I'm doing a series of illustrations for a client. I scanned in the black and white inked drawings and then colored them in Photoshop 7 as TIFFs. I worked in CMYK mode the whole time.
when I look at a thumbnail of the saved TIFFs or open them in any other application (windows picture & fax viewer, paint, etc.) I get these dark and murky colors. I get these same murky colors printing from these applications. However, if I open the TIFF image in Photoshop the colors go back to the way they should be. They also print correctly from Photoshop. If I save the image as a JPEG, the colors save correctly.
My client just printed off the first round of proofs (from a laser printer, I assume) and the colors are dark and murky.
The problem is that they want the images sent as TIFFs and I don't know what the four color offset printer is going to do.
I've been using Photoshop CS 6 extended, version 13.1.2 x64, for several months. I've never had a problem using the 3D features (except I suck at it), but now my entire 3D menu has mysteriously been grayed out. I can't perform any 3D tasks. My video card, drivers, RAM,etc... all appear to be working fine. In fact, everything else in Photoshop appears to work fine.
I have been working on a painting for a few days, and after I was done with the underpainting, I saved the file as another one with a different name, and continued work on that file.
I had finished it, saved, and left photoshop open for a few hours. Later today I came back to it to make some final adjustments and while I was drawing, it suddenly and apparently for no reason reverted to the state it was when I first saved it (that is, like the original file).
I know there's probably no way to recover the file how it was before this thing happened, but what might have happenedSomething weird though, is that I opened the original file, the first one, and it had bits of the work that was supposed to be saved on the newer file.
I have this XREF that is the topo for many drawings. I don't remember the original size, maybe around 6 MB, and now it is 9.9 MB and nothing has been added to it. It bogs down all of the drawings it is Ref'd into. Drawings with it take around 5 mins to open, save, and close.
I ran drawing clean up, no ref's attached to it, purged everything, zeroed out the Z values for everything in the drawing. There are about 51,000 +/- objects in the drawing. I have also tried copying and pasting everything into a new drawing, but crashed CAD.
I've used the blend tool to make a series of lines between two other lines; I need to expand everything so that the whole thing becomes a fill-only object (no strokes):
- I expand it (Object > Expand; Object box checked, Fill box checked, Stroke box checked) and the object becomes strokes-only (no fill at all)
- I expand it again (Object > Expand; Object box greyed out, Fill box checked, Stroke box checked) and the object becomes fill-only (yay!) except the shape of the lines has changed (boo!). Unchecking the stroke box and leaving only the Fill box checked seems to have no effect, the object remains stroke-only).
I work with floorplans a lot in my job and I come across this a lot so I figured I'd ask to save me a ton of time. Sometimes I get floorplans in a PDF format that I have to edit in Photoshop. Sometimes, the floorplans come to me very light (the black outlines of walls, doors, the building, etc.) are not as dark as I need them to be. I've tried to go to the Adjustments Menu --> Curves and darkened it that way. But then when I go to flatten the picture, it goes back to the light black color it was before. Is there any way to make the lines darker and to stay darker?
I am trying to quantitate data on some black and white microscope pictures I took, but the images are too bright in parts and I need to darken them down.
Is there a way that I can use photoshop to darken certain pixel values within the photo?
I have tried adjusting the levels in the picture so that the greys are limited, and I have tried changing the greyscale, but to no avail.
I need to make it so that two images have the same pixel values so that they can be calculated evenly.
Just opened a Premiere project and went to edit a title. Although the title still shows up as a purple clip, and is still in the same location in the project explorer, it is no longer able to be edited, but instead plays like an AVI file. Also, it seems the underlying video and title have been merged into one clip on the timeline instead of two overlapping clips.
Screenshot below: See in the project explorer where the title files have been converted, plus in the timeline how all videos are compressed on Track 1 as a newly created avi.
I have some hand drawings scanned into a computer that I want to clean up in Photoshop.I'm going to use the eraser tool to erase the smudges, though I want to darken the lines of the drawing without having to trace back over it with a pencil, pen, or paint brush. I played a bit by darkening the levels.
I have a camera I like, but a problem with it. I took a few indoor photos and it took awhile to get enough light arranged for them. When I put the camera's SD card in the card reader and looked at the photos they looked great. I copied the photos to a folder then deleted everything on the card to get it ready for the next photos.
Then when I look at the photos from the desktop folder, they are much darker. I don't do this a lot but it has happened at least once before, and I think it does that all the time. Possible to just lighten photos with Gimp?
I did find a page that said you could, but it is probably an old page, at brighten dark photo with Gimp. It instructs me to Quote:Duplicate the original image layer in the layers dialog. Change the Mode of this duplicated layer to Value -mode to use this layer for a retouching brightening of colors.
When I create a duplicate layer, click on image, hover over mode, none of the options are value. Maybe that was for an older version of Gimp? The page doesn't have a date which isn't nice.
What the problem might be between the Canon view, and the windows 7 view? Is there something I can tweak in 7?
Edit: I found it in the colors > brightness and contrast, but maybe I can leave this up in case someone knows how to stop the darkening from happening in the first place. The photo quality isn't as good as it was in the Canon folder.
Is there a way to darken the color of multiple shapes all at once? Eg, If I had a number of shapes all in different, pastelle colors and wanted to see how those shapes would look in more prominent, darker vertions of themselves, how would I do that?
E.g., turning the light purple of the shape below to the dark purple in the image.
In my Lightroom2 whenever I import my RAW files (I shoot RAW and JPG) they are automatically darkened in Lightroom and I don't know why. I'll import them and for a few seconds see how I shot them and how they should look and then when I click on the image in the DEVELOP module, it will change the exposure and make the picture about two stops darker. I don't understand why it is doing this. I shoot with a Canon 5d Mark II. I know it's not my camera, I have tried every setting on it. I believe Lightroom is compromising my images and darkening them.
I need to know the best way to lighten part of a picture without it being two-toned. An example of this is when I took a picture of someone inside a house.
The orange dress is vivid, and the white wall and door came out good also. The problem is that the lighting wasn't good enough to bring out the true skin tone of the person. So much so that the person's face could hardly be seen, and her neck and hands came out the same as her face also.
I tried to lighten her face by using the Ellipse in Tools>Adjustment>Brightness/Contrast making sure not to go outside the perimeter of the face. I then zoomed to 1600X and manually changed the rest of it a few pixels at a time by switching to the Rectangle in Tools . The result after more than an hour later was something that looked akin to pasting an egg in place of her face on the picture. It was grainy and looked ridiculous.
I don't want to lighten the whole picture because it ruins the true color of the dress, and not as important, the door and walls don't look as sharp and vivid either.
P.S. I would also like to know how to do the reverse; darken a specific area without the two-toned look.
I'm looking to take a certain part of an image (a small shape of it) and then apply darkening, progressively, from that small area. That is, the image gets darker and darker as it radiates out from that shape. Like a vignette, but progressively darkening from the point rather than a strait darkness.
Tried playing around with curves and didn't really do this effect.
This is happening in Lightroom 4 final and is possibly related to this issue: Re: Brightening shadows darkens highlightsBrightening shadows darkens highlights.
Start with a fresh imageSet Whites to a highish value, like 55-60 or better 100.Slowly move the Highlights or Shadows slider to the left
The image gets brighter even it is supposed to get darker. If you move Highlights to the positive side, the image gets darker.
In my workflow, I am constantly editing symbols. However, when I enter a symbol, the stage is "darkened". The result is that I cannot effectively gauge colors as I edit symbol elements. How can I disable this "darkening" and see the normal colors?
How do i darken and maybe thicken all lines in a line drawing?
I need to darken the grey lines in a two color (grey & green) line drawing since they are hard to see.
One way is a fill but there maybe some quick method that proportionately darkens just the grey pixels while preserving the relative grey gradient between grey pixels.
As a Realtor I need to be able to show both exterior views through windows as well as the interior space. I have a Sony cybershot camera but cannot find any settings to allow for this. Is there a way to correct photos on Photoshop?....or do I need a special camera/lens or what?
I recently installed CS5 on my laptop after first removing it from my previous machine.All licences were validated so no problems there.Now when using paint bucket in Photoshop, the colors that I select in the color picker are not the colors that result when I use the paint bucket.
If I create a new black canvas then the colors selected in color picker work with paint bucket.But if I attempt to recolor the background in an existing image that I import into Photoshop, I get the mismatch with colors when I use paint bucket. My method for selecting colors is the same in each case, I select 'set foreground color' and set the color using html values entry at the bottom of the panel.
Just wanted to print a new photo and realized that the colors in print preview do not match the colors in soft proofing. In both cases I selected the same icc profile and rendering method. The print colors matched the colors in print preview. I never had a problem so far. All new prints will be checked with soft proofing and adjusted when necessary. I never paid attention to the color rendition in print preview and all prints perfectly matched the colors from the soft proofing. I was surprised when my print came out of the printer and the colors weren't matching the soft proofing colors, but that of the print preview.
I don't understand why Photoshop renders the colors differently in the first place. See attached screenshot for the difference in the blue/cyan colors. I don't care if the print view colors will match the print, but I do care when soft proofing is not working.
The colors of pictures is much darker when working in photoshop than when I open it normally. And vice versa, I work on images inside photoshop, and I get the colors I want, but once I save it to bmp or jpg or anything else, all the colors are much lighter.
CDX5: Whatever color I select for fill or outline is now set as the default color for fills and outlines without expressly setting it as such. Until now when I left or right click a color with nothing selected it allowed me to set it as a default fill or outline color for graphics, artistic text, or paragraph text. It does not do that now.
Is this a "feature" that's been added that I somehow enabled? In any event, how do I turn it off?
We are working with a company that will be sending us DWG files. They do not use the same layer colors as us and I am trying to find a lisp that would allow me to set up a table with the layer names and the color I want them to be so that I can quickly change all the layers to our companys color standards.
Example:
Layer 1 = Color 1 Layer 2 = Color 15 Layer 3 = Color 10 Etc.
I don't know a lot about lisp but I figure if I could find a lisp that did this I could plug in my layer/color assignments and it would work.
Using CS6 on a MacBookPro Is there a way to find the closest matching Pantone spot colors to the cmyk colors I've created in Illustrator? I know it's easy in Photoshop using the color picker, but there must be a way to do this in Illustrator.
You can see in the attached screen cap that colors 1-9 appear as white on my screen and that colors 10-22 are not correct either. This is only occuring in one specific drawing. Is there a preference that I switched somewhere that would make this happen? I have double checked that everything is ByLayer or ByColor that I can think of. If I insert this color chart into other drawings it looks fine. using C3D 2012.
I would just restart my drawing, however it is the new company template file that I have invested many hours into and would really like to be able to keep working with it and not start over. Or is there a good way to import and overwrite all the Prospector settings into a blank drawing?
You can see in the attached screen cap that colors 1-9 appear as white on my screen and that colors 10-22 are not correct either. This is only occuring in one specific drawing. Is there a preference that I switched somewhere that would make this happen? I have double checked that everything is ByLayer or ByColor that I can think of. If I insert this color chart into other drawings it looks fine. using C3D 2012.
I would just restart my drawing, however it is the new company template file that I have invested many hours into and would really like to be able to keep working with it and not start over. Or is there a good way to import and overwrite all the Prospector settings into a blank drawing?
I am having a problem with Photoshop 8 not displaying the correct colors. I can see the correct colors when I go to Save for Web or when I paste saved files into another program like Illustrator.
Has anyone got any idea how to fix or analyze this?
