I would like to know what is the proper way to modify images for a website, for example for a wordpress featured image or for placing it anywhere in a post.
Should I scale the image to some pixels in width and height? Should I resize it? I am a bit lost with these issues.
I have Photoshop Elements 11. I designed a book cover with Microsoft Word 2010 and saved the file as a Pdf. I want to upload an image of this book cover to various web sites that require a Jpeg image and the book cover has to cover at least 85% of the image and require a pure white back ground. Pixel size can be 1,000 or more. I did go to the library to get reference books but, I can't ascertain from these books how to do this. I am a beginner to Photoshop and realize I will have to get training for future projects. I wanted to upload an image from my computer to show you the book cover but there was a dialogue box that appeared saying the file was too large to upload. The book cover I designed is 8.5' x 11.0"
View 3 Replies View RelatedIf it is possible to create proper dimensions for 3D isometric drafting views? In AutoCAD I could set an oblique angle for a dimension but in Revit there is no setting. I can only dimension 3D model views.
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See attached PDF for example.
When I try to create a document, Gimp finds my web cam, but not the twain driver. The scanner is a perfection 636U. When I click on "create>scanner/camera", it gives me a Twain.exe system error - error message that reads:
"The program can't start because PMDD32F3.dll is missing from your computer. Try reinstalling the program to fix this problem."
Some more info that might be useful:
If I go into epsonscan directly, it finds the scanner and scans just fine. I can export the image and open in Gimp just fine.
The laptop is a win7 machine. There are no Win7 drivers for the scanner. I am using some Win2000 drivers that I used to use in XP with no issue.
The PMDD32F3.dll file is in the Windows>System32 file
I'm at a loss on why epsonscan works itself perfectly, but not in Gimp like it does on my XP machine.
I'm trying to create a series of sphere images that are to be used as an animation, whereas in my case I have a transparent background layer and a layer containing a sphere. Then I want to add a 15 degree rotation for each new image. The problem is that every time I select the rotate tool and click on the image to enter the value, the sphere is moved slightly.
View 3 Replies View RelatedWhat I'm trying to do is create images (PNG) that are populated with text values and images from a database. Something I could best describe as being like a mail merge. Can I write a Gimp script to do this? Let me give you some examples that demonstrate of what I want to do:
1 - Create randomly generated Lolcat images where I pull random cat images from a database and random funny text imposed in a layer on top of the cat image
2 - Create address labels where I pull names and address from a database and impose them on top of an image of the state I'm shipping it to.
3 - Create iconography for an e-commerce website that pulls from the product catalog to display the image with text of the category, product name, and size on top if it.
I am trying to create 48"x60" banners with text and high res images. Basically I am exporting a large 48"x60" .odt (open office) file as a PDF at 300dpi so I can then import it in to GIMP. When I try to import the pdf at 14400 (width), 18000 (height), & 30o resolution I get the following:
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GIMP Message
Plug-in crashed: "file-pdf.exe"
(C:Program Files (x86)GIMP-2.0libgimp2.0plug-insfile-pdf.exe)
The dying plug-in may have messed up GIMP's internal state. You may want to save your images and restart GIMP to be on the safe side.
Gimp Message Opening 'C:UsersDUSTINDesktopWORKLR2 NO IMAGES.pdf' failed:
Procedure 'file-pdf-load' returned no return values
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The printing company is requesting my file be at 300dpi so that is why I am trying to import at 300 resolution. I am guessing this is a bug. My question is can I somehow just open the .odt file in gimp and add my high resolution images to it there? Is there a plug in for .odt in GIMP?
I have Photoshop 7.0 and my friend says that all these cool site are made with photoshop.
How is that possible?
how to build websites in photoshop?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI have created many images for my new website and they all look crisp and clean in .psd format but when i save them to .gif they become slightly jagged around the edges which are not straight.
I have tried .png format but this has a mask over the image when viewed on the site. Also .jpg images are to big for websites i thought?
What is the best image format and if it is .gif which i have been previously informed to use how do i stop the rounded edges from becoming jagged?
provide an example of a website that utilises a dark underground/chilling atmosphere to it.
I am looking to produce a website that incorporates something similar,
My photos look great in CS6 but once I save them and upload them to a website like Facebook, Shutterfly, my personal website or anywhere really, they end up looking washed out and faded. What do I need to change?
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RGB is set to: Adobe RGB (1998) CMYK, Gray & Spot are all in their default settings.Â
I'm starting my course at University in September and they have issued all the students with a summer project which is to design a T-Shirt. That's great and I can't wait to get cracking, but I want to print my design onto the T-Shirt using transfer paper.
The problem is my printers quality won't develop an effective result and it's too small for what I'm printing, so I would like to know if there are any websites I can use to upload my images to and choose what kind of material it could be printed on (transfer paper in this case) and choose the specific size of the material (e.g. A1-A4 etc).
I'm using VSP X4 to make some short slideshows to be embedded in websites. I have been successful in creating them and converting into a WMV movie for broadband, 320 x 240 for fast loading on the website page.
All works well in terms of the slideshow presenting on the site page, but no matter how I size the container, or change the object code when converting, the slideshow always has a black bar at the top and the bottom of the slideshow. I've changed aspect ratios with no success in removing these black bars. I use CSS to create the container for the slideshow, and the container is coded for a white background, yet, the slideshow continues to have these black bars at the top and bottom. how I can remove these, assuming it's VSP4 that's creating them?
I am relatively new to Lightroom 4 and have had some issues with uploading files to a website that I have already exported from lightroom. I have exported many photos from lightroom to my desktop and then brought them into iphoto. I then went to upload some of those photos, now in iphoto to websites like snapfish, etc. to develop prints or make cards. When I upload these photos to the website, they often look poor in comparison when I look at the same image in iphoto.I then emailed myself the same photo and renamed the image. The photo then uploads true to what it looks like in iphoto. Am I not exporting these images correctly?Â
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am making it for my clan for UT2004. Whats a eneral rule of thumb for quailty vs size of file? Not all of us have 100kbs+ connections, so I have to set a limit I guess for you 56ker. So... please take a look at what the site involves.
I currently have the quailty set to MAX. (Note: that im not done editing the interface... gotta edit the WELCOME and MENU lables so they match the big banner on top.) Also.... I just can't figure this out... take a look really closly at the bottom banner and the image under the iframes text and under the navagation.
It doesnt look right does it? The color isnt 100% gray... it seems to trail off to a darker grey or black... yet when I open it in Photoshop it shows that its all gray. Why does it do that and how can I fix it? Also: I dont have the photoshop file for the the MENU and WELCOME image... So how can I recreate the rounded off rectangle? So it has that shadow like appearace?
But I wouldn't be able to upload a hundred tiny, plain images. I made this to add onto the background removal FAQ. I hope it's accepted.
[URL].......
(Image is clickable.)
A few photos from my digital camera that I cannot re-take, the pictures are blurry, how would I go about correcting the blurry photographs using gimp?
View 5 Replies View Relatedproperly resizing a color logo. I opened the logo in photoshop 1200dpi by 800dpi I need to resize it to 300dpi. When I do it loses its crispness, the diagonal edges show significant aliasing. I need the curves and edges to remain crisp.
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have Photoshop CS5, and everytime I try to make a gif I can't get the proper frame from the video...I keep getting the same one over and over again...
View 1 Replies View RelatedRunning Vista and CS3. I have downloaded a logo from a client that is a blue rectangle with reversed out type in the middle. The image is a JPEG but at full size looks fine displayed in Photoshop CS3 and is showing a ppi as a little over 300. And yet when I file>place the image into InDesign the type comes out completely pixelated to the point of not even being readable. I've tried saving it as a PSD and TIF but they all still show the same pixeled type. It seems like I'm missing something simple but I'm at a loss. Can anybody suggest what would cause this?
View 4 Replies View RelatedHi, I'm trying to merge photos that I shot for HDR from Bridge. When I select a few photos and use the command 'Tools/Photoshop/Merge to HDR/', the images open up in the dialog OK but the exposures it is 'guessing' are all wrong. It is selecting my underexposed shot as the 'EV 0', with my properly exposed and over exposed shots listing as 'EV +1.64' and 'EV -4' respectively. This is all wrong.
- Is there a way to change what Photoshop selects as the exposures?
I tried moving them, all sorts of click combinations, etc. It appears that they are stuck. When I shoot, it is -2EV, 0EV, +2EV.
Now interestingly, when I first open the photos in Photshop, then launch the 'Merge to HDR' dialog, adding the open files, it picks up the exposure just fine. This is just adding a few more steps to the workflow.
I'm currently having a debate within my drafting dept. as to which string of dims is more correct..
View 9 Replies View Related What is the proper way of creating a block?
I did 19 drawings, created blocks using the CREATE button, at first I could Insert them into any other drawing. But I saw this definition in a book,
Creates a block from separate entities (internal to current drawing), does this mean that a user on another computer cannot use my block unless he has the original drawing?
My boss told me that he uses WBLOCK instead, which writes to an external file.
I'm asking because out of the 19 drawings, 9-10 of them have the error "block referencing itself". I guess this is probably me naming the blocks the same as my file names.
So before I go any further, what is the proper way to create a block that can be used? I also shared my CAD folder on the network.
I cannot print in proper orientation. I have Rotate to Fit turned on in the print module. I tried both orientations under Page Setup. Doesn't even work in Photoshop. Not all photos, just this one. Very frustrating.
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I have Auto Rotate turned on in my Canon 7D. I was shooting nearly straight up for this image. But, it's a horizontal image, not vertical.
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Also, I exported the original to a TIFF file, from Lightroom, and opened in Photoshop. Doesn't matter. Same problem. Is it the photo information or Lightroom or the way it was imported?
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Perhaps it was captured as a vertical instead of a horizontal. I think I rotated it in the Develop module. What does any of this matter anyway? Shouldn't I be able to print what I see on the screen?
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Lightroom 4.1
MAC OS 10.6.8
I have a multi-page document with different topics, photos, graphs, etc. I've set up multiple text boxes for each topic and placed photos in their own containers.
I need to add about a half page of content to the 2nd page of the document. However... you can't just "press enter" like you would in Word and have everything move down. Do I have to actually move it all manually myself? It makes it even more difficult by the fact I only have half a page of content to insert, so everything that follows will also need to be separated to maintain consistency.
It wouldn't be much of a big deal if I was inserting an entire page of content because I could just insert a page then.
My designer wants a retainer of $3,000 but I can do most of my own stuff in Photoshop. Sometimes I get stumped though, and just need a 30 second tutorial. So I am coming here.Â
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how to change it from a square image to one with a rounded top and bottom-right corner.  Also a 2 pixel shadow going up the right side and along the bottom. I can manually draw in those two pixels easily enough. But the corners look terrible when I try to manually do it.
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I have been cropping the new image to the proper size, and then drawing in the two pixel fade on the side and bottom. Then trying to pixel by pixel create the rounded edges.
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Before you say "Its a drop shadow!" please remember, in order for me to copy that exact drop shadow, I would need to know all their settings, colors, pixel widths, etc. All I have is a flat, finished image, so I have none of that information. Plus, I don't know how to do a drop shadow on a curved corner, which deletes the original squared corner on the image.Â
I am using AutCAD LT 2012 and I cannot figure out how to convert my drawings to EPS while maintaining the scale of the dwg. When my artists import them in Adobe, they show up as an 8.5" x 11" sheet. How to change the properties.
View 7 Replies View RelatedI wanted to do a photoshop painting and then possibly have it printed as a set of giclee prints to give away for Christmas. The size of the print would probably be like 12 x 14.
It's been a long time since I did print work, can I still assume that if I set my PS document to 12 x 14 @ 300 dpi that I'll be able to get a quality print? Or do I need to go more - or can I go less?
what is the proper way to scale a drawing? The Lines that i have should be 3' ,not 3"
What is the correct way on to scale the drawing to the proper units?
I'm having problems plotting to PDF's and maintaining the line weights etc.. that I get when I print to my plotter. It seems like Adobe Acrobat Pro 9 converts based on the color of my pens.... the lighter color value i.e. yellow, the lighter the grey tone. white is darkest. It ignores my lineweight settings, so I have no control on the quality of the output. Is it possible to get it to use the .ctb files that my plotter uses when creating it's PDF? I'm using AutoCAD LT 2010.
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