Photoshop :: Screen Printing A Gradient
Nov 6, 2008What is the best way to screen print a gradient.
The shirt is 2 colours. Orange and red.
Would you print the whole orange and then do the red separation as a half tone?
What is the best way to screen print a gradient.
The shirt is 2 colours. Orange and red.
Would you print the whole orange and then do the red separation as a half tone?
I am making an image to be screen printed. In the background theres a moon in a very dark sky. The moon is going to be white, with a greenish gradient glow (circle shaped) around it, fading into darkness in the rest of the sky. I have the gradient ready but I can't figure out what to do about making it a half tone so I can screen print it.
I suppose the specifics of my image aren't crucial. What I need to know is how to make a coloured half tone where it's essentially two colours on two separate layers that blend into each other. Should it be two half tone layers? Or is it better to have ONE of the two colours a half tone, while the other sits below and together they create the illusion of blending?
I'm using A Mac OS 10.6.8, and Illustrator CS5. I do garment screen printing. In my designs I use a gradient, which needs to have the halftone dots controlled, and a certain size, to expose properly on my screens to then print. I can't seem to figure out how to adjust the frequency or LPI, and the angle so that they work. It still prints out as a seen on screen
View 12 Replies View RelatedI've been surfing the internet for a screen printing press, and I am not looking to spend a ton a cash on it. All I want to do is make screen prints of B/W photographs, and print them onto canvas. I understand the basic concept of screen printing, but I just want to make sure this one from Dick Blick will do the trick..It's just a one color print press.
View 2 Replies View RelatedWhen printing a vector illustration in PDF format, my gradients that fade to 0% over a surface aren't coming out right. The gradient appears like a box with a hard edge, rather than fading away. It looks like this when viewing the file , but when printed I am getting this . (don't mind the color, it is a bad quality photo)
I am using an HP z5200 postscript printer.
I am printing to my Epson 4880 for screen printing film. I have recently upgraded to CS6 on Windows 7. I can choose the separations option in the print window and edit the dot frequency and angle options.
When the film is printed, the graphics are printed as grayscale NOT dot pattern. This will not work when exposing screens. There is nothing new that I am doing so I must have some settings overlooked.
I have been printing with an epson [artisan 50] for a long time, always great colors on my pc.
just switched to a mac and latest version of ps cs6 and my prints are not color correct [very muted colors on the print] It is definitely not the printer [prints perfect from otherc applications]
I have tried many of the settings / color management options, but none seem to do the job. Right now I have it set on 'photoshop manages color' and then for printer profile my printer type with correct paper.
I don't know what to do- share their knowledge on color management/printing
Well I'm trying to convert an image into seperate layers with each individual color on it, in this case grey/white/red/black, and I cant seem to figure out how to do it...
I need to have each color on a seperate layer so I can screen print the image...does anyone have any ideas?
I can't get text in Photoshop CS to look right. It usually looks good on screen unless I zoom in. Since I think these are vectors I would think it would always look good no matter what the zoom level. I am trying to print my company name in Times NR 24 point. My printer driver is postscript. Part of my company name is LANTEC so I did a quick test and tried to print that one word in TNR 24 point and it looks terrible. Zooming in on the text also looks terrible (by the way I have it set to sharp and I have also tried smooth). This is driving me crazy. I have also looked at the print driver which is set to print graphics in 600 X 600 dpi.
I did a quick search and only found one document that is close to this problem. It said something about 200 dpi and 72 dpi. What settings are these reffering too?
I am using Illustrator CS3 and 5 and i am in screen printing business, I would like to able to print each screen separations with gradient pattern (dots) to pdf file so i can send it to my printer and the only thing he has to do print the films without worrying about the dot % for the images that have a gradient pattern.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am able to print the document without the gradient/fountain fill. I have been trying to print an image with gradient/fountain fill and the gradient image will not print...
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am trying to print a white under base film for my image to screen print on a dark shirt. I read it is best to choke the image so it is a little smaller and the white does not peep through once the color is placed on top. Is there an easy way to create this base image? I am having a hard time copying or duplicating and making it smaller.
View 9 Replies View RelatedActual printing size on the screen,
I’m wondering if there is a tool on the Revit that enables displaying the actual printing size on the screen. This feature is quite useful as we can see exactly how the drawing will precisely looks like on the paper.
For example, if I need to print with a scale of 1:200, then is there a tool that displays the actual size on the screen. Other software, like ArcGIS, has this feature.
Software: AutoCAD 2014, AutoCAD C3D, AutoCAD M3D, Revit
Windows 7 (Ultimate 64 bits),
Firefox 20.0,
Kaspersky 2013.
I have a drawing and I have to show the critical points printing the coordinates in the screen:
Is there a way that AutoCAD create text with the coordinates that I can capture with any (ID for example) command?
I have a drawing with a screen and behind it is an xref drawing. When I print it to our KIP plotter the lines and other items behind the screen do not plot.
Here is how it is setup and what I have tried
The Xref itself is on its own layer and all the layers of the xref are set to a color that has thickness of .0138 and a 35% screen.
The hatch resides in the active drawing and is set to a color that is also .0138 thick but at a 20% screen.
The hatch is a DOT hatch at scale 1, but I have also tried it as a solid hatch
Lines merge is on and needs to be on.
I have made sure that the hatch is sent to the back and that there is no overlapping of data from other sources liek a second hatch or the same data in another xref etc.
I also tried setting the xref layers to another color that is .0256 thick with a 35% screen, but the results where the same. If i change the xref layers to a .0138 thick color with 100% screen, they do print over the hatch then.
I'm relatively new to Illustrator (I'm a fine artist not a graphics professional) and having some difficulty with preparing pdf files for screen printing positives.I passed some of my photos through Vector Magic anf got a 3 color vector pdf.I converted the colors to global spot cmyk.What I need to do is get each color onto a separate layer. I don't have a postscript printer and would like to have everything prepared before I take artwork to a print shop to get screen positives printed.For some reason when I go Select > Same > Fill color (and either cut to a new layer or select inverse and delete on a duplicated layer) I'm not getting everything showing up. It looks like the document needs to be flattened or something, though I have tried that with no effect.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am unable to save .pdf versions of color separations. I followed the tutorials (changed all colors to cmyk or spot colors, selected the printer adobe post script, changed the output to Separations (host-based), desected the colors I didn't want on the separations), but something goes wrong when I save. When I click save, I am given no option to save the separation as a .pdf. The program seems to be unable to save the separation as any sort of readable file. In the drop down box where it should provide a .pdf option, it merely says "All Files." If I save my separation using this option, then Illustrator creates a file unreadable by Acrobat Reader.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI'm receiving PDF files for screen printing. How do I convert to Corel Draw in order to print?
View 12 Replies View RelatedWell as much as I do design work for customers for tee shirts,I never had to do color separation, for the screens.I’m wondering how do you do this? ( how do you separate colors in corel, for screen printing) .
View 4 Replies View RelatedI am new to Corel PaintShop Pro X4, and am attempting to enter text into a template I found online. I was successful in entering the text, and when I try to print, the print preview shows a template full of text. However, when the page prints, only some of the text is there! The text that prints doesn't even seem to correspond with the layers. I tried to save the file as another type of image to print it (all text shows then with no problem), but it is not a very sharp image. I have searched the manual, but am not finding an answer. This is time sensitive
View 2 Replies View RelatedI run an online wedding invitation design business. I first create the digital files of the invitations in Adobe Illustrator CS5, then secondly I email the PDF file to my customers, and finally the customers are responsible for printing the invitations themselves. Some people print from a home computer, some have a local print shop print them (professional OR places like Staples and Office Max), and some upload the design to an online print service.
I use Adobe Illustrator CS5 and cmyk colors to create my file.
2 times this year I have run across a problem that I don't know how to fix. The customer says that when they print the PDF at home AND at a local print shop (Staples or otherwise), the colors are not right. Specifically, my Peach color was printing Brown for her, and my light Pink color was printing Tan for her.
The first file I sent her was a PDF that I created from Illustrator. I also imported the .ai file into my Photoshop Elements 5.0, and then saved it as a JPG and PSD. Those two printed the same results for her. She printed from home and from Staples. Both printed wrong.
I have made 250+ sales in the last 12 months, and this is only the second time it has happened.
(I use Macromedia Freehand MX), I just recently download the trial illustrator, and my question is to know how to open points in Illustrator images for screen printing in freehand using the Halftone in Illustrator I've tried but is not the same as the finish is different and of very poor quality here is a sample as freehand and illustrator as stated in:
Look at the difference of points:
As you can see in Illustrator can only do that from the menu: Effects / Pixelate / Color Halftone... , not sharp as seen in the picture above and therefore the image does not get to see very well, while in freehand if you can manipulate the points from large fine to a point, points also can be made round, linear or ellipse and therefore may work better for screenprints and other designs that open nesecitan points at home. What I'm interested to know if there is another way to work so that the image is sharp with the open items as well as in freehand.
How can I create a halftone for screen printing on textiles. I need to have vectored dots.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI am trying to print film for screen printing using an epson 1100 workforce. I am not able to select the 'advance setting' box under the separations tab when I try to print separations. I am trying to be able to choose the dot
View 1 Replies View RelatedOur general manager strongly worries about data security after reading this news. [URL] ..... How we can forbid staff from Saving files into external drives, Printing specific files, Printing screen? We are also in finance field and we are not going to pay for penalty charge due to data loss.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI was wondering if I need to "trap" all 3 layers of color in this design which will be screen-printed as a 16x20 sized poster. In some parts of the design, I purposely made the colors a bit offset. But the printer says I must use trapping. I watched a bunch of video tutorials, but none of them seem applicable to this particular kind of artwork, in which I WANT some of the background/paper to show through. But not everywhere. I work in Illustrator CS6.
View 4 Replies View RelatedFor my business card design I have white text overlapping an area of very white grey- causing readability issues (insufficient contrast). It looks great apart from this one problem, so I still want to keep my white text and light background and fix it by separating the text and background with a darker drop shadow..
First, I added a black drop shadow to the text- but this was not enough to increase readability (text still looked faded on background as drop shadow was too subtle at 85% opacity, 0.04" blur) so I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow (100% opacity, 0.02" blur + 18% opacity, 0.02" blur). This produced a heavier drop shadow effect for my text as desired but, for some reason, the text came out slightly grey in print (offset run). It seems the drop shadow somehow got printed over the text itself to some extent- turning the white text somewhat grey (and so not looking as clean as intended).
How could this dropshadow bleed into the text happen? Is it to do with the fact I added a drop shadow to my drop shadow? I would have thought that, even then, the text should entirely overlap all of the drop shadow as the text is the top layer in the group.
What can I do to ensure that drop shadow does not print over text in any way in future? Do I have to stick to only one layer of dropshadow-or is there something else I'm missing?
Is it possible to create a gradient similar to radial gradient, except that the shape is other than circular? This image would be the starting point, but I would like the white part fading to black to be another shape (say, a rectangle, a banana, etc.).
View 5 Replies View RelatedI've been experiencing problems with the Gradient editor since I got PS and the problem is that whenever I create a gradient through the gradient editor and then load it, it does load it and instead just duplicates the ones that already exist.
I save all gradients at:
C:UsersRHAppDataRoamingAdobeAdobe Photoshop CS6PresetsGradients
However it does (mostly) work when I import pre-made (from web) Gradients.
I don't know why this happens but it also did the same thing when I had CS5.5!
I'm here with 2013 SP2 64 bit Build 200 and two screens. Left screen is graphics area, Browser is on the left of right screen. Graphics is ATI Fire Pro V7800 with driver 9.3.3.3000.
In video (zipped MP4) you see a cutout of both screens, think of screens changing at the left of the browser.
Now, in many cases, after doing an operation, the browser is jumping back to the middle of my graphics in the left screen.
i have an image that is 28' wide by 60' high. i have to tile print it, but i have to print it out on film (see thru acetate). it has to be able to print at 1400 dpi. i know how to print at 1400 dpi on adobe photoshop, but i dont know how to tile print on that program. i have the image now in illusrtator, because it lets me tile, but i cant get it to print out for film (1400 dpi). im using a epson 1280 printer.
i really need to be able to tile print this in high resolution on film. anyone know what i can do??