I get great results with CS4, and Epson R2880 and calibrated monitor and paper profiles: prints just like the monitor only a little darker but I can handle that. "Upgrading" to CS6 with everything else unchanged and the prints have a muddy green cast. Currantly the "solution" is to manipulate in CS6 and print from CS4.
View 5 RepliesAdobe Colour Management Print defaults seems to be assigning RGB meta to B&W pages and incurring Colour Print charges for B&W prints.I can manually change the print colour management to Printer managed on a per print basis instead of the default adobe colour managed which "cures" the issue but I do not seem to be able to save that setting as the default.
View 1 Replies View Relatedhow is best to remove the Colour Cast from this photo in Photoshop CS 5 or CS 6 Beta.
View 14 Replies View RelatedI printed a black and white scanned (gray scale) image on Saturday, no problems.
On Sunday I noticed a small hairline from the negative, cloned it out and reprinted. The image had acquired a distinct purple cast. All attempts ticking a variety of appropriate (and possibly inappropriate) boxes in PS and the printer options failed to remove the cast. Rescanning and the cast is still there. Printing on another printer (HP) and the cast is there, so I presume it's source is Photoshop (CS).
remove a green colour cast across areas of a picture caused by (very) out of focus bars/ cage mesh?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI have several lovely images with a partial green horizontal colour cast caused by very out of focus bars, (without cloning!)as shown here, across tigers head!
View 5 Replies View RelatedIs ther a specific adjustment for a global colour caste in LR4 ?
View 3 Replies View RelatedI seem to have done something to my version of Photoshop 6 (on XP). When I print directly from Photoshop, all prints have a strong yellow cast. If I print the same file from another program (such as Illustrator, etc.), it prints fine (so it's not a monitor calibration issue). Color mode is RGB, all the color settings are normal (Adobe RGB 1998).
I recently replaced my HP printer with a Canon MP810, and I still have the same problem with the new printer!
I've seen this question posted several times on the Web over the years (for Photoshop 6 or 7), but never an answer.
i have taken an picture from the internet,and from RGB i have converted it to CMYK the background is supposed to be black as well as the picture that fades into it. after i print the final image,i can see 2 variations of black on my image all though both blacks have same colour value.
View 13 Replies View RelatedHaving the age old colour mismatch from two printers problem. Is there a way in photoshop CS2 (or anything else) that I can print a colour swatch that also gives the individual RGB values?
My theory is that if I print the same swatch to the two different printers, I can manually match the colours by eye and adjust RGB values to suit.
I have an image in photoshop that is currently black and white, but I would like to print in a monochromatic green, as in just #00ff00 colour; so that it prints in green and white. How do I edit the image so that it prints like this?
View 14 Replies View RelatedColour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour
Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves
Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast
If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels
Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts)
Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation
Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image
Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK
Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
How can I print & preview with a colour profile in Photoshop Elemnets 11?
Only showing print in " File "
I have just started using paintnet and when i tried to print it will only print in blackand white even when the photo is colour. The print preview shows the image in B&W. How do i get to print in colour?
View 4 Replies View RelatedI've noticed with other people's drawings, that when i print them in Monochrome, the logo of the company stays in colour, i don't know how to do it.
View 9 Replies View RelatedCan i import an image (such as a photo of a plant) into autocad and print it in colour? I can currently print the image but without colour.
View 6 Replies View RelatedI recently started working on coreldraw x5, but i am having trouble saving a print style and getting the default colour management settings, i dont know if i missed something or did something wrong, but i dont even have those options on my program
View 1 Replies View RelatedI'm pretty new to preparing artwork for spot colour printing - it's a hoodie design in this case.
I created the artwork in CMYK originally, and have got some of the way towards converting into a 5 colour print job using Recolor Artwork, so I've got it down to 5 swatches.
However, the printer is asking for colours separated by layers, which makes sense - I think means knocking everything out so there is no overprinting - is this correct?
If so, what is the best approach to take, to avoid unnecessary work, to convert from the current artowrk, with a lot of overlapping artwork, to produce 5 layers each with vector artwork coloured with its own Pantone swatch?
Whenever I create a new colour in the colour swatches it only stays there for a couple of actions while working on a project. I understand from others that once they create a colour it stays there. Why can't I get that to happen?
View 1 Replies View RelatedI am using CS6 and the Replace Colour Tool no longer allows me to replace multiple colours when I select the + . So when I have the panel open and I highlight the +, I used to then be able to click on several spots in my image and all of the colours that are in those spots are added to the selected colours that will be changed by using the sliders.
But now, when I use the + it has exactly the same effect as not using it - I can only choose one colour or an other, I can't add.....I want to reset this to the original way that this works.
Currently I have to open the panel, change one variation of a colour, save it, then re-open the panel and do it again (and again and again) until all the colour variations I am trying to remove are are changed. I know I also have the 'fuzziness' slider, but it does not give enough control.
I am designing a T Shirt for my ski club.I have taken an image from a banner (made in illustrator, full colour image attached) and I want to devide into a 3 colour image for the t shirt (I am only allowed 3 colours for printing).The colours I want to use are black, white and purple. The colour of the t shirt is a light blue.I want to then put the purple logo on top of the white and black too.So I'm after a black and white grunge background with a punchy purple logo on the top.All of this should be on a tranparent or, for design purposes, light bue (same as T Shirt colour) background.
how to split a full colour image into using only 3 (4 including transparent/light blue background) exact colours.
If I were going to black and white I might convert to grey scale and then paint areas to fully white or fully black using an overlay brush I don't think this works for me for more than just black and white though.
I have attached two of my attempts where I used the colour range selection and level adjustments. Niether was really successful though (one does not use the right colours or number of colours but looks quite cool).
After upgrading PS CS6 to 13.0.1, HDR Pro now renders terrible colors. The reds seem to be missing and there is a pea-green cast to everything. The screen capture from LR shows two 32-bit images made from HDR Pro the one on the left was created 9/19/2012 on the right was created 10/27/2012 after having upgraded CS6 and LR4. The color space in Photoshop is Prophoto
View 26 Replies View RelatedI took some pictures inside a church recently and a few came out perfect, but the rest had an orangey coloured tint to them.
way of removing this, either in Elements or CS3
I will like to find out the colour code for the background colour on a particular web address. Unfortunately I am new here so not allowed to post links so will say this as creatively as possible. the address is theregentlagos (with the usual prefix beginning with w and suffix beginning with c for all websites). I am referring to the colour where the menu items like logo, home, brands etc are on.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI've been asked to convert an image to 2 colour for printing. I have the image as a full colour CMYK layout (with layers), but the whole thing needs to be converted to 2 colour. I have the pantone reference numbers for the 2 colours it is to be converted to. I am familiar with the hue/saturation tool, but this just seems to convert it to one colour, and you have no fine control over the exact colour you want.
View 3 Replies View RelatedI'm trying to add a color cast to a grey, contoured button shape (defined by a vector mask), by overlaying it with an adjustment layer with a solid green fill and setting the blend mode to "multiply."
The shape layer has transparent pixels around the perimeter, so I would not expect a "multiply" operation to result in visible green there. But it does. That's no good. I need to export this image to a PNG with the transparency intact.
I can see that the green adjustment layer has a "Color Fill 1 Mask" channel, but copying the shape layer and pasting it into that mask channel doesn't seem to work. The display shows a very thin outline of the vector shape, but I can't appear to do anything with it.
Using Photoshop CS5 and Mac OSX Lion, I get a pink cast when I apply a Vibrance layer to my photo.
View 6 Replies View Relatedcan someone give me a tip on removing this faint white cast in the picture. it's on the left side.
View 9 Replies View RelatedDoes anyone know how to get this old vintage look? It seems the saturation is down and there is a bit of yellow added to the image maybe? I'm not quite sure, but I really like it. Any thoughts?
View 1 Replies View Relatedi just have moved one picture on top of another, and i need it to show itself casting the pictures shadow,
View 2 Replies View RelatedI have some photos I took at a car show. Unfortunately, the event was held in a garage under horrible lighting. It gave everything a yellow-orange cast. What is the best way to remove or shift the color cast to more natural light. I tried Channel Mixer to some good effect. I have attached a sample image. I realize it may be hard to recover anything, but I'm just interesting in the technique.
Note in the image, there is almost no blue. The Channel mixer allows "converting" some of the other light into blue. I'm I on the right track?