properly resizing a color logo. I opened the logo in photoshop 1200dpi by 800dpi I need to resize it to 300dpi. When I do it loses its crispness, the diagonal edges show significant aliasing. I need the curves and edges to remain crisp.
View 5 RepliesI need to be able to re-size images that are large than 1MB in order to put them on our MLS site.
My previous computer had 2 arrow icons on the desktop.
One was for re-sizing horizontal pics and the other for re-sizing vertical pics.
I could simply drag/drop the image file onto these re-sizing icons and they would be re-sized.
The smaller file size thumbnail would appear on the desktop.
How can I get these re-sizing tools on my new computer's desktop?
I am using CS6.
I have Photoshop CS5, and everytime I try to make a gif I can't get the proper frame from the video...I keep getting the same one over and over again...
View 1 Replies View RelatedRunning Vista and CS3. I have downloaded a logo from a client that is a blue rectangle with reversed out type in the middle. The image is a JPEG but at full size looks fine displayed in Photoshop CS3 and is showing a ppi as a little over 300. And yet when I file>place the image into InDesign the type comes out completely pixelated to the point of not even being readable. I've tried saving it as a PSD and TIF but they all still show the same pixeled type. It seems like I'm missing something simple but I'm at a loss. Can anybody suggest what would cause this?
View 4 Replies View RelatedHi, I'm trying to merge photos that I shot for HDR from Bridge. When I select a few photos and use the command 'Tools/Photoshop/Merge to HDR/', the images open up in the dialog OK but the exposures it is 'guessing' are all wrong. It is selecting my underexposed shot as the 'EV 0', with my properly exposed and over exposed shots listing as 'EV +1.64' and 'EV -4' respectively. This is all wrong.
- Is there a way to change what Photoshop selects as the exposures?
I tried moving them, all sorts of click combinations, etc. It appears that they are stuck. When I shoot, it is -2EV, 0EV, +2EV.
Now interestingly, when I first open the photos in Photshop, then launch the 'Merge to HDR' dialog, adding the open files, it picks up the exposure just fine. This is just adding a few more steps to the workflow.
My designer wants a retainer of $3,000 but I can do most of my own stuff in Photoshop. Sometimes I get stumped though, and just need a 30 second tutorial. So I am coming here.Â
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how to change it from a square image to one with a rounded top and bottom-right corner.  Also a 2 pixel shadow going up the right side and along the bottom. I can manually draw in those two pixels easily enough. But the corners look terrible when I try to manually do it.
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I have been cropping the new image to the proper size, and then drawing in the two pixel fade on the side and bottom. Then trying to pixel by pixel create the rounded edges.
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Before you say "Its a drop shadow!" please remember, in order for me to copy that exact drop shadow, I would need to know all their settings, colors, pixel widths, etc. All I have is a flat, finished image, so I have none of that information. Plus, I don't know how to do a drop shadow on a curved corner, which deletes the original squared corner on the image.Â
I wanted to do a photoshop painting and then possibly have it printed as a set of giclee prints to give away for Christmas. The size of the print would probably be like 12 x 14.
It's been a long time since I did print work, can I still assume that if I set my PS document to 12 x 14 @ 300 dpi that I'll be able to get a quality print? Or do I need to go more - or can I go less?
I have a full and functioning version of Photoshop 6 extended on my MacBook Pro with mountain lion 10.8.3. I installed a new hybrid hard drive a few days ago. I had backed up my computer to an external hard drive via Super Duper. I recopied to the new hard drive and everything seemed to be working properly. My problem is I have a new configurator panel from a third party that I am trying to install and the extension manager that comes with the downloaded file won't install it on a copy of Photoshop 6 that's on my operating hard drive. I can make changes to Photoshop 6 on the backup drive. Somehow it seems that signals a been crossed. There are some folders in the application support folder that I transferred from the backup drive to the laptop drive but that didn't work either. Do I need to uninstall and reinstall Photoshop 6?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have downloaded CS6 on two computers Running 10.7.5. I have been operating on CS5 with no problems.Running CS 6 when I open a nef and try to save as it shows png as the save as if I try and change it a jpg it shows as.iff. When I open a tiff and try to do a save as the, format is empty when I click and set as psd it will do the psd. If I try and save as jpg it changes to a .ff file
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This is the same thing on both machines.I did try to run pixel bender but it does not operate on cs6. I had akvis lightshop as a plugin but I Got these messages and I Removed it.I still have the stand alone akvis but not the plugin.
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I have downloaded the New upgraded Nik software on cs6 on both machines I tried to put a screen shot but this will not accept it [URL]...
I downloaded some trial plugins and then removed them and ever since, CS5 is not working well. Sometimes when I open it and go to file open to open an image, everything is grayed out and I have to close down and re-launch. When I open an image and want to look at the file info, everything freezes and I have to use task manager to close down Photoshop.
As well, my bridge is not working correctly. I want to uninstall and then reinstall, but I thought that somewhere that I read there are specific ways to do that or else the program thinks you're trying to load it on another computer..?
I understand that backuping my catalog will save all my adjustments in Lightroom. However, I jump over to edit externally in Photoshop often. I understand that to create a Tiff file next to my original file. However, isn't just backing up the catalog missing the Tiff file now in the backup?
View 2 Replies View RelatedIllustrator has a user section. Photoshop CS5 will display your custom brushes in the preset manager.
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I use a Mac OSX 10.8. When I download brushes and install them in the User/Application Support/PS/Presets/Brushes they will appear in the preset manager without having to 'load' brushes each time. Yet, when you make a new preset and save the .abr file you can not save them to the proper location since Lion has the library folder hidden by default.
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For instance, when downloading brushes, it's easier to combined multiple sets into one presets. I don't want 20 different smoke abr files. Yet, I can't save them to Application Support.
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No one has a clear understanding of how this works (at least not on the internet.) The best thread (from Adobe forums) I found from 2011 stated I should do the above steps, but then a few other users reported thats out of fashion.
Can I obtain a proper image from a scanned B&W negative?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm currently having a debate within my drafting dept. as to which string of dims is more correct..
View 9 Replies View Related What is the proper way of creating a block?
I did 19 drawings, created blocks using the CREATE button, at first I could Insert them into any other drawing. But I saw this definition in a book,
Creates a block from separate entities (internal to current drawing), does this mean that a user on another computer cannot use my block unless he has the original drawing?
My boss told me that he uses WBLOCK instead, which writes to an external file.
I'm asking because out of the 19 drawings, 9-10 of them have the error "block referencing itself". I guess this is probably me naming the blocks the same as my file names.
So before I go any further, what is the proper way to create a block that can be used? I also shared my CAD folder on the network.
I cannot print in proper orientation. I have Rotate to Fit turned on in the print module. I tried both orientations under Page Setup. Doesn't even work in Photoshop. Not all photos, just this one. Very frustrating.
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I have Auto Rotate turned on in my Canon 7D. I was shooting nearly straight up for this image. But, it's a horizontal image, not vertical.
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Also, I exported the original to a TIFF file, from Lightroom, and opened in Photoshop. Doesn't matter. Same problem. Is it the photo information or Lightroom or the way it was imported?
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Perhaps it was captured as a vertical instead of a horizontal. I think I rotated it in the Develop module. What does any of this matter anyway? Shouldn't I be able to print what I see on the screen?
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Lightroom 4.1
MAC OS 10.6.8
I have a multi-page document with different topics, photos, graphs, etc. I've set up multiple text boxes for each topic and placed photos in their own containers.
I need to add about a half page of content to the 2nd page of the document. However... you can't just "press enter" like you would in Word and have everything move down. Do I have to actually move it all manually myself? It makes it even more difficult by the fact I only have half a page of content to insert, so everything that follows will also need to be separated to maintain consistency.
It wouldn't be much of a big deal if I was inserting an entire page of content because I could just insert a page then.
I am using AutCAD LT 2012 and I cannot figure out how to convert my drawings to EPS while maintaining the scale of the dwg. When my artists import them in Adobe, they show up as an 8.5" x 11" sheet. How to change the properties.
View 7 Replies View Relatedwhat is the proper way to scale a drawing? The Lines that i have should be 3' ,not 3"
What is the correct way on to scale the drawing to the proper units?
I'm having problems plotting to PDF's and maintaining the line weights etc.. that I get when I print to my plotter. It seems like Adobe Acrobat Pro 9 converts based on the color of my pens.... the lighter color value i.e. yellow, the lighter the grey tone. white is darkest. It ignores my lineweight settings, so I have no control on the quality of the output. Is it possible to get it to use the .ctb files that my plotter uses when creating it's PDF? I'm using AutoCAD LT 2010.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI would like to know what is the proper way to modify images for a website, for example for a wordpress featured image or for placing it anywhere in a post.
Should I scale the image to some pixels in width and height? Should I resize it? I am a bit lost with these issues.
I’m a student in a land surveying program using AutoCAD Civil 3D 2012. When I try to plot my DWG to a PDF my line weights are not plotting accordingly to the layers. For instance, Layer 1 is set at 0.7mm line weight, Layer 2 is set at 0.3mm but when it plots to PDF they all look similar. I have double checked the options on the plotting screen and I can get the line weights to plot correctly on different drawings with similar settings. I’m wondering if the issue has something to do with the fact that the particular lines that are not plotting accordingly are parcel segments.
View 9 Replies View RelatedQuick question on driver updates. Do I still need to update the "Graphics Databases" XML files when I update the graphics drivers on an Inventor and/or AutoCAD 2013 or 2014 workstation? If so, where can I find the latest versions of the XML files?
It used to be easy to get the databases, they where provided with the drivers on the Autodesk Certified Hardware website. Now, I can't find them anywhere.
I’ve installed Revit 2014, but mainly using 2013. When I installed 2014, the button on the 2013 ribbon started acting funny.
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When I select an element, a wall for instance, I don’t get the proper buttons under the MODIFY tab showing up. I have to hit the show/hide button on the drop-down menu that controls the visibility of the ribbon & buttons to get the EDIT PROFILE button.
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And it doesn't end there; when I get into EDIT PROFILE mode, the proper buttons are not showing up again. Again, I have to do a show/hide with the drop down menu, and then the proper buttons show up and I can edit the wall.
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If I then select another element, such as a roof, I have to go through the same two-extra-step process to edit the roof.
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I just re-installed 2013 yesterday because I’ve been having issues with 2013 crashing on a daily basis, and then not opening at all. Yet the same problem still happens. I un-installed 2014, and the problem still happens. After I un-installed 2014, I did a repair on 2013, and the problem still persists.
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I spoke to my Tech Support, CAD-1, this morning and they told me it’s possibly an issue with 2014 over writing some .NETFRAMEWORK files for 2013 (or something like that). They saw the problem on my system but couldn’t resolve the issue.
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I’ve called Autodesk Tech Support, and of course the made a ticket and “will get back to me.” (I’ve not had much luck w/ Autodesk Tech Support in the past, and have a bad taste in my mouth because of it)
What is the proper way to copy a project to a new folder and the projects not be linked in any way to each other. In other words I want to have a completely independent project that I can make minor changes to without it affecting the original project in any way because no matter what copy method or pack-n-go I have tried, the link is still there from the new project to the original. How do i break that link.Â
AutoCAD 2013
Inventor 2013
Windows Pro 7 x64
Asus Sabertooth X58
Intel Core i7 960 @ 3.2 GHz
24 GB ram
Relating the .NET Developers Guide at [URL]...... regarding "Commit and Rollback Changes":
In the event that objects have been added or changes have been made (that you want to keep) it's obviously a requirement that you commit the transaction. But when simply reading information is it necessary (or even good form) to commit the transaction anyway or abort for some reason?
The Developers Guide says "If Commit is not called before Dispose is called, all changes made within the transaction are rolled back." and does not imply that committing is necessary.
Getting the proper text size in model space.
If single or multi-line text is set at a particular size, notes or dimension text for one object (like a fabrication detail) could be legible, where as text for a much larger object (like a floor plan) could be hard to read.
Is there a way to compensate for this? Or is it a matter of manually adjusting text size for every drawing component? So far, I have found the easiest way is through the Quick Properties feature.
I was just wondering if there is a proper or standardized format to the layer names you should use or if i should just use what works best to discribe what im drawing on the layer?
ive gotten bunch of drawings from engineers lately and they have all had differnt names for the layers
PDN is an amazing tool. The issue I'm having is that when I try to create a partially transparent texture for use in Unity 3D, I get a gray border inside of Unity that is not visible in Paint.net. It appears to be a well-known issue, and there are lots of instructions, video tutorials, etc. for how to deal with the problem when using Photoshop.
See the following post for more information: [URL] .....
The basic theme of the solution is that you need to create a "proper" alpha channel and not rely on the "checkered background" that exists in Photoshop. Is it possible to achieve the same thing with Paint.net?
How to separate layers on an image prior to printing?
View 2 Replies View RelatedI am currently trying to update OS from XP to 7. In the past (XP) I was able to put my code just about any place in the Program directory. Win 7 on the other hand is giving me all kinds of write errors.
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