take the following image and turn it into an embossing die.This is what I have done using the notebook filter but I wanted to ask you all if there is a better way to get a good clean single channel outline of an image like the one above.
any links to websites that shows you how to turn a normal 2D picture into a photograph?
Like you know, I've some picture I got from the web, and I want to use Photoshop to modify this picture so that it becomes a cool-looking photograph with the edges being flipped a little and there's all those white borders around the picture, like a real photo!
I know of some websites which I saved to my browser's favorites list, but my PC crashed and the links got lost!
I am looking to extract natural noise from a photographs material and create a black and white layer out of it, but I am new to photoshop and unsure how to proceed with this.
For example, here is a photograph of a hard plastic gun.
I have seen on forums where users will find a good reference image and use it to create a new black and white noise picture utilizing the reference.
For instance the hard plastic noise from the gun, might look like this once extracted and done correctly.
I have done one job with new camcorder and the time and date stamp is on the video. I have looked all through the manual and I cannot find out how to turn off the time and date stamp. Do I turn off at camcorder or with Premiere Pro? I don't want it on my videos.
I have a psd web page, which can be cropped into sections for saving as jpegs. when i crop the top oblong piece, all 4 edges go embossed. the left hand edge that connects to another image shouldnt be embossed. how do i save the oblong piece without it changing the left edge to embossed. i need the left edge that joins on flat?
I need to emboss ( cut in ) some grooves into a cylinder, but in such a way, so that they won't get narrower. What do you think would be the best way to do that?
I know how to do embossing in parts. I know how to work with iparts. I have not found a way to use embossing inside an ipart that will allow me to change the text on each member. We do steel rings and each one of them has the size and pressure rating embossed in it. What I'm trying to achieve is to have the embossing change according to each member automatically
1. Multiple faces 2. surfaces that are not flat, cylindrical or conical
I have tried using the “stitch surface” command but I can’t seem to get it to select .
The surface was created using the loft command, but I don’t know how to select it as a composite surface . When I am doing the emboss. Maybe it has to be done using another method besides emboss?
I want to engrave the text 'TEST' all the way around this clonal object. When I use the emboss tool, selecting the option 'wrap to face,' it gives me an error message that the "face selected is not tangent to the profile plane."
I am using a work plane that is offset from the XY plane. I included a screen shot and the file that I am using (Inv. 2014)
This is something that I've been able to do without a problem in the past and now something has happened where it no longer works. When I insert a picture either into a new blank file or onto another picture and then click on the new picture to resize, it appears that the tool sees only the original document and not the photograph that I've just dragged onto it. It does not show the dotted line selection or the resize handles. Also when I try to use the resize menu option in either canvas or image option it changes the whole document and not the new photograph.
I am trying to add some effects to a photograph of mine like the photo below. Can anybody tell me what tools and options i might use to create a background layer like this one into my own photograph, and maybe how to transform a face in a regular photograph to one like below?
This is a photograph that was taken about a year ago with a standard point-and-shoot Kodak CX4230. The problem, as you can see, is bright sunlight behind the subjects, and therefore they are very dark. I've tried, but can not seem to improve it much, maybe it's impossible, I don't know. But I was wondering if some of you guys would take a stab at improving the photo.
How do I attach a simple grid to a photograph for the purpose of sketching. I prefer to draw from an image via photoshop as opposed to a print out being that the quality is better. There is also the added advantage of being able to zoom in.
i m making a 3d model of landscape design, i need some trees from photographs for visualization purposes in elevations. however it's not possible to extract them from a photograph neatly using extract tool from filter. how can i do a nice extraction?
Back in the early 80's I had an exhibition of my paintings and took photos from an Olympus OM-10. Each painting had a spotlight mounted above it and as you can see from the attached picture, the light glare is strong at the top of the painting (washing out the color and details) and the glare extends about halfway down the photo. I have Photoshop CS3 Extended. how to eliminate the glare from the top half of the painting?
I've heard that when making a photograph smaller in Photoshop the results are better if it's done in steps instead of all at once.
If this is true how much should it be reduced each time and should the change in pixels per inch be done before reducing the image
My camera saves at 300 ppi at 3872 pixels wide (sometimes they are cropped which makes them smaller) and for the web I need about 500 pixels wide at 72 ppi.
I have a few brochure files - and I want to make them look like this:What do I mean by "this"... I want to give them this folded look as not to have them on my portoflio so flat and plain...
Is there a way I can make like a template in Photoshop - including the "warping" so that the paper looks slightly curved? Would an Action be the way to go?
I am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.
Their order is:
Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background.
Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print.
I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3.
In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi. In step 3, I crop only to get the child then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result.
On opening a photograph in CS6, the image is incomplete.
I have just installed Photoshop CS6 (hope I'm not going to live to regret this), apart from the problems with installing plugins, when I open a file the image is incomplete with anything up to 25% of the image missing. If I create a duplicate background copy the problem is resolved. This is not satisfactory on software of this nature.
I recently bought Photoshop 12, having previously had Photoshop 9. With Photoshop 9 I could resize a photograph to 60mm by 40mm (say) and insert it into a text in Windows 7 at exactly that size and textwrap it. When I try to do this using Photoshop 12, the image fills the A4 page, even though it confirms that the resized photograph is 60mm by 40mm. What am I doing wrong?
I have just learned how to apply a watermark or copyright to a group of photographs using an action command. But as the action is running, before each image closes, I get the window asking me to specify image quality (1 to 12). I have to hit 'OK' for each image before it closes, and the action completes the rest.
Does anyone know how to add this to the action or have 'ok' automatically hit so I don't have to push it for each image. A friend of mine has a piece of software that does it automatically, but I cannot remember the name of it and want to know if it is something within Photoshop that can do it. I am currently running PHOTOSHOP CS.
If I have two photos, one set at opacity 50% over the other, and saved as a JPG (see double.jpg), and I have one of them alone (see single.jpg) is it possible to get what the other image was?