Photoshop :: Print Size In CC Does Not Work After Updating
Sep 11, 2013
Print size in Photoshop CC does not work after updating, it was working fine before but now when I click to go to print size either from the menu of right chicking when the hand tool is selected, the image just zooms right out until it is a tiny little box in the centre of the screen, no good what so ever, as I say it was working fine before the update.
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I am using window 7 with 8 gb of ram and an I7 with a 1GB graphics card.
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Mar 4, 2013
Since updating my MAC, photoshop 'unexpectedly quits' when I try to print.
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Jan 16, 2009
So I am working on this document and it has silver background. I go to print preview (Photoshop cs3 and cs4 on Vista) and I get color looking more like bronze looking but when I do print, it comes out just like it should (in working mode which is Monitor RGB with Proof colors checked).
This setting is the only one I've used to make sure image/psd looks exactly like what it should when printing. I tried the default Working CMYK with and without Proof colors but it's still showing me the bronze look instead of silver. I've looked on the net and no exact easy fix for this was found. I really really appreciate any help.
Another simple question is regarding size. I'm working on a document size of 17.5 x 8.7 inches and the actual Banners will be printed at size 175 x 87 inches (5 banners each at 35inch wide but combined into a big one). So essentially, I'm working at 10% the size of what the final print will be and my file size is 760mgs. You can only imagine how big the file would be if I work on the actual size.
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May 7, 2012
In the attached part if I change the value of the length parameter from 19" to 20" Work Axis 1 updates to the 19" location, if I change it back from 20" to 19" it goes to the 20" position.
In the images below, the axis should be in the center of that last slot.
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Oct 7, 2013
how do i match on screen document size to view print size? when i create a new document and put in its dimensions when i press view print size it appears alot smaller on screen
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Jan 9, 2003
I'm using Photoshop 7. I create a new document 8.5 x 11 inches at 150 pixels per inch.
I draw a circle 1" from the top of the image. The circle is 3" in radius.
When I print the circle is nearly .25" smaller in radius and slightly less than 1" from the top.
Why is the output not in the same placement and proportions as the image on the screen?
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Aug 10, 2012
I noticed just lately, if I update the height of the text in my IDW through Styles Editor, not all the text in the document updates? Why would this be? All the text is under the text style "Instruction Text", but when I update the text height in the Instruction text style, only some of the text updates and I have to manually update all the rest?
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Mar 29, 2012
I have CS5.1 on a Macbook Pro.I have an incredibly frustrating problem.   I've seen similar questions, but not an answer that has resolved this for me. I have an image I have sized to fit an 8.5 x 11 inch paper. Canvas and image size all indicate my image is sized at 7.33 x 11 inches. It is at 300 dpi. Print size view indicates full space is utilized on either side….BUT…
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When I go to print, I click "scale to fit media" (which is an 8.5 x 11 paper sitting in printer) image prints smaller with a bar on one side. .
When I uncheck STFM,
I get:
scale - 92.67%,
[code]...
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Jul 16, 2004
The rule of thumb for traditional illustration work is to do the original about 1/3 larger than it will be printed to allow for some tightening up. My question is, when working in photoshop at 300 dpi, is there any reason to work larger than the print size?
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Feb 28, 2014
I have just bought and installed Lightroom 5 and need to set my print size to A3 and in the future even bigger. I do not have the facility at home and need to have them sized correctly for the print shop so they do not have to waste time resizing them. I am at a loss how to do this. I cant find any settings for this size print. A3 is roughly 42 x 29.7 cm.
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Jun 13, 2012
I have a template with layouts of different sizes that had been working fine with a previous Xerox 6204. My D size and E size automatically oriented with the 36" side parallel to the roll feed. I have since moved to a job that got a Designjet T2300. On this machine the D size orients the 24" side parallel. This wastes 1' of paper on the left and uses 1' extra as it runs the 36" side perpendicular. I have been unable to rectify the problem. I have tried printing in portrait, that actually cut off some of the image. I have tried all types of rotation within the driver and layouts. Tech support had me going into the machine settings and set rotation to 90. Nothing. There is a warning that "HP utilities" is not installed. Could this be a remedy? When the tech came to set up the printer he installed the necessary drivers but mad no mention of this utility.
AC2012, HP desighjet T2300
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Feb 17, 2011
Our supplier sent us some wierd size pdfs that are not full size or half size. I am trying to resize them to full size pdfs (Arch D) but am unable to figure this out in Acrobat.
My work-around is to insert them in AutoCAD and scale them based on known dimensions, then print to pdf. Unfortunately the resulting file is collosal and the quality degraded.
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Oct 10, 2006
When designing print work i.e Posters etc, can you design the ad in RGB then after convert to CMYK? I know that most print work needs to be in CMYK colors. When i convert the colors to CMYK they look really wrong, although they look off in CMYK - when the ad is printed would it look roughly like it does in RGB or does it look like it does in CMYK?
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Oct 17, 2013
I want to create a template whereby I can make a series of images that I can save as jpgs, upload to my blog, and people can print them. When they print, I want them to be one quarter of a sheet of paper (fit four to a page).
I tried creating a new image using the "inches" specification and those inches seem to have no bearing on inches in real life once printed.
So then I figured that a sheet of paper is 8.5 by 11 and I want a resolution of 300 dpi.
So 8.5 times 300: 2,550 pixels. Times that by 0.25 to get a quarter of it: 637.5 (which gets rounded to 638 pixels).
11 times 300: 3,300 pixels. Times that by 0.25= 825 pixels.
So I put in for 638 pixels by 825 pixels and 300 dpi. I created my image. I saved it as a jpg at full resolution. I uploaded it to my site and tested out the printing.
It took up most of a sheet of paper. Not even close to being a quarter of a sheet.
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May 7, 2013
I've been using 2.6 and created a template for multiple business cards on a standard 8.5 by 11 sheet. [URL]
However the later versions ... 2.8 cause distortions when I try to print. ( Canon MG 2120) The standard 8.5 by 11 mysteriously converts to 7.997 by 10.349 inches .... and a weird 318.870 ppi appears. This obviously distorts my template and the 2 by 3.5 inch cards become odd sizes. When I open the template in 2.6, it works perfectly.
What has happened to the later version? i can't reset to inches and even using the 2559 by 3300 pixils with the 1050x600 card sizecan't be printed accurately So I'm now creating in 2.8 and opening in 2.6 to get my sizes correctly.
I love the expanded tools for drawing in the 2.8 ... but this feature is a nuisance ... along of course with the terrible sizing scale for the brushes. SO hard to calibrate the smaller and moe common sizes. Another bad feature.
Have I missed some adjustment somewhere. Using the same printer, same download gives two different prints sizes in 2.6 and 2.8.
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Apr 13, 2012
I know Photoshop can do this but is there anyway to make the pixel size not change if im messing with the print size of a photo?
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Jul 10, 2012
lately I've been started working on Illustrator, since I've always loved the vector pen tool in Photoshop, but I've notice something...
let's say I want to work on an A4 page. I start a new PRINT document, and set the A4 size at 300 DPI. If I do that on Photoshop, I'll get a huge white page that at 100% goes way out my screen, but if I start a document with the same size in Illustrator, I get a page that's smaller than my screen (at 100%).
I guess it's normal because those programs might work in different ways, but I'm concerned about it because this way, in Illustrator a 1pt size brush will always be bigger than in Photoshop.
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Jun 12, 2013
I can only print my photoshop work on A4 when I want it on A3. Its not greyed out it doesnt respond. Strange as it was working no problem then suddenly stopped. I am using a mac OX10.8.4 and a macbook pro. I have reloaded my printers drivers Brother DCP 6690CWP and it still doesnt work.
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Oct 26, 2013
I go through a lot of sketch stages to get to a final picture, and I sometimes print on legal paper. My Brother printer does fine at that with Apple Pages, MSWord, Acrobat, and Illustrator, but with Photoshop there's a problem. I set up a legal-size image in PS, go through all the settings I can find for printing to a non-letter-format sheet, hit print, and what I get is a letter-size patch of image on a legal-size sheet. Clearly, either I am missing something or PS is missing something.
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Aug 24, 2012
Yesterday I had to uninstall my cs6 and reinstall it to recognize new RAM I installed. Today in Photoshop the print settings work in the 32 bit version but do not work in the 64 bit version of Photoshop.
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Dec 1, 2003
Colour correction can involve up to seven steps: setting Gray to correct color, achieving good contrast, balancing colour to remove colour casts, adjusting skin tones, saturation, sharpening and converting to CMYK.
Make sure info palette is open. Set (palette options) your first colour readout to grayscale and your second to RGB. Choose the eye dropper tool and set the sample size to 3x3.
1. Finding Gray to correct colour
Find a neutral gray in the image. K in the info palette should read 50%. If there is no gray, find an object that is somewhat neutral. Write down the numbers displayed in the RGB readout window. Add these values together and divide by 3 to get the average brightness of these values. (Equal RGB values will create a neutral gray with no colour cast.)
Image>adjust>curves
Leaving the pop-up set to RGB will only change the RGB in equal amounts. This is not the correct procedure.
Start by choosing the Red channel. Click anywhere on the curve to add a point. Click on the input number and enter the Red Value of the sampled colour. Click on the output number and ten enter the average number you calculated.
Repeat this step for the Green and Blue channels. Most of the colour cast should be removed after this step is complete.
If the image looks totally out of whack, you may have selected from a poor area. Try finding another neutral area on the image.
2. Achieving good contrast
If the image looks flat and lifeless you may need to optimize the contrast. The best way to adjust the contrast is to adjust the levels for each colour. (Adjusting the RGB slider may cause posterization effects in your image.)
Image>adjust>levels
Change the pop-up window to Red and drag the input sliders (left and right) until they touch the beginning and end of the main histogram. Ignore stray pixels and concentrate on the areas where the slope begins and ends.
Repeat this process for the Green and Blue Channels.
Your image now has a full range of contrast (0-255) for each of RG&B.
3. Colour Balance (removing colour casts)
Highlight, shadow and mid-point are three areas of an image that should usually be a shade of gray. The objective here is to make the brightest area of the image as bright as possible and the darkest as dark as possible without losing detail.
Pure white (255, 255, 255) settings will "blow-out" when the image is printed and pure black (0, 0, 0) will "plug" when printed.
To adjust for this you need to set up minimum and maximum ink limits. Click on the foreground colour to open the colour picker. Set the Saturation (S) to 0 and Brightness (B) 100 (white) and then click on the Brightness button. Move the slider down the grayscale bar until the Magenta and Yellow readouts indicate values to who are adjusting toward. (M 5%, Y 5%) The cyan value is usually higher.
When done, check the RGB values to the left. They will show you the value (they should be the same) to be used to achieve the minimum ink values in CMYK. Make note of the RGB value.
Repeat the process for the shadow areas.
Total ink limit is usually around or less then 300% (add the CMYK values). Make note of the RGB values here as well. For the midtones area, refer to the colour readout in the info palette. Add the numbers and divide by three.
Create a curves adjustment layer. Since you are attempting to balance out the colours, you need to work on the individual colour channels by adjusting them. Add an adjustment point to each curve (central location) Proceed to apply the values for the highlight, shadown and midtones by selecting the appropriate adjustment point and entering the input and output values.
For the mid-point area you will have to use the individual RGB channel adjustment.
4. Skin Tones
I'll do this later. The image now should be pretty good and this step may not be necesary.
5. Optimizing Saturation
Before adjusting the saturation, turn on the Gamut Warning.
view>gamut warning
Create another adjustment layer for Hue/Saturation. If no gray appears in your image you can increase the saturation until you start seeing small areas of gray. If you see large areas of gray (blotches), your image is over saturated. Decrease the saturation if this is the case.
After all these corrections, merge the adjustment layers with the image.
6. Sharpening the Image
Use Unsharp Mask
Filter>sharpen>unsharp mask
Adjust Radius: Radius controls how wide samples are on each side of an edge. A small radius creates a smaller halo. A general rule of thumb is to use a radius of output resolution divided by 200 (300ppi/200=1.5 radius). This is a starting points but dont vary too much from it.
Amount: Amount adjusts how intense the halos are or how much tonal differences are accentuated. Start at around 200% and work your way up or down as desired.
Threshhold: Low threshold values result in an overall sharper image. Try starting at 3-4. Anything about 10 exclude so many areas it is difficult to see any effect in the image.
7. Converting the image to CMYK
Convert the image to CMYK mode and then turn on the Gamut Warning and check to see there are no large gray blotches. The image is now ready to print.
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Mar 14, 2012
In another thread it is mentinoed pre-sizing image data to prepare it for best printing.For a long time it's been "standard advice" to resize images so that the ppi is an even division of the printer's dpi, because some years ago occasionally one would run across printers that would produce poor results if you didn't - you might see jaggies in straight edges for example.
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Thing is, computers have (not so) quietly been getting more powerful over time, and printer makers have been competing with one another to try to make their printers produce better results than the other guys. One way they've done this is by improving the quality of the algorithms in the printer drivers. Use of mega storage and high accuracy math, which was once taxing on older computer systems, is now standard practice.
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Making a few assumptions about the many variables (what printer, what OS, what version of drivers, what application being used to print) , there seem to be several questions here:
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1. Can the image resolution be too high, causing the printer driver to make bad decisions about what ink dots to lay down where on the paper?
2. Does it matter if the image PPI is an even division of the printer's DPI?
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As I have done in the past, I set out to do some actual testing, to see if I can actually SEE anything to answer these questions.I created a sharp image to be printed at 3 x 2 inches:Â [URL]...
Then I printed it at 6 different resolutions (1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, and 100 ppi) by resampling the image, labeling it, printing from Photoshop CS5, and feeding the same sheet of HP Premium Plus photo paper through my older HP 932c inkjet printer 6 times. The printer was set to its highest quality settings, including 2400 x 1200 dpi mode. This was the result:
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I then looked critically and as objectively as I could at the different images. Here are my observations:Naked eye:
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The four highest resolution images (1000, 720, 567, and 300 ppi) all seemed to have an equivalent high level of crisp detail.I could not detect the inkjet dots. Smooth objects look smooth.Â
I could see significant reduction in the finest details in the 300 ppi print vs. the three higher resolution prints, and a slight reduction in the 567 ppi vs. 720.At no resolution were any jaggies or evidence of aliasing visible.The inkjet dot pattern was plainly visible, and it does differ between the different prints. But it was not possible to say whether one was "better".Things seem to have a little more texture in the 1000 ppi print vs. the 720 and 567 ppi prints.Â
Lacking a high resolution scanner, I took photographs of the 6 different prints. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time to set up with my best lighting and lens combination, so I got some reflections off the glossy paper, and and at this resolution I can't really see the inkject dots in the photos. I want to repeat this when I can find more time to do it better. As I did these photos hand-held, I believe the variances between them could be slightly influencing the results. But I'm going to post them anyway, for you to see.
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I could see ever so slightly more detail in the 720 ppi print vs. the 1000 ppi print, though from the size of the tiny dust/light reflections I think it may have just been the better focused. Note that this observation is not supported by direct observation through the jeweler's loupe, above.The 1000 ppi and 567 ppi prints seems to have slightly more noise or texture than the 720 ppi print.Â
Again, this might be issues introduced by the photography process, though I did note a possible increase in texture in the 1000 ppi print with the jeweler's loupe as well.Beyond just the blurring, I could see some evidence that straight lines are not quite as straight in the lower resolutions (300 ppi and lower). This seemed more apparent than with the jeweler's loupe examination, and I wonder whether the Photoshop downsampling process could have introduced it.Â
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Left to right, top to bottom:Â 1000, 720, 567, 300, 200, 100:
Conclusions:
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Printing to my HP 932c inkject printer on Windows 7 x64
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300 ppi is not sufficient to coax the best possible detail out of an inkjet printer. It appears a number in the vicinity of 720 or more is better, and this number could be much higher with modern very high resolution printers (mine's old). Speed was no different in printing any of these - a modern computer can process a huge amount of data in the blink of an eye.When a sufficiently high resolution image is printed (in this case 567 ppi or higher)
I saw virtually no evidence that a particular ppi value is superior, for example an even division of the printer's dpi, though in hindsight I realize I should have prepared a 600 ppi image (duh). I will add a 600 ppi image before I re-photograph the results.It's possible ever so slightly more texture becomes visible at 1000 ppi than 720 ppi, but it might be just noise.Practically speaking, from looking critically at the results I could not see a reason to pre-size the image for a specific ppi value.Â
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Jul 10, 2006
I've done a photo merge and am working on it at a size of 12cm (h) x 57cm because my poor old mac is able to save changes faster at this size.
The real size I want to print it at is much, much bigger - a banner. When i choose print size, it looks pretty good (about 30%), but if I zoom it to 100% its really jagged. Which do I believe in terms of print quality? Will it print how it looks at 100%?
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Jul 4, 2006
just started printing shots from my Canon A620 on my HP Photosmart 8450, using Elements 4, With help from Scott Kelby’s book “The Photoshop Elements 4 Book” I reduced the size of a shot down to 83 X 62 mm in Photoshop, but when I printed it out on the 8450 on HP 6 X 4 Tabbed paper, it actually came out as 88 X 65 mm!
In previous 6 X 4 prints I thought I had lost a little,
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Nov 19, 2013
I have this issue in Photoshop CS6 which I don't find in the older version. I only can click from the dropdown menu as the shortcut key function "Alt+Ctrl+C" is not applicable?
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Sep 12, 2012
I am trying to design a banner for a client, that is 20 feet long.And when I highlight the text and make it 500, 600 pt its fins but as soon as I try and change to 700 or 800, it completely disappears and you cannot see the font.Why can't I do bigger than 600?
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Mar 20, 2013
I am using Mech 2007. I have created a template to use with new drawings, and want to know if there is a way to update all the drawings at the same time when updating the template.
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Oct 29, 2013
I am editing and saving pictures from a original size from the camera width 2623 pixel( 8.73in) X 4166 pixel(13.887in). I need to make prints as 5x7in and 4x6in. It seems that no matter how I size them in adobe CS6 they will not print in correct size at either URL.... which I use for prints. I also have pictures from my new camera, canon 7d and it's picture size is 3456 poixel(48in) X 5184 pixel(72in) , also can't get these sized correctly.
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Jul 5, 2012
Why would images print significantly smaller than designed (I'm referring to the ruler size, NOT the screen size) when the pixel aspect ratio in Photoshop is set to square pixels and 300 dpi? Does Premier or AE reset PhotoShop pixel dimenions on the sly in the Master Collection?
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We have a summer intern designing business card size (3.5" x 2") inspiration cards on an old laptop that was used for video production with with the CS3 Master Collection and a CS4 Production Premium upgrade.
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The 3.5 x 2.0 cards print out at about 3 3/8" by 1 15/16" on every one of the half dozen different printers we've tried them on, including FedEx Office locations and several different Lexmark office printers. Image size is 1050 px by 600 px, i.e., 3.5" by 2.0"
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When we lay out a number of cards on an 8" x 11" sheet and save it as a pdf, and then open the pdf in Photoshop and measure the image sizes, each card clearly measures 3.5" by 2" but still prints in the distorted 3 3/8" by 1 15/16" size.
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The smaller print problem persists if we save the images as tif, jpg or bmp. Opening the files and resaving them in CS5.5 doesn't work either. It's a problem with both the CS3 and CS4 versions of Photoshop on that laptop.
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It looks like something is forcing the pixels into a smaller rectangular shape but I don't know where else to look to try to fix it.
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Our CS5.5 Master Collection Photoshop is doing the same thing, only not as much. I'd like to be able to print the cards close to actual size. The problem persists for 5.5" x 8.5" bookcover designs too.
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May 13, 2013
Where is view at print size in the latest version of photoshop?
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Aug 10, 2012
Here's a quick tip where you can set the magnification of "View > Print Size" to reflect the actual physical size of your document.
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1. Measure the horizontal viewable size of your monitor or laptop screen. For example: 13.75 inches.Â
2. Note your horizontal resolution. 1366 pixels for instance.Â
3. Divide pixels into inches to get your screen resolution per inch. 1366/13.75 = 99.3 pixels/in Â
4  In Photoshop's Preferences > Units & Rulers, enter this value under New Document Preset Resolutions shown in the screenshot. Save and close.
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After that,when you select Print Size,the document and even the onscreen rulers will reflect actual size. Now with Open GL graphics cards being fairly common,the odd magnification needed for those results won't appear jagged.
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