I've been asked by a friend to create a CD cover and inlay for a his band, something I haven't done before (i've only done web-design until now).
I've been reading up online about how to create them and I've been getting nowhere, fast! I read that a CD cover should be 120mm x 120mm, but this appears to be HUGE on my small monitor screen and I have to zoom out in order to see what I'm doing!
In Recolor artwork is there a way to change the black and white colors to a color? When I try to edit them it doesn't edit them at all. It would be nice if I didn't have to manually tweak the colors to have color before I go into Recolor Artwork.
I usually design for the screen (72) but lately i feel that if im putting massive amounts of time/effort into a piece.... that I dont want to deny myself the option of getting it printed down the road. Now here is the catch...my camera is only 2MP. So the best i can do with that is an 8X10 @ 150dpi which isnt much (its ok quality.....i have an 11X14 @150 hanging on my wall thats decent).
So now when i go to create a new piece i dont know what size to make it. I cant jam up the ppi to far cause i dont have that kinda quality photograph...but i dont want a small document set to 72 cause if i want it res it up i get an extremely small print.
Like 2 examples...one piece i have i made 612x792 (8x10) but its at 72..so if i wanted to print it at 150 (at best) it's going to be really small (4x5... if that). Now another piece i made is 1000x1294 @72 (a large 8x10). Now with this size my 1600x1200 photographs fit fine and if i res it up to 150 i can still achieve an ok 8x5.
So now what do i do. I cant make an 8x11 @ 300 ( i dont have that kinda quality) but i hate the fact that an image i put so much work into can only print like 3x4.
I have two documents, one with a larger canvas than the other. If I bring a layer from the larger document to the smaller one I end up with artwork that is off the artboard/canvas and invisible. I can see this artwork if I drag the layer around.
Is there a way to remove this content which is unused/unseen? I get the feeling that it is bloating my file sizes...
I created several business cards and other artworks in Photoshop cs5. I was wondering if Photoshop can generate a visualization of business cards (for example) like if it was a real PRINTED business card and place on table (like a real render)? if not, do you know any tool that do such thing for Photoshop work ?
I'm working on some packaging and product manuals for a product that is a cylindrical tube (say like an awareness bracelet). The final product is supposed to have some branding silkscreened onto it, wrapped around the tube. I have a spec sample of the item that I will be using for product photos but it doesn't have the branding that I'm going to print on it. I'm going to have to map the artwork that will be printed on the final product onto the photos that will be taken.
I'm trying to figure out a way that I can take the branding and map it onto photos of the product in photoshop in proper perspective (so that it looks realistic)
I've already searched the web and didn't find any good solutions. (Most of what I found was tutorials on wrapping labels on a soda can. This could be good if I could quickly and precisely position a 3D object in photoshop directly over my photo and then map my artwork onto that shape, making sure that the 3d geometry is invisible while the artwork that I map on remains visible, but my experimenting did no yield good results. I also tried using Illustrator's 3d tools but I found that when rotating 3D shapes, they don't rotate in perspective [you cant get shapes to appear as if they are in 3 point perspective] and so I would not be able to properly overlay an illustrator 3d shape over an image.)
I'm sure this had to be done before and I'm sure there's a simple straightforward way to do this.
how do paint in the same way.I think she starts by do some texture to her cleaned artwork using only gray.Then I think she apply some filter / adjustment to every area (in another layer) to give the colors to the objects.I've try to do the color change to her arm after changing it to grayscale.Then I used a layer in multiply mode then paint with skin color on it.Final part was hue/saturation editing.
I don't like my version.It seems very flat. Seems to be the same color with daker variations.The original was so colorful and shiny with dynamic colors.how to have this kind of effect?
I am preparing some 4-colour artwork (Text & Graphics) for printing onto canvas banners, finished size 8ft x 3ft. Never done this this big before. Surely I do not need to size the artwork in PhotoShop at that size, as the file sizes are massive?
Im doin some artwork for some software that'll sit on the desktop like Winamp does and Im wondering how you get the edges of an oval to look less jaggy?
Ive converted to Index colour cause I understand for desktop stuff like that it cant have antialiased edges right?.....and the bitmap image I have now has awful jaggy edges!
Do I get round it by Stair-stepping?....if so what is it and how do I do it?
This has been driving me crazy since the new CS3 version came out. In the old days when I wanted to find the layer my element was on, I'd ctrl-click it (PC) and bang, that layer would be active. One of the most useful shortcuts ever invented...
Which is why Adobe had to go and screw with it. Now all that does is give you the folder, which is useless to me - I often will have 30-40 folders, those having many subfolders and many layers.
The lame replacement I have seen is "oh, click the palette icon of the layer" - which makes NO sense because *I don't know what the layer is* - that's the info I am trying to find out!
I know some graphic designers custom make everything for print work but a lot have to use pre-made elements that can be incorporated into their projects. Items such as borders,artwork,backgrounds, etc. Where can I find who has these elements to use?
My artwork is in 72dpi - 1920 by 1080 for HDTV... Artwork is clear and sharp on my computer. I understand to save to a BMP or TIFF instead of a JPG... but how can I acheive that same great clarity once I transfer that artwork to a DVD (for commercial purposes..)that I also want to send and share that DVD for others to view. Example: When you see a video game cut scene, or the menu screen... (such as in "Conan" for PS3) the cut scenes STATIC SHOTS are watercolor artwork (as mine) and they are brilliant in sharpness and clarity - though when I burned just a few of mine to a dvd... they were not up to good standards as previously explained.
Is it best to save to Blu Ray Disk or... Don't think it's compression yet as I only tested 3 pieces of art on one dvd. What is the best manner possible to put my artwork onto a DVD and get that same game design quality in appearance... and not slightly fuzzed out? The TV I viewed it on is a plasma 50in 1080p or i think.
I'm trying to add text to artwork but keep getting a tansparent red filter when I click on the image. Can add text but can not manipulate it, change the font or highlight it. How do I get rid of this filter thing?
In previous versions of Photoshop until CS6, with your work set to 'Float in Window' mode, moving your artwork window meant that it sat behind the program interface at all times, so you could move it to the side of the screen and it would sit underneath your panels, layers, text, colors, tools etc...
In CS6, it now sits on top of it. This is extremely annoying as it means having to manually arrange the windows so they don't obscure the working tools. Any reason why this was changed? I'm sure it works for some people but it's disrupting my workflow.
I need to set up photoshop artwork (which consists of about 5 layers) for a 6m x 3m billboard. I set up my whole billboard in Illustrator (at 3m x 1,5m - half of actual size) and placed the psd image in. I set up my photoshop artwork at a third of actual size (3m x 1m at 300dpi). However, this made my file VERY slow to work with (result was about 700mb!!!!). Someone suggested that I downscale the image to 500mm wide and choose resample image > Bicubic Sharper (best for reduction). This scaled my psd file to about 32mb, which worked much faster. Then I saved the psd file as a Tiff with LZW compression without layers and placed into my illustrator file. However, when I export for print as PDFX1a- 2001 my file size was only 17mb!!!! Did I do the whole process correctly?! Will the print quality still be fine for such a big billboard? Is there a better / standard way to set up photoshop graphics for a billboard?
Say we designed a small newspaper advert of 3.5X2.25 inches. we designed it and now its time to show the draft to the client. if we print it from photoshop then the print comes ok and comes in exact size.
if we save as or save for web than thats a huge image as per screen size so whats the method to produce a JPEG which will have same viewable and printable size.
or how to make a file which when client views show him the artwork in exact size as it will be printed.
I am a mixed media artist/art teacher and I pay a local printer to adjust the colors of my work via Photoshop so that the final print matches the colors in my original artwork. I would like to learn to do this myself, but I have no clue which product I need to purchase or how to get started.
When I copy artwork from an Illustrator CS6 RGB file and paste it as a smart object into Photoshop CS6 the colors are changing slightly. Here's an example:
RGB 234, 76, 52 (original color in Illustrator artwork) RGB 233, 75, 52 (color of smart object pasted into Photoshop)
Why the color is changing? I need the color to be an exact match.
I have CS6 Creative Suite and the applications are synchronized using the same color settings (North America General Purpose 2). I've tried using both proccessed and spot colors in Illustrator but have the same issue with both.
i am trying to resize my image for an art show entry. I finished and noticed there is a blue box around it. I am wondering if that means it hasn't been done correctly.
I need to use a spot black on some packaging. The spot black will be used as a vignette on top of a photograph of the product which is done in Photoshop. I have created the packaging in Illustrator and need to import this file but it needs to have the spot colour intact. So far I have created a PSD with a Spot channel which I thought was the answer but Illustrator can't read PSDs with spot channels. I then saved it as an eps but when I import an eps it only shows a white rectangle as opposed to the actual artwork.
We've just received some artwork from a client in a PDF format, when this artwork is viewed in Adobe Acrobat it shows a star embedded in the artwork,but when the same PDF is opened in Illustrator CS6 this star doesn’t appear...... No warnings are shown to say artwork is missing or has been placed either?
But however when the artwork is exported from Adobe Acrobat in an EPS format, and then this EPS file opened in Illustrator CS6 the star appears.
I have a bunch of artwork that I need to fit to artboards that need to be the same size, basically I'm looking for something similar to "Fit to Frame" in Premiere/After Effects.
I need to export some artwork from Illustrator CC to a PSD. It'll work on some artboards but on others I get an error "Photoshop file could not be saved.".I've restarted and updated.
Program: CorelDraw X6 64 bitOS: Windows 7 SP1 64 bit
I have problem when exporting selected only artwork to eps. The artwork itself contains standard fill objects with no strokes and no special effect on each object (drop shadow, powerclip, etc). On EPS Export dialog I change nothing, just clicked OK button.
The problem is there is no sign if the process success or fail.The file created only have zero bytes.The File>Exit menu is dimmed.When I try to close the document, it say:
Some of the documents could not be closed, because tasks are being performed in the background. Check the status bar of each opened document to see what tasks are being performed and their progress.
I can't close the document and exit the program, so I have to use Task Manager. Also if I continue to edit the artwork, i.e. selecting an object inside a group, the program crashed.
The Windows Crash Report:
Problem signature: Problem Event Name: APPCRASH Application Name: CorelDrw.exe Application Version: 16.0.0.707 Application Timestamp: 4f4c60a4 Fault Module Name: ntdll.dll Fault Module Version: 6.1.7601.17725 Fault Module Timestamp: 4ec4aa8e Exception c0000005 Exception Offset: 000000000005386a OS Version: 6.1.7601.2.1.0.256.1 Locale ID: 1057 Additional Information 1: 91e0 Additional Information 2: 91e002aff0b00b72d21810f7f6e3ec21 Additional Information 3: df3c Additional Information 4: df3c618bdba74b45b8aca9fde7c3e7c7
I am looking to have my .cdr files viewable by my Road sales men. I want to make a .jpg listing of all my .cdr files with multipage .cdrs have filename-2, etc.
Would like to keep the same folder structure that my .cdrs are in but under /jpg/
What can I do other than manually re-save all these files? What kind of Batch export with sub-folders is possible? I have tried the file convert, but it fails after 4 files.
I've experienced when using CorelDraw X5 with Windows 7, in Windows Explorer it will only show the generic CorelDraw X5 "green" icon for a thumbnail. It doesn't show the thumbnail of the actual artwork. Workaround to show the artwork thumbnail?