How do I attach a simple grid to a photograph for the purpose of sketching. I prefer to draw from an image via photoshop as opposed to a print out being that the quality is better. There is also the added advantage of being able to zoom in.
View 1 RepliesI'm a presumed hobbyist trying out 3DS Max and Maya for the first time. I'd like to know if there's a quick and dirty way to use a photograph to attach a face to an existing character or avatar.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am looking to extract natural noise from a photographs material and create a black and white layer out of it, but I am new to photoshop and unsure how to proceed with this.
For example, here is a photograph of a hard plastic gun.
I have seen on forums where users will find a good reference image and use it to create a new black and white noise picture utilizing the reference.
For instance the hard plastic noise from the gun, might look like this once extracted and done correctly.
how to produce something such as this?
I have a user and when he's in sketch mode he trys to draw a line but it keeps on snapping to a grid. Both snap and grid setting are switched off. I can't find any settings he has different from my own set-up so I'm finding it hard to fox this problem. FYI, this user is a bit of a problem and tends to change settings without even realising he's doing it.
He's using Inventor 2012.
Revit has a propensity to locate a lay-in ceiling grid with a grid intersection in the center of the room. You can use the alignment tool to align the grid with a wall. But I see no way to center a tile in a room. This is often a necessity in a narrow room, to keep the lights centered. Also, installers, when not given specific instructions to the contrary, will often locate the ceiling grid to minimize narrow tiles at the wall. We need more control over the position of the grid.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen i pick points from the drawing using the ID command i recieve a long and meaningless coordinate which is useless to me when setting out. How i can rotate my drawing so that firstly its aligned with my grid and secondly give it the same coordinates as my site based local coordinated grid?
View 9 Replies View RelatedWhen using the perspective grid tool and type, I have a word on the right side of the grid in perspective, and I want to make a shadow of this word flat on the bottom grid. (Like how a tall building casts a shadow flat on the ground)
I tried using the shear tool to do it but it is a bit tricky getting it just right. There must be an easier way to do it within the perspective tool grid.
When I type the word and align it to the bottom grid, how do I rotate it whilst still being aligned in perspective on the bottom grid?If I try and rotate the word using the selection tool it rotates off axis so it is no longer laying flat on the bottom grid.
Words placed on the bottom grid always read from the left vanishing point - I want the word to read from the right vanishing point so it aligns with my word on the right grid wall.
Understanding that composite volumes are typically more accurate, I have a reason to evaluate the volume between two surfaces via a grid volume. Easily created a grid volume surface using a 50' grid (50' is large for this site, but wanted to get a feel for calculation time).
Question: Can you change the grid size without creating a new grid surface? Ultimately I woud like to explore the difference in volumes based on grid sizing without creating a long list of surfaces. One would expect that you could chage the grid spacing in surface properties, but the values are non-editable.
I was working on some isometric drawings for my CAD class and I can't seem to figure out how to get the grid back to the standard 2D grid view that I used to get when opening CAD. I now jusr get this dotted grid every time:
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I have an interior laid out on a scaled grid, and I want to print a copy that displays the grid (ie: visible on the printed page). But everything (& I mean everything) indicates that grids per definition NEVER print.
I also thought that I could create my own grid on a separate layer, but if that's an option, I can't find that either...
This is something that I've been able to do without a problem in the past and now something has happened where it no longer works. When I insert a picture either into a new blank file or onto another picture and then click on the new picture to resize, it appears that the tool sees only the original document and not the photograph that I've just dragged onto it. It does not show the dotted line selection or the resize handles. Also when I try to use the resize menu option in either canvas or image option it changes the whole document and not the new photograph.
View 1 Replies View Relatedis there a way that I can turn a bunch of photographs into some 2d drawings?
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhat is the best way to acheive this affect?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to add some effects to a photograph of mine like the photo below. Can anybody tell me what tools and options i might use to create a background layer like this one into my own photograph, and maybe how to transform a face in a regular photograph to one like below?
View 1 Replies View RelatedThis is a photograph that was taken about a year ago with a standard point-and-shoot Kodak CX4230. The problem, as you can see, is bright sunlight behind the subjects, and therefore they are very dark. I've tried, but can not seem to improve it much, maybe it's impossible, I don't know. But I was wondering if some of you guys would take a stab at improving the photo.
View 4 Replies View Relatedhow to turn and photograph of a female model into what looks like an airbrush / pin up painting.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm looking for an option to adjust the grid size and to snap-to-grid.
For some purposes, you can find a way around this, but it is a pain when working on a project that requires perfect precision.
The topic has been brought up before, but I'm hoping to hear of any news on the possibility of implementing it. I don't assume there has been made any plugins to cater this need since earlier posts on the matter, so I'm hoping to persuade developers to implement the feature in a new version of paint.net instead.
If you need to know more specifically what I'm looking for, then it's basically what you have in Adobe Illustrator or any decent 3D modelling software you will ever come across. It would work pretty much exactly like the grid already in place, except you would not be limited to working only with individual pixels, but rather groups of pixels as you zoom further out. The grid would preferably have thicker lines every 5, 10 or 15 lines, etc. for user to position the various elements.
I'm using Paint.NET 3.5.8 on Windows 7 SP1 64-bit.
While editing small (16 x 16) images, I noticed that Paint.NET used a grid with a width of 2 pixels. Selection rectangles snap to this grid, as do paste operations.
How can I specify the grid width or disable this snap to grid effect altogether?
want to translate my vector illustrations to charts for cross stitch kits. Using the grid tool, but the lines aren't equally spaced? I have a 100cm x 100cm document at the moment, with 1 cm making a 'stitch'. I want a grid that is 100cm x 100cm, made up of 1cm x 1cm squares for simplicity. Then be able to print the design out on the grid.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI'm new in InDesign. How do I remove the purple grid that was already there when I made my document, WITHOUT removing ALL my grids?
View 5 Replies View Relatedi m making a 3d model of landscape design, i need some trees from photographs for visualization purposes in elevations. however it's not possible to extract them from a photograph neatly using extract tool from filter. how can i do a nice extraction?
View 2 Replies View RelatedBack in the early 80's I had an exhibition of my paintings and took photos from an Olympus OM-10. Each painting had a spotlight mounted above it and as you can see from the attached picture, the light glare is strong at the top of the painting (washing out the color and details) and the glare extends about halfway down the photo. I have Photoshop CS3 Extended. how to eliminate the glare from the top half of the painting?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI've heard that when making a photograph smaller in Photoshop the results are better if it's done in steps instead of all at once.
If this is true how much should it be reduced each time and should the change in pixels per inch be done before reducing the image
My camera saves at 300 ppi at 3872 pixels wide (sometimes they are cropped which makes them smaller) and for the web I need about 500 pixels wide at 72 ppi.
how i could make it look inflatable like a tube or those boats.
is there a stylize effect for this?
i havent found a tutorial to do this i need a body of a real person morphed into a 3d character.
can any one help me out with this?
Saw this effect in a magazine and wondered how I could go about recreating it in Photoshop. Is it some kind of warped shadow effect?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using Photoshop CS3 (windows) and I would like to emboss a logo to into a photograph so that the logo becomes part of the photo.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a few brochure files - and I want to make them look like this:What do I mean by "this"... I want to give them this folded look as not to have them on my portoflio so flat and plain...
Is there a way I can make like a template in Photoshop - including the "warping" so that the paper looks slightly curved? Would an Action be the way to go?
I am new to the entire graphics arts area. (I do network design for a living). I have been reading the "Adobe Photoshop CS5 Classroom in a Book" and I don't understand their logic for the order they say to use to retouch a photograph.
Their order is:
Duplicating the original image or scanEnsuring that the resolution is appropriate for the way you'll use the imageCropping the image to final size and orientationetc.
For their example they use a picture of a child walking around a ring with a brick wall as the background.
Now, lets say that I wanted the final image to be of the child only and 3 inches wide by 5 inches high, and 72 ppi (pixels per inch) for a print.
I disagree with the order of steps 2 and 3.
In step 2, I decrease the pixel information to 72 ppi.
In step 3, I crop only to get the child
then I import the resulting picture into say Microsoft Word and stretch the picture to be 3 x 5 it would seem to be that I would be way below the 72 ppi desired result.
What am I missing?
On opening a photograph in CS6, the image is incomplete.
I have just installed Photoshop CS6 (hope I'm not going to live to regret this), apart from the problems with installing plugins, when I open a file the image is incomplete with anything up to 25% of the image missing. If I create a duplicate background copy the problem is resolved. This is not satisfactory on software of this nature.
I recently bought Photoshop 12, having previously had Photoshop 9. With Photoshop 9 I could resize a photograph to 60mm by 40mm (say) and insert it into a text in Windows 7 at exactly that size and textwrap it. When I try to do this using Photoshop 12, the image fills the A4 page, even though it confirms that the resized photograph is 60mm by 40mm. What am I doing wrong?
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