When designing print work i.e Posters etc, can you design the ad in RGB then after convert to CMYK? I know that most print work needs to be in CMYK colors. When i convert the colors to CMYK they look really wrong, although they look off in CMYK - when the ad is printed would it look roughly like it does in RGB or does it look like it does in CMYK?
View 3 RepliesSo I am working on this document and it has silver background. I go to print preview (Photoshop cs3 and cs4 on Vista) and I get color looking more like bronze looking but when I do print, it comes out just like it should (in working mode which is Monitor RGB with Proof colors checked).
This setting is the only one I've used to make sure image/psd looks exactly like what it should when printing. I tried the default Working CMYK with and without Proof colors but it's still showing me the bronze look instead of silver. I've looked on the net and no exact easy fix for this was found. I really really appreciate any help.
Another simple question is regarding size. I'm working on a document size of 17.5 x 8.7 inches and the actual Banners will be printed at size 175 x 87 inches (5 banners each at 35inch wide but combined into a big one). So essentially, I'm working at 10% the size of what the final print will be and my file size is 760mgs. You can only imagine how big the file would be if I work on the actual size.
I can only print my photoshop work on A4 when I want it on A3. Its not greyed out it doesnt respond. Strange as it was working no problem then suddenly stopped. I am using a mac OX10.8.4 and a macbook pro. I have reloaded my printers drivers Brother DCP 6690CWP and it still doesnt work.
View 2 Replies View RelatedYesterday I had to uninstall my cs6 and reinstall it to recognize new RAM I installed. Today in Photoshop the print settings work in the 32 bit version but do not work in the 64 bit version of Photoshop.
View 4 Replies View RelatedPrint size in Photoshop CC does not work after updating, it was working fine before but now when I click to go to print size either from the menu of right chicking when the hand tool is selected, the image just zooms right out until it is a tiny little box in the centre of the screen, no good what so ever, as I say it was working fine before the update.
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I am using window 7 with 8 gb of ram and an I7 with a 1GB graphics card.
Colour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour
Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves
Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast
If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels
Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts)
Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation
Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image
Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK
Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
I've just downloaded the latest version of Lightroom 4.3 (Win764bit), and the print templates don't work at all! If you click on the supplied Lightroom templates, the preview changes in the navigator window, but not in the main window.
Are Adobe planning to provide a patch for this any time soon, or should I look elsewhere for printing?
I though Lightroom was supposed to be an end to end workflow solution, but I've seen bug reports about the print module in various forums on the net going back nearly a year now, so maybe Adobe have lost interest in this particular module?
This is a serious workflow disruption: In CSx I could open any file, choose a print preset, click on 'custom' for Media Size and it would automatically adjust the print width and height to whatever the artwork boundaries were (Ignore Artboards ✓'d). Now in CC it just uses whatever I had set for the print preset when I created it rather than adjusting like bfore. Is there something I'm overlooking? Can/will this be fixed? This might sound like small pease compared to the overall view, but this makes a design that would normally take a few seconds to print to our screens to almost half a minute.
View 2 Replies View RelatedI'm using AutoCAD Map 3D 2009.
I've created a simple drawing in CAD that contains a cropped JPEG, a two toned hatched polygon in behind it two MTexts overlaying all.
I cannot view them in either normal plotting, pdf format, jpeg format and even dwf.Â
I've increased the ram used in the "Raster Extension Options" (2000 MB), I've set the plotting in the "Process Document" to "...In computer", I've saved it in older formats (2000/2004/2007), I've placed the drawing on both our public drives as well as the local, I've adjusted the "Raster and Shaded/Rendered Viewports" & "OLE" settings in the "Device and Document Settings" (None to Best). Not to mention the other variations in the plot menu.
I've tried everything I can think of and have read through several threads here and nothing works.
What drives me nuts about this, is that I'm able to print from a layout with no problems a 3D drawing, with 2D hatching, an extensive title block with hatching and a secondary overall viewport (minimal detail) in the main viewport area.
in print module main window for image control (not preview window in the left upper corner) is blank. what is the reason and how can be remedied? os Mac Lion 10.7.3 lightroom 4 ( the 3-rd version had the same problem)
View 8 Replies View RelatedI have C3D 2010, 2011, and 2013 installed on my pc. I use the Publish command almost daily, and haven't had any serious issues with it when using 2010 or 2011. But in 2013, when I publish it just sits on the same screen and never actually publishes. I have tried turning off Publish in Background, I have checked that the printer support paths are the same as in 2010 and 2011, and I have tried Publish with different Page Setups.Â
View 3 Replies View RelatedIn LR4 print module the print and print one tabs are greyed out and I can't reset.
View 1 Replies View RelatedWhen printing from PS CC using the print dialogue box I am getting a severe red shift in the final print. When I print the same image from PS CS5 or CS6 I get a color-correct print.
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I am running a MacPro with OS 10.7.5, and printing to a Canon iPF8300 with its latest firmware and print driver. I am using the proper ICC profile for the paper. In the print dialogue box, I select "Photoshop Manages Colors".
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A couple things I noticed: In the "Print Settings" where I dial in the printer setup, the settings for "Color" are both turned off (Colorsync & Vendor).In the printer driver settings (still within "Print Settings") the "Color" tab is grayed out, but when I click the "Settings" for that sub-panel, Colorsync is selected.When I printed the image from the Canon PS Plug-in, the red cast was gone, but the blacks were too heavy (there is no "Black Point Compensation" check box available because the Canon plug-in uses Adobe Color Engine for that, and it's only 32-bit and won't run).Â
-PC based system running Windows Home Premium 64 bit8 GB ramLots of hdd spaceCS5.5 Master Suite
-Epson Sylus Photo R1900
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Operating system, CS5 suite and printer drivers all updated.
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When attempting to print a photo, it can take anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes for the print dialog box to open up. It takes SO LONG that it appears that Photoshop has frozen, but it has not. The print dialog box opens eventually. This started about 2 months ago. I have looked at all preferences, assigned more RAM to Photoshop, uninstalled and reinstalled the entire suite, ran all updates, uninstalled and reinstalled the printer drivers - all to no avail.
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I am at a loss as to why it would take SO LONG for the print dialog box to open after selecting print? I thought there may be a problem with the print spooler or print queue, but the slowness happens BEFORE the print back system is touched. The print queue is empty, and there is nothing stuck in there. I've checked.
I'm having trouble printing in Photoshop CS2. Rregardless of which printer I try to print to, I get the message "Could not print because of a problem writing the print file". I have never encountered this error before.
The psd file I am printing is a wall banner, and is quite large (~200MB). It contains elements copied/pasted as pixels from Illustrator CS2. However even if I flatten the file, or save as a flattened tif, I still get the same error message.
Thinking that the psd file is corrupted, I tried printing an earlier version of the file, with no luck. I've even tried printing other, small unrelated files, and can't print those either. Even after rebooting the computer.
The computer I'm using has a dual core processor, 4GB RAM, a decent graphics card and is running under XP. I have gob-loads of HD space and also use a scratch disk.
I really only want to print the file myself as a proof. However, I'm concerned that the banner printers won't be able to print the file either.
I have Windows 8 and am new to Elements 11. How do I get print to completely fill a 4 x 6 print paper?
View 5 Replies View RelatedI have trial version of Elements 11; Also have full version, but have not installed yet, as I wanted to wait until I completed current project. I created/edited an album of wedding photos in the Organizer. I tried to upload album to Shutterfly to make an archival DVD and also make a photo book in Shutterfly. The photos uploaded individually to the Shutterfly print page to print individually, but the album will not upload to My Pictures, it shows the album name, but it is empty. How do I get the photos to upload?? Shutterfly was not sure how.
View 1 Replies View RelatedUsing a Mac, what is the best way to print multiple images on a 4 x 6 print in Photoshop Elements 11?
View 5 Replies View RelatedIn Photoshop CS5 some of the functions on 64 bit do not work, but everything seems to work on 32 bit. I have not searched for all the functions that don't work on 64 bit. I just use the 32 bit program, but I would like to know why the 64 bit program doesn't work right. I would like to be able to use it.
View 8 Replies View RelatedI use CS6 on a Mac pro os 10.8.3 & print to an Epson Pro 4900. If I print an image via LR4 print module the print comes out at 12 X18 in. Recently I have tried that same image via CS6 and the print comes out at 6 5/8 X 8 1/2 in.
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In Print Settings in Printer Setup in the print module of CS6Â stats "Super A3 / B 13 X 19 but the printed image dimensions are a little over half of that.The printer used to print normally in CS6 print file.
I've been using Photoshop CS3 for awhile and printing fine. I just updated my print driver (Epson 3800 to version 6.5) as well as my graphics driver (NVIDIA GeForce 8500 GT)at the same time. After rebooting I cannot click on the Print menu selection to print. IE: When I click on Menu the Print option is greyed and not selectable. Print as well as Page Setup, and Print One Copy are all greyed out (not selectable). I rolled back my graphic driver and rebooted and it still doesn't work. I then upgraded my driver again and it doesn't work. I've opened jpg's as well as psd files and no matter what file I open the Print menu's are greyed out. I can print from Word and other programs. I also reset my preferences (con-alt-shift) and still can't select print. I've done everything but uninstall. I'm hoping not to do that. My computer is on: Vista Ultimate 32 bit SP1, 4gb ram. In addition to updating the print driver and graphics driver I updated: Ultimate Extra Sounds, Group Policy Preference Client Side Extensions, Samsung CLP-310 Printer driver, and Microsoft Tinker.
View 4 Replies View RelatedI keep running into a situation where I would like to be able to create an edge or a work axis at the intersection of a work plane and the surface of the part. I figured out a work around if the surface is flat, but I haven't figured out a work around for a curved surface.
How do I create work axis where work plane intersects curved surface?
Or put another way: How do I project intersection of work plane and curved surface onto the work plane in a 2D sketch?
I need to be able to draw a 2D sketch on the work plane, but get a perfectly matching projected line onto the work plane, from the curved surface, at the intersection of the curved surface and the work plane.
The attached jpg shows the intersection in question. I circled it.
All of my block updates work just fine when I use them in MEP 12, but we have a couple of drafters working in vanilla AutoCAD & for some reason the same commands/ blocks/ settings (same exact file even) that work in MEP do not work in regular ACAD.
Now they do "work" - the commands/ block insertion - but the annotative adjustment (i.e. 1/4" to 1/8" to etc) do not work until I select the block and add the desired scale to its annotative object scale list - why is this necessary? it isn't in MEP? The blocks work/ act properly annotatively once inserted and adjusted as mentioned above, but again, why? Why? Why is this necessary? All of the scale are in the block file as it resides in my block folder...?
Adobe Colour Management Print defaults seems to be assigning RGB meta to B&W pages and incurring Colour Print charges for B&W prints.I can manually change the print colour management to Printer managed on a per print basis instead of the default adobe colour managed which "cures" the issue but I do not seem to be able to save that setting as the default.
View 1 Replies View RelatedI have a number of maps in .tiff format. I want to cut parts of these maps and paste into seperate documents. That is fine. I then want to blow them up to A4 size for print. I am slightly confused on how to do this for the following reasons: Under the "image" menu item, I can see "pixel dimensions" and below this "document size".I can also set the canvas size. I am not sure if "document" and "canvas" size are the same? Could somebody please advise me. Basically, I want to enlarge my tiffs to fill a European A4 size page. GF
View 2 Replies View RelatedI get an error saying I need to install a printer ... but CS2 works fine. What do I need to do?
Windows XP, Konica Minolta C253
When printing in 3d with the vp set to 3dhidden and the shade plot set to hidden legacy some solid items print with the wire frame. This usualy happens with torus and cones. How do I stop this?
In the example look at the U-bolt.
I am having trouble printing to an HPÂ Designjet T770 from AutoCad LT 2012, on a Windows 7 computer.
I am using the HPGL/2 driver. I can print a test page, and I can print from other programs.
When I try to print, it looks like it is sending it normally, but the printer just ignores it.
I am able to print to this printer from AutoCad 2010 on a Vista computer.
I have multiple layout pages (58 pages) and would like to print them in a printer at once. How do I do that?
Currently, I open 1 layout at a time then print it 1 by 1, in which its killing me specially if I do have lots of drawings.
Publish does saving in DWF, PDF... But does not print in the printer.
We just started in 2014 last week. When we batch plot to PDF using the DWG to PDF driver we get multi-page files no matter which is selected in the Publish Options. Any way to allow single sheet PDF creation?
View 9 Replies View RelatedI have a drawing where some lines have a 60% screening in there Plot Style. Â The print great from AutoCAD. Â But when I create a PDF and then print the PDF the Screened lines show up kind of blue / purple.
I am plotting to a Cannon iPF720 on 22x34 paper from Acrobat Reader X. Â I'm creating the PDF from AutoCAD 2012.